shizzzon

I could come on here and claim 164.3 with a pair of 12s... If that's all i said, nobody would believe me either so if u wanna play foul play, I will like to add that a local friend of mine broke a 150 with a single Mach5 12" spl with a pair of sundown 3000ds strapped. His vehicle is loud as hell when he burps it that high.

what happened to the part where u hear something.... rattlling... a bunch of WOWs.... nothing... I dont believe it was conducted truthfully.

So, does your box go from wheel well to wheel well or is it the whole width of the trunk?

Go out there and re-measure. Give me the maximum height width and depth. If width changes with height, etc.... let me know everything as detailed as possible. I've had people tell me they only have so much space when they really have more. Let me know what u come up with... Also, what year make and model car is it

Hey Floridians, hehe. I'm bout to take a trip to Key West, Miami, Ft Myers and all other cities that i have to pass through. I wont be in my tC due to overweight luggage but if there's anyone out there in the Florida area that wants to give me a shout with their ride, let me know, i wouldnt mind stoppin by and sayin what's up. I'll be leavin Saturday at 12:30am and will arrive in Key west around 9pm-ish first. I will then leave key west and migrate mainly to Miami Beach goin in and out of the city throughout all next week.

are you going to widen the predrilled holes in that frame that separates the hatch from the cabin area? There are 3 predrilled holes on that frame but are only just over 1" in diameter. If you were to widen those to fit the diameter of your port, if possible, that'd be nice but then again, i cant remember fif the frame is tall enough to accommodate a 3" port or not... Also, if you are looking at the front of your car from the rear, on the right hand side after you take ALL panels out, there is a plastic filter inside of a vent behind the right fender well that may cause audible noise in the car at low volumes. Try to secure it inside of it's cage that it's in if you can hear it while playing music as that shuttering, flapping sound you may hear is what is causing it.

there other terminals in the link i showed would be the ones i'd suggest. They are only $12 and are nothing out of the ordinary.

i own Konfused so i can tell you. Konfused terminals use a furrow to wrap the wire around then screw it back into the terminal... The problem i had is when you wrap wire around the furrow then go to tighten it back into the terminal.. it's ridiculous. I actually stripped an entire battery terminal just from trying to hand tighten it back in, that's why. Good thing i ordered extra terminals though. I tossed it to the side and just got another one and it worked finally. You shouldnt have any problems with the terminal actually fitting on the battery post. I know it doesnt go all the way down on the post but once it's on there.. it's tight just like any other terminal is.

Knukonceptz

wow, i must be retarded. I just realized that u r from the 502. Did u ever come out to the meet last time? I never remember seein a 15" owner. All i remember were 12s and mostly 18s out there.

here is some info for ya. Snoopdan has 2 18" RE SXs powered by 5,000w tuned @ 32hz. He has broke a 152 on music and a 151 on country from what i've heard. It's unbearable to be in there as i have and couldnt stand it at that level. He also has over 900aH worth of batt so he can go deaf, lol This should give u a good basis as to where u are when u get it metered.

I didn't want to say yet but I guess u guys found the reason why I'm sellin my current setup

if u have a high quality alternator, you do not need a charger unless they dropped their float too low at some point in time. I know there was a law suit against Kinetik a long time ago about them lying about their 16v batts but i have never heard anything else about it... I dont even know if the court date has even started yet. I also know that more people are happy with Powermasters than Kinetik. I was honestly about to purchase Kinetik before i got my XSs just because Kinetik was cheaper. It's been a long time ago, i cant remember why but either something or a lot of things made me go with XS... Simple research would be just research different AGM companies and see what u like.

when you are in the process of selling your entire setup, even though it's too loud for anyone to enjoy and no one wants to ride with you, to replace it with triple the cone area, double the power and walled off just because you want the best for your money...

man, i know what u mean but it wont stop raining here! If it's not raining by the time i get off work, it's too cold to be out there. Friday looks like a weiner, lol. Nice and hot with no rain, i'll do it then as long as i remind myself.

if you went with Powermaster, i would suggest- 2 D2400s. 87aH per battery. I'm assuming you do not listen to music fill tilt for 30 min straight right? If it's intermittent listening levels, then these 2 batts should be fine. I think they suggest a D3100 per amp. you can definitely get those if u got the money.

ok, thanks. It all makes sense now, hehe. These are some very interesting subwoofers.

here is what i got- Explain to me what this means if i choose to go with 1 of these 2 designs- 13.0 cubes NET tuned to 36hz - 13.0 cubes NET tuned to 30hz -

