shizzzon

Looks great! Well, now i can tell everyone in town that u got someone Ate.. i mean Eight, haha

Ok guys, nmssd12 wants to see some pics of the lights... but pics wont do it justice so i'll have a video up tonight. I gotta get back out here and resand\paint these pieces i did today and get everything cleaned up and all that and by then, it should be dark enough to see the light show. Vid expected within 90 minutes or sooner from time of posting.

this is what i was told a while back when there were reports of a lot of them being repaired. Maybe it was a coincidental speculation.

only thing i can tell u is patience. There is no phone number.

i dont know about state laws like that but i do know if u want to put a battery in the cab with you, make sure it's 100% sealed so it doesnt vent off any gas while charging\discharging. Look for AGM type batteries.

I just got back from seein in several minutes ago. The movie was leading up to be what it looked like slow throughout but in the last 30-45 minutes, it started to really pick up and fit into the story a lot better. For those that do not know, there will be 2 additional Terminator movies as long as they meet their profit quota for this release as the contract states, signed by John Connor, aka Christian Bale. The movie was decent, probably even better if you watch it again. I still do not believe that it will be the "best movie of 2009" just because of how much money they spent... but still a movie to see.

I don't know specifics but there was a problem with them failing.

i'm surprised he hasn't blown the onboard fuses yet on those 1500s.

when u say glass, is this a mixture of Fg and resin or just resin and how much?

hey, is that possible? send to mythbusters?

Got some more prep work done. I reran my underbody light kit to the rear cabin area. I had to because the "brain" was so squished under the dash that the lcd screen to it wouldnt work sometimes bacause the connector was being bent up there. Now, it's suppose to rain for the next week! If i can get some non-rain time in there, i need to attempt to rewire all my wheel well lights as well and relocate them to a master relay in the rear of my car that i have hooked up to a distribution block. This will take some hours! I also was able to get the floor, both front side walls and the back painted today! I still need to paint 3 separate top pieces, the rear floor, both rear side walls and rear back wall(all rear pieces are an addition to the volume of the box) and cut\glue\drill out sub holes for front baffle then paint it too. I was up at Lowes today doin some lookin over the steel bars. It's apparent that only 3\8" thick steel is suitable for this build. 1\4" thick steel was still too flimsy for my taste. I hope it works the way i want to though. This steel is only 1.5" wide x 3ft long. I hope it's dispersing strength is high.

u can use my phone. My phone can record up to 4hrs of video. I'm sure somewhere in that 4hrs is somethin good to see,

The link was somehow pasted wrong. Here is the appropriate link- SSA Combo Deals

In my last design in my hatchback, i had 2 12s off of 4,400w of power and a local team in my area was bracing the outside of my car and let me know that they could feel air seeping through the seal of my sunroof. Also, the sunroof was flexing pretty good which isn't good either for SPL. I am currently building a wall so it will REALLY flex now with lots and lots of air seepage... So, hehe, what do i do? The only thing i could think of is stick as many towels or shirts in between the glass and sliding door as possible but this is a temporary solution only in the lanes. For longterm bracing, what should i do?

if i could find a way to get the headliner down, i'd like to see if i can fill, lay or spray a sealant all around the sunroof.

there are pros and cons to limiting excursion. You can limit excursion greatly by retuning the box so that the tuning frequency IS the peak frequency of the car. This is the best way but a major con if lowering excursion in high powered setups is less excursion = quicker heat buildup. The problem though is if you are running music in a box tuned like this, it won't help so a combination of smaller enclosure and tuning the box at a frequency that would normally reach xmech would help greatly.

exactly, i'm not doing that to a car that has a high resale value.

yea but he's runnin 10,000w of amplifier power too. IF you have small air space, do NOT EVER go with Kicker square subs, any series. They require very large amounts of air space and is not what you are looking for. Most circular 10s that you will find featured by companies that are supported here will do well in around 1cuft. 1 cube should be fine for most 10s.

i think i drove through east nowhere, GA on my way to Florida a few weeks ago because at some point in Georgia, my GPS lost signal and didnt know where i was at for a few minutes.

You gonna love it at night,

ok, well i'll add that to my required testing on the meter, hehe. I'll know in about 3-4 weeks.

even on the mic? What if i over-run wire? If i attempt to run 2-4 8awg wires per sub to the rod and the same amount to the amps... will that help on a meter or is that overkill?

i will have 3 coats of paint to put on. also, i cant paint all the pieces in one day because all the pieces are huge and i don't have enough room to lay out that many pieces at once so i gotta paint the wall in sections... I am gonna do it in a fast order though. Secure the floor to the car then modify and attach the rear wall to the floor. After that is done, attaching the sides to the wall will take the longest... I must do 1 side wall then get all of my all-thread aligned so i can "pre-brace" the wall before i attach the other side. Then mount the baffle and somehow get 2x4s in there so i know where to put them when the subs come in.. complicated but possible. Again, this will be another tight-ass fit in this car but i'm all about a challenge.

OK, just got done doin some test fittin and i just found out that i will have to build the entire box and form it to a wall inside the vehicle. I had hopes that i could build the box out of the car then take the seat and console out and slide it in there but nope, impossible. By B pillars are angling into the cabin and do not give enough width to allow such a design to fit when built. Here is a picture of the car it is goin in- Here is a rough pic of the front baffle. Of course, far from done, still gotta jigsaw some edges at the top but just to show how big it will be- If i can get my rollers ready, i guess i'll start paintin the pieces tomorrow. Painting should take close to a week to finish. Once it's done, i'll start inspecting the install area and find a suitable way to bolt the wall down to the floor. Plastic sheeting must be laid down throughout the whole car so no glue, saw dust or any other materials get on my carpet. So, from what i'm seeing, if i stay on planned schedule, you guys should start seeing some mad pics of this build log starting next weekend!

yea, i have 3\4" rod i'll be using. My multimeter only reads 1\10th of a decimal so i cant give an accurate answer on what kind of resistance it offers.