shizzzon

the 12s shouldnt be louder for a couple of reasons. One, the only safe way to wire 3 12s is to 1.33 ohms and that right there will cut their receiving power down quite a bit. Second, you have a better shot of properly building a box for 4 10s at 1cuft per sub than you do for 3 12s at 4.5cuft per sub + sub and port displacement.

a whole sheet? What is ur box dimensions

Thank you for giving me specs because i want to show you something- For 4 10s- That is a pic for 4 10s and a port. The port is 96.25 sq in". This just shows how large of space you have to possible build a port.. meaning you have plenty of space. For internal dimensions of 42x17x13 using double baffle, the GROSS volume is - 3.91 cubes which isn't enough. Increase depth to 19" minimum, 20-22" for best perfection. 20-22" would allow a port to take up to 2cuft of space if necessary which is almost overkill. So, you have the room.

just because you may know your peak, doesnt mean just build it to peak there... I'm assuming he did find his peak by using a sealed box and not a ported one so let me begin. Once you know your peak, you then start building multiple ports with slightly different tuning but totally different port areas and angles. So, let's say he officially does peak at 52hz without a doubt. Ports would generally be made to peak around 47-55hz and have different port areas, different firing patterns, different materials(if possible), etc... For my purpose, i am gonna be competing in SPL, bassrace, driveby and port wars... I will need a different port design for each division because each division will peak differently. It's gonna take me a long time to test all different ports to properly suffice for each competition. My wall uses a removable port so it's easy so pop another in without tearin the whole wall down. I'm currently in the process fo sealing my wall right now. waitin for the 4th can of foam to cure.. got LOTs of cans left before it completely seals.

it's time to start doing hard bracing. Walk around the vehicle and find anything flexing or leaking air. Seal everything and prevent anything from flexing. Did u ever do port testing before u permanently built your box? I'm about to start doing port testing on mine soon.. it takes about a month or so to test. resin the inside of the box over and over and over.... The slicker the surface, the faster air can move.

the power u wanna supply is the reason why i chose these subs. Power isn't everything, remember that. Also, of completely horizontal, most 10s are 11" wide so u would need 44" minimum. If you do not have that, give me the MAX width and height u can use so i can draw the design out in CAD and see if i can get u the specs to properly make them fit.

i think u mean solenoid as an isolator will drop a volt by the time it reaches the rear batts. Also, alternator is NOT for charging batts but rather to keep them charged! Try to use an alternator to charge a dead battery or a bank of batts that have been discharged pretty good... the alt will likely overheat from running wide open. A solenoid will prevent equalization of batteries when car is off. This prevents premature failure. Now, if all the batts in your ride are same make and series line, then solenoids are optional but since they are so cheap, i always use them.

if u are still set on changing out your setup, how about 4 10s? Pioneer Premier TS-W1007D2 Those go for about $50 on sonicelectronix's site a piece so should save some money and pack a good punch. They go down to 18hz with ease so nothin bad about that.

do not assume anything else before doing that first what i said above. It could also be that ur rear batteries are not full charged or you have a dead cell, etc.. In any case, if it was one of these reasons, the alternator is running wide open and outputting so much current to the stereo system that it can't supply power to the headlights. I do not really think this is the reason though because if it were true, your voltage reading would actually be in the low 13s...

disconnect the starting battery from the rest of the batts and take it auto zone and put it on their battery tester. Do not have them come out and test it, physically take the battery out and give it to them. They have a machine in the building that tests batts. The CA rating at 68F is what they will need to test your starting battery. If it fails... you need a new starting battery.

because they know it's something of value to take pride in. Just like he said some elderly lady's car got a stripe of gray down it... there isn't any custom work done to the car so doing what they did was their 1st brainstormed thought.

if u can use tones i nwhatever comp u enter, go to my own test tone link in my sig and download the square wave tones. These will give the most potential out of just a track. All tones i make are generated clip-free, just be careful when using square waves.. they are VERY powerful.

with that many people being victims, they bound to catch em if they try that is.

