shizzzon

OK, lets revive this build log. I need you to post what you are gonna be running in your wall. I need to know the subs, the amps and the batteries that are going to be used. This is the information i got off of your video, if it does not match up to your Aviator, let me know immediately before i start the build process. Baffle = right behind front seat area Height - 42.25" for baffle height, 38" once over the hump. Width - 50" in baffle location, 44" wide throughout the rest of the vehicle. Width 2 - 41.75" wide if box goes to the headliner.. Depth - 37" on the hump, 63" total. 2 questions i have- Depth - am i to assume that you can use 26" of depth in between the hump and front seats? If this is true, how close would the box be from touching the seats? and other question - when measuring from bottom up, how high can i go before the width starts shrinking from 44" to 41.75"? The measurements you did at the VERY back of the vehicle are irrelevant for the box design as you stated your equipment will be installed back there. I just need to be able to draw it out as square as possible without having to contour the design every few inches. The front WILL be bigger than the back, but i do need to know the above questions before i start.

You should feel motivated over here more... The impatient "know-it-alls" over at CA askin you how much it can handle when all you have is wire would make me wanna not build it...lol I'll keep watchin this thread as it progresses. I've already seen 3 very nice products showed off this year- SSA XCON IA Warden Sundown "Monster" Let's see what kind of enlightenment this teaser project gives us once it's put up to the test of reality. I like these builds.

in SPL competition, increasing port area will produce more pressure than being tuned properly! So, let's say your ear is most sensitive to 33hz... You are tuned to 35hz with 20sqin of port... If you lowered tuning to about 31hz then played 33, it would be louder... but If you increased port area to around 35sqin and left tuning at 35hz, playing 33hz would more than likely be louder. If you are gonna build a new box, i do not know the requirements for an optimal box for this sub but from a basic stand point, try this design- 2.2 cube NET, tuned to 32hz with 35sqin of port.

ok, here is some info- Remember, the box is gonna be 52.5" wide x 19.75" deep x 18" tall. These are the external dimensions. When you put this box in your car, slide this box all the way over to the driver side of the car, firing forward and as for forward towards the cabin area as possible until the box hits the wheel well contours. REMEMBER - make sure these dimensions can fit when dropping this into your trunk before building it. Volume information- 8.52 cubes GROSS sub displacement - 0.42 cubes 8.1 cubes GROSS remaining Bracing displacement - (when using all 6 2" dowel runs shown in pic) 0.225 cubes 7.85 cubes GROSS remaining. Port information- 16.5" high x 6" wide. Port wall will run and STOP 6" from the back wall. This means the port wall will be 11.5" long. Because there will now be a 6" wide entrance into the port, this greatly extends acoustical port length and port displacement since the port area is kept the same throughout the port. Port displacement - 1.128 cubes 6.7 cubes GROSS When port is in this state, without the adapter which i'll get to in a moment, tuning should be - 37Hz This will offer a blend of VERY LouD well-rounded bass with, of course, a small drop in the lows but should still pick them up audibly enough to not complain. Now, for the adapter- You get to choose your own length and i'll tell you how long is has to be for a given tuning. Remember, because your trunk angles up going into the cabin, if u wish to use this adapter for low tuned daily driving, you MUST keep the port area 16.5" x 6" the entire time. Here is a generic pic of what the box looks like WITHOUT the adapter- Now, this image is NOT 100% drawn to scale and i'll explain real quick so you can understand. You see here that i have the double baffle drawn on this pic but the front of the baffle doesn't go over the port section.... This is so you can take a port, create a base so it fits over the port to make the baffle flush, then the port will extend out of the box to give you lower desired tuning. The pic only shows 6.75" of width of the baffle missing which to secure a port adapter onto, the missing baffle section needs to be around 7.5" wide so you can attach the right hand side of the port to the internal port wall and some some surface area to prevent air leaks. The left hand side of the port adapter will not have surface area except 0.75", the thickness of the wood that meets with the outside wall of the box. To prevent air leaks in this area, you can use tape when you secure the port adapter or some sort of removable material like speaker foam tape. Here is a rough pic of what a port adapter may look like once attached to the box- You can see how the adapter is completely external and fits perfectly. In real life, the right hand side of the port looking at the box from the front will have a little more baffle missing before you would put the port in so u can make a small amount of surface area on that side for the port adapter to mount onto! Now also on that pic, you would want to secure the port adapter on the side wall of the box as well to keep it strong and stiff. Remember, to seal the port up on the inside with removable, thin material to prevent air leaks and secure it to the box on the outside. Now onto port adapter lengths for tuning frequencies- NOTE - because adding a port adapter will make the front baffle flush with the port adapter base that will partially extend to the right of the port area to secure it to the box on that side, the port base alone makes it flush with the baffle whcih is 0.75" thick so that alone accounts for 0.75" of length. Remember, if i say port adapter needs to be 8" for a given tuning... that's an 8" port adapter if holding the adapter in your hand, you can measure the port as being 8" long, so simple. Port adapter lengths for given tunings- 35 Hz = 3.5" 33 Hz = 7.5" 32 Hz = 9.75" 31 Hz = 12.25" 30 Hz = 15" Now, onto an important note before i give you the last thing you need to know- When bracing, make sure you use exactly the right amount of dowels. also, if you plan on rounding the corners in the box... doing so will decrease internal volume which will increase tuning the more the volume decreases. Typically, if you displace an extra 0.2-0.5 cubes, tuning will go up 2-3hz. OK, last part, subwoofer drilling locations- Lucky for you, i don't have to be super perfect on the location because it's not that mandatory! Just remember this- when looking at the front of the box, you MUST leave 8" of space on the right bare as this will be where the wheel well contour is. On the left of the box, you will have the port opening which measuring from the left wall, to the other side of the port wall equals 7.5". Add another 1" or so for that small section that will be for the port adapter base to secure to so let's say 8.5" So, 8.5" from the left and 8" from the right, that's about 17" knocked off of baffle room you need not use for subwoofer mounting. That leaves you with about 35.5" of width left. The subs are just a hair under 15.75" wide = around 31.25" wide total for both of them, leaving you with about 4.25" of "play room" to mount them on the baffle. That is why i don't need to tell you where exactly to mount them. I hope this answers your box building calculations! When you got it all imstalled, turn it on so i can hear it from here,

