shizzzon

contact www.mechman.com then ohio generator also, excessive amperage hard to find alts, try those 3 companies.

I promise you this- While it's true that lots of people go cheap and dont upgrade the alt, this is what is happening- the diodes in the alt when asked to output more than capable will eventually die. But until that time comes, it just takes longer to charge the batts that are in the vehicle. Plus, if someone jams for too long and has lots of batts to charge off of a stock alt, they can EASILY burn the alt up by leaving it wide open tryin to charge batts at maximum alt output. The power COMES from the batts when the alt can't keep up... but that's bad news for the alt in the long run.

then this is why then. at 6 cubes per, it's not recommended to run over 1000w per sub.

i don tknow if u know this but Kicker wants their customers to run their 15" L7s is 6cubes PER so you may have had them in too small a box. leonmpv- if u have a stock alt, that does NOT limit the amps from pulling power from somewhere else... like the batt. A LOT, and i mean a LOT of times, car audio will pull power out of batts depending on the nature of the music. If it's quick hitting bass, for example, that comes out of the batt. Why? Voltage regulator can't react fast enough to detect a sudden request of current so it is taken from the batt(s) and when the batt(s) fall below full charge, the alt will charge em back up while attempting to run your car audio setup too if it can react fast enough. More solid bass hits are mostly powered by alt but even when you need more current than what the alt can do, the voltage falls to that of the float of all batts and the batts take over. the voltage will then slowly drop from this point if the bass line is constant which indicates discharging the batts.

well, honestly, i may have to lean towards MTX with this one on many levels. The 12s you chose to compare to their 9500s are not a good comparison. Just going my paper work theory- 8 12" RF SD spec is - 4320 3 MTX 15" SD spec is - 2601 So, RF may have them on surface area... but excursion levels, MTX wins majorly in this area. While it is true that excursion may not play a huge role in SPL output, it does in low end output. For daily use, i would not wanna be caught playin a sub or a set of subs with only a 9mm xmax. The MTXs have just over 25mm and with a 4" voice coil, they would dominate in the low end area. Finally, look at power- 8 RF 12s = 1,200w 3 MTX 15s = 3,000w. It takes a doubling of cone area or power to achieve a 3db gain so by going by this theory, look- RF wins in surface area by 61% so lets say they are up by 1.7db But, mtx is 2.5x higher in power so - now mtx is up by 1.5db over RF. Adding the fact that with mtx's higher excursion capability for low end music will achieve higher numbers... i wouldnt expect a 6db gain. hopefully more than just 1.5db gain but not 6. Paper work theory is pointless until you have experience in real world scenarios. You cant tell someone how much they will gain db-wise... that's retarded. Paper work guessing can tell u but people dont get louder by looking at numbers on a paper.

i have lots of experience with Audioque, and unfortunately, i'm putting my vote to Xcon as well for you. Don't get me wrong, AQ is very nice, but if u are after that pure good sounding music all the time, i'm sure the Xcon is better. And, the HDCs can drop low better than hydraulics can. They are destructive low end monsters.

i have ur answer- IT's because people want to impress with a single sub, dont have the room for multiple subs or dont want to take up that much room for multi subs, or have NO CLUE about power compression. You pick one as those are the reasons why. Me, i like to get as much cone area to fit first, then work on the volume available, then decide how much power i am willing to supply.

since u need shocks, have you considered your actual weight capacity limit? Multiple Lvl5 18s and batts alone are gonna slam that baby down to the ground. Might wanna think about airride if u got the money or something else less expensive. PS - r u in Nebraska?

has anyone else found SSaudio the way i did? I found him by going to "My Assistant" then moderating team... I also found the real SSaudio, hehe, by doing research on car audio equipment. It's interesting to me that there really is no other forum out there like this one. It's almost like a family forum. The people you see that post questions and respond to, we know who you are. Maybe not personally but we are a smaller group with a large name.

looks like they just like to round things off rather than be precise.

there's a misunderstanding here. You, the original poster, are referring to Surface area. phi is referring to just the diameter. Here is a list of Europe vs America- 4/0 107.16mm2 3/0 84.97mm2 2/0 67.40mm2 1/0 53.46mm2 4 21.14mm2 8 8.36mm2 I would suggest 4awg or 20-21mm2 wire. It has a rating of 60A fusing so 4awg\20mm2 is the preferred choice.

it's a mix of the box size and power available. most companies suggest around 16sqin per cube so in your case, optimal is 144". Sure you can go lower than that, 120 is fine, but if u are running an enormous amount of power, larger port would be required.

Kinda. My aq2200d only drew a max of 94 amps because of high rise and my sundown maxed around 60A... so for a 290A total fuse rating, i could have gotten away with 150A easily.

Heck no, i've had these subs for a full week now and i havent taken the plastic off of them yet because of all the cuttin, gluin and sealin i've been doin. Well, i take that back. I had to take the plastic off of one so i could test fit it in the baffle one day but i immediately wrapped it back up. I want these things to be nice and new when i am finally ready to mount them.