it sounds like u are out of ideas. It's time to build a new box. I dont know the specifics for the "tunnel box" but if i talk to one of the guys soon, i'll let u know what they say.

from experience with a local competing team i know, almost everybody runs SUVs... From what i gather, vs yours, the entire box design is lacking. First find your peak note in the vehicle, after that, there is one of 2 box designs that usually yield high numbers. 1 - subs up, port back approx 3" from back door. 2 - subs up built in a tunnel chamber box width-wise with HUMUNGOUS aero port firing to the passenger side.. external port also, not internal. these guys are doin over 150 with ease so u got plenty of potential. I would try to ditch your batteries though and go with some XS powermasters or some Batcap 2k or 3ks.

LOL, this is funny... I've used Triple Expanding foam before but not to fill voids as large as sealing a wall... I'm sealing this wall 2 ft DEEP! and uh.... i just got done using 2 cans of this stuff and it JUST now prohibited sunlight from coming through the top of the wall... I still have a 1ft more of depth on the top and about 2 more ft on both sides that is 2.5 ft high on both sides... so yea i'm probably gonna need about a pallet more, lol.

yep thats the one

just wanted to let u guys know i'm about to seal the car... I got all my upholstery protected from the foam in case i ever want to rip the wall out. I gotta start setting all my boundaries in the car then i'll start the sealing process. It should be done either today or tomorrow. Once it's sealed properly... then i'll commence port tuning, but i also gotta see how much i gain my sealing too!

That is a competition Midrange woofer, not really a subwoofer. It excels greatly for a midrange but is rated at 500wrms for it's recommended frequency response range which only begins at 40hz. Try droppin this thing in the low 30s or high 20s and your power rating will drop a lot more.

u keep askin questions here and you will graduate from SSA-Express by the end of the month,

since u have direct connect, your ipod is not loosing it's low end because the Ipod is not processing the song itself if that's how u have it wired... The signal cable must be wired into the charging port only for it to work. Well, check subsonic filter then and see what's up. MP3 has great quality for it's file size. I tend to not go below 192, all my test tones i make vary between 224-320. Windows Media and MPEG are backwards when compared to each other. Windows media has terrible compressed audio quality to file size but outstanding quality video to file size. MPEG has outstanding audio quality to file size but terrible quality video to file size. Before High Def became the "normal", XviD was probably my choice for compressible video quality where space wasn't really an issue, but if space were an issue, Windows Media reigned in that field. Now since HD is out, x264 codec is the only compressible HD codec out there that is worth using. It's like the Xvid of HD. Sure your video is gonna be large but that's what HD is, LARGE. Not too large and still retains awesome quality.

not necessary. You could even get away with 0.5" Birch or MDF and simple bracing.

oh yes definitely try cds. I've heard of running ipods through line out causes drop in the low end. I run an ipod but through an Alpine head unit. Alpine HU's usually have direct-connect feature on them so the Ipod is used as a storage device rather than an aux audio device so the music passes through the HU as DATA rather than streamign music so the Ipod has absolutely no control over the playback of any song played. So.. first try cds then make sure your subsonic filter is turned ALL the way down. If it wasn't before but u just turned it down just now, get a low end note such as 15 or 20hz and slowly start to increase the volume watching the subs move and take note of what's the highest volume level u could turn it up to before they visually looked as if they reached or nearly reached their maximum potential. You will know when u get just past 50-60% movement because the quality of sound will change. This is you leaving the Xmax range and entering pure Xmech.

impossible! Whatever your battery's float voltage is, the alternator needs to be relatively higher than that to charge it. When comparing float voltage of battery to voltage regulator, the voltage regulator needs to be at least around 110% of the float voltage to charge and a max of 115% for best performance. For example- Older lead acid batts float at 12.6v 110% at least charge at 13.8v 115% charge for best performance at 14.3v For 16v batts- I believe they float at 17.3v If i'm right.. then- 110% at least charge at 19v 115% charge for best performance at 19.9v

are u sure it's the subs and not the box? give me the dimensions of your box and dimensions of your port... or... Tell me what it's tuned to if you know for a fact you built it just right.