shizzzon

i bought it messed up so i can learn how to repair them as it's going to be necessary for the type of work i do anyway so i might as well learn now. I'll check the screen now

if the remote gain is not hooked up then do not hook it up as there is still something else wrong

since it's an AQ amp, MAKE SURE THE REMOTE GAIN IS SET TO MAX AND THE GAIN ON THE AMP IS SET AS LOW AS POSSIBLE. After you have done this, slowly start to turn the gain up on the amp until it's set properly. The remote control is a gain control, not bass boost.

wow, where to start. Put another amp in there and see if its any different. If another amp is a lot better, then it's not the HU or wires. If its not any better, check the following- sub out on HU is set to maximum output. check voltage at amp terminals(this will also verify good ground as well) check your filter settings on your amp. Check to see if u got the rcas plugged into the correct output on the HU.

Download away...

I am uploading them right now. EVERYBODY WILL BE ABLE TO GET THEM VIA MY SIGNATURE IN ABOUT 5 MINUTES

I'm gonna start bracing my boxes with peanuts now.

let me know if you need any. I'll give you a link to em. Just tell the entire range and\or tones u want and i'll package em all up in 1 rar for ya.

yea, that's already been measured. 98lbs for birch 122lbs for mdf. I'm going birch. Here is the weight in my car for a 800lbs limit- Sound Deadening - 78lbs Batts - 158lbs Amps - 44lbs Subs - ~96lbs Box- 98lbs Wire and bracing - 30lbs Estimated weight - 502lbs That's really too much weight already but u see the problem

it's a matter of design talk rather than equipment talk. am i to expect a noticeable difference of 4 12s over 2 15s? If not, i'll just stick to the 15s..

the cost not to actually spend any money, lol. What i mean is i have 4 Audioque subs. 2 12s and 2 15s all in the original HD3 and new HDC3 line. The money i get from selling these would go towards new subs, that's it! I'm only expecting to spend a $200-400 on building the box so this project isn't that expensive. Weight is an issue. The subs i choose, 4 12s cannot weigh more than 24lbs a piece. That's another reason why i chose those 2. It's been narrowed down to those and to tell u the truth, I've never heard of clif designs but that sub looks pretty nice for the money.

if u already have that alt, then yes, a couple D3100s is fine.

Dr. Phil?

you wouldnt normally need to upgrade your starting battery. I'm runnin 5,000w of power and i use stock battery. I see that you didnt mention new alternator. because of this... i wouldnt expect your alternator to last for too long with that kind of current being pulled. You will need more batts than normal because of this. Probably 3 D3100s but the problem is the more batt you add, the longer it's gonna take to charge em all back up.

ok, i found that calc, hehe, it's on bcae1.com http://www.bcae1.com/images/swfs/speakerwi...orassistant.swf Anyways, it says that 8awg wire for 12ft long @3000w is the limit. Anything more through that wire and one would need 6awg wire. For my application, i have no risk of a fire and i would only theoretically gain 37w by using 4awg... so i guess i'm still stickin to 8awg... it was a good short story anyway, hehe

i cant remember exactly where i was at when i seen this a while back... i mean a few yrs ago, the website still exists i just cant remember the link. It was a power\voltage calculator. Basically, you put in how many watts you have available and the wire it will be sent through and the length. It will tell you the resistance build up based on AWG size and length and what the end result would be at the other end of the wire. When running a couple thousand watts of power through a wire, there was noticeable wattage drop even on 8awg wire. Ears definitely will not hear a difference, but a mixture of WTF and the urge to get every last drop.

hehe, you ain't gonna believe me when i say this... but i'm serious. When i redo my setup this summer with 2 15s in the back, the speaker wires are gonna be long, we are expecting around 12ft per coil. I'm gona be ordering some 4awg to 8awg reducers! Yes, that's the proper reaction, hehe I am going to be paralleling the subs at the sub, itself, then using 4awg to 4awg couplers to run 4awg SPEAKER WIRE to a 4awg to 8awg reducer si it will fit in my amp to prevent loss of transmission as much as possible. I was afraid i wouldnt be able to fit 4 reducers all next to each other on an amp since my amps have internal bridging on them so i'll do the paralleling at the sub so i'll have plenty of space apart for the reducers. So to the OP - Get the BIGGEST wire possible.. I'm using 4awg this summer

