shizzzon

under the amp is pointless, just mount them on the feet of the amp. I mounted 2 amps on a box i had runnin 4400w of power for a year and no problems... sold both amps and they still work fine. I can do 4 for $6, 6 for $8 or 8 for $10. That is shipped prices. Your whereabouts do not matter as USPS could care less, When u are about to run your screw threw the amp's feet, run a screw through these first so u already have a hole to go through. If you don't they'll be turning the entire time you are trying to fasten the screw down and you don't want that. Remember to predrill your hole too.

I use luxury liner pro from www.secondskinaudio.com as sound suppression that i mount underneath all feet of my equipment to ensure nothing i mount might get damaged due to vibrations. I use it on all my amps, fuse blocks, fans and inverter. It is pretty expensive if u try to buy a small amount of it but if u wanted to, i could sell u some cut pieces already. This is what i use for my amp feet- I cut them in 1.5" long x 1" wide. One for every mounting position. All amps i've seen have 4 mounting places, one in each corner. If you want any of these, pm me and i'll sell u some for cheap and mail em to ya USPS.

dont get the wardens if u plan on playing music with that tuning.

i use a 30A relay off my HU's turn on wire. From there, it runs to a multi distro block which i connect all my accessories to.

how much extra cabin gain should i expect to see once the wall is sealed on average? When i had my 2 12s in the rear facing forward and ported to the side, i had a 21db cabin gain. Now, with this box, non sealed.. amp's not gain matched yet and no car mods to help the score, i am getting a 10.6db cabin gain right now. Just curious how much i should expect.

snoopdan uses pink panther insulation to seal around his box so it acts like a wall in his cherokee. I just got done building my box in my scion tc with 4 15s and i need to seal around it so it can act like a wall. I was gonna use pink panther but have 2nd thoughts because it states that it's purely a thermal barrier, not acoustic barrier. Is there any methods u guys use or can persuade me with facts as to continue to go with pink panther insulation or is there a better method?

i've got 2 8.5" crossflow fans. I'm not gonna hook em up until i get all my lights installed. These wires are so small, i'm just gonna wait til i get everything so i can join them all together. my 18awg ring terminals are too large for these wires, it's ridiculous.

ok, pic a little dark but here is the back of the car now. There is still lots of lights that are gonna be powered back there but this is the layout- I just took it out with phi to listen to a few songs... Hehe, i think i scared him a couple times... it's VERY LOUD... still clip-free, non-sealed and amp's not gain matched yet.,, and tuned to 54hz! Not a lot of songs i can play tuned to 54hz but i can still drop down to around 37hz before i start unloading. Pretty good, almost 20hz below tuning. I will start building test ports for the rest of the month to start testing different designs.

I can't get a lot of info and no reviews for this pro audio speaker i guess because it's new... I currently have a sundown 100.4 and a set of ID components rated for 100wrms per side. I want to bridge my components to the sundown 100.4 but i'm sure it will kill them due to too much power.. Question is- If i purchase these pyle pro PNDW6 6.5s, where do i look at replacing my current crossover with a new one so i dont burn it up due to too much power. I looked on partsexpress but it looks like u have to finish building them, i'm looking for already built ones.

i dont know if i'm right but if i am, then yea. I dont use remote bass boost knobs so i'm guessing.

i think bass boost knobs and gain knobs work different. Bass boost knobs are not dependent on what is set at the amp, therefore u can get full effect out of the remote knob if wanted. Gain knobs are solely dependent on the amp's settings. Whatever the amp's gain is set at, the gain knob cannot surpass this.

i run 8awg in my terminals. I would not recommend trying to parallel the connections at the terminals though... not with 8awg, lol. Instead, like me, you can run wire from each terminal + and - to an area where u can then do your parallel wiring and use butt connectors.

