shizzzon

what is this goin in? That is an odd box to actually have the baffle elevate off the floor like that.

yea, i had the privilege of testing some SSDs not too long ago off of a 3000w amp for approximately 90 minutes on and off on pure test tones only. Maximum metered power delivered was 1457w. Average power sent to each SSd over this entire period was 1200w MINIMUM measured so FI subs can handle power just fine.

is this what ur trunk looks like?-

copy the IMG code and paste directly into your typing area. Do not use the insert image button, just copy the IMG code instead and paste here.

that's only normal if they are both wired in series

odd... I've never seen actual resistance measure nominal resistance. But even at that reading, wired in parallel should be 2.0-2.1, not 2.5. What size wire u usin? Try a minimum of 10 awg wire and try to keep the run no longer than 6ft and see if that helps.

Ok the results- Square wave- 149.03db pulled 237.6A Sine Wave- 149.29db pulled 232.2A This was maximum unclipped signal so the sine wave still won in both pressure and lower power draw. I'd say square waves are pointless for competition...

retest. First, touch probes together and see what they read then subtract that from what the coils read.

no, that 1900w rating that was mentioned was on a 0.5 ohm load. Dual 4 ohm subs can be wired to 1ohm so you're fine.

I've been thinkin, i'm not gonna create a new thread about the following post but just keep it here. The following is a list of some AVERAGE scores to expect when running certain setups installed in vehicles. I can't list every possible thing but just what i've experienced. Again, this is MY EXPERIENCE so if you are not up to par with the following list, you have design issues. If you surpass the list with flying colors above and beyond... you know more about competing than the average joe. So, here is what i've witnessed over several years- Single 10" sub- 140db+ with 1500w or more Dual 10" subs- 143db+ with 2000w or more Single 12" sub- 143.5db+ with 1500w or more Dual 12" subs- 146db+ with 1500w or more Single 15" sub- 145.5db+ with 1500w or more Dual 15" subs- 148db+ with 1500w or more Single 18" sub- 146.5db+ with 1500w or more dual 18" subs- 149db+ with 1500w or more This is ALL tuned in the LOW 30s for typical daily driving! If you are not up to par with these specs and have the right amount of power or more... You have design problems or environment restrictions. Examples are- Tuning too low for daily, box not large enough, port not large enough, port placement not the best, same goes for subs, air restrictions in cargo area, very high impedance rise(rare), extreme voltage drop, air leaks, box design failure, improper tuning of head unit or amp. You can achieve lot higher numbers listed above usually by tuning slightly higher to match car's peak note and vehicle and box modifications to accomodate excessive pressure levels. Combine this with suggested port areas above and you could start breaking state records!

the sub doesnt displace half a cube?!?1 Most subs in that range will displace a max of around 0.2 cubes if that. Get a saws-all or a jigsaw and start cuttin back on the port til u get desired tuning. 40hz recommended if u wish not to have lots of lows 38hz for best blend of loud upper range and decent lows 35hz for devastating lows and decent upper range 29-34hz for Godlike lows and very little upper range.

yea... that's a 0.5 ohm nominal load too which isnt recommended for daily driving. the saz-1500d is still a good choice for such install. Any 1200-2000w that is capable of doing rated power at 1ohm or bridged at 4 ohm is fine as long as you have the electrical system for it.

yes, get a 2x4 and stand it straight up to the right inside that box and keep it just to the right of the magnet viewing from front of box. Run a small run of all-thread from the right wall to the 2x4 and then run another run from the 2x4 to the back wall. Make sure the 2x4 meets the top of the box as well so you will have the top, bottom, side and back braced.

i currently use winxp 64bit at the moment. I got VMware, i could run windows 7 in it and see what happens but i gotta have like a whole day to setup all that stuff.

technically, that may only happen once clipping occurs and by then it's too late... However, i could try, i would just need 2 people to do it so the next time i'm at a meet, i'll try it. I take that back. I'll just set the ammeter to peak hold and do it myself tomorrow.

Steve Meade does the same thing i do and a lot of others when running big power. He only runs it at that high power level for a few seconds. You don't want the subs heating up so people like me get massive power put on subs so for competition, it's well worth it. Can't really use the power wisely for daily driving. If money was an issue, you could always run 2 AQ3500ds. That's just under $1400 for 7,000w. You can easily run that amp per BTL, it's just not wise to run it at max power to achieve such power out of the amp for daily use and for your hearing.

operating system probably wont help as much or at all for speed with stuff like this. It's purely based on the instructions that the processors support and the software that is capable of using those instructions! Now, yes, i've heard of this new video encoding technology of using Nvidia video card's GPUs to help massively in the speed of encoding... but there is a major downfall. I've never had the experience of seeing it for myseld but they due disclose a warning letting people know that using GPUs to encode video WILL alter the quality outcome and High Definition backups should not be altered so that is why i have never been interested in the technology.

