shizzzon

the AQs have a 3" Xmech value, that's why you can tune high and still retain the low end. For the utmost all around loud design for the 18, build 6 cubes NET tuned to 40hz. I'll be honest, 40hz wont go earth shaking low, it'll audibly roll off around 32-33hz. 38hz tuning is great for loud street beating. 35hz is the lowest recommended for low end street beating. Any lower and you start sacrificing 50hz+ range.

i would go AQs because they are cheaper than most subs in it's class, immediate recone requests and i know their potential. I've messed with AQs for few yrs now, i don't own their subs right now because i am on a different Team now but if i had no weight limit issue, i would still be using them.

u can but it's gonna almost be like runnin free air... that and a HUGE group delay... almost everything that would come out of that box would sound "muddy" as if all the bass notes were soft and blended with each other. I would seriously make it smaller or buy another one.

well, you would normally lower power requirements when a larger box is built and this is strictly due to mechanical reasons. If the mechanical limit didn't come into effect, then you could still run 5000w... well u still can depending on what this install is for. If this is for daily driving ONLY, then i would recommend(if u already have the amp), then i would wire the sub in series and be done with it. If this is for both music and comp, i would extend all runs of terminal wire out of the box so u can wire in parallel or series whenever u need to. If using for comp, make interchangeable port and keep internal volume as large as possible, tune port very close if not actually at your peak note to restrict mechanical movement. If you do not already have an amp and it's only for music, then drop power like said above or add another sub.

Anybody compete here that needs custom tones? IE - precise tones, for example, 52.175hz vs 52hz or 52.621hz vs 53hz? IE - do u have a lot of power in your car... too much to burp for 30sec straight but can't or do not want to extend your head unit out of the car to adjust volume levels? I can setup custom tones so the audio tracks will do it for you. Have your peak tone gradually come in via fade and blast a burp for any specific duration of your choosing then quickly fade out to a low level to prevent heat buildup or damage. Let me know.

Intended for Sound Pressure League vehicles that have non-permanent modifications behind the B-pillars that are designed to maximize sound pressure level. Includes vehicles with woofer walls. Vehicles are still capable of being daily drivers. That's what it says, woofer walls fal under that category as long as it can still be a daily driver which it is.

Gots another vid. My buddy at work actin goofy, lol. He usually holds his ears when he's in my car but i talked him into not so this is some of the pain associated with listening to Bone Crusher in my car.

so i DO have hope! Someone on here told me if i went to MECA with my wall i'd me forced to be in minimum of MX1. I wanted modified 3 or 4 and it looks like i still got a chance, After i seal my wall up this week, starting next week til the end of august, if u got that long, i'll be testing with some other local teams in my area in regards to gettin this setup hella-loud so it will benefit both of us with walls. PM me if we lose contact in the future.

Calm down? u got some nerve, I'm gonna come over there... ##$@^%^*%^*^&( Oh wait... this isn't ca.com I wasn't yelling, that's just me, strict humor to the point.

There is too much damn kerfin goin on lately. Don't flare me up!

well, i'm only doin a 152.19 with 4 15s and 7kw of amps... i believe i'm lackin. I would add though that i'm gettin less than 1300w of power out of each 3500w amp so that might make up some of the reason but i'm still not no where near done workin on it yet. Back on topic- Dan Rydewski does over 154dbs with 2 18s and a 5000w amp at 36hz so u got a ways... He has his port on the driver side, port area unknown but nothing astronomical. He has his entire enclosure rhinolined inside and out as well.

i'm not implying you are using bad quality rcas, just possible they have become damaged. It's also possible that the head unit is at fault. Try ANY rcas, i dont care if they are for home audio use. Just run a set and see what happens.

do not invest money in a line driver for your problem. Both amps have the same input sensitivity. If you have the other amp still, hook it back up and see if problem still exists or not. cheap alternative is to replace rcas. because the noise gets quieter the more the gain is turned down means you have unwanted noise seeping through the rcas. Focus on that only and nothing else.

what class? MX1 or 2?

And a stripper too? You add that too and u definitely gain some Dem Boobz

ok, gots some more updates- my last burp was a 151.2 in the kick non clipped... New change- i got the amp's gain matched now. New reading in the kick- 151.7db! I went up 0.5 db. I then decided to clip the hell out of the subs... I then reached 152.19db! I went up another 0.5db. Again, i should be breakin 153s on the Tlab mic or very close if u have read my meter comparison to the TLab mic. The next thing i gotta do is seal the wall off and find my official peak tone.. I dont know if i'm gonna gain 3dbs by just doin that but we'll see. I'd also like to add that i currently have hellacious rise in my box... None of the subs have yet to emit a stinch from severe clipping and i'm only metering around 130A current draw from each amp at this tone i'm burping at... so i still have tons of reserve power to unleash if i wanted to. I "can" wire these done to 0.225 ohms to each AQ3500d if i wanted to.. but there's no advantage of me doin that as of right now due to what class i wanna compete in MECA... Also, we put the meter at the headrest and it gave off a very odd funky reading of only 143x dbs... i know what 143s sound like and what 150s do now and at the headrest... it bloody hurts literally so there's somethin wrong there. Also, i gots another video for u guys- I found me a car audio "fan" who loves bass so i got his reaction as well-

for low cost, u gonna have to do a wall then to reduce the volume. Tune to the high 20s, low 30s with as much power as ur budget allows. You really need to be breakin 150s tuned low to get decent movement.

