shizzzon

This isn't to sound sarcastic but if you have only wired a couple systems before yourself or especially your first one, it's always good to skim through the book to make sure there isn't no "new feature" that you gotta be aware of before turning it on for the first time. NEVER switch to slave while the amp has power. This is one of those instances.

just curious. I know most engine bays i've seen, the alt is pretty far away from the battery, total opposite side. But i was also curious even if it was just a foot away. Okie dokie then.

You ran the ground from the alt directly to the battery? I've never heard of anybody doin this... wonder if that's wise? You also said that you would rest at 11v but your voltage would drop to 10v then back to 11v when music was turned down or off... Just a tip for future reference- Take a fresh battery, 12.6v batt and hook it up through a cranking simulator at auto zone. It will pull it's rated CA so let's say it's 600A. When this happens, the batt will drop from 12.6 to 10.5v then will immediately recover to 12.2v... then 12.3, then 12.4, then 12.5 then 12.6v You see, battery can still be 12.6v and not be fully charged. Likewise, batteries "recover" once they are discharged and depending on how good they have been taken care of is dependent on how good they recover! Your battery sitting at 11.0 or 11.x is not good! the battery can sustain major premature failure if it sits in a state like this for months. The batt needs to be fully charged immediately and checked again a few hrs later to ensure that the float voltage does not drop below it's normal value.

122 in my scion tC Stock

are they near or in direct sunlight a lot? maybe that caused it.

I use to tune to 30-32hz a lot but was missin out in the high 30s to mid 40 range. It wasn't no where near as loud. (i am referencing ported boxes, not subs) So now, i tune 38-40hz for subs that have high XMech values because they can drop low enough for me and still be crazy loud in the 40hz range. Example - i am currently tuned to 38hz. My Subsonic filter is set to 24Hz. See what i mean? Audibly, the design drops to around 30-31hz before it's mostly mechanical noise but no music i listen to is loud below that so it's perfect for me. I listen to plenty of rap, rock, techno

I dont own a nightshade but i think you are good where you are at. True, 2 12s are better than 1 15, however, the gained SPL would be so light that i doubt you would notice a difference. As long as you are not clipping the amp too much, lightly, the sub should take it fine. It hasn't had problems yet has it? If it doesnt heat up and give off that glue smell all the time then you are fine.

$4,500? That isn't nothin. He's gonna need about $18,000 Don't forgot about you gonna need air-ride afterwards with all that weight unless this is just for a week until your suspension collapses.

XS Powermaster A D5100, D2400, D2700 or D3100 should be fine. I would also purchase a battery solenoid as well. If you do not, you may eventually prematurely kill your starting battery. A solenoid will keep the batteries separated while the car is off. While on, they are mixed together just so they can be charged and isolated again once car is off. You do not want different battery technologies, brands or usage hours mixed together without a solenoid.

wouldnt not as low be better voltage, hehe. It will prevent it from dipping as low for sure. By not dipping as low will prevent the voltage regulator from stressing as much as well. As long as you dont keep it at full blast the entire time you are driving, you should be fine as you must give the alt a few minutes every now and then to keep the batts charged.

take out the cap and add a minimum of 60aH in the rear. It won't hurt the alt to charge more, it will just take longer. If you start smelling something under the engine bay getting hot all the time, that's the alternator. If it does it frequently, it's trying to output more power than what it can do at a given rpm. That's bad for longevity.

