shizzzon

The term "bump" is actually an abbreviation for- Bump Up My Post Meaning, if no one has posted anything in it lately, people type bump so it's now the newest topic again and back on op of the list so it will get viewed more. The term "teh" has 2 meanings and can usually only be derived based upon how the sentence is formed. One meaning is simply- the word "The". The other meaning means it's slang for the person who typed it is laughing. This version is rarely used but does exist. The 09 models, again, are so new it be like waitin for a Z15 to start selling used like crazy. What you need to do is post in the Wanted section, the want to buy section, on here, caraudio.com, realmofexcursion.com, www.classifiedzz.com and any other u can think of and check em multiple times a day. If u had some 09 models, the first place you should look to sell them at is a wanted section because most people wouldnt expect to find any in the "For Sale" section for any time soon.

omghi2u!!1

lol, yea. I only had my gain half way so i know it's not my fault that the tinsel leads set fire and the spider ripped... that has to be manufacturer's defect!

omghi2u!!1 That's all i have to say.

i wouldnt use a rule of thumb for setting subsonic filter. Since it is a safety device, what i would do is play a tone that is far below tuning that you are not really gonna achieve while listening to music. So, if it's tuned to 32hz, turn subsonic ALL the way up and set your head unit to the maximum volume that you will ever play it at on a constant level. Now, while the 20hz tone is playing, gradually turn the subsonic filter down watching the excursion depth of the sub. You have 2 choices hear. Limit the movement to it's Xmax(u will hear a big difference once it moves out of xmax, linear excursion) or Xmech which is maximum mechanical excursion. Once you find a good peak for your excursion, leave the filter there and never turn your volume up past where u set this at and NEVER boost any bass settings or increase the gain from this point on or you will have to retune it again. OH, and be careful when doing this method. Be sure you are not sending a dirty signal, clipped signal, etc and not hellaciously overpowering the sub with a gigantic amp when doing this because you are playing a full amplitude test tone for a while and is the quickest way to heat up a speaker.

Well, while people is readin, guess i'll post a small update- Got all the rear seats out. Had to rewire some wires that the local shop had wrapped through the seats for the car alarm. Was able to measure the rest of the area for the upcoming wall. It looks NICE! Real volume is as follows- 15.5 Cubes NET for competition tuned to 54hz, burp at 60hz. over 215sqin of port. Now that the measurements have been confirmed... I have to contact my local Lowes and ask them a couple questions before i start buying all this equipment. Once i get all the wood in, building will begin. Expect this wall to take approximately 1-2 weeks to complete.. There is a LOT of dry time in what i'll be using. Pics to come once building has commenced. And Rusty at DC will be getting an order request somewhat soon as well.

or once a day, i'm all open on opinions. I'd like to see this thread go BiG. Or we could use this as a dump thread to roast on people when incidents happen... that JUST need roasting, lol

Every time Tmax98 posts, i become mesmerized and completely forgot why i came here. He knows how to bring the women with him.. sadly though, it's the same one everyday

Nope, it's not gonna be in pieces, it's gonna be built like a normal box.

Wow, i'm surprised you lost that much! try using as many runs of speaker wire that can possibly fit. brush resin in the port and in the entrance... and the whole inside of the box. round all corners, get the inside super slick. Another thing that takes a LOT of testing is port area. Just like an exhaust system, too little and too much will both cause a drop in output. Gotta find that sweet spot. I might be wrong but if you keep adding more and more sound deadening to the car, doesn't that lower the peak in your car? That, of course, would be a bad thing if it's true.

Thumpper- I really love your designs but must you humiliate my carpentry skills 3 times a week? It seems like every time i check SSA, you're "flarin" me up. Can you kerf one of your port walls an extra 1\2" and take a pic of it falling off the box? It would make me feel special again,

Then it's not a roast, it's merely a "guess who said this" theme or the particular poster posting their P.O.V. of one or more members. Aside from all that, I don't think this will work too well aside from a fraction of the members on this site who truly know each other well enough to pull this off. I'm sure once this picks up, the names will start to get mentioned... I know what u r saying.

I decided to be a member here, tired of all the CA.com drama . (1 month ago... I was kicked off Ca.com for being retarded and plan on getting out of hand after the 3rd post... so ban me now)

This is my normal font... You don't want me to go BOLD!

Um... hey i'm a new member here. I just woke up and took my car out for a while and noticed my stereo doesnt work anymore. Why?

