shizzzon

yes but i had mine installed, i dont feel like reguttin the inside in 30 degree weather. This procedure to engage the "glitch" only takes 8 seconds. After that, i drive away. I just wanted to break it down in very simple terms so no one is lost, hehe.

sounds like me before i upgraded, I was running a mobile sempron chip in my desktop because the vcore is lower by default... so better OC capability. I upped to a Q9300\4GB RAM 1840FSB and lovin it, it's night to day with this machine. You can get the whole build, ASUS P5Q PRO\Q9300(or Q6600 if you tryin to save money), 4GB Corsair Dominator(the ONLY QVL passed 4gb memory dual channel install for this board that also supports using same sticks for all 4 slots), for under $500. I am also using Thermaltake's V1 Cooler as it's suppose to be the best air cooled HSF packaged combo out there. It destroyed the $90 Zalman they comparedit to in some review i read before i purchased it. It's freakin large so if u were to use it, make sure the inside of your case has at LEAST 5.75" from mobo mounting plate to opposite side panel door.

Ok, i dont know if i'm the only one who has noticed this but if i leave SSA forum open for a while then come back, my browser, Firefox, has refreshed the page showing the newest articles and posts, basically, it's auto refreshing the page without me being there. It doesnt do it with other websites so i figure it has something to do with SSA's new forum that was made several weeks back. So, is this true?

Man, i've been doin so much research on this when i have time my head is about to explode so i am going to see if you guys share the same thoughts as what i'm seeing and reading. I had a 51" Hitachi rear projection tv. I am replacing it with a lcd or plasma of at least 50" but am wanting to stay below $1200 or around that since this is an unexpected purchase for myself. I have researched 720 vs 1080 and from what i see... unless i primarily watch blu ray movies or if i am sitting very close to the tv(i usually sit about 8-9ft away), 720 is the way to go since there would then be no visual difference and it's cheaper. The only thing they say is make sure it can accept 1080p signal and all the ones i see do. Question - is 1600p (xHD) going to be the new "thing" in the very near future? I know 1080p screens dont even accept that signal so i shouldnt worry bout future-proofing when it comes to this correct? I have researched lcd vs plasma and i just came back from a store with both displays next to each other playing the same thing so i can see the difference. What i see is while the lcd is brighter, the plasma is more geared toward perfect vivid colors for movie playback while the lcd is more geared toward making sure you can see what you are watching like a bright computer monitor. I noticed that the colors on the plasma were more firm, more to the point in actuality vs the lcd being slightly off color on a particular solid color due to it's excessive brightness. Plasmas are cheaper and may be due to life expectancy but the plasmas i'm looking at have the same 60,000hr rating as lcds do. So, is it safe to say that me choosing a good Samsung\Panasonic 720p Plasma is the way to go without disappointment? What do i use my big tv for? I use it primarily to watch normal cable broadcast through it or a movie played off the computer from time to time. I'll be running HDMI to HDMI from pc to tv when i do this soon. Other than that, i'll be upgrading my pc monitor to a 28" soon so i will NOT be using this tv for computer output unless it's for movie playback ONLY. I am aware of plasma burn in issues so upgrading my pc monitor will allow me to stop using my tv for such purposes. I dont watch blu ray... yet but even if i did, maybe 1-2x a week. I play the wii on my tv but that's only 480p so it's still acceptable. ( i am in the process of gutting my room out for a very large projector system for the wii so i wont have to use this new tv for that either) So am i in the clear for a 720p plasma?

Well, OCing the memory just a little makes a visual difference. As long as one can change the memory divider in the BIOS, it doesnt matter what the multiplier is set at. If one can not change the memory divider... well, hehe, then that's a big problem with OC'ing. You'd pretty much have to get 1066 just to be on the safe side. I had wanted to get Corsair's DDR2-1142 Sticks but they arent compatible with my board so i just got their Dominator 1066. I've ran it as high as 1119 without problem but i dont have the time to start tinkerin with it again. at least for a long while.

Just a guess, if your wife likes to go creative with her page by using 3rd party profiles and graphics, then that is most likely how you got infected. AVG wouldnt be suited for fixing that anyway. The majority of things you will be infected with is spyware and other forms of x-ware along with trojans. Virii will usually only be seen by downloading illegal files.

true with the multi-partition. However, a router does NOT make a person's pc safer, not even 1% safer when it comes to being infected with virii, trojan, x-ware, etc... Router is good to prevent from being hacked internally or externally. It is a firewall, not an active preventer of damaging software. The best security is rollback software like the Rollback RX, you need NO security whatsoever except for that software but if you plan on saving things to your hard drive, then you have to disable it. It is a VERY strong piece of software, too strong for most. If you don't use multi-partitions, you can always use Acronis TrueImage to do low priority partition backups of your master system so if u cant boot or your drive fails, as long as the hidden recovery partition is error free or on another hard drive, it will recover your entire master system in minutes.

if u do that, then you won't even have to remove your spare, heck, you probably won't even have to remove that top cover that they give you back there.

they are limited in space. I was able to get 3 amps, 2 d3100s, 1 d5100, 2 solenoids, 3 fuse blocks, 2 12s in a 4cuft box and BARELY have any room left without removing the backseat. The spare tire is definitely gone, hehe. I'm thinking i might have done better doin 4 10s but i would have need around 8kwrms and dont feel like spendin that kind of money right now.

