shizzzon

Jesus, well, might wanna advertise "requires upgraded batteries and suspension" hehe

i hope u arent plannin on runnin a single saz1500 on 2 AQ subs? If these are the HDC3s... u are severily underpowering them! You can still get the AP30001D and wire your subs in series to 4ohm nominal load and get a rated 1,800w of power or a hair more when clipped. Those HDC3s, if that's what u have, can handle one of those amps per sub when set right.

while this may be true, it can not be used as set in concrete. Efficiency changes with resistance. The higher the resistance, the higher the efficiency. I used to own a Cadence ZRS10 and i measured 94% efficiency at 4.2 ohms. I'm sure it's a lot lower than that at 1 ohm. Since resistance changes at every frequency, it is impossible to say that someone will achieve 1,500w of real power at 11.71v because of this. Due to efficiency changes, it may only be 72% efficient or 90% efficient but at such a high load it would be putting out no where near expected power. This is why it sucks for trying to quickly assume or quickly test power output... It requires multiple tools at once to find power in\power out specs.

alright man, just got back from buyin another DMM so i can get the meter workin again, this little meter is sweet, i'll show it to ya when we meet up again. Anyways, i gotta special order those O-scope probes and since i wont really be needin to do any emergency amp scoping soon anyway, i went ahead and bought this DMM so i can keep testin my car and yours too. I'll be to the point on this though- i need you to kill the rattle in your car before i ever meter your setup. Once you successfully do that, then i'll start metering your car and getting you higher numbers with various testing afterwards.

so does jl audio mean that it's constant power at a REAL 1.5-4 ohms or just stable wiring at 1.5-4ohms and will output constant power?

wow, i have never seen that happen before! How much do they weigh?

1. How old are you?----------------------27 2. When did you get into car audio?--------------16yrold 3. How did you first get into car audio?----------I was always surrounded by it in my neighborhood 4. Whats your favorite color?-----------Metallic or "hot" colors 5. Male or female?Male 6. Your first Car?----------------Oldsmobile Omega. Can't remember yr because it was bought out of junkyard and fixed up. 7. When did you first find out about this site?-----------whenever i registered. 8. How did you find out about this site?-------must have been doin some research on somethin. 9. What was your first system?----------haha, 2 10" Sanyo home speakers in a 4th order bandpass box ran off the rear outputs of the headnuit and 2 4x10s ran off the front outputs of the head unit. Back then, people thought i had an amp in there... 10. Do you have any pets?----------- 2 Bishons 11. Were do you live?---------Louisville, KY 12. Whats you favorite car audio brand?-------------I don't have a favorite but i tend to stick to the brands offered at SSA and Audioque, Knukonceptz for the rest. 13. Whats your favorite kind of pizza?-------Gluten Free 14. Whats your favorite kind of ice cream?-------Strawberry or vanilla with chocolate or strawberry syrup 15. Who is your hero in the car audio industry?--------uh... no one? I dont need a role model to look up to when doing designs. 16. Whats your dream system?------------Something just to see what it would do? A school bus layered in 2" thick steel all the way around the inside of the vehicle and filled completely up with bats, amps and subs. Looking for a 190 to happen someday for someone. 17. Whats your dream car?---------I dont like to think i have to win the powerball to get a dream car so expectations are always lower than most. Lotus Exige, multi-converted electric vehicle in Germany. 18. Whats the fast car you have drove/ road in? --------My Scion tC at 122mph. I'm not a fan of drivin fast, that's why i am into car audio. 19. Were do you buy most of your car audio products?---------E-commerce 100% unless an emergency occurs. 20. What is your job?-----------Forklift Operator, Warehouse Distributor, Computer Technician, Car Audio Technician, Video Editor, Beta Tester. 21. Whats your favorite saying?---------I can't say here... 22. Favorite smilie?---------gay question... 23. Who do you think is the hotest person?---- Your mom 24. Whats your favorite brand of cars?-------Electric German Cars, independent companies. 25. What do you like better, cars, vans, trucks, or suv's?---------Anything that fits the job 26. Whats one thing that most ppl on SSA dont know about you?----- Ask your mom... no, lol, I do i lot of work that most people dont know about. I'm not just a car audio guy, i tend to LOTs of hobbies and rarely get more than 4 hrs of sleep everyday. 27. Do you now how to build a subwoofer box? If so how old were you when you built it?-------Of course, i dont know the age because it wasn't something spectacular to do. I do research on what i want to do then i do it. 28. Were would you like to visit?-----------London 29. Whats is the most recent thing you have purchased?-----------Brake Pads. Gotta be able to stop better with an extra 450lbs of weight in the car. 30. Do you know who Chuck Norris is?Who? 31. Who do you think is the most knowledgeable person on SSA? I don't tend to view people like that because lots of people have their own intelligence in different fields and experiences with car audio so it depends on what subject in car audio is being referred to. 32. What time is it?---------12:50pm 33. What kind of computer do you have?------------I run 3 computers for myself right now and 2 others upstairs. For me, it's a laptop, then a custom Celeron D i use for graphing blueprints and fixing video game systems. My main pc is a custom Quad Core Q9300 with 4gb of RAM OCed to Quad 3.33 and 1114Memory. I do lots of video editing so processing power is a must. In a couple yrs, i will be building a Quad Socket multi cored system for the purpose of editing 1080p and higher graphics. 34. Whats your dream job?----------Entrepreneur successfully.