I think it might be better to be kept anonymous... Maybe the new members that see this thread wont get a bad impression on others if they start skimmin through readin about others... And yes, if u think u know who it is... then it IS.lol

You ain't lyin. If it were me, and I LOVE headroom... I'd run around 2kw-2.5kw of amplifier rated power PER BL. Of course i would go about gettin some added options put on the BLs if i were to do that but that's what i'd do. IF smart with the tuning, will have no problems. Not to go off topic here but this summer, i will give a good example when i power 2 DC Lvl3 subs off of a 3,500w amp and they are only rated at 600wrms per sub.

I'd say build it between 6-7 cubes NET, no less. You build it any smaller and those subs are probably gonna want more. If they start to smell... check your clippin indicator, but i'm pretty sure u can go that high with ease with that power.

If you ask for LouD and good Sound Quality one more TIME.... I'm banning you and your Whole Country's IP Addresses!

I got a job for ya. You are about to possibly run out of ideas after you seal the front of this box. Have you thought about other options of getting louder? Still stayin in the same class of course... I know u are doin a good job at what u have, u sure got DJ smilin, hehe. Anyways, have u ever tested other box designs before u stick with the one u are usin? Is there any way you can keep the pressure buildin in the trunk and let it rip around the box? The last 2 cars i've tested, hatchback and trunk car, it was both loudest if using it for competition to run sub back port back... IF YOU HAVE THE ROOM! Problem with this design a lot of times is not enough room for batts and\or amps... I also will say firing to the side and with port back was very peaky loud as well. The cool thing about firing to the side is it may give you more room for equipment. I'd like to see u max your Grand Prix's potential out big time with a pair of 10s. I hope i gave u some info u can focus on. That's all i can think of at the moment without keeping current box and modifying it and\or the car.

Yea man, my electrical system alone cost me about $1,500. The OP's will cost a lot more. I know people who are on a budget strive for Deka Intimidators first then Kinetiks because they are cheaper than XS Powermasters... The good thing is, i have a buddy on here that has a Kinetik AND Deka Intimidator and since i own XSs, i thought i'd meter the floats on these batts. The XSs float at 13.2v. The Deka Intimidator and Kinetiks float at 12.8-12.9v. These batts will be more prone to higher voltage drop under load because they start off lower to begin with. 0.3v is a pretty large amount believe it or not.

New box design- Here is a pic of the upcoming design in a Scion tC, yes that itty bitty Scion tC. This should yield some numbers! The pic isn't drawn to scale 100% yet as i may add a couple more inches but this is what it will look like regardless- This image is showing the use of a wall with 4 15" DC Sound Lab Level 3s powered by 2 AQ3500ds. The port you see is 100% swappable. When no port is installed, the wall is 15-16 cubes NET and tuned to peak at 60hz, which is EXACTLY what my car peaks at with a simulated wall in my car. When there is a port installed, the wall is 12-13 cubes NET tuned to 32hz. For competition use, there is approximately 210sqin of port available. For daily use, there is approximately 145sqin of port available. The front of the box will be double baffled. The rear internal baffle that goes around the port opening extends INTO the port opening all the way around at 0.75". This allows a mounting point to install the port for music. This mounting point will have thread-locked reversed bolts sticking out of it for quick port assembly. Just slide music port through the bolts, slide the rectangular steel clamp(which acts as a "God washer") through the bolts then nut the suckers on there. On the inside of the box, there will be some sort of rubber stripping going all the way around the port opening so when the musical port is adapted to the box, there will not be any air leaks around the port base. This wall will actually start to begin not too long from now! I have to do some more finalizing on drawing graphics to the wall and how i'm going to build this sucker without getting into a jam... After i do that and order all my paint, building will begin.

your current port area is extremely too small!

Deka Intimidator is the only cheap AGM battery i know but they only float at 12.8 just like kinetik. XS Powermasters float at 13.2 which yields a lower voltage drop.

OK man, got some info for ya- This came from edmunds.com- Maximum Payload: 2099 lbs 4 18" BLs - ~ 150lbs Box - ~400lbs Batts - 125-215lbs Amps- ~85lbs Wire, etc- 60lbs Sound deadening - 150lbs Total so far- 970- 1060lbs FG'ed doors + comp sets - ~50lbs I see that your payload capacity is only approx 50% reached. Congrats! That alone saves 3,500-5,500. My payload is only 800lbs so i gotta run 60 3" subs to get loud, lol