shizzzon

So... i was wondering what are the effects of running 2 giant gobs of wire out of a wall(8 runs of 8awg per side), one on each side of the wall and filling it in with whatever. this would just seem to cause some loss in SPL wouldnt it? I dont know if i just fill it in with silicone or should i shoot expanding foam in there... i dont know? Also, when i'm messing with the wire any, if the wire gets moved through the hole, would it "un-seal" the hole?

ok u guys better come up with somethin different or i will continue to run all wire through pvc pipe and seal it with expanding foam... I just got back from measuring the resistance across brass bolts and i got between 0.15-0.18 ohms. This translates as follows- For every 1,000w being sent from the amp, only 850-870w is getting through. So, when i'm over here running 7,000w of power. Theoretically, if the amps were to be able to output 7,000w, the subs would only see up to a maximum of 6,087w. That's enough to lose a few tenths of a Db easily.

i see someone here knows who Lifeline is. Great choice on those batts. I always wondered how they would hold up in competition. I know for street beatin, they are monsters. I would have went with Lifeline but didnt have the room at the time. Also, i wouldnt mind tryin Rolls Surrette batts.. but i dont have $1,000 for a battery, ya know, hehe.

been runnin into some complications with the build but finally fixed them a few minutes ago so i should be back on track. I was suppose to have the box completely built by tomorrow... that "may" happen but i doubt it. I'm lookin more like monday or tuesday now. After it's built, allow a couple more days for my corner pieces to completely cure before i start throwing the subs in the baffle.

i'm not tryin to start somethin crazy because i know FI would know more than anyone else about this but it appears, and correct me if i'm wrong, that ever since they've converted over to the new mags that these problems have been happening. I do not know if it's problems during shipping if they are more fragile or if it has something to do with the way how they are built but like any company, they would be losing money repairing the same type of problem over and over. IF it starts to become a normal occurrence, i'm sure they will start to investigate the issue.

I work on xbox360s and let me tell u this- If the board gets to the point to where it requires the use of a heat gun just to get it working again, it wont last long.. if it reaches a month, that might be a record! Single red ring is usually an indicator to go buy the new ones so you are not proned to hardware failure. Very few single red rings can be fixed. Most all 3 red rings can be fixed. NO fix will last forever. Forever meaning forever, 2 yrs is not considered forever in my book. I do sell "preventive failure" cooling solutions but i do tell the customers who owns them that this helps but depending on your gaming habits and how the console is sitting, nothing can prevent imminent failure. i am currently researching ways to modify the entire internal structure so i can pull the drive out of the case and use all that extra space as a massive cooling base. I am trying to keep this modification under $100 so it seems appealing.

safe? If you can keep the wire on the rcas then yes but do NOt connect it to the amp's ground. If that wire ever comes loose and touches the wrong thing... thats why i dont recommend grounding it to the amp itself. I would solder the wire onto the shield of the rcas using the highest amount of silver possible in the solder. very briefly touch the rca shield when iron is hot. You may need to put some braid or something that wont burn between the iron and the shield so you can heat the shield up slower while melting the solder. A quick way would be to tin your wire then just heat up the wire and let the solder flow over the shield and be done with it. I've never soldered onto the shield so if it doesnt work very well, you may need to use flux.

onto the technical side, i am unsure as to why this happens but it's not rare.

i thought this could be it, turns out it was. All it takes is one rca line to malfunction, it can feed back through the head unit and disrupt all other lines as well as it appears is what's goin on. that's why i said a while back in this thread if u eer got any extra rcas connected and just lyin around to pick em up as it can pick up enough interference to feed back as well. So, how to permanently solve the problem? Well, here's the kicker- Even though you have swapped out HUs, we have narrowed it down to 2 things, either the HU still or the rcas. Why am i considering the HU? Because you are still using the same brand. As with Pioneer, their HUs have been known to do this as well. A quick cheap simple solution would be to swap out both rcas with new ones. If this doesnt work, you must manually ground your rcas.

yellow = HOT red = ignition

another thing, after u have tried what i said above, take a wire and touch the frame of the car AND one of the rca's outside shield while connected to ONLY one amp at a time and see if it does anything.

OH ok... unhook ALL rca jacks then plug up just the substage and see if u get anything. If you do or dont.. unplug the substage again and only plug up the other set. Also- make sure u do not have any other rcas ran off of that HU and are just sitting in the car. IF you do, pick them up.

if worse comes to worse, i hope u have a bench tester, or just any 120v to 12v converter so u can pull it all out and start over 1 piece at a time.

Ok, lets go over everything- You have 1 amp powering your sub stage. You replaced the HU and it still does it. Your door speakers are wired to your HU. Even the radio does this... You must look at what hasn't changed. The door speakers wiring and the HU wire harness are still the same. However, since no bass outputs at all when door speakers are off too, i'm leaning toward the wire harness... Something behind the HU is touching something it isn't or something back there is malfunctioned that is a part of the wiring back there.

if it's not the ground, i'd check to see if any wires going to your speakers are grounding to metal.

r u sure brass is a good conductor? It's somewhere around #7 as the most conductive metal. Wouldn't i loose a good portion of power due to resistance in brass bolts?

This is gonna be a noob graphic question because i have never had graphics installed on glass before, just paint. None of my windows are currently tinted except for the rear hatch window. I am about to receive 9 separate graphics that are all gonna be installed on glass on my car. 3 on the windshield, 2 on each side window, 2 on each rear side window, 1 on rear tinted hatch window and 1 more on the small piece of glass that flips up when the sunroof is open and this piece is limo tinted. My question is, do these graphics go on the outside of the glass or the inside? If they go on the inside, how would i go about installing them and having the windows tinted because i am gonna have the windows tinted very soon.

ok, i'll check it out once i get to that stage.

i see, i dont have any resin left over from any job but i do have pvc pipe like crazy left over.

u dont want me to do my method?

thought about it forever, but the cost of extra wire, extra terminals, bolts, and the fear of them coming loose... i venture to this method.

you know, after sitting and thinkin about it, i think i know what i'll do. I'll cut the 2 holes out i need then run like a 3" long pvc pipe through it. glue it and seal it up real good. then get 2 grommets that would fit the 2 ends of the pvc pipe. run all the wire through the pipe then stick the nozzle in there and fill the entire pvc pipe up with foam. that should do it.

u might have low voltage at the amp, that doesnt mean the whole car is experiencing it as well. Quick thing to do- Turn off stereo first. Unplug the remote wire going into the other amp then turn your stereo on. Blast the hell out of it liek you normally would and see if that fixed the problem. If it did, you need a battery back there. If it didn't, then you will need to play a constant test tone pretty loud but being careful not to damage your subs and check the current voltage reading at the amp's power and ground terminal. If it's below 11v, you definitely need a battery back there. If it's above 11v, well, it's not low voltage problem.

i see u r in indiana. I will set your amp up for free if you dont mind driving to Louisville, KY. I have an o-scope so it will be a lot more accurate.

if u dont have the space, then dont run something that requires it. Also, as long as you are within 10% of the actual internal volume, there shouldnt be any audible difference.