shizzzon

you need more port area man... Also, do NOT USE THESE FOR DAILY! THEY ARE COMPETITION USE ONLY!!! NO NEED FOR PORT ADAPTER!!!! You need more than DOUBLE the port area you have posted for strictly competing.

am i suppose to subtract a jack? WTH is that? Let me know if both of those ports are slots or not so i can give u an answer. Also, what is the sub displacement?

are the 2 10x3" ports sharing 2 walls to make each port?

i dont know anything about the requirements for the sub but this is what i do know- most 12s are recommended to be in 2cuft NET You need at least 25sq of port, recommended at least 32sqin, not 18sqin. When building a port, try to use the whole height of the box for the slot port. The way you built it is just taking up unnecessary room in the box due to the thickness of the wood. Also, when using a port that shares the box wall, the beginning of the port from the inside of the box will have an acoustical extended length to it. Average calculations would say that the width of the slot port would have an acoustical length 0.5x that of the width. Example- If you had a 14.5" high x 3" wide port, the acoustical extended length would be 1.5" and this would need to be subtracted from required port length to obtain desired tuning frequency. Also, if building port completely in the box, if the port uses the baffle as part of it's length, do not forget to account for this as well.

most rap only drops to the mid 30s. You may get lucky and fine some that drop down to the low 30s. Mainstream rap mostly stays above the 40s with some exceptions like Gorilla Zoe's Juice Box is at 38hz. Even a lot of bass tracks that are like songs dont even drop below the mid 30s! If you have no subsonic filter at all and care to design a box to prevent the possible use of one, u can... I run 4 15s (rated at 1000wrms per) off of 7,000w and no subsonic filter and i have no problems. It's mainly the music i listen to though. I am cautious with some songs and some songs i refuse not to play at all. Here is a box design you can make- Find the smallest recommended ported enclosure size for your sub. Build it to that spec and tune low, such as right at 30hz flat. it's my experience that building to the bare minimum recommended size allows a lot of forgiveness in over-excursion. Such as my install right now i've already told you about. My last install was 2 12s (1000wrms per) ran off of 4,400w of power. Now, i DID have the subsonic filter set in this install but because i was tuned so high, 38hz. The subsonic filter was not set to come into play until 24hz. Now, my current install.. yes, i can bottom my subs out if i wanted to but the music i play never drops that low to the frequency that could cause damage so i currently don't have the filter set. I will eventually when i am done testing but now is not the time.

see, i can understand how the specs of a speaker will affect the box requirement for a great pure spl box... but some competitors swear that no matter what subs they use, small boxes and LOTS and LOTS of port area is the best way vs larger box with however much port area you wanna use. That's why i am dumbfounded to try and understand this. Yes there are companies who suggest the opposite of each other but there are competitors also who swear by the small box design.

Hey, i'm gonna spill out all kinds of info so make sure you understand it, hehe. I'm currently workin on your design right now, you will be using external dimensions of 42" wide x 17" tall x 22" deep. This IS what i am going with. You will be using a double baffle on this box. Box material will be constructed out of 0.75" material. I need to know what bracing material you will be using, Wooden dowels or 2x4s? Internal dimensions- 40.5" wide x 15.5" tall x 19.75" deep. Your speaker Outer Diameter is 10.91", i went ahead and rounded up to 11" for a hair more headroom for accidental measurement inaccuracy. Your Baffle design- The border around this baffle is showing the thickness of the wood. I wanted to show you that ALL the subs will have 1 point that will be screwing into an adjacent piece to hold the subs to the baffle. This is not a problem, i just wanted to let you know this. I made sure that no subs would need to be screwed through the floor. Here are the CENTER points for which the subs will be mounted. Do NOT shift these points or your subs will not fit. To make sure they will fit before cutting out the holes, take a compass and put it on the center point and draw an 11" diameter circle(5.5" radius) and NO circle should overlap another. They will come close but will not overlap. These measurements are being measured from LEFT to RIGHT, Bottom to TOP- Sub #1- 5 17\32" x 6 9\32" Sub #2- 15 11\32" x 11 7\16" Sub #3- 26 3\4" x 11 7\16" Sub #4 - 36 15\32" x 6 9\32" Those are your center point locations for drilling\cutting your mounting hole. I will now be working on your port and Bracing design. PLEASE tell me what material you will be using for bracing so i can get this done tonight.

