shizzzon

Please do not buy that amp! Buying an expensive sub with that amp is like expecting great gains from installing a CAI on a Kia.... That amp is not suggested whatsoever. The cheapest budget based amp currently getting high reviews is the Audiopipe AP30001D rated to do just over 3,000w at 2ohms bridged, dual class d amplifier. Since it appears you are new to the car audio realm, if you were to purchase such amp (brand new under $350), i would highly recommend someone trained to properly set it up for you or you will smoke your BTL. IT's also possible that any amp i or someone else mentions can smoke the BTL too due to clipping the amp when overdriven and will not be warrantied because this is a neglected fault caused by user error. If you are willing to purchase the proper tools to setup an amp or to have a qualified person do it for you, then by all means buy that Audiopipe amp. You can also get an AQ2200D which is just under $400 brand new. It does 2200w @ 1ohm. A 1 ohm stable amp requires a Dual 2 ohm. A 2 ohm stable amp requires a Dual 1 ohm.

hey, go to Kinetik's website, if u dont already have one of these batts, and get the dimensions for it and then look to see if it can fit in the right side area of the car. I would look on mine but all my panels had to be removed for my equipment to fit. The battery is going there regardless so see exactly where and how it will fit in the right hand side then post back the remaining dimensions that you have available. The Height and Depth should remain the same, the width is the only thing that may change.

Audioque 3500D can be purchased direct from Audioque for just under $700 brand new. Get 3 Dual 2s to wire to a 1.33 nominal load.

Have you tried plugging speakers in then turning it on? On most heavy powered amps, they require an actual load on the amp or it could actually damage it! I can't go into detail why to explain it but i think it has something to do with is seeing a dead short, 0 ohms but i could be wrong. If that's not it, check voltage at amp's terminals. If that voltage is decent, 11.5v minimum for example, then something is wrong with it.

what size battery you gonna use? I'm gonna have to draw a design for ya so u can have proper air flow The battery, when looking into the hatch will be on the right side, on the side of the box. The port will be facing to the rear on the passenger side and will use the entire back of the car at oly 3" back as a loading area. Fair warning- VERY excessive vibrations are likely to occur with this design. If you have a spoiler on the car... reinforce it, disassemble the hatch door panels and deaden the hell out of it... over and over and over. So, tell me what batt u usin so i can see how much u will have left. ALSO - where is your amp gonna be mounted? DO NOT mount it in the loading area, it will more than likely get damaged... You may be able to get away with mounting it on the box on the side in between the front of the box and the back seat. Make sure you reinforce the mounting legs with something that can absorb vibrations. I use luxury liner pro from www.secondskinaudio.com I sell a pack of 4 1.5 x 1.5" squares for $8 mailed USPS if u need some.

well, like i said before, 2 12s would be louder than a single 15. So, 2 12" BLs would rival a single 15" BTL with 3000w. I have box design charts that show spl levels on a frequency range between 20hz-52hz, typical range for a sub. I'll tell u what, i'll post all the documents, you choose which design u like the best based on output! Whatever design you choose will answer your actual available dimensions as they will change depending on design. Pay attention to the layouts because each document is recorded with windows and doors shut, then windows and doors open. Also, test box that was used shows a peak of around 33-34hz. The car was tested in an environment with $550 worth of Damplifier Pro installed in the vehicle. None on the doors. 2 layers on the cabin floor and 3 layers everywhere else in the rear. Everything shut- Everything open- Everything shut- Everything open- Everything open- Pick a design that looks pleasing to you. Pay no attention to the actual Db numbers produced. The test was done on a 100w amplifier. Just pay attention to the frequencies that are loud, stay the loudest, most consistent throughout the range and so on.

impossible. I own a scion tc and that cannot be done efficiently. And, the dimensions you gave is not big enough. Double baffle + sub displacement alone is 5.75 cuft. The port will take up over 1 cube and after bracing displacement, would onyl be large enough for a SINGLE 15", not 18" Now, if u tell me you want to run a 15 instead... then i can help ya. Honestly though, 2 12s for daily will be louder for ya than a single 15. I used to run 2 12s ran off of 2 2200ds in the hatch and metered a 148.0 flat on a tlab at 42hz. If this is for comp, i would NOT use 2 12s but rather a single 15 so u can have more useable port area.

