shizzzon

go to a fabric store and buy the cheapest material you can find. then just duct tape it to everything in the vehicle while you build it. If you use plastic, use it only on the floor. Plastic will rip easy so when using expanding foam on the sides, the pressure will likely rip the plastic when you try to remove the plastic(if u tried to use it for that)

prostitute?seriously, u must wait until i draw the 3d design out so u can get an "idea" on what u will need

then its ok. i usex 41.25 high and max on 58 wide only.

the internal volume should be about 28-32cubes NET. I didnt really understand the dance floor thing u guys were sayin.. am i gonna have to shrink the box design down? i use 41.25 high for that drawing at 58" wide.

they are stress tested before shipped out. I own a refurbed sax100.4 and have never had problems with it for a year now.

you only need 2 6" aeros. If you were going non flared, you would need up to 80sqin, 2 6" aeros is about 57sqin and is fine. Typical recommendations- 14-16sqin if non flared per cube 9-12sqin if flared per cube This works well in real world builds for music.

winisd may not be able to properly calculate PSP's aero's. Reason being is winisd doesn't know the outer flare size of the 6" port. All it knows is the ID is 6" and is round... newer versions of winisd will allow you to choose flared end correction but i do not know how accurate that is based upon multiple ways to make a flare... I'd just use PSP's calculator since they make em.

Why is it that some companies suggest a larger box for Fart boxes then others recommend smaller boxes for Fart boxes? What's the difference? Why would a large box work for one sub and not another and vice versa?

ok, here is pic, the main internal rectangle in the center is the port opening. The outer 2 vertical lines per side show the port wood thickness BEHIND the baffle. This is to show that the wood will not be in the way of mounting your subs. The circles inside the circles indicate the sub cutout diameter and the outer circles indicate the outside basket size. It's ok to screw a screw into the 1.5" thick part of the MDF, that's why some of the basket's screw points(no more than 1 per sub) hang over to the thickness of a wall. It's also possible if you turn the subs just right, you may not even have to screw a single screw into a wall thickness if you didn't want to.

ok, i'm gonna run the port straight down the middle because you can't keep 58" wide for more than 30" deep... this will hurt competition port placement some but you must remember that you've never competed before and this is mostly for daily use so it shouldnt be that much of a problem, especially with this much port area! I'll show u a pic of the baffle here soon. If you approve, i'll start the 3d design. NOTE- This baffle is being designed at 41.25" high so your dance floor or whatever u gonna use better not interfere with this.

oh that reminds me! You gonna need to tell me an amount of height that you are gonna dedicate to the dance floor! Just to let u know, the shorter the height, the wider it needs to be! This is one reason why i suggested just pure steel.

yes, dont worry bout what all bracing materials u need until i design it for you.the 18s should fit and i cant prove it until i design it.i know your anxious but just give me a couple more hours... then i'll tune to Cinemax tonight, lol

well, from experience, when your wood gets laid, it's usually nasty..so for him to be sharing this with us and pics to come... this build should be on Cinemax

correct, there will be no diamond. Speaking of dance floor, are you even going to use one? I didn't use one on my build but that's because my wall sits on the car frame so it's sturdy. What will you use to distribute the floor's weight making it level and less to no chance of flexing? You can run 1\4" thick steel runs and secure that to the vehicle. The carpenter guy should be able to give u ideas maybe better than me but here is one way u could do it- Run 1\4" thick steel runs (from one side to the other) about every 12" back until you reach the hump in the back. Use wood, 2x4s.. 4x4s, whatever it needs to fit in between your floor and the steel. Secure the steel to the wood, secure the wood to the floor of the vehicle. You shouldnt need any bracing support for the hump area as it's flat. You WILL need to secure the back part of the box though to the floor as well. Should you double up on the port? u can, using 58" width most of the way will allow this i'm almost positive without drawin it out. So, i'll tell u what i'll do- I'll design it with double runs of wood on each side of the port. You will need a God supply of Titebond III, Silicone II, Liquid Nails, and possible 6" L brackets which are $$$ when u gotta start usin over 40 of them, lol. I'll start redesigning later on today.

completely eliminate it. Remember, gotta make sure the height up to 41.25 can accommodate 56" wide and if not, let me know how to build the baffle to redraw it.

ok, if u get 56" wide external, this is the dimensions then for the baffle for the first 14" back so make sure this is right- 56" wide x 14" deep x 41.25" high Make sure u can go the full 41.25" high and maintain 56" width. If not, give me the height adjustment so i can adjust width at certain height points and see what the port area says then.

deaf = 15s, psychological problems = 18s

it would need to be 56" external width the entire depth until you reach the "hump" in the floor. If you can't, then the depth can be as short as 14" but port would be placed straight down the middle which slightly hurts for competition.

for all previous options, maximum port area is 496sqin. for 4 18s, if u squeeze another 6" of width out of that vehicle, it would be 496 sqin.

port length is not the problem, it's port area.

you know, if u could have squeezed and extra 6 inches of width out of the vehicle that u could run 4 18s! If you gotta take your door panels off in the back or something.. u could do it then, just 6 inches of width... You told me 50"... get 56" and then u can run 4 18s.

well, from what i see, if u still do not like it, explain what it isn't doing that u want because i dont see why it isn't a nice;y built box spec-wise unless there is something wrong with the design, amp settings or subs. It could very well be the subs themselves that have the problem...

OK man, i got some designs! And this will ensure a port area of up to 500sqin!!! This will be MASSIVE for comp use, MASSIVE! Easily shrinkable for daily music listening at lower notes! Here is selections- 3 18s = 763.4 sqin 4 15s = 706.9 sqin 6 12s = 678.6 sqin 9 10s = 706.6 sqin Those are surface area comparisons between subs. 3 18s is the ideal choice for best potential in the lanes. personally... if u know how to set gains for both music (safe gain setting which is proper way) and for comp use, CLip the hell out of it without failure, then i'd suggest 3 2000ds at the minimum. If money was a problem, 3 AQ3500ds would be fine. Yes that's excessive power and their is such things as burps and quick show offs. I do not suggest prolonged usage of such power to Xcons for more than a few seconds so it's up to you on the power choice. However, 3 18s would be nice. Because 3 18s requires less room, the wall would not be as deep as you may think leaving plenty of room in the back.

ok, u would pick a test tone such as 27hz, turn head unit up 75% of the way, turn subsonic all the way UP. Put stereo on repeat and start playing 27hz test tone. At first it should be barely outputting anything or it may be outputting a lot... but it will about to be a LOT more in just a sec. Have yourself watch the movement of the L7s while you SLOWLY turn the subsonic back down. When the subs get to a point to where they are moving at a dangerous rate, stop turning it down! If the subs start to heat up, STOP IMMEDIATELY! No dmm to use in this method.

hmm, i was under the impression you already had or purchased the equipment? If not, then give me a moment, Having total control of the design including equipment... just gets better, Give me a few days so i can do rough draft designs before i find the right cone area for a wall.