shizzzon

shizzon, how did you manage to fit 7,432 batts in a scion? This one tops em all right now.... but then again... when did we start putting ring terminals in other terminals?

I've been wanting to make a thread like this for a while but i hadn't because I didn't really know how to do it so I guess we'll just figure it out as we go. Everyone knows what a Roast is so u already get the idea. For the mature out there that are a member of this forum, this isn't to post whore or to straight up dog on somebody like they do over at CA. I also expect not for anything to be taken out of control. Anyone who gets roasted, it's NOTHING PERSONAL so do not forget that. It's something funny that this community will get a kick out of. Read a roast, laugh, move on... No constant dogging on someone to the intent of creating a problem. For those that know what a roast is, i'm sure you've seen them on tv or have been a part of one with your family maybe at some point. The rules are sketchy at the moment because i don't know what will make it more fun. The main thing i'm stuck on is if a member who is roasting should call out the member who is being roasted or if it should be a guessing game. For the time being, i'll leave it is a guessing game so others can get a good laugh while others try to find out what is being talked about. At least this can be controlled without getting out of hand. AND LIKE ALWAYS - the rules of the board apply so do not violate the ToS. This is for fun and not for the intent to harass, etc... So, i'll start off i guess, i gotta be the one in the spot light... Hi, i'm new here, i dont know much about car audio but i have been doin some research and thinkin about runnin 8 21" IA Wardens in my Miata i just bought last year. My friend said i should break 200db easy because i have a small car. I dont have the money for batteries so you think my stock alt can power 8 of these off of 8 24,000w Legacy amps? They each have a 5A fuse on them so i should get pretty close to rated power. Thanks. OH and i almost forgot, i'm saving up money for noise citations!

after doing extensive research about this- The answer is = 1\4" I've always used 3\4" regardless how small the internal volume was and wouldnt use anything smaller.

didnt get much done because i am\will be very busy the rest of the week but i did get something done. I got the Baffle mounted today, Yay!!! I used a whole caulking tube of Liquid Nails in under 20 minutes.... well 60% of the tube anyways. I had already used some previously. I ran out so i gotta pick some more up tomorrow. I have to fill in a couple small gaps, then make my "special" rounded corners, four more of those, seal the entire front part of this box up real good.. then get ready to run over 50ft of 8awg wire for the speaker wire coming soon. Once that's ran, the 2x4s will then be aligned and tightened and thread-locked into place. Once this is done.. the next BIG thing is attaching the rear chamber to the front chamber and securing it to the car in one process... yes this will be fun in a bad way,

Well, that should be the end of this topic.. That amp is very nice. I would definitely get that over the Audiopipe. Because it can output the same power over various loads, the average output power this amp can put out would be higher than most other amps giving you a louder overall install... meaning more bang for your buck.

get dual 2 ohm, it will save you money on the amp. For an amp, get an Audioque AQ1200d. I believe it's 249 shipped so u can use your other dollar you saved to get something to drink while it's hot as hell right now.

what i do is setup my amps with 0db tones i create. Mainly because i compete so i gotta make sure i get the most clean signal out for test tones. For music, i always turn it up higher than the volume i had it set at when using an o-scope for the same reasoning u said above, to get more power due to minimal clipping. I don't turn it up much higher but a little bit higher.

Switch themes and it will go away.

what r u talking about? maybe i can help you

same as a regular port... except the port does not displace any internal volume so you pick your internal volume and take displacement for sub away and your done. If u know you got room to add a port later after box is built.. then that is your external port.

it actually depends on the driver. Drivers with large Xmech values can be tuned higher than others because they have excursion capability of playing below tuning before completely bottoming out. I can't say this and that driver can do it, it's pretty much trial and error per install. My last setup with 2 AQ HDC3 12s was tuned to 38hz but the SSF was set to 24hz so i could receive maximum movement out of these subs.