Resurrecting an old build log as new again... If the last post is still curious, lol, the mechman alt is fantastic. 14.9v when charging, 13.8v when not in use. It does get hot so if you do not have the battery power to run a setup while sitting on idle, you could end up overheating the alt. I have 237ah plus factory battery up front to run 5,000w and i have never seen a dim light yet at idle. OK back to the purpose of this post- I am resurrecting this post because... a new design is coming... Goal - to break 150.0dB with 2 15s in an '07 Scion tC off of 4,400w of power tuned for DAILY use. Purpose of goal - Well, main reason is simple, motivation. I had the privilege of hearing snoopdan's ride and was impressed. Gave me an idea on a new enclosure design that i will be testing soon as the weather gets warmer as the design plans seem promising. Right now i do in the 146s for 2 12s and 4,400w of amplifier power but the box is not big enough so a new design is in place. It will be approximately 2-3 months before the project gets started\finished but this is what it consists of- 2 Audioque HD15s( the original made in USA versions ) 2 AQ2200Ds = 4,400w 1 D3100\2 D5100s 1 250A alternator Box design - I can't go into detail yet because i haven't tested it yet as there are two designs that i am debating on but i can tell you this- Because of the weight of the stereo system, i am moving the new design in to the rear cabin area so i am removing the back seats for the new design. The car will be sealed off where the main support beam runs across from side to side which isolates the back seats from the hatch area. From there, a very large box will be made for 2 15s ported around 40hz with SSF set in the mid to high 20s. The HD, HDC3 and SD line from AQ have very high mechanical excursion limits that allow them to be tuned high to be very loud to the ear while still dropping excessively low shaking everything in it's path. I am not thinking about it but if an offer comes, i may change amps for something more powerful but only if the timing is right, otherwise, i'm keeping my amps.

I guess i'll be the first to say this since after 21 posts, i still don't see this posted- You can't ask the question which will be louder by doing a direct sub swap and nothing else. that's an almost impossible question to answer. Secondly, yes the Fi Qs are their SQ sub line but CVXs aren't bad subs either. You keep wanting SQ and LouD... Everybody wants good SQ but loud for their money... who doesn't? You broke me when you said that you used bass boost. HOW ARE YOU GOING TO GET A FLAT RESPONSE WHEN USING BASS BOOST? You might as well pull the sealed box(es) out of your ride and build a nice ported box tuned to 32hz for example and have someone else set your amp up right because it isn't setup correctly right now and you will definitely love it over what you have now. Basically, you have a setup that is designed for your tastes to have good control and "suppose" to have a good smooth range in spl to your ear but you have bass boost engaged which is centering a boost at a certain range so it just throws the whole flat response out the window. So basically, you DO want a ported box. Go back over what i just said because this is what you have told us and i just explained what i means so re-evaluate your goal seriously because i think you want ported and just don't know it or are trying to tell yourself you don't wnat it because you have either never had ported or a bad experience or are afraid because you may think ported is just a devastating peaky, boomy box.... If you think the last option i said... that's bandpass... not ported, (bandpassed designs are not a good choice for music clarity.) The bandpass design i am thinking on doing in my sig is kinda complicated.... Not the same BP i am referring to if wondering.

i bought this sensor its awesome i hit 141 in my car at the dash...and 157 in the port hehe i was just curious what it would be but here comes to... how close its to the TL ..it should be better than AC ... :bigclap: We already compared that question? That was the whole point to the topic. The TL will read higher. The Hyperdynamics sensor is stiffer than the Tlab so to answer your question, the Tlab would probably read around 142.5-143 and the port would probably have read around 158.5-163db.

The Termlab is the official meter for most comps around the country but it costs close to 700 and most individuals sigh away from the price. Hyperdynamics meter through ebay costs less than 100 but retails for around 350. They claim their meter is stricter than the Termlab, slightly (0.1-2.0db lower than Termlab between Db ranges of 120-170). Db ranges 171-180 have been noted to post upwards of almost 9 Db lower than Termlab. This meter also goes up to 230Db accurate whereas the Termlab goes to 180 accurate. Hyperdynamics is used to test explosions, bombs, shotgun blast, etc... The reading methods are very different as well. Termlab- Just hookup to laptop and watch your score LIVE!! Hyperdynamics- hookup O-scope to meter to read out the active milliVolt reading. Once that is obtained, you input the mV reading into this small program that is ran on any windows based computer and it will tell you what you "hit." A little more complicated, definitely not sufficient for competition sanctions but for personal use and over 600 percent cheaper... Definitely worth it. The debate has been for over a year that no meter is as good or stricter than the Termlab and is cheaper... That cheaper! Until now... snoopdan was kind enough to travel out my way to do this test. Much thanks for snoopdan. Ok, what we did was we held both meters beside each other and played 42hz tone for about 10-15 seconds. The results @ 42Hz- Termlab - 143.0dB Hyperdynamics - 141.909214 or 141.9 When i had opened my door while turning it down the Termlab shot up to 144.7 hehe. Well, Apparently Hyperdynamics was right! The meter I use is more strict than the Termlab. So what does that mean? This means that if you had this meter and used it to see how high you would "hit", expect a higher score in the judging lanes. True it is a little more complicated to setup but once it's ready... It's a nice alternative. The loudest i've ever done in this car with my current setup is a 145.513... who knows maybe it was close to a 147 on the Tlab??