i'll draw that too sometime this week.

well, sounds like u like it, so i shall finish it with specs by the end of the week. I'm not gonna give u specs as to where to put the dowels, lol, that's pretty easy. Look at the pic just so u dont forget to brace any sides and make sure you don't run the WIDE one from side to side to close to the front so u let the subs fit in the box, hehe. The subs will need to be positioned pretty much like that because you want at least 8" of free space on the right of that box as that's where your other wheel well will be sitting. U gonna need me to come over and help lift this box in ur car? It's gonna be heavy. Also, it's interesting to note that if u adapt the external port as an "optional add-on" by building the internal port to the box then just attaching the external port whenever...DETACHIHG the external port will tune the port to around 40hz so it would be a better tune if u ever wanted to really lighten it up or for comp use. Of course you'd lose some lows so might not be your taste for everyday listenin but if u make that external extension adaptive, then your design would be that much more flexible. Easy way to do this is when making the double baffle, the outer shell baffle should leave about 1-1.5" space around the port on the left and right(0.75" on the left, 1-1.5" on the right.) Then take your adaptive port and secure it FLUSH to the reserved area to make it look almost seamless. you can use speaker foam tape or something similar to run all along the gaps to prevent air leaks when it's secured. Attach the port with brackets on the left side of the box and however you want on the right hand side. If you did decide to do this, try not to actually screw the adaptive port into place if you plan on removing it alot as it will eventually split the MDF and weaken every time it's removed. Secure it with brackets holding it in place instead.

you dont need the BP power with 3 subs in the mix... Now, if u were runnin 2 subs and an aq3500d, then i would agree with BP option but it isnt needed for this install. I would like to add though- if u are tryin to save money, don't go with BP power. If you think u can get a good resale value on them if u got it and decided to sell them, or if u ever thought about using them for burping scenarios and send about 2kw-3kwrms per sub, then get the BP power.

if i were you, i dont care. If the BTLs can handle a true 2000w, then it should be fine. It won't handle it for an entire song at that level but neither will your ears probably either. I like runnin 2-3x rated power on a sub and as long as u know how to set gains clip-free then there's nothing wrong about it. Here is a pic of the design. This is using 2" thick wooden dowels- You will need to extend the port out another 8.5-9.0" but this is what it would look like beforehand- Also, it WILL be double baffle, i just didnt draw that in the pic

ok, it looks like tuning to 32hz, keeping everything flat that after bracing, you are gonna have approx 6.4 cubes NET. If you wish to have more, i will use the original picture that you posted at the beginning to increase some more volume but i think the volume is fine... Running over 4,000w to each sub is probably gonna require each sub to reside in airspace on the low end of FI's recommendation to prevent over-excursion. So, i'm gonna keep buildin this design now. Port will need to be extended out of the box as follows- INTERNAL PORT AREA- 16.5" high x 6" wide. Port length - 8.5" - 9.0" long depending on your preference. Port displacement - 1.12 cubes sub displacement - 0.42 cubes Bracing displacement - unknown right now but will be figured using 2" wooden dowels. GROSS size before displacement- 8.43 cubes Double baffle will be used in this design.

awesome, those were the specs i needed. Ok, after i design everything and get to the port, i'll let you know how far you have to extend it out of the trunk. You can tell by lookin in your car how to do that. I'll try to keep the external port shorter than 12" if possible. Time to get calculatin. This may take a couple days.