Hey man, they are only 44aH. I would recommend using 6 of these just for those 2 4000w Rockfords you have and a 7th one for your starting battery. If you still insist on running only 5 of them, let me know. Let me know for sure somethin so i can start it.

Also don't be surprised that if u really do listen to it at that level for driving and u get used to the pain, that u will soon be a member of a major hearing aid message board.

and on top of all that, DO NOT get drawn into the hype about "getting your amp modded to handle lower ohm loads". All that is doing is basically removing the protection circuit from prohibiting the amp from shutting down so u can run it DIRECTLY into destruction. Ask DB-R about people who mod amps just to turn right around and send em to him to fix because of their stupidity. I saved someone else over the weekend from doing such a wiring configuration. For some unknown reason, he has 2 Dual 2 ohm subs wired to 2 ohm on a sundown 3000D. The subs he is using needs a lot more power than that load can offer but i was tuning his car and found out he has a 2.96x rise at his peak note. Wiring his subs down to 0.38DCR would allow him to just surpass a 1 ohm load on the amp. I told him you can do it but you gonna need more battery... Very next thing he said.... "you think it be alright if i were it like that for daily?" I answered NO before he even finished the sentence. I already know that rise DROPS lot lower in places that usually don't sound as loud to the ear. You can be pullin only 800w out of a 3000w at your loudest frequency or small range there but once u start listenin to areas that dont sound that loud, don't be surprised that the amp starts puttin out over 2000w in that area and it's not that loud at all. That's where crossovers come in handy.

actually they are solenoids; isolators will cause a voltage drop.ok, i'll get the dimensions and specs of the batts later today and see if i'm ready to go.

oh, u never told me, is that your battery that u have? the sp1700?

if ur starting battery was the same make and model, then no need for solenoids but if it's different, u need em for reliability.

well, with proper bracing and all that, it should do around a 55-56 on music and a 57-59 if used for comp...on average.

I've been havin to measure a few amp's outputs recently to measure wattage output and actual resistance at a given note for competition. All the amp's i've ever tested, i always have the user keep it at the same volume level for several seconds so i can get an average voltage and amperage reading sinec these numbers always fluctuate due to resistance changing and voltage dropping... Well, i had the opportunity to measure a sundown SAZ-3000D over the weekend.. and i've NEVER seen an amp remain constant throughout the whole test! This guy's setup was given rise to 4.06 ohms and metering 1273w! That's pretty damn good considering it's only rated for 800w @4ohm. Anyways, i was reading 71.9v and 17.7A. As soon as the volume was turned to the level to achieve these numbers, i thought both my meters were on PEAK hold all of a sudden?!?! The numbers NEVER ONCE moved and was running for a good 9 seconds before it was turned back down. Do these amps have a regulated power supply in them? Whatever it is, is sure does keep the power output stable as hell. I was impressed!

good idea on the dual alt instead, i suggest doing that. Also, you will be mixing battery technologies and i strongly suggest you to get solenoids in this design to prevent premature battery failure. I've never done a dual alt setup but i assume you are gonna use 1 alt to run starting battery and 2 stinger batts and the other alt to run the other 2 stinger batts, correct? If this is right, you will need 2 200A solenoids. You can go to www.oznium.com and to the left, go down to relays and purchase 2 of their 200A solenoids. When the main power line comes from Alt #1, you will wire the solenoids(which will be in the rear of the car) in parallel so they can accept up to 400A of current per line so the tops dont melt. It's too risky just to run 1 because you can fry the terminals since they only rated for 200A individually. I can show you how to wire them in parallel when that time comes. Look to spend just under $100 for both of them shipped. These will isolate the first 2 stinger batts from the Optima and will prevent premature battery failure. You dont need 2 more for the other alt because all batts(just the other 2 stingers) are same make and model so nothing bad should happen.