I am using the velleman off of partsexpress. I believe it's the hps-10

Leaving your identity, my opinion and the rest of curious minds pondering aside, the main reason why someone like me would post such a warning is to prevent the site in which is hosting such information that is now public to remain active before they are possibly contacted for freely hosting illegal information without a means to terminate such activity. It will eventually get posted, it is here, it has before, most forums do eventually. The more you spread "underground" information publicly, the worse it is for everybody.

6 Copyrights 6.1 All materials presented on this site are available for the distribution over the Internet in accordance with the license of the Russian Organization for multimedia and Digital Systems (ROMS) and intended for personal use only. Further distribution, resale or broadcasting is strictly prohibited. 6.2 The Site remunerates the fees for every downloaded File in accordance with the license agreement. 6.3 All trade marks, trade names, company names, slogans, logos, and any other copyright items, which can be seen on the Site pages in various contexts, are the property of their respective owners. You have no right to copy, distribute or use them without written permission from the owners. 6.4 The Client has no right to download any Files from the Site if this violates the law of his country. 6.5 The Site Administration can not control actions of each Client therefore the Client is responsible for any illegitimate use of the Site's materials or/and Services. Guess what... that link posted above is illegal to actively use if you are located in the United States or are bound by the laws set forth there. The licensing agreement for the link posted above which directs to ZML makes it legal in RUSSIA so if you are from there currently, then you are fine... otherwise this is teh same as posting links to illegal activity and can get people into a lot of trouble.

If money wasn't an issue? The only reason why I would say Yes is because that is "the meter" everyone knows. When you want to compare with the rest of the world, why not use what the rest of the world is using? However, for me, that's different. It may be fun to burp your setup every once in a while but i am in no way turned on by being a member of any sanctioned audio competition. It just doesn't interest me. Electronic modding\repair and computer work is what i like best and i stick to it. That's who i am. When i got this meter, based upon what i knew, it was going to be used to help me setup a design the best for my money. It did that. I had no intentions on comparing. Also, because it reads lower, it's interesting to note that you could use this meter to "force" yourself to reach a goal in competition so when you actually went, you would be a lot louder! It's safer to carry around though! With a Termlab, you have to have the meter AND a laptop (usually). You don't want to keep a laptop in your ride at all times. I do carry my meter with me just as i carry other test tools with me. This HD meter only requires an o-scope or a very good DMM capable of reading mV. Carrything those items around isn't that bad. Of course you may not know what you did until you get to a computer but i dont meter every other day either. I may meter a couple times a year, if that. And yea, i've been gone a while but i'm back... I'll be back again for a while because i'm tearin down and redoin a setup in my scion tc. the goal is to break 150.0 tuned for a musical daily driver... I have ideas

anybody play a lot wii with other people and can recommend some awesome multiplayer games? Plannin on gettin a projector soon and inviting people over so we can do some wii on the weekend, hehe. I have a list of the following that i've played myseld, i know other names but have never played yet so don't know how good other games are. Wii Sports Raving Rabbids Carnival Games

Projector 1- 720p native, 1080p capable input signal. 2000 Lumens 3000:1 contrast Price - 750 Projector 2- 1080p native 1100 Lumens 14000:1 contrast Price - 1350 Condition- Both screens can project a 96" image I want onto my white painted drywall, no screen! No other lighting can tamper with the viewing area. Viewing distance is 10 ft away. I DO watch 1080p video but only on a 720p native 51" rear projection TV. I have only watched 1080 natively on my 22" lcd. I love the quality of the 720 but am undecided on which to go with. On my white wall, is projector 1 strong enough to display quality imaging? Will 1080p be better looking than 720 on 96" image 10ft away? These are the things I'm curious about. I love the quality of the new 1080p lcds/plasmas and looking for something pretty darn close if not better with one of these choices, definitely not something worse than 720p rear projection.