Head unit - Alpine W205 Image Dynamic 6.5s Front stage 4 Custom DC Soundlabs Lvl4 15s Walled 2 Audioque AQ3500Ds 1 Sundown 100.4 1 Mechman 250A alternator Dual 200A Paralleled Solenoids 2 XS Powermaster batteries 100sqft of Secondskin Damplifier Pro Over 30cuft of Triple Expanding Foam. 1/0, 2/0 and 3/0 wire throughout vehicle.

welcome to the world of rise where every frequency effects the output power of the amp... With that jl amp, all frequencies do not effect output therefore it's always a constant output value.

Yep, phi owns one on here, AWESOME amp for the price! Here is the specs - 1000w@8ohm bridged 1800w@4ohm bridged 3000w@2ohm bridged 1500w x 2 @ 1ohm 950w x 2 @2ohm 550wx2@4ohm We were getting the following yesterday when testing- 1246w @7.3 ohms 1497w @6.2 ohms

make sure the wire is plenty long for this. If it isnt long enough to each the other end of the terminal, u might wanna use as much silver in the solder as possible to get good conductivity. Anyways, you do hold the iron to the point of contact. This lets the iron heat up the point(terminal). You then brush the solder slowly over the terminal\wire and it will immediately melt in place. If your problem is when it melts it doesnt stay, u only need to hold the iron in place for a couple seconds at a time. holding it there will damage the terminal. Also, if it flowed on the wire but didnt stay after the iron was removed, you will need flux but at this point.... i'd just get a vice.

lol, that is true, i'm still laughin, hehe. I run 7kw because i intend on competing. I would only assume logically someone willing to up to 9kw only to show off or go to local comps even though it wasn't mentioned... it's probably implied. To run that much daily would very quickly be seen as too much headroom but i'm sure he already knows that. and from experience - If the RE SX can take 3,000w daily for 30-90 sec daily runs then i'm sure the RE MX can take 2250w daily to answer your question. And from current experience, if u do plan on runnin this for daily that loud, even for spurts all the time, a single 4500d on 4 18s will kill your hearing in about 3-4 months... Kill meaning a significant, noticeable loss. That's why i dont do it and i'm runnin 4 15s and 7kw. I heard what it can do and i dont want that for daily, that kind of output power is strictly for the lanes.

i built a wall with expanding foam and didnt tear my vehicle up. I layered all my upholstery with fabric and taped it in place then filled it in. my wall prob cost me around $500 ish after all bracing and adhesive\sealant products were used.

if u are referring to the subwoofer level control on the head unit... It's quite possible!

to be more specific, it's the regulator, not the alt. If you take a very fast bass beat, the alt will not even attempt to provide power for that. if u start a test tone, it's possible for the lights to dim at the start but immediately return to a more full glow since the regulator "sees" a current demand and supplies it. it's a lot easier to see this scenario happen with not even batts in the install. Back recently when i had overkill reserve capacity, i could sit at idle and pull 240A of current measured out of my batts and the lights would never flicker and no help from the alternator because i my rpm was below the "turn on " point. Then, i ran a single amp off just starting battery and 250A alt pulling 125A maximum measured current and i would have light dimming like crazy with changing bass notes, etc... I go to play a test tone and i would have no dimming at all for the duration... the regulator sees the demand and supplies power.

oh really, oops, lol I was rattling off lines off the top of my head, i got the first half right, hehe,

yea man, i'm still waitin on those specs so i can blueprint your ride to see if 4 18s in a wall can work for you. most 18s want around 6 cubes optimal so let's say 24 + about 4 cubes displacement for port and sub displacement ~ 0.25 per, you are averaging around 29 cubes GROSS internal But enough speculating, u get me the specs and i'll find out for sure.