in terms of me being done? All i gotta do is give u the specs for the port and sub drill out locations. this week for sure as long as people quit askin me everything, lol

i dont know anything except this talk to mach5audio and see if and what he uses and then, u will need to go buy that sub tester from partsexpress.com (which is a great place to start buying subwoofer parts) and get a real t/s parameter off of your sub so u can have some real info to go off of.

hey, sorry i havent been able to help u anymore yet. I've been gettin swarmed with pms about people helpin them so i'll try and get back to ya today after i reread everything i told u so i know where i left off.

all the songs i have that i find in my collection are mostly underground so don't be surprised if you can't find it... But, a new song that is gettin some pretty big "OMG" attention in the wall is- Natas - Godlike - Shady MF Peaks at 41hz and would like to say that this song peaks higher than any other song i've analyzed in Audacity yet at 26db! with some quick low notes leadin up to the Bang!

put another sub on that amp, sounds like the sub is damaged.

yes, just make sure you choose the right end corretion- For custom flares and slot ports, that's trial and error

sorta, i was trying to use it so i could figure out what i was tuned to.... you can find a port's peak note in low volume since the car's peak note won't interfere with this finding at low volume... however WinISD was still highly inaccurate in this finding. What it is is it can't model every sub out there properly. These DC subs i have and my Audioque's i used to run, winisd said they must be in at least 8 cubes net before the low end would come alive.... Of course that's highly false for a 15. The only thing the program can calculate is port length. Because all other graphs rely on each other for consistent information... if one graph is wrong, all is wrong.

"When Killer Boobs Appear"

i used to own an 88 crown vic... do not get the older style. I had a box in there tuned to 29hz, it broke the trunk latch right off the frame, had to be re-welded. I also had 2 auto shops prohibit warranting my Catalytic Converter on my car after the 3rd one broke within 3 days of having it re-re-reinstalled with a conclusion that the stereo system was damaging it.

if u are interested in ANY design for car audio, do NOT use this program. It cannot give you no where near accurate information. Trust me.... i made a whole topic about it earlier a week or so ago because it was giving out completely false information.

only front to rear for the power run. There should be a fuse right after starting battery, right before back battery and right before amp.

you don't need to upgrade your front battery, just add a single D3100 to the rear, get that 280A alt or the highest possible. Check out DC power alts, they have good pricing. Get dual 200A relays in parallel if getting an alt larger than 220A amp to separate the front and rear batt. When doing big 3, use largest possible wire, 1/0 preferred. When running from front to rear battery, for cheap, run 2 runs of knukonceptz colossus 1/0 or 2 runs of 3/0 ultraflex at weldingsupply.com .

In a Competition woofer: dual 8 gauge per + and -. In a Super Tweeter: 12 gauge In a Mid-bass speaker: 12 gauge In an SQ woofer: single 8 gauge per + and - Power cable for a Competiton amp: as many runs as possible to the batts then the largest size that will fit into the amp.

well lets look at what you said- you allow higher frequencies to play and it sounds "overdriven" so u turn the gain down and there is hardly any lows audibly... Just by analyzing that and nothing else, common problems are- Box not large enough, port tuned too high, crossover points arent set right(for your case- it should be somewhere around - SSF = 25hzLPF = 60-80hz) Also, a bass boost engaged on the stereo, amp or amp's remote can also cause this.

the fuses used before the amp should be the amp's rated fuse or the fuse recommendation in the manual. The fuses used that separate the front from the rear should be used to protect the wire. So - single 1/0 would use 250-300A per run and that is at each end.

resin isn't used to brace a box or to add strength at all. In competition, resin is used for 2 things- 1 - to fill in the small holes of the MDF to prevent air leaks 2 - as a very slick surface. The slick surface allows a small increase in pressure as well.

follow me here- the power line that goes from starting battery to rear battery bank- when the power line first starts leaving the starting battery, there needs to be a fuse within 18" of the starting battery. Now, we make our way to the battery bank. Within 18" of reaching the battery bank, there will be another fuse there. Now, for each amp, there must be a fuse within 18" of the BATTERY that it is connected to also. If you are using multiple power lines from starting battery to battery bank, you will just take the fuse rating and divide it by the number of runs you are using.

yea, power and ground. You need the power hooked up to a relay though, not straight to battery. I would say hook it up to remote turn on on the stereo but u will probably need a relay put on that because i can't guess how much current it will require to power that thing.

can u show me a picture of your existing one? I dont understand how u can only have 1 depth of 5.5 and another of 9.5 when ur existing one is 14.75...

did the cost go down due to the option of a heatsink?

if there is any way to make the box larger, give me the maximum dimensions