shizzzon

you dont need to do the Big 3 unless you get a larger alternator. All you need to do is upgrade your power line to 1/0 and add additional 1/0 grounds off of your starting battery. If you have a few extra feet of 1/0 left, you can run it from the alt to your battery's positive terminal but not required at this point in time. A DMM is a digital multimeter.

a 1200w amp shouldnt weigh your electrical down to a "very weak" situation. Upgrade your power line to 1/0 from front batt to your amp. Use a 4awg reducer or a distro block to run 4awg back into your amp. Do the same thing for ground as well on that amp. At your starting battery, run 1-2 runs of 1/0 ground off of it to your chassis. Whiel the car is off, measure voltage at battery. If it's reading 12.4 or lower, take it to Autozone and have them run a CA test on it. It simulates several hundred amps being pulled out of it. If the test fails, your batt is partially damaged.

he says 6 cubes at 37hz. I think he should be at 8 cubes and 32hz-34hz personally but i've never used IA subs before. Since he's supposedly got his amp set correctly now... i'm wondering if his box has SO much rise in it that it's just ridiculously inaudible. I've never heard of something that bad but there's gotta be a time for everything i suppose. The only way to tell for sure it to choose multiple test tones and get a DMM and ammeter and measure the voltage and amps so you can determine the rise for each tone.

Some more vids of snoopdans monster-

got several people out here. i just posted a 148.0 with my current setup at 42hz i'll have pics n vids later on as i'm still competing.

Here is the back of snoopdan's ride- Air ride, several batts and amp all tucked away back there. Now, this was the install that was very close to me all the way in a lower class- Here is another setup i was able to snap- He had 4 15s and 3-4 batts. I'm not sure on power but he did have 2 of those amps shown in the pic. I think they are MTX amps since everything else was MTX. He hit a 150.3 with that setup. Now onto the vidz- I will post the rest after i edit some of them do some boring parts.

when i got all my XS batts, they were all at their max float. Hook them up and drive around for a few minutes in 2nd or 3rd gear if u want to try to keep your car at 2k-3k rpm and that will ensure you that they are ready. If you have an AGM battery charger, this will do it a lot better, LOT better than an alternator will but simply, they should be charged. I would attempt a short charging session before jammin on them though.

Can someone please explain to me where, how and what exactly does this mean- Take for instance the XS D5100 60aH battery. SSA is the ONLY distributor, not even Powermaster has this on their site, that displays wattage under the specs of the battery. The D5100 has listed 2000w / 3000w I have "assumed" this may mean recommended amplifier power? But even if that's true, what's up with the 2000w/ 3000w? Why are there 2 wattage references for each battery?

They "can" be charged over 14.9v but for very short durations. The batts should never be charged for several minutes at that high of a voltage or premature failure will begin. Also, if it's to prolonged during one setting, you may smell rotten eggs or the batt start to swell.

i'm in louisville, about 18 minutes from the Indiana bridge to New Albany, Paoli, etc...

I beat a 4 12" sub setup and a 3 15" sub setup today at a local comp with only 2 12s so it's possible, gotta know your install and how to do it.

If your 2 15s are causing cancellation... wire one out of phase so it doesnt anymore. I dont know what you have done to the box but something isnt right. You should be near ear piercing loud with what you have with the right box. If i had to pick a number, i would say you should be easily capable of reaching a 145-146. If you doin less than that, something's wrong which could be a multitude of things.

yea very little, more vids than anything of mostly snoopdan though. Left the cable in the car, i'll get it back out tomorrow.

ok, if u got the 4 ohm side to read down in the 2s then there isn't anything wrong then... or at least that WAY wrong, hehe. Your DCR values are still off though. A dual 1 ohm sub should read 0.6-0.8 per coil. A dual 2 ohm sub should read 1.2-1.8(yea 1.8 is high but i've seen it before) per coil. A dual 4 ohm sub should read 2.8-3.6 per coil. I don't know what type of sub you have so go by this. You do have an RE though.. maybe it is a dual 4 ohm and they just got the resistance super freakin low on the XXX.

yea ur right, forgot to tell him that, duh! hehe. IT's the same principal as running dual 2s and dual 4s together on the same amp... not a good idea. It "might" not hurt anything but i wouldnt do it personally. Funny, i just completely changed my answer, lol

oh no, if your amp is at least 2 ohm stable and you wire it to 1.5 ohm, then you are fine! A dual 4 ohm sub wired to 2 ohm usually sits at 1.4 ohms. Some RE subs sit at 1.2 so you are definitely fine.