I hope so! I had to stop working today due to pain... I am using Nylon polylock nuts on the outside of the box on the all-thread so once they are on, they arent coming off. Well, i can't get a socket wrench back there so i have to use a pipe wrench to hold the allthread steady, a crescent wrench to hold the inside nut from turnin and another crescent wrench to turn the nylon polylock nut 1\4 turn at a time. I don't know if u have ever tried tightening one of these nuts before but once the nylon hits the threads, it's like tryin to tighten something that's already tightened. The only problem is... this is the stage where you start tightening, hehe. I spent 42 minutes tryin to finish tightening this one nut and still am not done. I had to stop because i got work tomorrow and it's labor intensive and i dont want to hurt myself the day prior to work. It's gonna be hella hot here tomorrow so i'm definitely not workin on it tomorrow but hopefully tuesday. Once i get that nut, the other side nut(which i'm dreading), i just have a couple quick tight jerks on the 2 inside nuts, then i go and start sealing everything up in that area real good! This will also be the time where i install the other corner pieces i am using. This takes 3 days of cure time to complete so once i get the corners in place... i move to the rear of the box and finish installing that while the corners are curing. I am honestly almost done building this design. What's gonna take some time is waiting for my amp to come in and making a new floor covering for the hatchback area and redesign it so it will safely hold my 2 batteries and 3 amps in the rear... Oh and run my 60+ft of 8awg speaker wire. I'm dreading that too, hehe. I'm hopin that by the end of this coming weekend, this thing should be put together. Maybe not 100% complete done but the box complete.

hehe, not you, Earsplitter wanted to know hwo i was able to get over 7,000 batteries in my car.

lol, i hope u are not serious? Gotta have a little humor in my sig.

they should be here within the next 2 weeks or so. Here is some more pics for ya guys- So you wanna know how to brace an enclosure with 4 15s? Here's one way- The 2x4s are not secured to the box yet until i put the subs in so they will be lose for a while but this is how it will look when complete, of course the back is still not put on yet but you get the idea- The orange is fluorescent paint. It looks rather splattered on there right now but once the subs are mounted to the baffle and it's nighttime, that orange will be the only thing you wil see and will be VERY bright at night.

actually, u can get em for under 350. Any good? as far as i know, that amp is similar to the 3000w Massive audio amp. Massive Audio is pretty decent for competition and street beating. I would classify Audiopipe as a Lanzar\Hifonics type company.

i'll have them once they come in. They are commin in from Toronto so it will be a while. Plus, it was 2 separate shipments since the custom DC Audio logo had to be made. It's nothing fancy so dont start hype about that. I'll just take pics once they are installed since it's hard to see them in the wrap they come in. I'll try and take em at night because they are all reflective vinyl so they "light up" at night.

ah good info.

i have to as per rules of being on a Team,

if it's a monoblock amp, then it is wired in parallel inside. A DMM will tell u this once it's hooked up. It will only parallel connections if you havent done so already. If your connections are already in parallel or series, running a single line of positive and negative to the amp will not change anything.

i'm not worried about a broken window, i have ACE Security protection. I'm just worried about vandalism.

yes, u find me some speaker wire that doesnt come as a pair of wires and i'll.... well, you can't, they all do.

my reasons are probably different than his. if this wire is for your single ICON, you can use 10awg just fine, probably 12 but i'd personally do 10. For me, it's for comps so totally different reason. For the OP, i'd stick with speaker wire too. Not necessary to go crazy.

That's what i'm about to do. I need 95ft though for 4 15s, I'm considering runnin 2 runs of 8awg for every terminal.

You guys arent seeing what he did. PUT THE SMALLER PULLEY BACK ON. The smaller pulley lowers the pulley ratio allowing the new alternator to start charging at idle. Since you have removed it and put a larger one on it, the alternator is NOT ON. It's idle charge isn't being kicked in until at a later stage, anything over idle. Pulling any current at the state it's in right now at idle is the same as doing it with the car off. Also, it's VERY bad to keep it like that because it's pulling lots of current out of the battery to keep the car running. I hope you aren't in a traffic jam anytime soon with that large pulley on there. It's common to have to change belts when installing a high output alternator.