shizzzon

Sweet man! When u think u gonna have yours done and ready to listen to? I'm aimin around june or july to be done as long as I get my other gear sold. The box I'm using is gonna be sub and port forward. Any excess volume around the front baffle will be sealed off to try and get as little volume to pressurize as possible. Port flowing in between 2 front seats, 26.25" high x 5" wide according to ur recommendation. I'll be running 2 2200w amps on mine

well i already do a 146.8 @34hz with just 2 12s and 4,400w of power, i'm hoping i can break a 150 at a low frequency with these babies if my volume is large enough.

hmm, getting interesting. I'm really interested in the 18s. ICONs do not come in 18s so this is all the possible boxes i have chosen for them- 13.2 cubes NET tuned to 35hz Port area= 158sqin 13.0 cubes NET tuned to 34hz Port area= 158sqin 12.8 cubes NET tuned to 33hz Port area= 158sqin 13.0 cubes NET tuned to 32hz Port area= 144sqin 13.0 cubes NET tuned to 31hz Port area= 138sqin 13.0 cubes NET tuned to 30hz Port area= 131sqin Are any of these box sizes optimal or recommended for 2 Xcon 18s?

if you want to measure the temperature, you need to take the amp apart. That would be like measuring the outside of a pc case and sayin it's only readin 5 degrees above room temp and thinkin you are ok. Same way with the sub. You would need to run a temp sensor up through the vent pole somehow and into the "hottest area" of the design. Preferably, anywhere that will fail first due to heat.

unless the majority of your music peaks past 55hz or so... the 10s.

I'm redoin my setup this year and want to see if any of you have any thoughts about my new setup just in case i may have missed a possible setup design.. So, i will hand the specs over to you guys and tell me what you would do with the following- 4,400w of power = 2,200w @1ohm per amp Possible Internal volume = 15.5 Cubes! Displace 1.5-2.00 cubes for port = 13.5-14.0 cubes plus sub displacement. Baffle room - room that is capable of fitting a select number of subwoofers- 16 8s 8 10s 8 12s 4 15s 2 18s (note this is baffle room, you must account for internal required volume for proper suggestion) Price limit - $900 I pretty much already have my mind made up, just wondering if there is anything else out there i may have overlooked. I've narrowed it down to- 2 AQ HD315s or 2 SSA XCON 18s I really like the new XCON look... I can sell both my 15s and both my 12s and get the 2 xcon18s... Basically what i'm tryin to do is surpass 150 on a tone but still capable of doin music in the high 40s to low 50s. I'm hesitant to think my 2 15s can do that in a wall... i know the 18s have more potential... so what would u do or choose?

i dont know how to say it so i'll just say it. That's exactly what i need, however, i would need all of my subs sold before i purchase anything. This project isn't suppose to start for another 45 days from now... so unless someone randomly buys all my gear... sorry man, bad timing unless there's a slight slim chance that nobody buys em until then, hehe, then i'll be all over it.

unless you have personal experience with DD\AQ, that's not a wise recommendation. Tuning below 35hz will result in the mid 40hz range and up to roll off severily losing output. Tuning to 38-40hz will give you awesome all around sound with a consistent "loud" factor down to 32hz and just under 30hz audibly. Tuning to 35hz will give devastating lows down to the mid 20s but will start to lack high end around the 50hz range.

keep it at 38hz if you want loud with good lows. Tune to 35hz if u want devastating lows and "ok" loud in the 40hz range.

I have a question and some other things on my mind about what you say... If you are so obsessed about ultra low loud bass but are afraid of it's output potential due to your power limit you will use, then for one.. Why go sealed? Ported designs are a LOT more efficient than sealed and can destroy a sealed box in low end efficiency as well if you listen to music that doesn't peak below 25hz all the time. So what music do you listen to? If rap or modern rock, it's very rare for these 2 genres to peak below 30hz so i must insist on why not going ported if this is your genre. Also, it's my personal opinion that since Kicker wants their customers to tune their solobarics in the high 30s, 40s or even 50Hz range... Why tune so high? Fi subs may be a better choice for your typical low bass range as they are intended for that purpose.

did it come with a spec sheet saying what it did at all rpms? The actual hot reading? If not, when you get it installed and know it's working, get a BIG load ready for it and clamp ammeter around it's charging cable and let us know what it outputs at 3,000rpm Engine speed. If you have another person there, get him to read the voltage output while doing so. I'm curious how it compared to my alternator.

