shizzzon

you know how lots of subs out there tend to loose their smooth sound tonality when you start reaching loud limits? Are you one of those guys who would rather sacrifice the maximum loud potential for consistent smooth sounding bass or do you want your bass to get louder and louder and louder regardless of what it starts to sounds like once you are really jammin? The BL\Lvl4-basic is a good comparison to each other. The Q is your smooth sounding sub.

people always say that's the only purpose for them but it is NOT. The MAIN purpose of a solenoid is to prevent the front battery equalizing with the rear battery bank when not in use. My setup is a good example- My starting battery is 3yrs old and floats at 12.8v, made by Panasonic My rear battery bank is 1yr old and floats at 13.1v made by Powermaster Two totally different specs that you do not want joined together all the time. This is what causes premature battery failure. Keep them separated when not in use and they will have the longest life expectancy.

while i do know this, i cannot do this as i just had enough room to port 4 15s in a wall and the port can only fit in the center of the car. However, i purposely built the wall few inches behind the B pillar so i can partially extend the port out of the box and angle it in any direction i so choose for testing so i can attempt to "make up" what i couldn't prevent.

so u wanna do 155 without a wall? You are gonna have to wire both 18s in parallel down to 0.25ohm but before u do, u must test impedance rise and make sure that the note to burp at is gonna rise over 1 ohm before paralleling that low. You are not only gonna have to sound deaden everything but also spray foam in all the sides as well to prevent flexing... Seal all factory seals around car. This includes all glass, doors, etc... When i say seal, this can be temporary only for comp type of seal but it must be done. You will need a human bracing team. build ur box using multiple runs in all directions with 3\4" allthread. Weld all points to the center of the box. Seal off your vehicle as much as possible to prevent unwanted volume being displaced inside.

this type of relay is used to prevent the front and rear batts equalizing with each other when they are not in use, IE car off just sittin there... I use a separate 30A relay on the HU's remote turn on wire to control over 50ft of LEDs and crossflow fans throughout the car. That's something different... When wiring the solenoids- Power in and power out is obvious.. use the largest possible. Ignition and ground wires are small. I used 16awg wire for mine. And to add to that- These solenoids are not specific on what terminal is what to a degree.. You have 2 large posts and 2 small posts. The 2 LARGE posts are power inpower out. It doesn't matter which one you use for in or out and i'll get to that in a minute. The 2 SMALL posts are ignitionground. Again, it doesn't matter which you use for 12v ignition or ground. Just choose one. Whichever is ground, the other must be ignition. The reason why it doesnt matter which is power in or out is because when the solenoids are switched on via the key on ur car, the solenoid connects both large posts together so power can flow through both posts.

Oh, now i gotcha- The "ignition wire" is exactly what it is... ignition wire. Splice this wire into the same 12v ignition wire that is in your radio's wire harness. I don't know if it's a bad idea but i never suggest grounding solenoids to the rear battery bank's terminal. I always suggest grounding the solenoids directly to car. Oh... and now look what u guys have done... U got all kinds of people readin this.. Oznium might be gettin all kinds of Relay orders...

www.oznium.com Like i've told someone before, be VERY careful going to that site. Many others have been abducted by the array of product they sell and u may become addicted worse than anything possible... Keep your eyes open at your own risk.. I dont care if my diagrams are ugly... ugly's what gets u those high SPL numbers... The Solenoid(relay) is hooked up FROM your starting battery's in line fuse and TO a fuse(within 18" of rear battery bank) that will protect the rear battery bank. It's on the diagram... Maybe i'm just used to wiring things but it's right there.

i always suggest running as many grounds as possible! the more the better, trust me! I have 14.8v sitting in the rear of my car and multi runs of 2/0 ground wire.

here u go-

no, the solenoid is rated for your charging current running through that line... Hence, u need either dual 200s or a single 500A. dual 200s are WAY cheaper though. Your diagram is still way off, quit using that diagram. Let me make one.

i dont blame ya not using an isolator but a solenoid is a wise idea though...you just wire ur rear batts in parallel.no fuse goes between the batts, just before the bank and before each amp.

u use 300A fusing between front and rear batts due to charging current.roughly 100% of all discharge capacity will come from rear batts so current through the main line should only be from the alternator

u fuse as rated for your amps! So fuse protect for amp #1, use 150A ANL fuse. Fuse protect for amp #2, use 500A ANL fuse. Your rockford amp requests a 500A fuse? That sounds too high for a 4000w amp... IF that's true, then the amp should have dual 1/0 inputs... otherwise, i don't trust it's design.

