shizzzon

DO YOU LIKE LOUD OR DO YOU LIKE SMOOTH SOUNDING BASS? GOTTA PICK ONE CUZ U ARENT GONNA GET BOTH. BESIDES, THAT AMP IS TOO POWERFUL FOR THE SSD, YOU NEED TO CHOOSE BETWEEN THE BL AND THE Q ANYWAY.

this is simple, If it's too loud, you're too old. That's the answer to that whole thread you posted, end of discussion.

i dont really understand what u were asking but the sundown amp is rated at 1000w @1ohm, probably 500w at 2 ohm dont know for sure. It'd be stupid to spend ~$300 for 500w of power knowing the amp wouldn't match his setup. SSA is customizing his Dcon order so it matches the sundown amp anyway so the problem is solved.

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yea, you need to look at my build log, i'm running 2 3500ds on 4 15" Lvl4s. I'm still workin on it but i got the main part done with pics.

yea i run a 3500w amp on 2 lvl4s and they rated at 1000w per sub, that's fine. If i had those lvl3s, i'd prob run 1500w per sub to them but i like headroom. You set an amp up properly and you won't have anything to worry about.

you are fine doing that, you just dont wanna hook up 2 different brands together or 2 different series lines within the same brand. Sure people do it but it will shorten the life of the battery because batts have different properties and shoudl be matched to the proper product lines only.

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OK, design is done. Here is the front baffle- The port placement is as follows again measured from LEFT to RIGHT, BOTTOM to TOP- Port cut out area- 15" from left at 0.75" high(due to sub floor) to 27" from the left at 0.75" high. Port cut out area height is 4.25" high from sub floor. Port area = 12" x 4.25" = 51sqin. Perfectly fine for this install. Port length is to be added behind the double baffle 15.5" long. Add length inside at these measurements- from the left, 14.25" to 15" is the left wall running back. 27" to 27.75" is the right wall running back. The top wall of the port which is 0.75" thick is running on top of the 2 side walls at 14.25" to 27.75" back 15.5" just like the 2 side walls. those smaller circles are the wooden dowel bracing. Specific points aren't necessary, just make sure you put the top on last so u can get all your bracing done. Here is a pic of the bracing- Again, precise bracing points aren't necessary, just make sure none of them run into each other! This pic is showing using 2" diameter wooden dowels. Your box will be tuned to 33hz at 5.75 cubes NET. I know SSA recommends optimally at 5.0 NET for 4 subs but you will be fine with this setup. A look over- 5.75 NET, port area 12 x 4.25, 15.5" long internally tuned to 33hz. hope u build it, you will like it.

i was doin some lookin and it looks like the box design will remain exactly the same! The Dcons have twice the displacement but if you replace the 2x4s with wooden dowels it will balance out the displacement perfectly. I will now start the design process so u can see what it will look like.

u gonna have to change amps otherwise you are gonna be starving those DCons... The DCons are Dual 4 ohms so you need an amp that does it's best at 2ohms. I picked 2 amps for ya. A 1200w Kenwood amp - Kenwood 9104D A 1000w Alpine amp - Alpine MRP-M1000

for people like you who want to hit a number that typicallydoesnt happen all the time requires knowledge on whatexactly to expect to do, test and look for when trying toachieve an above-average goal.another tip is to dedicate a few weeks like i am about to doand test different port areas and tuning...when u finally find the right note to peak at, then it's timeto start testing different port areas.Think of a port as an exhaust pipe.too small of a port and you will choke and cause too muchback pressure(port turbulance) resulting in loss of SPL.too much port area and you will not have enough backpressure which can lose horsepower(big hole in the boxwith too low port velocity. Can also cause a sub to unload whichis dangerous to the suspension system.)So you gotta find just the right port area as well.Remember- once you find it and roll with it, if you ever addmore power, you will start choking your new potential!

no, go back and read about the amp problems, it was amplifier failure due to a defect of some sort, not user neglect.

ok, sounds good, i'll finish the port design tomorrow and try to get the bracing design done asap.

The Dcons would definitely hit lower, that's for sure. If you want those instead, i need to know so i can alter the design specs. The sub placement center points would remain the same, i would just need to alter the port design.

