shizzzon

i was gonna use it as a sound barrier wedged in between my window and wall but i already got it taken care of now.

u want a class d amp only so it draws the least power. And an amp for what u want shouldnt cost no more than $212 shipped.

Well so far, I'm being told the SMPS has ruptured and may be the culprit of disaster. I strongly believe this is purely amplifier failure but are currently uncertain as to why.

he just got his head unit wired up. I'm bout to take this setup out and properly o-scope his amps before i get a quick glimpse of what this little setup is capable of before we start doing car mods to it to help his score.

i just did what on the site- 4 cubes per sub for SPL and when i throw in my daily port, 3 cubes per sub.

and in a trunked car with a jar of nails holding the lid open, that's the secret we was missing

Ok, back from testing- Before i sealed the wall, i was gettin 152.2. Now i am getting 152.86db on my meter. I retested with the hatch door open... and i got the EXACT same score so woohoo! it's sealed. Next phase- port testing. So for the next month or so, don't expect any interesting updates... This is to test a variety of ports for tuning purposes, not so much for spl readings.

there is no transmission loss of spl at low volume with hatch door open. In about an hour or so, i'm gonna leave so i can go meter myself and see if i'm doing louder sealed now with hatch door open and shut. Next thing on the list is port tuning...

almost done sealing as far as i know! In about 45 minutes, i gotta spray one more can then let it cure... then i'll test and see if it's sealed good enough or not around 3-4pm EST. So far, i would have used 9 cans of triple expanding foam.

Got a new batch of tones on the hosting site! These are quite interesting. They are called "Idler." So, what is the idler? You hear semi trucks coming down the road at your work place, or big trucks sitting at idle, or people who have changed camshafts and upgraded underneath the hood? All of these examples exhibit a low dispersed rumble effect... well, that is what the Idler is. Frequencies ranging between 10-40hz, you choose which track works best for you. 60 second generation at 0db so you do not need to turn it up too loud. Now u can simulate having a big block engine for free, PS - if anyone wants any of the higher notes in this compilation "Idled" slower, let me know.

yea...this si what i do, pick a low low note like 20hz for you. Turn your stereo up to maximum listening level and turn the subsonic filter ALL the way UP! Now, put 20hz sine wave on repeat and go back to the amp. Slowly start to turn the subsonic down until you have reached the maximum excursion you wish to exhibit from your speaker.

the only cheap battery i know is a deka intimidator 9a31.

3 4" aero ports lengthened to 16.1" long will yield optimal port velocity of 10% the speed of sound. If u keep all 3 ports at 17" long, tuning will only decrease to 33.25hz so u might wanna just keep the length. Please keep in mind u will need to remember port displacement. A 4" cylinder made with 0.125" thick material subtracting 0.75" from MDF due to external displacement will have an internal length of 16.25" displacement with a cylindrical volume of 0.400 cu ft calculated for all 3 ports total. This does not include flared displacement on the inside but is so small that it will not effect calculations audibly. Therefore, you will need to take your 4.5cuft NET goal, add 0.4 cubes = 4.9cuft then add 0.1 for every 12 you install. IE - if using 2 12s, you will need 5.1cuft internal GROSS. IE - if using 3 12s, you will need 5.2cuft internal GROSS.

this reminds me of the Orion H2s... No matter how much power u planned on runnin to those subs, they wanted very small boxes and small ports for the best spl output. It's something like for a single 12... 1.0cuft ported at 2.500wrms with 35sqin of port.

awesome!, i might have to go to walmart soon and buy a pallet of towels, lol

sorry but not good idea. the port gonna take a lot of length and will fill a big portion of the rear wall.

OH ok, i'm assuming this is an OEM replaced alt, correct? And for this much room, you HAVE to face it forward! The box would be too large to face backwards, it would choke itself. run this setup without an added battery but if it looks to have problems, get a 60aH batt in the back and u be fine.

supposedly he says he has the room all facing forward too.

since he wants to downsize power, he has to get the most cone area to make up for it.

Why not 2 DC Audio Level 2 10s? Mounting depth is under 6" and requires 0.7 cubes per sub ported and are rated together at 600wrms\1200wpeak. You properly set up your amp and this would be a very nice choice.

in terms of electrical, i'm afraid to answer that due to your electrical issue right now. Adding another battery actually, in your case, will make it worse after several days. For 4 10s, you need 4 Dual 2 ohm 10s. Wire all 4 10s in series then parallel all connections to the amp. Depth-wise, 19-22" is fine. I wouldnt worry about the box yet, i'd just worry about what u ARE gonna go with, then i'll get actual box specs. Oh, and make sure this box will fit in the trunk too.

u can but... u gonna have the money and room to mount 3 amps? it'd be better to buy a more than enough power amp so u the extra resistance helps.

www.partsexpress.com

you can use any amp in that power range to push those subs as long as you don't constantly clip them. It's not eD's fault the amp clips... Inspect your settings via o-scope or like a lot of other people do... keep assuming it's set right.

if the port is not interchangeable then that is a MAJOR reason why he is having a hard time gaining any more DBs. Again, if it's not swappable, need to do another box design and make it interchangeable.