Your box is 7.45 cubes NET as long as you keep the subs inverted. If you install subs normally, it will be around 7 cubes NET. The port is 5" tall but the back where the port starts in the box, it is 5.5". I went ahead and assumed the box would pick this up as part of the port. Also, since it's slotted, we'll take another 2.5" of acoustical length inside the box for additional port length which should make your box tuned to- 24.5hz, that's crazy low. If you drop subs in normally, it would be tuned to approximately - 25.3hz. Is this for home theater, lol?

ok i'll have specs in just a few.

but what i'm sayin is u say u have a 45 in the port... and the port length u gave makes me think the port bends in the back and continues along the height of the box... I need to know if this is true or not.

i think u should do something basic first.. and it's free, Yay!! hehe. When sitting at idle with stereo OFF, measure voltage at your starting battery. Now measure voltage at the power\ground terminals on the amp. Tell us what the voltage difference is.

Well, i burped a 151.2 at 58hz for several seconds with the sunroof flipped out and had someone else watch what it was doing. Apparently, the glass itself is not to worry. Therefore, breakproof laminate sheeting is probably not necessary. What IS the problem is the arm that holds the front glass... Since this arm rides on a track and doesn't lock into place when open, it can easily move by just pressing down on the arm and that is what causes the violent-like shaking of the glass. if u keep your car sealed, it wont flex as much if that's an option.

take a sub out so u can finish measuring the port.sounds like it turns in the box.ur bow is 10.13 cubes GROSS, not NET.i'm estimating box to be under 8 cubes total so dont know til i get rest of port length

now since you've drilled a hole, regardless if it's sealed or not, you should always use silicone to prevent the metal from rusting.

just got done doing voltage drop testing with different battery configurations. With NO battery in the rear off of 1 AQ3500d, voltage falls below 12.5v(exact unknown because audio is set to shutoff when this happens). Db =147.94 with 2 15s. With 2 D5100s = 120aH off of 2 AQ3500ds and 4 15s, voltage started at 14.2v and immediately dropped to 13.4v then eventually worked it's way down to 12.0v even after a 7 sec burp. Db= not tested With 1 D3100 and 1 D5100 off of 2 AQ3500ds and 4 15s, voltage started at 13.6v and eventually worked it's way down to 12.5v after a 7sec burp. Db=151.21. So, i went from a 147.94 with 1 AQ3500d, 2 15s and no batts to a 151.21 with 2 AQ3500ds, 4 15s and 177aH worth of batts. Keep in mind, the wall is NOT sealed, no car modifications for better score has been attempted yet, no port tuning, amps not 100% gain matched, and most importantly... 100% Clip-free signal! Maximum current draw for these tests- 228A so there is some high rise for that frequency i used.

that can also be good news.less space = less spending + less equipment requirement to pressurize volume .

with what u wanna run, i'd look into the following- Drop the weight of your subs for one. Those subs i believe weigh over 50lbs a piece. Get some 12s if u set on 4 of them that weigh in the low to mid 30s at most. Building the box out of 34" birch is hella expensive, approx $100 for wood and will only save you 20% of the weight. So, if ur 8cuft box was gonna be 150lbs, birch would make it 120lbs... not that much noticeable. Batts- there is no light batt with large aH... so u have to compensate. recommended to reduce your amplifier power so you do not need as many batts.

there won't be a hole, there will be grommets. There is ALWAYS the rubber boot WAY up underneath the driver floorboard. Rubber boots need to be cut from both sides and is a Biotch to pass large cable through. You can always go to lowes and purchase or special order Alflex\Southwire flexible conduit and run your power line through this underneath the car and up through the back.

this is why i base my setups on weight limitations on my car. Coil overs for the rear for a car are about $1500 installed. Airride is $3000-6000 installed. You must remember, raising the car alone does not increase the weight capacity. Now, installing airride will give u about an almost unlimited weight capacity but is the most expensive. My car has a 800lb limit. I try to stay no higher than 450lbs.

yea, get a DMM set your stereo to start playing and walk to your battery and watch the meter... Also, since you use a bandpass enclosure, if there is something wrong with your sub(s) or box itself, it will be almost impossible to troubleshoot unless you open the box up and inspect for damage. Bandpass boxes lots of times audibly hide problematic clipping and design faults so it's hard to tell when damage is being done until it's already happened.