I just came across this company- Titanium Power They manufacturer amps that seem pretty intense but nobody sells them... Odd isn't it... Anyways, i'm trying to find out if i ever found a company that sells them... if they are any good... I ask because i like the TM8800.1D 8,800w @ 1ohm.

personally, if you have a wall that is over 2ft and there is currently no bracing there and you are gonna be running some big power in there, i would use 5\8" - 3\4" all thread. If the box can be built out of the car and then installed and needs all-thread, i'd run all the runs next to each other then weld the sucker at all intersections. Lock-tite the threads through the wood, use nylon washers, etc everything you can to make that enclosure as hard as concrete. It's not as necessary with less pressure.

how low do you want me to drop the height? At the baffle i'm 0.5" away from hitting headliner but further back down the box i'm 1.5" away from hitting headliner. I will say that by decreasing internal volume like this means that i will need to extend the depth meaning the box will be closer than 8" from the wall. Since you gave some new idea to the design, how close to this wall before you think i would start choking?

This is a goal to reach 150db tuned for a daily driver. I've been doin some measurements and have came up with a box design that has me smiling and this will be the last box i will build for the car... unless i downgrade later. This is my last attempt to try and reach 150db with a daily tuned setup and i'm crossin my fingers because this is only with 2 15s and 4,400w of power. Here is the wild design- Remove back seats, where back seat was, install a wall there sealed off from the hatch area. Now, i have 33" of depth from this wall to the back of the front seats. The box design would consist of 2 15s ported facing toward the wall. There is an 8" gap from the front baffle to the wall. Both subs and port face the Sealed Wall. This 8" gap acts as a loading area. The output would then be dispersed around both sides of the box through tunnels consisting of 5.5" wide per side and approximately 9" tall at the beginning and then dispersing everywhere by the time it's halfway down both sides of the box. The top of the box does NOT touch headliner... it's close, probably 0.5" in some areas and 1.5" away in other areas. I'm debating whether i should allow the air to only flow around the sides of the box or the itty bitty ass opening at the top of the box. the box is 33" wide. It gets 44" wide toward the bottom to increase internal volume properly. Because it gets wider, this is why the air flow around the box isn't simple as you can see. I should have the best of both worlds correct? A smaller cabin to pressurize and a loading area on top of that. Box would be 9.0cuft tuned to 40hz using 2 Original AQ HD315s with 154sqin of port and 4,400w of power.

I know exactly what you are saying but facing forward is a bad idea as well because it eliminates the loading area. Now, if a wall is built and sealed, then yes, it helps a lot but you must rely on the airspace left to pressurize the volume. My understanding is i wont have a lot of volume anyway after the wall is sealed off and the box is installed as it is. As a matter of fact, i would have almost the same amount of volume left even facing backwards sealed off. the only volume extra i have is the volume where the air flows out of so it's basically better theory-wise. Loading area + low pressure volume

16awg generic wire- 10x at 8" away- 20x at 2.5" away- 50x at 1.25" away- 205x at 1.25" away- NOTE - i measured 3\4" wide for just 1 single Wire thread at 205x!

You guys are gonna love this! I got this new microscope so i can do very fine and precise electronic repair. 3-4x magnifiers are pathetic for the work i'm talking about. I'm about to upload some pics for you guys so u can see what i'm talkin about.. I'll post specs about the distance and magnification strength by each pic showing how awesome of a scope this baby is... Oh, and you can get your own with a full flex stand as well... just search on ebay for 200x usb microscope. The strength is actually 211x but anyways, i'm gonna start takin some pics of it's strength- TEST SUBJECT - Speaker Wire

ur right, i switched to google maps from within google earth pro... that's so stupid.