shizzzon

ok, i'll try and explain how they work later on this evening after i get off work.

well every alternative is gonna be expensive.. look at the example, lol it's over 20,000w of power!

who is chris fryman?

no, unless i've been lied to my whole life.

ok they called me after they closed.. nice people explained everything yada yada yada, i will post what i gathered in a new topic in the Amps\electrical section.

Mechman suggests i set my alternator to 19.2v if i upgrade to 16v. Will this voltage be safe for Sundown amps that are capable of running 18v?

ok here is the original video... again, lol Keep in mind, this was back when there was no port in it the wall.

i did, it was on one of these pages in this build log.. Oh well, i'll post it again, lol hold on

got another vid, not really as funny as the other one but at 1:45, you get to see this guy's shirt movin pretty good inside on the passenger seat. I was 5 parkin spaces down when some girls started doin dance moves in their car.. i've heard i can be felt from aways...

if u need to fix it immediately, go get some Silicone II CLEAR version. Unscrew the sub(s) and run a pretty large ass bead around the mounting point. You can get it in the screw points cuz the torq on drills should be strong enough to remove the screw easily. Once large ass bead is applied, lol, set sub back in place and let it cure overnight. If you have time to kill, order some speaker foam tape at partsexpress.com and run it around the underside of the speaker. That way you won't have sealant all over your sub(s).

u will need 2 deka intimidators. There model number is 9A31. You will need a 250A alternator preferrably. A 200A will work but not for yearly long term use every day u jam on it. You will have to give the alt a break every now and then.

i spent a few thousand on 2 12s and 2 aq2200ds bout a year ago... If u wanna save some money, don't replace your starting battery if there's nothin wrong with it. For people on a tight budget, i'd do the following- Stock battery, DC Power alternator, Deka intimidator in the back, 2 dekas in the back if u got more than just that sundown back there. 2 dekas = $360 = 200aH

the D3100 is 117aH, slightly higher float, their forum is on this site, very nice company and goes for $330 shipped

here is new video, lol- This guy hates my car because he thinks i'm crazy stupid for how loud it is... He's funny though, he didn't wanna be in there at all at first but then when we talked him into it... he had to keep his ears covered.... Wimp, lol

i never told u guys the results of the pressure tests- Well, with the passenger door open, the car acts EXACTLY like a box and the passenger door being open as a port. Back pressure is at it's greatest opposite the port, which would be the driver side of the car. Every time i braced driver window, driver door, sunroof on driver side only.. Anything on driver side, the pressure went up! If i tried to duct tape weather stripping areas to prevent air from coming out.. i drop pressure. If i pressed on the sunroof in the middle, pressure would drop. It HAD TO BE on the driver side only. My driver door is not deadened yet... I was talkin with a competitor and was warning me about deadening the door with anything saying that even if it prevents flexing that it will more than likely lower peak note and hurt the score... I may need to use foam instead or nothing, dont know yet. I'm gettin close to runnin out of pressure increasing ideas. I got a few more port tricks i gotta test then the only thing left that i know of is... more power... Oh... stay tuned... new video is being uploaded in 60 seconds!

i swear if he picks you as the winner i quit...

no, hehe, most agms float between 12.8-13.2v I know XS powermasters float around 13.1v because i use them. I've seen both Kinetik and Deka's only float at 12.8-12.9v. This is with car off. Point being is this- The higher the float, the higher your voltage will be if your alternator runs out of juice. Also, it's apparent that because they float higher, they got more reserve in them...

well harrison labs is slower than a Kia... I've called them all day and left a message and it appears that company just doesnt exist... Good thing i didnt need an rma today... i'd be pissed... I guess i'll start emailing them now.

it might float lower. I've noticed cheaper priced batts like kinetik and deka intimidators float slightly lower than more expensive batts do.

When you go by your screenname in real life

when your vehicle looks like a custom all-electric vehicle when in reality it's not driveable...

not when comparing capacity to capacity...from what i've heard, the 100a fluxs are around 200 per cap.i'm still trying to find a dealer...so 2 100a caps is cheap than 4 d1000s which is $1000.i'm gonna be contacting harrison labs today about all this.

actually they make em over 1000A, they just don't show them on that page.

I have another question... I notice that you have 2 100A fluxcaps and 6 d1000s (300aH) Isn't doin it that way the same in a sense as runnin 2 200A fluxcaps, 2 d1000s and about 2 D3100s behind the fluxcaps? I'm tryin to do this the cheapest way because 16v batts are expensive. If i have a large 12v battery bank behind the fluxcaps, would this be sufficient in running 400A worth of caps off of a 250A alt and a couple D1000s for when the current draw exceeds 400A?

just run led strips all the way around the inside thickness of the port... that's easy. just find their brightest NARROW ANGLED LEDS for the upper portion of the port and WIDE ANGLED LEDS for the lower portion. If u use narrow angled on the bottom, the light wont disperse enough. If u use wide angled towards the upper portion, the light will be very dull and not bright looking.