Even if one's sub's sensitivity is higher than the other, you do now know at what frequency it peaked at to achieve that sensitivity... For example- If the Q had 86db and the ICON had 84db... If the Q peaked at 45hz to achieve 86db but the ICON did it's 84db at 31hz whereas the Q may had only done 82db at 31hz, then the ICON would be louder for low end music. I'm not takin sides on which sub is louder, just stating that sensitivity cannot be used to compare subs potential output that easily.

What i am referring to is when i was researching OCing and doin it myself, i came across a LOT of threads about comparing 2x2gb sticks vs 4x1gb sticks and which is better. The main point people were bringing up is you do not want to fill all 4 slots if you plan to do major OCing because the DRAM voltage will have a larger drop using all 4 slots then just 2 but i believe it's more than that though, cant remember because i wouldnt do it anyway. The bad thing about this is if u have to set the voltage too high to keep stable because of large voltage drop, too high a voltage on idle will crash the pc as well, hence the brick wall.

That computer you had constantly getting infected, sounds to me liek they didnt install the right software to prevent that from happening. Whereas there is no "End All" protection out there.... based on how one uses a computer, software can be installed to appear that there really is an "End All" solution! ESET's Internet Security along with Spybot(freeware) as a backup solution prevents anything nasty from happening that has this combo. Only under rare scenarios where people constantly go to porn and illegal download sites do they need a special software called Rollback RX which prevents virii and any form of x-ware from staying on the pc after a shutdown or restart. This is the same type of software used in colleges, libraries, etc... When you say a TON of security on the pc, you dont need multi software packages as they will all just conflict with each other. A full internet suite from ESET(it checks for updates every 30minutes!) A backup x-ware checker - Spybot A Full system Protector - Rollback RX

i cant say off hand but u can buy em like that. I havent checked but i think kicker and knukonceptz has some like that.

what doesnt play on mpc? If something doesnt play, then you dont have the right codec or filter. I'm beginning to learn how to transcode 720p and 1080p video now so this should be fun.

Check and see what your alternator is rated at. If it is around 90-100A, then you should be fine. You may have slight dimming but shouldnt be anything of concern. If you get real low light dimming, i would get a DMM and monitor the voltage going into the amp at it's power\ground terminal. If it is dropping below 12.0v, then you can ask how to fix that later,

when i state temps, i state them for when i am encoding video. If running Prime95, the highest temp core reaches 1C higher. So, if i can encode video at quad 3.45 @60C as it's max rise, then i Prime95, it will get it as high as 61C. Average temp on hottest core while encoding video is about 54C with a spike to 60C. During gameplay, it's in the high 40s to low 50s all the time. My idle temps on Cores 2,3 and 4 are all under 40C and Core 1 hovers around 42C. I also have C1E enabled so i can keep the heat and power draw to a minimum since i dont encode video 24\7. I leave the PC on 24\7 is the main reason why i have this setting turned on. Yea man, go ahead and try to break 3.5 or just hit 3.5 and keep it stable for a whole day! when i was at 3.5, i couldnt keep it stable during benchmarks and quick testing for more than 1-2 hrs at the most. I'm curious what ur settings would be if u can get it stable that high. I had thought about lowering the multiplier and raising the FSB but that would cause more stress to the board rather than the cpu and i had a LOT more stability problems doin that anyway. My current FSB is - 1840MHz My current DRAM is - 1104MHz certified OC for 1066, voltage is currently set at 2.1v

16GB? What are you doin over there? playin 15 games at once? lol That sounds like a nice system, except if u really do plan on doin some pretty major OC'ing, a lot of times using all 4 memory slots can cause problems when trying to OC the voltage to the memory but isn't like it's 100% impossible, that brick wall will just come sooner than if u only had 1 pair.

Well, Instead of me adding to the arguments goin on here, lets see what happens to and in America over the next 3 years. Yes, i know about the 2012 topic as i posted this story several months back. After talking with a few friends about it as it is tied together from the Mayan Prophecy and Scientific evidence, this has NOTHING to do with who is president! What is going to happen in 2011-to the end of 2-12 with a visual shift into 2013 is incapable of being controlled by one man or one country or one planet. So, america needs economic change, let's see if he knows how to do it like he says he does. It can't be worse than it is now. Only thing i'm curious is, how much will he get america out of debt in the first 4 yrs? that's what i'm wanting to see. how many trillions of dollars closer can be get to before we actually have a surplus again.