I just had a fun time fixing my charging system today so i thought i spill some info out there for ya. When you look at an alternator, you must understand it's purpose and how it will safely work. An alternator basically keeps your battery(ies) charged. In car audio, we usually tend to buy a H.O. alt because it will help run the system and\or keep the battery(ies) charged but it's not that easy! There are things you must know or damage can occur to your alt or batt(s)! 1 - If purchasing a H.O. alt, do NOT purchase only based upon what size you need to run your car audio install! BIG NO NO! Why? Alternator's charge batteries, not just run stereo equipment! If you have a lot of aH worth of batteries in a vehicle, and they drop to 12.0v or less, you run the risk of overheating your alternator to charge them back up. How? The alt will be at maximum output all the time until the batts are charged which is bad for prolonged periods. Solution- If you only have 1 starting battery and\or one other battery in the rear... do NOT buy yourself a 200+ alternator as it's not a good idea! The reason is if at a certain time one of the batts is fully charged whereas the other one isn't and is considerably low, ALL the alternator current WILL be sent to that one battery. NO BATTERY CAN ACCEPT 200A+ AT THE TERMINALS! It will immediately become damaged and could boil the battery, swell the battery, overheat the terminals, etc... If you need a 200A+ alternator, you must have enough batts in the vehicle to prevent excessive current to be sent to one battery in any given situation! 1 starting battery and at least 2 auxiliary batteries in the rear is recommended to prevent excessive current from damaging a single battery. This way the charging current is divided evenly. If you are not going to use that many batts, then downgrade your alt output capability to prevent this scenario from happening. 2- Adding more and more batteries to your electrical system can be good or EXTREMELY bad if no maintenance or safety devices are installed! Why? If you are adding batteries to a stock alternator, this isn't good as it will now take the stock alt LONGER to ensure that all batteries in the system ar charged 100%. This will open the alt up full blast constantly for a LONG time, especially if you have more than 1 auxiliary battery in the vehicle to charge. This "CAN" inadvertently overheat the alt if proper cooling is not available to prevent the alt from failing. IF you have a H.O. alt and have, for example, 50 batteries, hehe, you can still be safe as long as the alt can keep these batts charged all the time. The problem isn't one or the other, but BOTH! Too many batts undercharged will KILL any alternator, stock or H.O., due to overheating if required to run for extended periods of time. Too much alternator and not enough batteries that need charging will provide too much current at the terminals and immediately lower it's life or cause damage at the spot with swelling, boiling, etc... So, just because you have a H.O. alt doesnt mean your safe, I'm not kidding either! Proper maintenance and proper safety equipment should be used and installed at all times. I use a SMART fuse block which immediately shuts amplifiers down if they experience voltage below 11.5v, 12.0v or 12.5v. I keep mine set to 12.5v for utmost safety. You can also use a remote voltage meter to monitor the realtime voltage. If you choose to do so, do NOT buy a cheap one. Make sure it can be calibrated to properly match your DMM for visual accuracy. IF you have a problem with your alternator and it dies for instance, you will need to charge ALL batts with a charger suited specifically for your batteries. If your starter battery is different then the auxiliary batteries and you only have a charger for the rear... and you charged them up but not the starter battery.. and it's low... and you have a H.O. alt, and you turn the car on and drive it... you will KILL or DAMAGE your starting battery immediately due to overexcessive current. In this situation, it would be best to run at idle or at 700-750rpm for several minutes if batt is really low and that's it! Any higher on 200A+ will usually cause excessive current being sent directly to it. 3- If your alternator no longer comes on all of a sudden, that does not mean it died so don't go crazy because so and so brand said they were the best. So what do i do? In a lot of newer cars today such as Toyota, has a specific fuse in the fuse box to protect against a signal sent from the computer to the alternator to tell the alt to "come on" by spinning the rotor. In stock alts, the signal may only be about 4A but in H.O. alts, they are closer to 10-15A! My fuse for this is rated 7.5A. So... in my car, the fuse is called ALT-8 7.5A. So, if your alt ever quits workin, check this as it's common for this to happen. Now, i've had mine on there for almost a year on the 7.5A fuse and it just popped sending 12A of current through it. Now, i'm not saying to increase the fuse rating because of the facts, BUT, i would suggest increasing the fuse rating ONLY if you are popping this fuse more and more consistently. So, now since you see how an alt works and wont work if used improperly, you can now gauge on what makes an alt good or not. It's mostly boiled down to heat just like anything else, heat is bad. Cheaply priced alts usually have terrible cooling solutions and are not wise to be used for prolonged periods when Wide Open at any given rpm. Read this again and again because you may not have heard this before and i dont want you losing close to or over $1,000 on your new electrical system and getting pissed for the wrong reasons.

yes, i forgot about those, add those to ur choices too

thats gonna be a fantastic amp but 850x4 = $3400. Or you could get only 2 and have 7-7.5kw for $1700. Other choices- 4 AQ 2200ds 2200w@1ohm = $1556 4 AQ 3500ds 3500w@1ohm = $2796 1 Hifonics Maxximus 5000w x 2 @1ohm or 10,000w @1ohm = $1995 These are the cheapest solutions that i know of that can output it's power.

need a price range man. I could start rolling off best bang for buck or the unholy infinite pricing for amps, hehe

Could you explain to me what exactly the Transfer function magnitude tells us? normally, the designs i have done for myself, the graph is always peaking well above 0db right after tuning. The current build i have- 2 AQ HDC3 12s in a 3.8cuft box @38hz- graph goes to +1db peak at 39hz but suddenly rolls off to -3 at 59hz. graph shows -3 below tuning at 34.5hz. The overall listening experience between 30-60hz sounds fantastic. Anything higher than 60hz is pretty weak. Anything below 30hz is almost inaudible. So, with that given, what does Transfer function magnitude tell me and everyone else?

hehe, i already reported it to an admin

Hmm, that may not be good for me. If it takes 7 cubes per 15 just to get flat, then it definitely sounds like the 18s need way more because I don't want my ported box peakin 10hz+ above tuning because my volume is too low.