Ever since i started doin research and doin it myself, it's very addictive and i'm very satisfied. I am running a Q9300 (Quad 2.5ghz) Intel off of an Asus board. Right now, i'm stable at Quad 3.45ghz with temps maxing out at only 61C and this is air cooling, no water cooling at all. Idle temps on 3 of 4 cores are below 40C. I'm being told this is an awesome spec'd benchmark especially this being the first time me doin it.... after weeks of research though. My idle times are actually the SAME as the stock speeds. I'm lookin for someone to compare benchmarks too because nobody i can find can compare to this pc. My memory write speed now is 9,600 MB\sec. Most people i've talked to think 6,000 MB\sec is pretty decent... My Memory Copy speed is almost at 9,800 MB\sec. My Memory speed is peakin at 8,800 MB\sec although i had to reduce it some the other day to OC my cpu more. I'll see if it helped later because i'm trying to get to quad 3.5ghz without going over 60C. That would be an extra 4ghz for free, lol. I have a LOT of info about this chip if anyone is interested in purchasing one, i can definitely help ya set it up.

Atomic APX 10 can handle up to 15,000w of power. Orion HCCA 10 can handle up to 4,000w of power. Cerwin Vega Stroker 10 can handle up to 4,000w of power. Treo Engineering CSX 10 can handle 1,200w of power minimum. Resonance Engineering MT 10 has an undetermined power handling rating. Also, don't forget the Critical Mass UL 10.... but this sub is in it's own category.

I know what you are wanting to know so hopefully it will come out right- There isn't one speaker that will be "god", there are many. What makes a speaker different from another, or better than another is how you perceive sound. Different materials used to make the cones, different ways tweeters are made will effect it's sound output. Not everybody likes one particular speaker. The specifics are what most brands tell you- what type of enclosure, t/s parameters, x-over settings... That info is so you can set it up properly to get the best sound from that part, but to make that part better than another has to do with the materials used. research different types of materials for speaker building so you can decide what you might like the best then go to your local store and listen to speakers that you know use certain types of materials to get a general idea of the sound difference.

I don't know if this is old news or not but i just stumbled across this so it might be helpful for others. I'm assuming this will work with all other car dvd players that are wired to where you must be in park and have the hand brake applied twice before video will appear. OK, this is what it can do- The purpose of the safety feature is to not show video while in drive.... however, a glitch in my Alpine allows to show video while i'm driving and only shuts it off when the brake is pressed so for road trips, , you need not a video bypass. What i did- While i was in a stopped position, you could even consider just starting the car a stopped position because you only need to do this once unless you shut the car off. While in a stopped position, have car in Park with the hand brake OFF. Stick in a movie. The movie's audio will play but no video. Raise hand brake. If still no video, without reapplying the physical brake(because u are still in park), release the hand brake and reapply it. Now you should have video! This is normal so far. Now, this is what i did next- I took the car out of park while the hand brake was still applied( make sure you are not on an incline when doing that). You should still have video. If you do... then that's it! You can now drive WITHOUT the hand brake applied AND allowed to be in Drive with full video. The only time the video will shut off is when the physical brake is applied and held down. If you are stopped for a while and want to see what is going on, while holding the physical break(since you are currently stopped), apply the hand brake then let go of the physical break completely. To move out of your current stopped position, just release the hand brake and drive. Since the video only shuts off now when the brake pedal is applied, it makes it a lot more convenient. This is intended for those who either paid to have the stereo installed or those who installed it the right way and don't feel like payin the $17-$30 for the bypass PLUS either takin your car apart again to install it or finding a "shady" installer to do it without proof. So, hope it works out for you as easily as it does for me. also, while there is no video, there is always audio playing so you are still "involved" with the movie for those few brief seconds where you might not have video when the brake pedal is applied. Now you see how effective this technique is for road trips.