yes.. it's that simple. Just stick to the 8:1 rule of thumb. Dont make a 20x2 port.. that's 10:1, u see?

even if it isn't i'd still do 6 cubes NET.

take your car to a performance shop or to an alternator specialist... A normal mechanic usually won't know much as they don't specialize in anything particular. When getting a new alternator, i dont care if it's just a replacement, always replace the belt. In terms of a high output, lots of times u gotta switch over to serpentine. this is where a shop will assist in getting the right size belt to work for the alt and so on. Mechman makes alts for lots of imports if u are having a hard time finding one for your car. I will say though, for a 1200w amp to shut down your car... there is something wrong with your electrical system or configuration. To cause that much torque\horsepower loss that it kills the car is wrong... I'm not a mechanic but u may need to see if it's electrical or mechanical the problem u r having.

yea i did but look at how much they are for 200A continuous... thats if u can even find one that powerful.

This is what u do- Front battery--(18" away FUSE with 300A fuse)----------------------Dual 200A solenoids or single 500A solenoid(optional)-------------------------Fuse with 300A(within 18" of rear battery 1)---Rear Battery #1--Rear Battery #2. From each rear battery, run the power wire from batt to amp. Fuse those lines within 18" of battery.

This is what u do- Front battery--(18" away FUSE with 300A fuse)----------------------Dual 200A solenoids or single 500A solenoid(optional)-------------------------Fuse(within 18" of rear battery 1)---Rear Battery #1--Rear Battery #2. From each rear battery, run the power wire from batt to amp. Fuse this line within 18" of battery.

PS- if u lookin for over 2,000w constant output power.... go Aluminum Coil! Otherwise... for constant use with that power, the copper coils will eventually just give up and start heating up.

i dont know how much power u plan on running but i can tell u that 1 18 vs 2 15s is a 50-50 chance and all comes down to install. The 15s will rival an 18 the higher the ratio such as 4 15s vs 2 18s or 8 15s vs 4 18s and so on as long as the install is not a problem. If u got plenty of room for the 18 and gots the power for whatever u are lookin for, i'd go single 18.

for future reference- If u have to build a box in the vehicle and you can't screw adjacent panels together, try the following- Even using Titebond, it NEEDS some sort of bonding pressure for several minutes while the glue cures. I used 6" L brackets every 18" then immediately ran Liquid Nails thick beaded along all joined corners to ensure everything is being bonded together and tightly. After everything cures, run back over with Silicone II. If u have to tear the box down because of the spare tire, let me know. I will need VERY specific dimensions for your trunk so i can model it in AutoCAD and give u a design to build that would incorporate your tire in the car still. I love math

for a 3000w amp, anything less than 1/0 is retarded! I suggest using 1/0 for any real amplifier over 1200w if it can fit for the simple fact that you are not only trying to use sufficient size to prevent a fire but also to prevent as much voltage drop as possible. I'm not saying this to you but to everyone who reads this- NEVER try to save money by purchasing smaller wire just because it will probably just work... Always try to use the largest gauge that will fit in the terminal. It's almost impossible to go overkill on wire.

i started masking off my upholstery and wiring in my car in preparations to spray triple expanding foam around the box to seal it off and form the wall. It looks as though it may take me til this friday before i actually start sealing it because of all the masking that has to eb done and setting up barriers to prevent it from expanding into areas that it doesn't need to go! I did get just over half of all the masking done today. I should the rest of it done by thursday night, then setting up the barriers friday afternoon. I'll probably start the sealing procedure Saturday morning and just continue throughout the whole day. I am not a pessimist but i will not be surprised if it isn't 100% sealed by saturday night. I'll be testing it's sealing properties once everything is cured but there is so many contours and crevaces in my car that it's ridiculous. Oh, and once the wall IS sealed... i'll be doing port testing for about 3-4 weeks so there won't be any remarkable updates for a while as this will be a time frame where testing will commence and lots and lots of information will be assessed for ALL of the ports that will be built for SPL, Bassrace, Driveby, Daily driving and Port Wars.

for a 15 is 4-4.5 NET per sub. 4 is the more ideal for best performance. For copper coil- ~1200w for keeping it mainly in the xmax range for good sounds. ~1201-1800w for moderate clipping levels. ~1801-2400w for light clipping levels and for short durations such as a minute at a time. ~2401w+ no clipping and for short durations such as a minute at a time. Aluminum coil- up to 3,500w with light clipping. ~4,000w no clipping and for short durations. Make sure you give the sub approx 2-4 weeks of break in time to properly allow all the spider layers to loosen up equally to obtain the best potential possible.