OK, ALL tones and sweeps are done. BEFORE DOWNLOADING, PLEASE READ BELOW! A lot of these audio tracks have likely potential to damage your audio setup. I take no responsibility in the misuse of these tracks nor the neglect that people have been accused of how they setup their own equipment. ALL tracks are properly made, clip free and will not cause system failure as long as your equipment has been properly setup and you know exactly why you choose which tracks to play. Sine Wave compilation - Recorded at 0db. DO NOT INDUCE CLIPPING ON YOUR AMPLIFIERS WHILE PLAYING THESE TRACKS unless using for short bursts such as competition. Square Wave compilation - Recorded at 0db. DO NOT INDUCE CLIPPING ON YOUR AMPLIFIERS WHILE PLAYING THESE TRACKS PERIOD! EXTREME ABUSE CAN BE CAUSED FROM THESE TRACKS. VERY SHORT BURSTS FROM THESE TRACKS ONLY! Sweep Compilation - Recorded at -3db. These tracks are safe to play on everyday setups. Again, though, try not to clip your amps when playing these sweeps as there is no advantage. These are testing tracks and should be played properly. Square wave information- There will be abnormal "noise" when a square wave is played. This is normal. The frequencies besides the centered one in the track are outputting in the midrange from 150hz and higher typically. It is heavily important if you choose to use these in competition that you do not clip your front stage when playing these tracks. The amplitude in the midrange is about -4 - -6db but if you plan to clip these square waves, you could damage your front stage. A good idea would be to unplug your front stage when burping these square waves. If the mid frequencies are blending in with the centered frequency from the subwoofer(s) then your LPF is set too high and needs to be lowered before attempting to burp with these tracks. To download, you MUST download ALL parts of a compilation. Sine waves have 6 rar parts. Square waves have 4 rar parts. Sweeps have 2 rar parts. Use Winrar to extract once all parts have been downloaded. I hope this new package does everyone some good. Happy Tuning

that is a bass boost. On your headunit, whatever you set the frequency to, if u "add" anythign above 0, that frequency will be centered upon so by boosting it, surrounding frequencies around it will also go up. Think of the hyphens below as a frequency range between 20-100hz ---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Now boost 50hz by +5 and it will look like this- (periods mean nothing, just look at the hyphens) ...............................................-----......................................................... ..........................................------------..................................................... ......................................------------------.................................................. ...............................-----------------------------............................................ ................-------------------------------------------------------.......................... ----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- You shouldnt need to use this because it will not allow your response to be flat and that's what you want. By peaking your response will likely induce clipping and clipping can over time and even during very short periods(seconds) cause a speaker to fail due to overheating, over current, over excursion, etc...

that's a low pass filter. What you set it to will prohibit frequencies above it to play as loud. It will gradually "rolloff". So, you will need to set it to around 80hz. Anything higher exhibits unusual sound as subs aren't really meant to play in this range while already playing the substage. Not only that, but in this range, it also starts forcing your amps to draw large amounts of current to produce those higher frequencies that are already not as audible as 30-60hz normally is and puts an unnecessary load on your electrical system.

OK, pics as promised! yay! hehe. Here is a pic of the wall(once it's sealed) at night - Here is a small pic of the outside of the car with some lights goin on- Now, before i show you the other 2 LED pics, here is a pic of what the hatch area looks like during the day time- OK, now since u see where everything is placed, this is what it looks like at night-

Ascendant audio recommends 1.5 - 2.5 CF ported for a 12" & 1.5-3.0 CF Sealed for a 15". Both of these recommendations seem small to me but I guess they just like small enclosures. Does your response still apply? I didnt know they recommended that low.. Still yet, fact is, even if u compare 1.5 to 2.5, a 1.5 box would take longer to reach it's peak.... which would act somewhat like a sealed box. Like KU40 said, the 12 would most likely be louder on a meter because it would have to peak sometime yet the sealed box would be more consistent and more ideal for the space at hand.

anything 1200w or less and they will sound great. anything abover 1200w and under ~2400w, they will be brute force loud and can use the copper coil version. Anything over that and under 4,000w, get aluminum coil. These subs are geared to be tuned high and still retain the low end due to their high excursion capabilities. Tuning to 35hz is the lowest AQ recommends. 38-40hz is normally recommended.

4-5 cubes per 15 sounds a little high comparing the box recommendations to the 187 10 and 12. I'd say 3 cubes would be fine per 15, if u had room for 4 cubes net per than do it... Most subs i see that are 12" like to be in around 2.5 cubes or a hair under... IA suggests not to go over 2 which is good on space. Most 15s i see like 4 cubes so going by the 12s, i'd say 3-3.5 cubes NET should be the hot spot for their 15s.

the 15 because you would be starving the 12 for airspace. When putting a sub into a tiny ported enclosure, it somewhat responds like a sealed enclosure. Whatever the box is tuned to, it won't peak for several frequencies above it's tuning instead of just a couple. The smaller the box, the longer it takes to peak...