shizzzon

accurately would require a dmm, using your eye is decently well enough.... U survived this long, so turning it up any just makes it that much safer.

yea, i had a request to come to a local Midas shop because they wanted to hear my wall BEFORE i even had a port in it yet, just a hole cutout. They asked to turn it up, i blasted a song which peaked at 58hz and shimmered all 5 door bay openings very loud and was told to immediately kill it because the boss, who was right by my car, totally unexpected such power and destruction to occur and caught the attention of people in the waiting room through the concrete wall... They don't want me to come back and play now, i've got it ported now.

Ahh! turn that subsonic back up to the high 20s! The subsonic prevents bottoming out... It's to prevent failure mostly of your subs. It is a high pass crossover. The low pass filter should be just under 100hz. hdrox88- i have heard that termpro makes some software for the car audio box building world but i am 100% unfamiliar with it. Jay-C76 has it so ask him about it.

For competition use - roughly 500sqin minimum to 750sqin maximum For daily use - 336sqin minimum to 448sqin maximum Port area without diamond - 306sqin Port area with diamond - ~360sqin

i have a design that can make the port completely take up the entire middle section of the baffle and then diamond shape the middle in between all 4 subs to gain roughly an additional 50 sqin equaling the BARE MINIMUM of 12.5sqin of port per cube. If that's what u want... then ok but it wil. not be easy to make. If you can properly angle the wood to make it work then i'll go ahead but the port area is small for comp use. And i'll warn you again, the port WILL be hard to make... the port will be right up against all 4 subs to accomplish this port area.

well, your box is definitely within what you said it should be in. So, it didn't hit the lows well? was that the problem? That is odd though, unless the subsonic filter was set too high on the amp. that box should have destroyed your car, hehe.

i dont know really why it is so mandatory but it's HIGHLY possible to get louder without a wall then to use a wall.... if you did not know that! The only reason to go with a wall is to maximize cone area, in my opinion, so u can have plenty of room for equipment(batts and amps) In your case... you have plenty of room for both, but the baffle for a wall says otherwise. A port could still be made, 306 sqin worth, but that's only 11sqin per cube. I'm not sayin this is horrible, it would work and probably without port noise due to the low power(yea, i'm serious) but to maximize your install, the port will be restricting pressure greatly. A box vs a wall- Box will have a loading area to use.. MASSIVE db gains over a wall. Box can be adjusted physically to achieve possibly even higher gains. Box is never permanent install and can be removed relatively easy. Wall has no loading area and only works better as the volume in front of it gets smaller and smaller. (for your vehicle, you would have tons of volume to pressurize). Wall cannot be moved once installed so once it's secured, better hope it's the best design ever... u get what i'm sayin? Wall is permanent in terms of not easy capability of removing quickly. It is very common for non walls to be louder than walls... trust me, for your vehicle and what i'm seeing, a non wall should be better. If you insist otherwise, i will continue with the wall but you will not do too good in competition like you should with the equipment you have, that's a guarantee. Music would be good enough

the only thing i find that is accurate is the port length and that's if you choose the correct end correction.

hey chinbruiser, i just checked, u are right about optimal enclosure size for single 12. So, my next question is, if u still got that box, can u please measure outside dimensions then internal port dimensions so i can be sure of the correct tuning. 35hz seems to be good for the lows which u say wasn't there that much so i must be sure it was built properly.

do NOT use winisd to find the ideal response... It is not correct!

let me go ahead and tell u that L7s needed VERY LARGE enclosures for their size! So 7 cubes for 2 12" L7s is minimal. A single 15" L7 wants over 6 cubes net if i remember right.

u know SPL refers to a design in which usually will sound terrible for music. So, if you want to listen to music... then use another more broad explanation like- I want it to be loud overall or i want it to destroy the low end or i want just a little low end and more louder bass(to the ear) 40-50hz range... Everybody wants loud so it's like a redundant request. If nobody wanted loud, nobody would use an amp or better yet, upgrade over stock period.

we got a problem man, the baffle size isn't large enough for such a largely required port... i have just got done designing the largest squared and expanded squared port and i do not approve of such design as the port area is lacking... I have also designed the baffle for use for 4 or 6" aeroports and they too do not reach their recommended port area either. The expanded squared port just does make it but is a complicated port and do not suggest you try and make it. You may NOT be able to do a wall. I am suggesting it may not be a good idea to try. In that instance, a largely built box would accommodate. I will be talking to a good friend of mine who knows a little bit about suvs and see what he recommends and get back with you.

ok, i'm gonna start drawin out the design. You say you bought 9 sheets of 0.75" thick MDF? Don't be surprised if that's just the half of it! I never try to get people to spend unnecessary money but at the tuning level you will be running, very low, the need to double or triple wall some sides of the box is going to be mandatory. It is of experienced knowledge that using multiple sheets does not necessarily just strengthen the heck out of a wall like you may think, but what it will help greatly is the prevention of resonation on the wall(s) itself. You do not want to be blastin it and the box resonating and flexing like crazy. There will be more to it than just wood, it will just be a while until i get to the next bracing step.

i'll be doing some pressure tests on the driver door soon. I have absolutely no deadening in it and i need to see exactly what the door may or may not need to increase pressure in the car AND prevent further failures inside the door.

i think you should put the sub in a box

So who are we to believe, Kicker or someone else? lol That's why some people may get the same birthsheet.

lol, that shows how strict the new rules are now! So strong, even the current members got logged out just from trying to Agree!!!

ok i found one made by PAC Audio- BG-12 This thing will shut off Anything connected off of it that registers below 11.6v accurate to within 0.1vDC

well, i was hoping nobody directly would ask because i've been hearin that they've been "phasing out" of the car audio world... Why? who knows because it's such a good investment. I use a SMART fuse block made by Cadence. Model number is FH-8. They dtopped makin em a few yrs ago so if u cant find any, that's why. I'll try and find a company that makes something like this and post here if i find one.

that's another point u brought up... Can ECC memory be overclocked.. and by OC i mean just 1 MHz? How tolerant is ECC memory when overclocking? Do popular companies that make OC chips such as Corsair do ECC memory like this too?

i'm no amp repair guy so the info i'm bout to post is random guessing. Without opening it up, it could and very well be the FETs or the power supply that blew. How? excessive current... fuse should pop though... excessive current from low voltage scenario.. Playing for 40 minutes... That can \will heatup the alt and eventually start to decrease it's output capability. Is it possible that the alt's voltage started to drop too low when car was on and pulling all current directly from batt only and eventually dipped too low and caused a low voltage scenario which in turn rushed in too much current inside the amp causing things to blow? It's definitely possible... I would invest in a low voltage shut-off switch. I have one like it. Anything below 12.5v, whatever is connected to it will immediately shut off until voltage rises above 12.5v.

i know this is a little old but u use Xeon for daily processing, games, etc? I always wondered how and what differed from servers cpus vs mainstreamed cpus such as core 2 duo\quad and i7s

oh, word of advice that someone told me when i was building my wall- Don't build your wall based on us, build your wall based on performance. Time = eternity, we don't want to see a quick 1 week wall before destruction happens, we want to see a long standing wall. I've been tweakin my wall now for 3 months goin on 4 months now and still not done yet. Don't rush. Once it's done.. you have just begun...

Also, post price and one more thing- Have you contacted AQ about this? Might be better to just ship it back to AQ and have them recone aluminum coils on for you. See what's cheaper for you, selling or reconing.