shizzzon

wanna make sure u are here... I'm about to post up the bracing pic that i think you should do. I'm not gonna draw every little thing but the main part will be here.

32v if going by that method. increase preout on your headunit if your stereo can do that. Dont leave gain at max if that's what you did. Keep head unit volume 75% of max volume it can go. Keep bass and all eq settings at 0.

nice pic. here is specs of box so far- Triple baffled Double sheets throughout. ONLY top portion of port is double sheeted as shown below- Box specs- looking from baffle to rear. (remember, these are all external dimensions) 58" wide x 32.5" high - these dimensions go back 14" On top of that, 50" wide x 8.75" high - these dimensions go back 14" After 14" deep, - 41.5" wide x 41.25" high for the next 16" deep. Once here, 41.5" wide x 38" high for the next 16.5" deep. The box is 16.5" deep on the hump. Elevated to a height of no higher than 38", the box rises above the hump 3.25". Subwoofer Center Positions- These are the center positions of the subwoofer cutouts. GET AS PRECISE AS POSSIBLE The wall is triple baffled so if a slight part of a wall is in view of a cutout, do not worry, sub will still fit as long as it was cut properly at the right spot. Sub order - #1 - Bottom Left #2 - Top Left #3 - Top Right #4 - Bottom Right Following center positions are measured from the bottom left of the baffle. X axis = horizontal Y axis = vertical #1 - x=10", y=10" #2 - x=13.65", y= 28.33" #3 - x=44.5", y=28.33" #4 - x=48", y=10" When making these cutouts, once done, it's wise to place all subs on baffle prior to mounting it to ensure they all fit without hitting each other. If you accidentally cut wrong and one subs is to close to another, you can remove the rubber gasket around the subwoofer freeing up 1\8" of space.

Don't always use it. Ever.

maybe he's tryin to do a sleeper install with his equipment... You better not tell anyone u are running icons in there... lol port size? The port size is the following- Top portion - 11" wide x 19.75" tall Bottom portion - 18" wide x 18.5" wide OK, gotta start thinkin about how this box is gonna be braced. Oh, i haven't told you this yet- As of right now, after sub and port displacement, your box is 30.13 cubes right now. I want it to be close to 28 when done. You should lose, hopefully, about 2 cubes of space after all the bracing and either rounding the corners or doin 45s in the box. Oh by the way... your port takes up 7.6 cubes! Your port is larger than lots of people's boxes!

yep, that's how a plug works. Lucky for you, daily is more forgiving than pure competition is. I would not suggest sealing the plug as it's unnecessary and pointless. Even if there was any air leaks through the plug, the pressure output for daily would have an inaudible difference. You want it so that it can be easily removable. There are plenty of ways to do this without hassle. Those are little things. I'll start working on bracing tomorrow.

the audioque does do rated power so don't start bashing. Both of these amps do rated power so do not forget that. The audioque amp must remain at a higher voltage since it is rated at 14.4v. I'm sure it can do rated power at a lower voltage with lot more distortion but i have always known sundown amps to put out some serious power, rated power or slightly more under 12v. So for those who have top notch electrical systems.. expect sundown amps to put out crazy power.

Competition\Daily use! The port will be double MDF on the top half, the bottom half will be single layered MDF with some pretty nifty bracing. The lower portion port is 333sqin- this is the DAILY port tuned to ~ 30hz. The top portion gets plugged and hwo it gets plugged is pretty neat too... there is a reason why the top is double sheeted... it's part of the plug bracing. The top portion of the port is 217.5 sqin. When the plug is removed, it will be tuned around 37hz with 550sqin of port! Massive!

ok tell me what you think -

yes, of course pay no attention to all the breaks in the wood and pay no attention to exactly how all adjacent pieces join together... It's easier to draw it like that because for those who actually build boxes, we can just look at the pic and know where to break a run of wood.. common sense, lol. I'm gonna try and build the subs and port right now so the only thing left is bracing... So dont go anywhere yet!

i will be posting box dimensions once everything has been done...

Boxie Box before details have been added- Now workin on details... Stay tuned throughout the weekend...

you'll get to see the BOX, nothing else, but just that is pretty nice enough for the time being while i get more precise numbers...

got over 70% of the box designed After i get it all designed, i will post it up. then i will take another day or 2 to put the finishing touches on it. I'll go ahead and tell u guys that the pic i'll be postin up soon will NOT show the subs or port... just the box design. The subs, port and bracing is an artistic part of the design and takes time.

gimme a day or 2 to draw it out. I'm tryin to draw it out in 3d right now.

hmm... what did i just come up with??? I dont know?!?! Is it possible that i was just able to produce a port area of 550sqin? Nah i couldnt have..... could i? Mouth dropping port area for comp use? hmm... What about daily? Well, that's easy... you physically can't listen to it at that level due to the way our ears perceive sound at incredible pressure levels... 330sqin of port sound like enough for daily? I believe it's doable! that is 12sqin per cube which is fine for daily, Eager for the results? How did i do it?!?!?! I'll show it all to you once the design has been laid out in great detail.

OH.. hmm... i thought you couldnt do that... well, now i've gots lots of ideas...

i run almost 2kw on just the Level 4 so i'd imagine if u keep it under 2500, level4 should be fine. anything higher and under 4kw, i'd probably say the XL. I run ridiculous amounts of power to my equipment but i also know to properly setup and monitor everything without worrying so if you do not know how to exactly, i'd run a XL if under 2500w and Level 5 for anything more.

i think it's blurry because you guys are gettin too nervous about the pressure level to come, haha. I'm not sayin anything yet but i just made a WICKED design for your port... i gotta do some more work to it to determine the final outcome but i think you will like! I will say this, off the top of my head, it will be 30hz daily, and comp port will be stationary tuned to about 37hz... meaning these will be the only 2 tunings available... i'm still workin on tinkerin it to see what else i can do but once i post up info... it will be a lot of it!

When you do designs for people for free and teach them how to do it to save them the $1000+ fee a shop would charge to do it... When your pressure reading and your temp gauge read a like the first couple minutes from a startup. When voltage is more important than tires...

yea, not makin the box larger... but definitely need about 2 full inches if u install the outer nut after installing the top of the box if u can reach it!! If u can't... u would have to put it on before securing the top to the box which is even harder. Don't worry, if it's near impossible, there's other methods, just not as strong as steel,

hmm... I was wanting to run allthread vertically in your box... That would need to stick out of the box. Only other way is to use 3\4" huriricane or t-nuts and to be honest... i dont think they come that large. I guess in some places, gonna have to use other non-penetrating bracing.

ok, so i build it to be no higher than 41.25" high, exactly how much more space above that do i have in the center of the headliner height-wise?

no it's of no importance. make sure you are using a LEVEL when doing these measurements. So, the most i can get is 58" wide up to no more than 32.5" correct?