OK, you will have approximately 5.75 cubes NET after every displacement imaginable. Port should be tuned to 33hz but may fluctuate between 32-34.5hz depending on if you change the amount of bracing or the material used. Port will be the following- This is INTERNAL dimensions - 12" wide x 4.25" tall x 15.5" deep. The actual port is 17" deep but you account for 1.5" of that as being the double baffle, you just add 15.5" behind the double baffle for a total of 17". PORT location OPENING measured from LEFT to RIGHT, BOTTOM to TOP- 15" from the left to 27" from the left standing 4.25" off the floor. Here is a pic of it showing that the port length added inside the box will not interfere with screwing any subs into place- I will be working on showing where the bracing will be going tomorrow and thursday then i'll have some 3D pics of that for you. So, you will be built to 5.75 cubes NET tuned to ~33hz with a port velocity less than 10% speed of sound for your amp's wattage range. At this tuning level, with the exception of your car's peak frequency, your response graph is almost completely flat so this will not only get loud on the lower end but will also stay smooth while enjoying other music as well.

lol, if it were mine, i'd be spending close to $200 on building this sucker with just mdf and bracing but i like overkill because i compete. Let's say 2x4s since i dont know the size of dowels off the top of my head. Ok thanks, let me get the rest of the design. Oh, go ahead and order those subs anytime now, you have the proper room for them, Minimum is 0.6 ported Optimal is 1.1 ported Maximum is 1.66 ported This setup will allow each sub to see approx 1.3-1.5, i'm not done designing it yet so u are well within range.

Here is the situation, amp is irrelevant, here is the scene- Stock alternator, car on, over 14v at idle, starting battery up front, XS D3100 batt in the back(reads 13.0 float), so i gots plenty of battery power for this amp which requires a 200A fuse. I start to oscope the amp on a 48hz tone set to repeat. Every now and then, there would be a "THUD" sound that would quickly come from the amp. Unknown as to why but we continue to scope anyway. I do not know if it's relevant or not. Anyways, subsonic set to off, LPF set all the way up, bass boost OFF, phase 0, gain - all the way DOWN. All settings on HU were flat, sub preout set to 15, Kenwood HU. Volume goes to 35. I start the scoping process- I want the user to reach a volume of 27 before i start turning up the gain. Once he reaches approximately volume 20-22, this amp audibly appears to be outputting some decent serious power considering the gain is all the way down! Once the volume is adjusted just a couple more notches, not even reaching 27 yet, here is what i know- Voltage output on speaker leads- 28.5-28.7v (rated at 1.8kw@1ohm so not all the way there yet) Sine wave on scope was still 100% clean. immediately there was a "click" inside the amp as if something was switching then immediately smoke poured out the speaker wire\power\ground side. The amp was extremely hot on the power\ground side. Amp was taken apart and here are the pics- Before i show pics, there was a chip that was cracked with model number - KIA494AP = Korea Voltage Mode PWM module Controller is what i pulled from it. that and multiple FETs are fried, here are pics- And of the Chip, looks like a resistor got fried too-

u can get a hifonics Brutus 1200w amp for ~$200. These amps are just a little dirty so u start clippin your subs and they will go bye bye in no time.

to be honest, i strictly stay with AGM only. They are durable to vibrations and won't vent gas when charging\discharging.

haha, if that happened then we can sue, lol No, there's no way that happened. The line voltage on the HU is 2.5v and the gain was All the way down! I never had a chance to turn it up yet because the head unit never even got to the proper volume level to start adjusting settings.

i was gonna use it as a sound barrier wedged in between my window and wall but i already got it taken care of now.

I don't really want to order this stuff and have to wait for it so i wonder if i be alright using some things just lyin around the house? The space i got to fill isn't too large really. IT's about 3-4" wide and about 8" tall and the deeper the better. I was thinkin about stuffing all kinds of shirts that i dont wear anymore in there.. I'm sealing a wall and i gots to seal around a window and i'm not spraying foam on my glass so thick material is the only option. You think shirts or blanket sheets will work fine?.... then i'll just spray foam on this to complete the seal...