shizzzon

i have been wonderin the same. The best way to find out is- Get multimeter and touch the farthest points apart on the rod and see if u get any resistance reading on the meter. If that isn't enough, send power through a speaker wire then through the threaded rod and see if there is a power difference.

sounds great... PS - when we gonna get some more box gain tests, hehe. I'm sittin here in anticipation hopin u get your results done before i finish mine.

yes it will work. I work on pcs, video game systems, etc... on my spare time. In terms of speed, it will have Lag, not slower, just a lag. Kinda like turbo but more exaggerated. It will always start to access things slow but will gradually get up to speed. I cant tell u what to expect, you have to do it and see for yourself. I can only show you the door, you must be willing to walk through it. When you get that error, the drive may not actually be dead but since a pc shop said it was, i can only assume they are right. Usually though, when you receive one of these 2 errors- SYSTEM DISK ERROR Replace disk, etc.... or OS not found That's a sign that it physically cannot see the hard drive. that either means it's not getting a signal or it has no partition or is not formatted.

someone mention steel earlier. I'll be be using steel to help brace this box. I would honestly pour small sections of concrete in it... but i do not have the weight for that.

do this- plug the external hard drive to your system, then turn the laptop on. boot into bios by holding or rapdily pressing DEL, F2,F10,F11 or F12. It's one of those keys. once in the bios, look for boot priority in there. when you find it, select the 1st boot device and see what options you have to choose from. you will be attempting to force USB HDD or HDD as 1st boot device. if you only have HDD as a choice, then you will choose that, then you will have to into a hard disk boot order screen somewhere in that area and change it so the external usb drive boots first in this menu. if you do not have windows on that drive yet, you WILL NEED to set xdrom to 1st boot device then everythng i just said as 2nd boot device.

that means it wasnt gettin what u was runnin to it. Those AQ2200ds i was usin earlier, i was only gettin a max of about 940w out of each one because my rise was so high. Wired at 0.7, rise STARTED at 2.3 ohms and went up from there.

It appears to be a terrible choice for music.

tinting alone is actually worse! For those out there who tint your car for security reasons only will only make it worse and this is from experience. Breaking through a tinted window is silent and almost mess-free. If you are gonna tint, might as well install break proof glass and\or a sensitive alarm. Adding sheets to glass requires to increase sensitivity on the shock sensor so it can pickup vibrations.

Let me explain what happened. I've had this happen before way back when i didnt know anything technical. The tinsel leads caught fire due to excessive current. I had this happen when my subsonic filter on a crappy sub was set way too low for the box i was using and decided to turn it up just a couple notches about where i listen to it at. Yea, it got louder, but it immediately set on fire within 12 seconds into the song. Because the tinsel leads were sewn into the spider, both sides of the spider burnt right through. Sadly, it's simply from running music or whatever it was with non-stop clipping. It generated a ton of heat and unnecessary current. No speaker company that i know of will warrant burnt spiders, coils, tinsel leads, etc because it's from neglected install. Now, if the company used itty bitty gauge wire on the leads, then yea, that's different but i highly doubt it. The funny thing is that some companies like Kenwood put fuses on the terminal leads so if you try to overpower them or somehow force excessive current through the sub, the fuse will pop restricting problems from occurring. I, personally, think that idea is retarded on so many levels but it's one way to stop it from happening.

you'll only feel regret if you do not know exactly either what you are doing or if you think something may fail. All the things you must consider- Air bags will eliminate the weight restrictions on the vehicle. Better braking system will allow you to stop better; extra weight slows down braking time. Having plenty of batteries will keep the voltage up. Do not attempt to charge batteries that are floating almost 1 full volt below maximum charge. This will leave an alternator wide open and depending on hwo many batts there are, it can burn the alt up quick. If your batteries are low, charge them at home. Alternator is to keep them running, not to be taken by granted that it charges regardless of voltage level. If building a wall, lay down plastic sheeting throughout the whole vehicle then install the wall. When done, cut out as much of the sheeting as possible. This way if you ever need to tear it down, nothing was ruined in the build process.