ok, let me know if u like the sound of this- Oh and before i go any further, what is the internal width between the wheel wells in your trunk? I want to partially extend the port out of the box so i need to make sure it can instead of hitting the wheel well. Now onto the design idea- From viewing your trunk from the back as like you took the pictures- Box - 52.5" wide laid down as far to the left as possible 18" tall 19.75" deep The remaining 7.5" of space to the right of the box will hold 3 of 6 SP1000s. The remaining 8.25" of depth behind the box will hold 2 RF 4000.1BDs mounted as the width of the amp being vertical one amp behind another. Amp closest to the trunk latch would have 1" clearance. Amp 2 that is behind amp 1 will have 2" separation for heat dissipation. Recap- Each amp is 2.6" tall so 5.25" tall combined + 1" clearance between amp1 and trunk = 6.25" and 2" gap between each amp = 8.25". Now, you will mount these amps to the far left of the box. These amps are 33" long so you will have almost 30" left. the remaining space you have left back there will be for the other 3 SP1000s to mount. So, the batteries will be installed in a 90 degree run- 3 in the back and 3 on the right. The batts are literally RIGHT THERE next to the amps so you should have great voltage at the amp; Now, again, i need width in between both wheel wells AND the width of the RIGHT wheel well. Measure from the far right of the trunk to where i can run straight up through the opening into the cabin area like you wanted to at first. I need to make sure of this because your port will be on the passenger side firing forward. It is a slot port so it will extend up some to save on internal space and i dont want it hitting the wheel well. If u agree to this design and the 2 measurements i need, i'll draw it out for ya.

i remember those subs! awesome subs!whats the rms? 2500w?is this for daily or comp and what is voice coil config?u got the quad coils? just been a while since i've heard of those subs.

Louisville, KY 2007 Scion tC

i wish i could see what they had to offer because most auto parts i buy are direct through the company who makes them except for like brakes which can only be found online from what i've seen so far or at least based where i live.

U must not have gotten the "joke". Suggesting a dual alt setup for such a low powered install is ridiculous.... And on top of suggesting battery isolators... i basically had to quit reading the rest of the posts. I've seen some humorous recommendations but i had to walk away for a while when i read this thread...

hehe, i wish all members were like you. Just straight forward, know what's goin on and just do it... Saves both of us time. OK, the design will start sometime this week. I'll try and have a good show of it to ya with specs by this weekend. Oh, also buy some earplugs too, hehe. It's definitely gonna be crazy loud, just don't run it like that all the time without turnin it down or u will kill the BTLs but runnin this much power is also a physical limitation of being able to handle that power before your ears pop.

When i seen this suggested... i had contemplated on killing myself... but i decided to help a few others, lol

i dont think people sittin in the very back would appreciate it anyways, lol Ok, well should sound good for Audibel Customs. I'm done helpin since this is his house so i'm out.

The 162 sounds logical but not the 177. In my experience, when you meter inside the port, which is at the back of the port so basically inside the box, you shouldnt lose an astronomical amount of pressure from the inside to the outside. Sure you lose alot when you are not running a wall but those who run walls don't meter loud in the port either, On average, what you meter in the port, expect a 15-20db drop in actual legal meter position at the headrest. So, if someone did a 177... then they should have been breaking 160s or very very close... And seeing how hard breaking a 160 is, it would have to be some extremely braced and permanently modified vehicle to achieve such numbers... If that vehicle existed then wow, that's awesome, otherwise he heard wrong. Also, to hit a 177 in the port, again... he would have to be doin close to if not over a 160 with NO WALL... very very hard to accomplish because in port wars, the point of most pressure is at the inside of the box right where the port begins. Ironically, to build more pressure up at this point is to have an L shaped port or to have the port just inches away from a corner where it starts... which add's turbulence and will usually slightly lower spl output due to a requirement for larger port area which lots of people don't take into account.

ok, u gonna need every little bit of that just to get it in an optimum box... Everything else will be left to Audibel Customs for his own enclosure details. So the new dimensions will be- 16" high 40" wide 29" deep Please remember that if 29" deep means the box has no breathing room for the port... that this design will not work.

that's my kinda install, i guess i'll check my car tomorrow and see if i can get the dimensions.

I'll go ahead and tell you that JUST using a double baffle and bracing will leave with 6.5 cubes.... then you must subtract port volume which will drop you to almost 5 cubes NET after all displacements. If you are looking for the most cone area for what room you have, i would suggest 2 12s ported.