I knew who was gonna win after all 3 debates and the polls are still far from over.

one of you guys gotta check out quad cores, they run a lot hotter apparently than dual cores, hence more cores. I'm resting at 3.45 per at the moment. Funny thing is when i went to 3.5 i had problems. Maybe when i'm bored i'll tinker with it some more but last time i tried 3.5, my peak temp was 65C and that's ridiculous because at 3.45, it's only 60C right now. I havent read it in a while but the guy who created RealTemp got real in depth with it. I know what u are referring to, Intel hasn't released the TJMax spec for 45NM chips and if i remember right, they may not ever...

I am trying to help a member here on SSA with his home theater sub project. He is currently using a Fi 12" SSD in 1 cube sealed with polyfill running off of a 1400w Behringer amp. He is changing his setup to a Mach5 18" running off the same amp but ported tuned to around 18hz. His amp only has a 30hz or 50hz roll off choice. I have searched and searched for crossovers that have a subsonic filter on them that can be tuned to roll off around 15-20hz. I'm trying to find one for under $150, $80-$120 is more ideal. I have came across Harrison Labs 20hz FMOD adapters. This is currently the only thing i have found. Is it ok or worth using? IT's just for movies and the occasional song from what i understand.

yea, u'r right there. I've installed both systems before and i'e actually, just as you say, destroyed 1 AMD XP chip a few yrs ago because the heatsink was trying to be latched onto the socket and the next 2 thigns i hear are back to back crunch sounds... I took the heatsink off to find the corner of the core broke off! That was the first time it ever happened to me as i've installed several AMD chips before that and never had a problem. Of course the easiest would be my celeron d chip, it's pinless. Just drop it in and done.

hehe, i was waiting for you to come back with some energy. I'm just makin sure you got that software. The thing that will get the cores running real hot with a "normal operation" is playing games with it. If you encode video or any type of consistent video rendering, it will get real hot. Asus Probe monitors the cpu shell, you know the part that the thermal grease is applied to. I'm just makin sure that you got that software because i didnt want to know that you may be in danger and i didnt say anything to ya to prevent it.

Asus Probe does NOT monitor core temp, just Shell temp, Asus Probe II does the same thing. You need to download RealTemp for 45nm chips and CoreTemp if you have a 65nm chip. IT's common sense by now after spilling out all this info, there are 3 separate temp sensors on a dual core chip... if your monitoring prog only shows one for the "cpu"... it's only monitoring the shell which is WAY off from what u need. here is PROOF - Notice I am using Asus Probe II CPU - 23C But my CORE TEMPS are a LOT higher because that is how Intel rates their thermal limits on their chips. If you go by the shell temp, then you gotta use this ridiculous formula that incorporates what the room temp is by all this other info you must know. Again, get RealTemp as Asus Probe I and II is not properly designed to monitor multiple cores yet.

Hey Chrismcdonald12, you may need to read this immediately! I was doin some quick research and got ahold of a guy online who also has your chip OC'ed to 4.2ghz daily and 4.7ghz for quick benches. He was tellin me that there is NO way that your core temps are that low. I had figured that, you really need to get the appropriate program to monitor your chip because if you don't, you could be harming it and not even know it! For a dual core temp, you will have 3 separate temp sensors to monitor, for a quad, there are 5. If your processor is 45nm which u say it is, you will need to download RealTemp as this software, unlike Coretemp is the only software out there that can properly calculate TJMax. TJMax for 65nm and higher are all the same so virtually any software could tell you the temp but these new 45nm chips need RealTemp to monitor as the TJMax spec is 95, not 100. Everest, the newest version also doesn't repost temps correctly either, over and over again have people stressed RealTemp is the only one suggested for temp monitoring for 45nm chips. Now, for dual core- You will have 3 temps- Core 1 Core 2 CPU. The CPU temp is the temp of the outer shell of the chip itself... that's irrelevant. This guy was tellin me that unless your room temperature stays at -36F would that be possible. He has his watercooled and at 4.2ghz benched, cores rise in the 50s Celcius. I'd suggest going to Intel's site and reading the document about that chip and finding out what it's max thermal rating is per core. My Quad is at 71.3C See, my Quad idles in the high 30s on the core but the CPU idles around 22C. During benches, 1 of my cores breaks 60C while the other remain in the high 50s. My CPU temp maxes at 38C. WAY Different than the core. The CORe is what needs to be monitored. If you used to monitor chips back when single core was big, using the same software will NOT work for multi core chips, especially 45nm. So, get that program and rebench and see what your cores get up too. You will have 2 temp readings, not 1 when monitoring dual core core temps. Make sure it isn't relatively close to it's maximum thermal rating or you could be causing premature failure.