please do not get earthquake amps. I used to hear way too many horror stories about the 5000w amp an higher... plus they are severily overrated. I'll break it down to ya- Sundown's amps are VERY nice quality. If you have the cash for one, get it as it will last you a very very long time and excellent build quality. You can also go with Audioque amps (www.audioque.com) They have a AQ1200d which does 1470w@1ohm and AQ2200d which does 2200w@1ohm. These amps are built to last as well. They are a LOT cheaper, i would the explanation over to those who are tech savvy in amps explain that to you. I own both companies amps and both are great. Just remember... no Earthquake... You will have an earthquake with there high powered ones then when they go up smoke.. you'll have an aftershock...

well, must not be the subs and since you say you want SPL, i'm betting you are clipping the hell out of the amp. Time to have someone set your amp up right because it's outputting a dirty signal. Also, make sure your subsonic filter is set right or damage will occur as well if using ported boxes. Also, if you got your LPF set over 100hz, you can easily overheat a sub while clipping. Less movement, more clipping, not enough air circulation... Stinky Stink smelly smell...

Turn the car off and check voltage level of batts in the rear. For it to drop so much at idle, it should also drop that low with the vehicle off playing the same song, but with Group 31s, i think that might be a little big of a drop . They may not be completely charged, loose connection as stated above, etc. So, check float while car is off, check voltage at 2.5 - 3k rpm and see what the difference is.

ok, i got the information. Apparently, what i was told was.... W to the R.O.N.G It's stated that a battery can accept any current without failure, it just isn't wise to do it for longevity purposes but i wasn't referencing that aspect of it as a slower trickle charge is required for maximum potential. The REAL worry is this- The alternator should NOT be used as a battery charger. Alternators were not designed to output it's rated output at whatever RPM constantly. For music, it's fine because music is dynamic. Bass tracks are pretty much the same. Now, if you plan on playing test tones for an hour straight... well, that's different. It, again, all comes down to heat generation and can kill an alt if too much exists. Point being, if you have dead or near dead batts or a large enough battery bank that is discharged enough to force the alt to charge for a long time... like a situation where a battery charger would come in handy, this is when not to use the alt to charge! Risk of overheating alternator.

all the talk about voltage spiking... i was never referencing it, i was precisely told over current, never voltage. I'll find out today.

i dont want to drown.... Of course, i'm not the engineer telling you this first hand, but it makes sense. I'll contact Powermaster and ask them if i can send 200A or more to a single battery and see what they say and bring up what you said as i can't argue with it.

Tirefryr, you do make a point about electronics still getting what they need. It gave me an idea. If your alt is too powerful for charging just one battery, create a load that will divert some of the current from the alt to other devices to lower the charging current to the battery.

1- Understood. Simple. 2-3 - The electronics will receive what they need and only what they need. The response to outputting all to one battery is true and i'll give you an example. Lets say you have your batts isolated from one another and you drained your rear batt down to 50% but your starter battery is fully charged. you have a 200A+ alt. You start the car and hit constant engine rpms that make the alt put out the highest possible load it can do... All the remaining power, because i assume approx 60A give or take is being used by the car, will be sent to that batt to charge because... it's low. If it receives too much current at once, it will damage it no questions asked. I've had 2 alt companies tell me this. Excessive current sent to a battery will damage it. Another scenario- Your starter battery dies. You get a jump from somebody but you have a 200A+ H.O. alt. NEVER rev your car up once it's started. Doing so, again, will send excessive current to that battery and can damage it. If all batts are wired in parallel, then yes, sometimes all batts may not be 100% charged but that's not what i'm trying to say. It involves them being isolated as well which makes this scenario happen. I didn't mention isolation before but it's possible. 3- not overcharging, but receiving too much current at once. This is a difference.

