shizzzon

You gonna say that after i told u how much money to expect to spend? Man, don't dog me like i came on u doggin. I'm lettin u know how it is! Why? because there are others that post the same thing u did with very vague info "as if" they didnt know it wouldnt cost that much so when i give them a wakeup call, they get scared of reality and wise up and understand why it cost so much so lets start from the beginning. 4 18" BLs off of 2 Kole 5500s- I'm gonna keep this straight forward so u can get some BIG help here. 2 Kole audio 5500ds- ~$ 620 shipped. Terrible amp choice. It only has 150A worth of fusing AND does not accept 1/0 wire. That is unsafe practices and not wise for trying to keep voltage up during heavy current draw. You can run a BL off of each one of these amps so expect about 800w going to each BL off of one of these amps. The good side to this amp is since it doesn't output a lot of power, it will save on battery requirement. 4 18" BLs - Well, since you will be underpowering these subs, you need NO options so the total for all 4 is $1468 shipped. So now we are at $2088(subs + amp) Now lets look at the box. With 4 18s, u gonna need around 24cubes NET which is gonna be about 36cubes external. So, estimate about 8 sheets of MDF because you are definitely gonna have to at least double up everywhere and triple or quad baffle the front. 8 sheets ~ $200 I would highly suggest in all-thread bracing, resin coating, steel supports inside, etc.. -~$350 So, now, your box is lookin to cost around $550 which isn't too bad. Total so far- $2638 Now, let's look at your head unit. OF course this varies but if u are like me, gotta have the nice head unit to go with the nice setup. Head unit\DVDplayer, etc- $1,200 Total so far - $3838. Now, lets look at factory speaker replacements- Before we begin, you must STOP. Why? Because, you want so much bass, there will not be any speaker set around that can keep up with it. So, you must have all new doors fiberglassed to hold multiple sets. Fiberglass job for both doors- ~$3,000 Total so far - $6838 Now, lets say each door can hold 4 sets of components now, Yea!! now we have some good front stage to work with. You spend approx $300 PER component set for an average set, nothing high end, that's ~$1,200 for your front stage. total so far- 8038 Now, they need to be amped- I would ONLY recommend Sundown 100.4s because they are a damn good amp with LOTS of x-over settings for speakers. 4 of these refurbed from DB-r would be ~$900 Total so far - 8938 Speaker wire, power\ground, rcas, multi fuse holders, battery terminals- ~$650 Why so much? because u gotta run a lot of cable for 6 amps and lots and lots of fusing. Total so far- 9538 Sound deadening - Because your vehicle is a lot bigger than mine, i drive a Scion tC, you are gonna have to spend WAY more than i did to keep your vehicle deadened properly. I spent almost $700 so you are most definitely gonna have to invest close to around $900. Total so far - 10,438 Alternator - You are gonna need either a single 250-300 or a dual 220 approx. Cost is gonna range between $450-$1,200 depending on single or dual and custom brackets + install. So, now your total is gonna vary- Total so far- 10,898-11,638 Now we need batts. You are gonna need around 150aH of batt if u go with dual alt or around 300aH if u go with single alternator. So, if u go with dual alt, 150aH (lets say 2 XS D2400s= 174aH) - that's $650. IF u go with single alt, you would need 3 D3100s. That's gonna be $1,200 total so far- 12,098- 12,288 So lets recap- we got the head unit, front stage doors and speakers, box, all your subs, all your amps and batts and alternator(s). What's left? The weight of the vehicle! this is gonna be WAY too heavy for safe operation. You need Air Ride- Average cost of bagging all 4 wheels + installation = $3,500 Electronic leveling control with remote adjustability = $2,000 Plus, you will need a VERY nice security system if you are wise. My security system on my car cost $1,600. So, lets put mine on your ride, total so far + basic air ride and security system- 18,198-19,378. Now you are basically done. the only thing left, contact your insurance provider and have everything you want insured. Your insurance will definitely spike. So, what's my total that i came up for you? $18,198 - $19,378. And not all of this is new, some is refurbed pricing. Dont skimp out on savin money on the whole front stage gig or no air ride because all u gonna end up havin is a crappy all bass and no music install and a vehicle that is about to slam down from extreme weight fatigue. I'd go by what i've seen bigjon said plenty of times on here. Gotta pay the cost to be the boss. I spent over $7,000 on just 2 12s, batts, alt, head unit, deadening, security, amps, etc.... Now, since u made me spill the beans, that is why i told you how much it would cost. Was i lying? YES, cuz i said 18,000, it's actually gonna be more,