a sundown amp would work best if you get a dual 2 ohm sub. What amp? SAZ-2000D is what i would recommend for the average user. If you are crazy with running equipment and can safely setup amps and monitor subs status during playback, i'd put the SAZ-4500D on it but that's just me... i like overkilled-headroom.

r u talkin bout this battery- The SP1700. 1700A for 5 seconds or 3500A short circuit. I will say that you really dont need 3 250A alts but if u already got em... use em hehe. If this is the batt u have, i'm assuming ALL 4 is going in the rear? or is 1 of the 4 going up front? After i get this info, i'll start doing the design.

hehe, well if u plan on using both of those amps.... We are gonna have to work out all the space required to get this built! Get the largest alternator you can for your car first. After you get that, you are gonna need a minimum of 250aH for short full blast runs or close to ~500aH of batts for long term runs at max power and capability of stabilizing voltage at idle a lot better due to extra bank. I'm gonna have to draw all this out in CAD so i will need to know what batts you plan on goin with so i can make sure everything fits when it gets designed. NOTE- When i am done with a design, The design is PURELY based on the specs you give me. If anything has been measured wrong, or not installed in the exact manner as it is drawn out, it may not fit depending on how tight of space i may have to work with. If i feel it will be a very tight install, i will want you beforehand to ensure physically that you have the appropriate room before buying all your equipment.

OK, now onto the purpose of design... Is this for daily, non-sanctioned competitions or for sanctioned xompetitions? Are u or do u have the capability to test different box designs to find the best design or are u set on a certain firing direction? Something else you must consider too- Measure the opening of your trunk because if i decide to create a large box, if it doesnt fit, you gonna have to build it inside the trunk which will be... well not easy. Basically just the max width and depth of the opening is fine. You got PLENTY of room to do a massive forward firing design for competition but i might be able to use some of this room to do a rear firing design so you can have a loading area and be very loud for daily driving too.

Also, i fi use the whole 55" width in Depth #1's area, can the box be 18" tall WITH the trunk closed? The trunk arms won't be in the way?

OK, what is Depth #1's depth seen below? Also, what is Depth #2's depth AND what is it's width?

i would purchase a deka intimidator 9a31, or a Kinetik HC2400 or a XS D3100 and put it in the back and keep your stock alternator. This will see if u need a new alt or not. You are gonna need an extra battery anyway so might as well get one of those.

ok here is ur trunk with the tire still in, i know you took yours out.. but- I actually think you should leave the box FLAT! I wouldnt use the angled part of the car as part of the box. You can use that to your benefit in box design just like people use hatchbacks to their advantage when designing smaller setups. can u do me this favor- Give me the maximum height you can use IN BETWEEN the trunk arms from where the trunk floor begins to be flat to the rear bumper. I'm assuming it gets lower the closer to the bumper you get so if that's true, tell me what that height is. I will also need to know what is the width, the INSIDE width from the left trunk arm to the right trunk arm. Then i will need to know the MAXIMUM width of the trunk floor KEEPING the height the same level all the way across that you will tell me soon when measured at the back of the car. I will then need the depth of the trunk floor from the closest i can get to the rear of the car to where the flat part of the floor stops. Then i can see how much space u have so i can think of another acoustical design if available.

i believe the possible reason the square wave doesnt win is because a square wave is generated with a higher medium of tones than just a single peaking tone. I'm curious to see if i go about regenerating some "boosted" sine wave tracks if they could meter higher than normal sine waves. If it does, these tracks are not legal for world finals but ARE legal during the season.