What size alternator or battery should i get? For battery sake- you should match the aH rating to half that of your amplifier's recommended fuse rating. For example - if you have 640A worth of fusing for amps, you will need approximately 320aH worth of batteries. Now, you can get away with this rule of thumb by having a large H.O. alternator. Alternator rule of thumb works in about the same manor, you just gotta take the car into consideration as well. If you had 640A worth of fusing, for example, half that is 320. They make 300A alts but some are impractical for car use due to size and most vehicles do not have the room for DUAL alternators. If alt size was always custom, you would want to reserve about 60A for the car and the rest for the stereo. So, 60+320 = 380A alternator unrealistically. Now, if you have an alt that can supply power to the car AND the entire stereo system like this, I have some good news for you. The rule of thumb for batts in the back decreases. You still need batts in the back but not as strong, you need something just to keep the voltage up in the rear. In my opinion, you would only need 25% of the fuse rating of all your amps for batts IF AND ONLY IF you have an alt strong enough to run everything on it's own... so in this example, it would be a 380A alt and 160aH worth of BATTS, not batt, but BATTS. Remember, when using a H.O. alt, you must use multiple batts to prevent over excessive current from being sent to one battery. 3 60aH batts, 2 80aH, 4 40aH and so on... Now, if you do not have enough alt which realistically you wouldnt in that scenario since there is no such thing as a380A alt, you need to follow the rule of thumb for the batts. So, for 640A of fuse rating, you would need 320aH worth of batts. Now, this is where things get reversed... If you are using the stock alt, you can use large batts or multiple smaller batts. Multiple smaller batts wired in parallel exhibit lower resistance allowing slightly faster charging. However less larger batts will allow the alt to send higher current loads to these types of batts allowing faster charging so you see when it comes to stock alt, the preventive rules are not as strict. Now, if you have a H.O. alt but it's not large enough so u have to go with 50% worth of aH for batts, tend to stick with smaller batts if possible, or at least 3 batts total in the system PER alternator (if using multi alt setup) to prevent over excessive current charging to a single battery accidentally. In your situation- 1,300w = ~120A fuse rating if really is a truly rated amp. You need at least 60A + 60A worth of alternator... You PASSED with 130A. Now, you only need 25% of 120 in the rear(never count the starting battery into the rule of thumb equation). 25% of 120 is 40A. You have only a 20aH battery in the rear. I would suggest either replacing or adding enough battery capacitance to equal at least 40aH in the rear alone. with your electrical system, you say lights dim, this should only be happening because the regulator cannot keep up with the rapid current changes that car audio pulls. A battery can so it will pull from it first. 20aH batt is so small that it is probably pulling that baby down so low it's causing dimming or a quick low voltage scenario. I am willing to bet that if you went out there and played a constant test tone real loud that your lights would only dim at the beginning of the tone then return to it's brightness orat least a lot brighter then when they first dimmed until the tone was over then it may just slightly get brighter again. Of course this is rule of thumb. there may be some instances where u may still need slightly more batt capacitance and\or alternator but this rule of thumb is based on music output and how it varies. If you are goin down the road playin test tones and bass tracks non-stop, then the requirements will go UP.

u live anywhere near Kentucky or better yet, just post where u live and see if someone here can check it out

I've been reading that if i want loud for music, i need to go with as much cone area and power as i can. My limited power available is only 4,400w. To keep costs down, i've been looking at some subs at sonicelectronix and i see 2 that seem pretty interesting to me. They are all 12s. Clif Designs CDNUC12 Clif Designs Absolute VI 2000.4 Absolute That Absolute is the D6 version because they have no current info on the D4. I was also lookin at AQs SD2.5s but these subs are cheaper. The reason why i posted this thread is because i'm being told that running 4 12s for daily driving, because of more cone area and more heat dissipation, is gonna be a better, louder choice that running my 2 AQ HD315s. I have never done multi sub setup so i have no experience in the difference.

found problem close enough. There is still an image on the screen when it goes out. It's gonna be hard to "guess" whether it's the lamp or inverter because it only works for about 2 seconds now. So, i am inclined to lean toward inverter failure.

Are there any other electronic repair or computer techs out there that repair pc electronics? I have a 19" proview 900P in front of me that goes blank every 3 seconds once turned on and stays blank for several minutes, then comes back on by itself for 3 seconds and cycle continues. I took it apart and all solder joints like fine and all caps look fine... Only other thing i could think of is the lamp.... but i dont know how to get to it. It shouldnt be the lamp anyways since most are rated for like 7 yrs and this was made in 2005. I can take pics of the boards if anyone needs to see them.

From what i've gathered just from hearing others running nightshades, try the following- Sub up, port back, approx 3-6" away from hatch door and make the box 3 cubes net instead of 4.