YOU ARE GOING TO NEED ABOUT $18000! IF U HAVE THAT MUCH MONEY TO BLOW, THEN I'LL CONTINUE. ONLY IF U TURN THE CAPS OFF. U KEEP THE CAPS ON AND NO ONE WILL HELP YOU.

This is a real good reason why this is a bad box design for trunk cars. You have no breathing room for your box! It's restricting it's potential. You need decent amount of air flow around your box.

thats not a good box design for a trunk car. Try, sub back port back with plenty of "breathing room" on at least 1 side of the box. You can also try firing all subs to one side of the car and port back if u can make a box fit like that. Your other option is to fire the subs forward and vent to one side. One side is greater than another so a meter is essential in testing these designs.

I would ALWAYS recommend 0 gauge cable. The thicker, the less voltage drop. The less voltage drop, the more wattage. Battery terminals are always a toss up. Get something that is rated for the current you are gonna be shooting through them and you wil be fine. In your case, practically any battery terminal will work.

how is sub and port facing? Also, where are you putting this piece of wood at? I'm assuming your box is in the trunk which makes u fold the back seat down correct? What you NEED to do is plug your port(s) with something so no air can get out of the box. Get back on a TL and do a sweep in your car. It will tell you what your peak frequency is. From there, unplug your port(s) and try burping right at that frequency and up to 3 notes below and above it. Remember- After the sweep, let the subs cool down and keep your battery charged! After every 2-3 burps, u need to let the subs cool a little and make sure the batt is still at the same voltage. PS - I gotta help u get loud as best as possible because i plan on runnin some Lvl3s soon so i gotta make sure they have good potential.

i think that's a pretty decent score for being sealed. roll the opposite window all the way down or better yet, open the opposite door all the way. Scoot both driver and passenger seats all the way up, flip sun visors strictly vertical.

OK, well that's cool. Yea, i wish i could go up a level but weight reasons... I'm REAL interested in these!

If i were to run 4 Level 3 15s, i have some competition questions about them. I do like that they have a 3" coil by the way Ok anyway, i plan on running a 3500d per PAIR of Level3s if i went with them. For daily, it wouldnt be that much, just for comp. Under heavy excursion- What will happen first- Bottom out or tinsel lead snapping? During music play, will there be tinsel lead slapping? Under heavy overpowering- When running a 3500d on a pair of Lvl3s, i know this may be hard to answer, but what should i expect if i run a 30sec average on music with these at that power level... and probably clipped if i still hadnt reached xmech yet... I'm tryin to find out just how quickly these subs will heat up with the given scenario. Also, Lvl3 subs, i'm assuming would be a good line to use for burps as well, correct? Low mass, decent efficiency, decent throw.. This is what i am noticing. I cannot go with any higher Level from DC so please stay on topic with this post. I seem interested in these.

Well, i'm bout to do a 4 15 install in my car and i go ported all the way. Tuned low for music and swappable for competition. In my install\opinion, if i'm gonna go loud, i might as well port. The thing u gotta see is, if u do decide to port, do u have the room to port? A box that large will have a port displacement around 3-4 cubes!