Ok, i got the speaker wire problem solved. I kept goin through drill bits by the 1\32" til i found one that was just the right size to have to physically force the wire through the hole. So, i will be passing the wire straight through the back of the box then sealing it off on both sides so no resistance on that part. Next, i just got done running sealant over everything. I'm gonna let it dry through tomorrow. It's suppose to be raining here all week but on and off... If i find time tomorrow where it isn't raining, i may have some more updated pics... If not, whenever it stops raining is when i'll progress further. The box is almost done guys. Once it's done, i just gotta drill out all the holes for the wire, run them, mount the subs, then move onto the rear where i must think of a design in the back for all the amps n batts and build that next. After that, gotta seal off the baffle from the rest of the car and then.... I gotta run the interior lights for the fluorescent paint and for the amps. Not much farther.. Here is a pic of the wire i'll be using as speaker wire. That's 3\4" all-thread by the way-

I always do the big 2 instead of the Big 3... I just run larger power wire from alt to batt and add as many 1/0 or whatever the largest size wire u can get to fit for the ground running off the starting battery as possible. In my car, i upgraded my alt so it was mandatory but this is how i have mine- 2/0 from alt to starting battery. 2 2/0s from ground (starting battery) to car frame. 3/0 from starting battery to rear battery bank(u dont have one of these at the moment but in case u do, keep following me) All power wire running off of batts to amps are also 2/0. I have the rear battery bank grounded with 5 2/0 cables. You see, as many grounds as u can get, the better\safer. How much would it cost to do the big 2? First question u must ask yourself is, do you have a vice? If u do not have a vice, then it will be near impossible to properly crimp those $0.99 1/0 ring terminals. Instead, you would have to opt to get the allen wrench kind which are about $8 per terminal! ouch. So, crimping terminals and wire- You would need ~ 4 terminals, 2 for alt, 2 for grounding starting battery. Crimp- $4, allen wrench- $32 Wire - ~ $33 If u buy it all from Knukonceptz after shipping- under $50 if getting crimped, around $75 if getting the other kind.

coil is a coil is a coil. Wire batts in parallel and their resistance splits in half too.

yes

an HDC312 is 48.5 lbs if u use proper bracing on the baffle, weight shouldnt be a problem.

engine noise can easily be seen as how it is being grounded. I would swap out rcas but before you do, i would see who the culprit is... It may not be every single set. Just 1 set can spoil the whole bunch.

it took me about 10 hrs after the operation before i felt like eating again. It took about 36-48hrs to actually feel like walkin around the house and doin normal things. It took 4-5 days after operation before i could feel normal working since the pain and pain pills were affecting me. It took about 2 weeks before the hole in my mouth healed so food could finally quit getting stuck down there.

those subs can handle more than that. Benhemp used to have a strapped pair of sundown 3000ds @ 0.5 ohm on a single SPL12 and it be fine with it.

i dont know anything about them having problems shuttin off, lol, that's a new one. Now, overheating- they told me just like with any alt, never put the alternator in a scenario where it has to be wide open for long periods of time. These types of high powered alternators do not have extensive magical cooling systems like our cars have... radiators, probably because it would be too big to fit in a vehicle. For music, they say since music is dynamic, output changes rapidly and doesnt cause that type of problem but if u were charging batts with a high output alt wide open, that's bad. Alts are suppose to be used to KEEP batts charged, not to charge them. Also, if u got a 250A alt, dont try to run a 15,000w stereo system when u know for music, it's gonna more than likely pull more than 250A constantly which would burn it up again. Letting the alt run while the car is moving is the best cooling you can do. Letting the car sit there shile u got it revved for long periods of time will heat the engine bay up like crazy.

well what happened was when i designed this setup in AutoCAD, it was suppose to be for 28" deep. At the time, it "appeared" that i had room to extend it to 30" deep but i never drew it out on AutoCAD, i just assumed it. Well, i had went ahead and cut all the pieces assuming that 30" deep would work... well it didnt. I couldnt shut the hatchdoor, hehe. So, after 2 days worth of trimming and modifying the underside of the design, i am finally able to get it to fit in the car with the door shut... The design is 1\8" of an inch from touching the rear hatch glass. I'm gonna be taking some luxury liner pro and gluing it onto the back of the wall so the glass has something nice, soft but firm to rest on if any vibrations come off of that back side. I dont know if u read but i am gonna me making my own copper all-thread rods soon if i dont find any copper bolts in town. I'm gonne be stoppin by some electric shops tomorrow and tuesday to see if i can find copper everything... preferably pure silver but i doubt i'll get that lucky.

ok, i got a tap n dye set so i'm thinkin bout just buyin this copper rod as mentioned before and threading the outside, like all-thread. i'm gonna stop by 3 different electrical shops this week and try to find some pure copper nuts and washers(optional). i'm also gonna be lookin for pure copper ring terminals but if not, i'll just get the gold plated kind. and for other poster- probes resistance- 0.25-0.28 brass resistance- 0.40-0.46 resistance in brass bolts- 0.15-0.18 in my book- terrible. i'm hopin using copper all-thread and nuts should give lower resistance than brass bolts and steel nuts.