u should be fine, yes. You should have no worries at all. you may get slight to moderate light dimming but don't get scared immediately. If it happens, it's just the alternator not reacting fast enough and is pulling it's current directly from starting battery until the alt reacts which is usually about 1 second. Now, if u get light dimming on a constant bass line... then u have a problem and need to turn it down.

the purpose of me telling u to move to another preout is to see if your sub preout is damaged or not

it's not the sub, it's the install design. I can't see any of these subs not "keeping up" with any music out there. Also, when i say comp oriented, i mean they are more geared for in the lanes for taking abuse and gettin u little bit higher numbers. If u wanna leave the option of runnin 9000w of power, hehe, u can scratch every single one of those off the list except for the HDC3s. You would be lookin in another line from all companies. You would want 2000wrms per sub. HDC3 Aluminums is what u would want from that list. IA DPs FI BTL RD Audio Elite Pierce Audio WMD2 Crossfire XS Sundown Nightshades SSA XCONs Treo Engineering SSX RE Audio MX Some of these lines may not have 18s, i cant remember, just off top of my head.

when the output of an amp is outputting at a very low volume, lot lower than normal at the level being played, never turn it up louder... even more damage can occur if there is something wrong with it. Unhook remote controller and do everything via the amp. Make sure the crossover points are set right. LPF set around 60-80hz and subsonic in the 30s or lower, however u got it tuned to or off if sealed(with proper power). also if it's none of these, replace rca jacks with a new set or run the rcas to a different preout on the head unit.

in experience with "big boy" amps, i would never rely on low voltage protection to kick in when it's outputting some serious power. I've heard this from audio companies\shop owners as there is a chance that the protection may not react fast enough and cause damage. It's the same logic as let's wire a sub down to 0.15 ohms when it's only 1 ohm stable and blast it... Some frequencies may be playin over 1 ohm so if it drops below 1 ohm, it's got protection.... It's not safe! Sure u can wire the 2000d to 4 ohms and get more power out of it than what u have now obviously if u feel like it. If u really that anxious, go for it.

that sounds like he's on stock alternator. 13.1v is the range of float for these type of batts. Any current demand larger than what the alt can handle will dip down to the batteries. As the current output from an alt increases, the voltage drops until it can't keep up, then it's all on the batts in terms of voltage. Also, assuming he still has a stock alt, that's alot of reserve capacity for a stock alt, if he doesn't have a batt charger, i hope he does a lot of drivin in the 2-3krpm range to keep those batts charging... but not too long i hope or it'll kill his alternator. he has 209aH in the car. Let's say he has an 80A alt. If both batts dropped 25% from a full charge, it would take approximately, taken into account the car is using about 40A while driving, about 1hr 20min at a constant 2-3krpm to charge those batts back up... that would definitely kill the alternator obviously. also, nobody drives at that high rpm unless speeding on the interstate for a very long time. For your buddy's sake, he needs to ensure he's properly keepin his batts charged because that is most likely not the fault of Kinetik. I have LESS aH than he does(in the rear, not total in the car) and i'm runnin over 7,000wrms in my ride and i only have 1.1v drop so that shows you that something is definitely wrong with the charging system.. not the batts or at least hope it hasnt gotten that far by now.

From experience with a wall, anything u put in it will sound very accurate, actually much tighter than a typical sealed box sounds. Strange to hear that? It's actually not strange. The subs have no loading area before the sound reaches your ears so what u hear is the effect of no loading, nothing for the waves to amplify off of, just straight to you. Now, for the low bass, such as in the low 30s and especially below that, it takes a lot of power, the saz4500 i'm sure is powerful enough, to reproduce the low end with force. It's easier to reproduce the low end when the notes are in a loading area prior to you hearing it. Now since there is no loading area, it takes more power to hear it. I am noticing that i gotta crank the Head unit up on my install pretty good before the low end comes alive... then when it's really cranked before i start clipping the amps, .... it's dangerous to the car, let's just put it that way. Thummper would know, lol Since you are not competing, you don't really need to focus on the technical detail of every little thing. Just get u 4 18s rated at 1000wrms per sub, all Dual 2 ohm or 4 single 4 ohm and be done with it. I would choose from any one of these- Fi Q Fi BL FI SSDs (fully loaded) DC Lvl4, XLs are more comp based and not really necessary for you unless u wanna spend the extra money anyway. AQ HDC3s Copper Coil Soundsplinter RL-p RE Audio SX Treo Engineering SSi Pierce Audio WMD Mach5Audio MJ18M (that may be pushin it if u ever try to go balls to the wall with em) Those are your choices that i can think of for the power you have... good luck.