The AQ2200d can do what u want. When it's back in stock they are only $389 shipped. 2200wrms 1%THD 2500wrms 10%THD

I like a collection challenge. I seriously dont think i have that many version but i do have over 5,400 songs in just horrorcore. This isn't limited to just Psy. Records but also others such as Bedlam, Sycksyde, Sinister X, etc... ok, anyways, back to ur topic. Check out some of these options and let me know what u think- Without any electrical upgrade- 2 12" AQ SDC2.5s + AQ1200d = $577 2 10" AQ SDC2.5s + AQ1200d = $557 For cheap and loud, Audioque is a great choice. You can also try Mach5Audio, they have pretty decent cheaply priced drivers. FI SSDs are priced pretty cheap. For amps, Audioque also sells some pretty powerful amps for a cheap price. You can also go to www.db-r.com and get u some pretty cheap priced sundown amps that have been refurbished AND is authorized by sundown.

damn, u got plenty of money for what i was thinkin. You gonna upgrade your electrical system any? Also, does ur sub budget include the box or is there a separate budget for the box as well?

i can mention a LOT of sub choices for under $500-600 but i need to know either what amp u plan on running or how much u willin to spend on one so we can go Chicken Huntin

Well, what kind of power you think on pushin, Juggalo?

I heard rattle when you showed us the back. Get some secondskin deadener. I was running over 4kw worth of audio in my car without exterior rattle so it's capable of being deadened.

I'm completely open to alternate sub choices if u think u may have found somethin that fits my range. Here is all the main points i am looking at- Must be 4 15s. Must be either dual 1 or dual 4. Must be no heavier than ~26lbs per sub. Must fall into a particular price range as well. Why? Because this project, this "upgrade" isn't really costin me hardly anything because of everything i am selling. I'm wanting to spend no more than $1,000 on subs TOTAL, that includes shipping. So, let me look at your choices you presented- RE SX - too expensive. Gonna be over $1,300 for all 4 of them. WMD - too expensive. Gonna be over $1,200 for all 4 of them. iXL- Incorrect impedance configuration. The only other set that i found that came close to the SSDs were MMats P3.0 15s but i would have to pay close to $1,200 for all 4 and i'm not doin that. I also had an eye on Treo SSis but they have WAY too much mass to them and would be a bad choice for competition.

I thought we was talkin about pancakes for breakfast tomorrow morning? Things change,

they are single 4 ohm? the name says 12d4, i assumed they were duals. well, then yes, 8 12s would surpass 4 15s in cone area but... do u have the room. Most 1s like 2-2.5cubes per, so 8 of them needs at least 16cubes NET

the 187s because the 8 hifonics can only be wired to 2 ohms per amp. First thing u gotta do is find out how much volume u are gonna have. That will narrow your results a LOT quicker. Once u find that out, the cheapest\loud ratio would be to go with 15s or 18s. Me for example have 12-14 cubes NET, so i'll be goin with 4 15s. If u could get about 20 cubes NET, i'd seriously think about gettin 4 18s.

Yes, i almost forgot about this... But before you get too carried away, you better not use my oh so popular build log to attract attention to your setup, hehe. No, but i have high expectations for his upcoming setup. 2 10" FI SSDs off of a single IA 20.1 in a trunk car. He wanted to be able to just break a 140. I'm gonna see if this baby can break a 143. Crossin my fingers...

i hope u know i was referrin to what little i have now... I'm walkin around bassboxin waiting for my new setup to manifest itself to be.

Well BTLS weigh a ton compared to SSDs. I'm tryin to keep my total sub weight no more than 100lbs. nah, if i truly was discouraged about the conclusion of the problem with the amp, i wouldnt still be a customer, Just like other companies here, great customer service. I know i can get service done to an SSD if i ever needed to. Besides, might as well try a new company while i'm switching over.

I got u beat,

I've never heard the SDC2.5 either, just the HDC3s and the original HD3s. From talkin to AQ, the SDC2.5 is built pretty much like the HDC3s, just a little younger, if u know what i mean. They still focus on how stout of a sub it is but it would be dumb to incorporate the exact same specs in the HDC3 as for the SDC2.5 due to unnecessary weight reasons. The thing that still shocks me is the 2.5s vs the HDC3s in terms of excursion is the 2.5s only lost 0.7" maximum mechanical movement. That means they can STILL move an ungodly amount of air. I would actually run them for my new project but since they only use a 2.5" coil, they wouldnt be a smart choice in comps for what power i'm gonna be runnin.