Some more info- I did a comparison a while back of using a sine wave vs a square wave as source material for burping in competition. the result was- The square wave IS significantly louder than a sine wave as long as the signal is not clipped! If using a sine wave and you drive it into severe clipping, the sine wave will actually be louder! Well, i was under the assumption that for comp rules that put you in classes based on fuse rating, using a square wave would be beneficial as long as it's not clipped... I just got done doing some more testing on that theory and it may NOT be useful. Doing a very low power output test, i pulled 3.3A of current running a sine wave. running the same tone but as a square wave at the same volume level, yes it is louder but is also drawing 4.0 amps too. So, the square wave draws more power but is louder... it is up for grabs as to which would make someone louder on the mic when the signal is not clipped due to fuse limiting. --------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Something else i have been noticing when messing around with someone else's design. If you have a trunk vehicle with setup in the trunk- If you plan on competing, MAKE SURE you have plenty of breathing room around the box to get into the cabin area! I was messin around with a build where the subs face forward and are almost flush with the back seat when folded down and ported to driver side. Because the box is so close to the back seat wall, attempting to seal ANY holes in the rear deck resulted in a loss of output! Why? Because it is using every little hole possible to reach the cabin area. IT's best to have a meter when doing this, but if you are planning on ever sealing up the trunk to get the most out of it... make sure the port is firing into the cabin. Do not give yourself "some room" in front of the box and seal everything else... that's bad. ----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Competition Port Area recommendations, (my personal opinion)- Most companies will tell you that they recommend 12-16sqin of port area per cube of internal NET volume. I'm finding that VERY LOW for comp use! Surprised? u think that was pretty large? Well, actually it isnt... I strongly suggest the following values- 28-32sqin PER CUBE NET ported. Examples of recommended installs based on average box requirements from companies most offered here on SSA- single 10" sub - 32-60sqin dual 10" subs - 64-120sqin single 12" sub - 56-85sqin dual 12" subs - 112-170sqin single 15" sub - 88-130sqin dual 15" subs - 176-260sqin single 18" sub - 130-190sqin dual 18" subs - 260-380sqin These recommendations are my personal opinion from testing and should provide best output potential on the mic.

I just got done discussing with someone what i am doin with my wall in the car and have found a solution, a very cheap solution. I need to have my wall flared on the inside and outside to try and achieve higher pressure levels. My port area is 16.5" wide x 11.25" tall. Look at the bottom pic to see what a Bellmouth port looks like- for my application - There is a guy around town that can make me ANY custom size, flare, etc for my wall so i told him to hold off for a couple weeks while i test other things before i venture in flare port testing. I have some questions though so i can get him to make the proper size. The outside flare can stick out of the box a MAXIMUM of 5" deep. Any deeper and i'll void my division i wish to compete in. So, how wide and tall should the flare end up being? Internal is 16.5" wide x 11.25" I will be using either 0.5" or 0.75" thick wood so it will make the area a little smaller when the port is slid into place. Now, onto the questions- How much of an increase inch-wise should the outer flare be compared to the inner area? If the inner area was- 15" x 9.75"... should the outer flare size be 25" x 19.75" is that too much, too little, how should i know??? how DEEP should the flare be? should the entire flare process be 2,3,4,5" deep?? how do i know? Should the outer flare have a flat base by the time it's done flaring or not? Can i just install damplifier pro to the outside of this type of port to kill resonance of the material or what should i use to be the most effective for practical use? Any other things i should know?

my application is different, i'm curious. I cant add anymore to the port on the outside, i will be put into Radical class against the crazy-asses of competition and i am not destroying my car to compete with these people in that division. I need something to lower my tuning while i am cutting more port off.... I'm hoping this works...

Ok, let's say you need a larger enclosure for SPL competition and you have ran out of port options... You need a larger enclosure... would polyfill help or would it actually drop pressure potential... My ports are starting to tune past my peak and i can't enlarge my port area too much more... Was wondering if i start dropping polyfill in the enclosure if it will not only start to lower the tuning back some but keep me gaining as well... Is it worth a try?

D3100 per 3000d. So 2 3000d = 234aH. So... 300aH is plenty.

with that much, u can sit there for a WHILE blastin it... But you also dont want the alternator to charge a large bank back up or it could overheat.

Acousta-stuf will be here tomorrow so testing will be this weekend.

dont piss me off, i'll drive my car through a wall and replace it with my wall.... actually u might like that,