I hope u dont live around KY because i'm bout to do a wall with 4 15s and i dont want to be put to shame, If money is no object and since u know what it would cost, let me tell u my experience in researchin- 4 15s have more cone area and when comparing 4 15s to 2 18s in the same class, the 4 15s will always be louder in the proper enclosure. For competition, you can bassrace with 4 15s a lot longer without worrying about power compression as much as 2 18s. For competition, if burping, it's a toss up if both setups were ran on the same amount of power but if you are gonna add extra amps for 4 15s, then burping with 4 15s would be devastating. You also gotta look at port area. Running that much power on 4 15s, lets say 14,000w, 16cuft NET tuned to 32hz, you gonna need around 200sqin minimum and a length of at least 20". Ports this big usually take up around 3 cubes inside the box so u would need close to around 20cubes GROSS before you start the box\wall build. For 4 18s, you are lookin at around 26cubes NET and around 32 cubes GROSS internal.

get break proof laminate sheeting, car alarm with pager and contact insurance company and get your aftermarket coverage increased to a point that will cover everything that can be stolen or damaged.

i think it's more the coil or the tinsel leads not fryin than the glue gettin too hot. So... it may be worthless. What you are after might be useful in a varying constant power environment where heat slowly builds up over time, none of the wires would be burnt because it's not constant current... Like bassracing at 5kw+, lol, i'm serious. that would be insane.

that's basically what i want to make sure of, hehe, that i didnt drastically make a wrong choice at the last minute. I've always been eyeing the 15s anyway. This is what i'm hopin to pull - My last setup was 2 12s and 2,300w of actual power, i pulled a 148.0 in clinic and a 147.7 actual, 129.4 Driveby! That was in a hatch firing forward and not sealed in the back either. Little trickery with the box design though. With this wall, i'm hopin to pull around a 152 burp on no more than 120A worth of fusing. For full out burping, no fuse limitation, hopin for a 155. I'm also expectin to do 150+ on music. If i can meet those needs, i'll be happy.

Cant, weigh too much, i want to stay below 140lbs on woofers.

Jesus... Well, i was talkin with someone else a while ago and they told me that they seriously believe in bass race, the 15s should walk over the 18s due to power compression but for a burp, it's a toss up. So.. unless i'm persuaded, the 15s still seem reasonable.

i should have asked this earlier, walled or no? I just asked this over at CA and they really have no idea either, lol That is a good number though!

great, now i'm really gonna be stuck as to which to buy... 2 XL will save me both money and weight. How much power did u have goin to your XL? I'm gonna have a 3,500w amp to push either a single 18 or a pair of 15s. Comp box volume = 15.5 cubes NET Music box volume = 12.8 cubes NET

I got all the pieces cut today, well, all the main ones. I still gotta cut the sub holes out and the port hole, port plug and port wall but that's the last thing i'll do before i install it. I'm gonna try and "simulate" it being put together tomorrow so u guys can see how big it is outside.

yep, the Xcons weigh just over 50lbs.

if u do, be VERY careful. Do not let someone just rewind an alt to 300A and say, ok it's done. They must upgrade everything for it to work or it will overheat and die. Need a larger case, bigger rectifier, regulator for the job, etc. and make sure if u do get a 300A alt custom that it is rated for HOT and not cold.

mechman and iraggi alternator makes 300a alts for some cars... if u got the money, usually close to 700

oh, hmm. This is more mechanical than anything. Get someone else out there with you and meter the battery terminals when in park, gun it and see if you get the same thing on a multimeter. First, we gotta see if your dash gauge has a faulty sensor first. 2nd, it's possible the voltage regulator may be damaged. 3rd, inspect your belt for extreme slippage. Also, check for corrosion around battery terminals and alternator.

i'm assumin that's a 4800w amp? If this is strictly for daily drivin, get the largest alt u can get, 250-300A for your ride. For batteries- a single D3100 can keep up with that setup as long as u have at least a 250A alt. You "might" have slight voltage drop but nothin below 13.0v, lucky if u drop to 13.5 if ur alt runs at 14.9v that is. If u want utmost solid voltage possible, dual D3100s would be like the master system for your electrical needs. You still need a high output alt regardless.

how r u measuring this?