Umm... umm.. i dont know what to say. I haven't never reconed a sub before but i'm wonderin if it's possible to have 2 separate coil readings from an improper reconing.

Hey Jay-C76, register at www.502streetscene.net Stick to the car audio section, you'll get more updates there. OK, i'm back! Here are the results- I did a 148.0 during clinic but... i only posted a 147.7 Legally. This was at the Kick, passenger door open @42hz = 2 AQ HDC312s at a metered 2,300w of power in a box less than 4 cubes so way smaller than recommended. I was able to break a 147 @34hz during clinic too but since that's not my peak.. it's not legal. I won the most trophies, yea!!! I won 1st place in my class I won 1st place in music driveby in my class, I was 2nd overall. The guy that beat me only beat me 0.2db! And he had only 1 10" soloX! I tried and tried but couldnt beat his score... I ended up with a 129.4Db, he had a 129.6. I won 1st place in port wars out of ALL classes compared! I scored a 166.8. I also won my 4th trophy for being the best of show. Commented on the nice car, loud scores and very nice and clean sound quality on top of everything.. oh, and no external rattles either. I'm happy. Snoopdan showed up, he hit a 154.6 with 2 18" FI subs(do not know model right now) off of 5,000w Adassa Warlord @36hz in a wall. The 2nd overall loudest SPL run there was done by hitting a 150.3 with 4 15s. I would also like to comment that someone else that was there was VERY close to tying with me in some events even though he wasnt in my class.. he was actually in a lower class. He ran 1 10" SoloX off of around 1kw-1.5kw. He scored a 129.6 in music driveby and a 164.1 in port wars and a 143.8 in SPL run at the kick with door open as well.

The current charts that can be found online goes by a guideline such as do not use, for example, a 1/0 cable for more than 245A or you will have substantial voltage drop. They do state there can be variations of the current limit by many things mrogowski said but what i'm looking at is... if the amp can pull 1000A, expect 500-700A of pull from constant or near constant bass line songs, not 200A. For such a voltage drop would increase current if the PS in the amp is regulated. Whether it is or not, in my opinion, you will probably need more batts than normal to keep the voltage up compared to another set of amps with the same pull. I only say this because you can use a lot more wire with multi amps or 1 very large one such as Atomic 5000.1, Hifonics Colossus, Kicker Warhorse... they all have dual power\ground terminals for the necessity of keeping the voltage up.

My intentions are not to brag sarcastically but just to let others know what just happened- I'm trying to sell all of my audio stuff so i can go with 2 AQ HDC318s and 2 AQ3500ds soon in a wall. I just got home and went to check out on my sells before going to bed. What did i see? A used AQ3500d being sold but already 3 pages worth of "you got PM" so i figured it was sold but not yet... Within 5 minutes of seeing this for sale thread, i contacted him and received a price and paypal email... He said, first one who pays gets it! I got plenty of funds so i immediately sent the money and WON he amp! How much? Only $440 for the AQ3500d! It's a nice story, totally unexpected, shocking and grateful this just saved me some money for this new project.

IF he's basing that musical draw will average a third of peak that's too risky because most of the music I listen to draws way more than 30% compared to test tones. Since i'm in no hurry, sure, i'll wait but i'd like to hear how this thing responds to a full song, a full constant bass line song.

You have to stay on topic now, what are you DoInG?!?! You can't trail off topic and try to help him or else you'll be asked to stop helping him forever....

i dont have an account over there but i like advancements. Bring it over here.

not safe! dont expect to pull 1000A of current for music through a single 1/0 run of power\ground without either a fire or a fuse popping first in the powerline. 1/0 can only handle between 240-300A. Continuous use... very bad.

After doing some research, it's obvious from an "electrical system" point of view that this amp can't be used for daily. It uses single 1/0 power\ground and single speaker connections. Stated to pull 1000A of current. You would need a minimum of 3 3/0 power AND ground connectors to support that feed safely. I'm a daily driver so i'm out. Now, for those in comps who burp ONLY, then you should keep close eyes on this thread.