shizzzon

like i said before, 2 12s, STOP suggesting 15s unless he plans to run 1. Port and sub displacement alone for 2 15s is around 1.5-2.5 cubes leaving around 4-5 cubes NET...

i use just a PAC Audio remote gain controller to control both my 3500ds together. I just gain match them properly first then i'm good. if that rockford device can do it then it'd be fine. You must have patience because gain matching is stressful on the subs. You must have all 4 amps going at once and start tuning them while in play... If you don't want to do that, the maxxlink may be a better option for you.

all it is is taking 1 main signal and dispersing it to your amps. It's remote control controls all 4 amps at once. It also is a line driver just in case u have a low signal. People who gained by using this means that they didn't have there amps gain matched. If you read through my build log i gained pretty good number just by properly gain matching my amps. People who run multiple bass amps sometimes think the gain control should be set in the same position for all amps... this is false. That is probably why most people gain due to that false belief.

yes. Just gotta realize that there will be sealant on the sub when you pull it out. If u ever want to sell the sub, gotta get the goo off before the buyer thinks speaker pr0n is the real thing!!

it doesnt matter, you STILL need 2 D3100s, lol. The variation in current draw is less than 15A on average

it's not glue, it's sealant. all you would have to do is just give it a little tug and the sealant will "unbond" with the sub.

For someone who thinks batteries all the time(me), u ever heard of Rolls Surrette batteries? As far as my knowledge goes, they make the LARGEST batteries i have ever seen in my life. 375aH 12v Group 8D battery! 2 8vs in series- 846aH = over 840lbs of weight! I do not know the prices because they must be personally requested but their batts are field serviceable! ALL cells in all their batts are bolted together! Meaning if a single cell ever died, you can unbolt it and replace it with a new 2v cell.

LOL... You KNOW you have a car audio addiction when the electric forklift at your work dies and have serious discussions about the capability of rewiring the batts in your car to a higher voltage rate so u can dump the charge from your batts into your work's forklift to keep working, haha.

i hope u havent got the 18s yet... The room you have would be perfect and "louder" for 2 12s! If u already got em.. i'm done...

there have been some that were custom made for somebody. Reason being is the motor is wider than the sub itself so you would have to do some fancy mounting.

at 2 ohm! OH NO!!! hehe. At 2 ohm for the 125 and bridged on the 100... you would need 235aH

if u need anymore, link is in my sig. I got way more than you can handle.

the "rule of thumb" is to take your fuse ratings on your amps, divide them in half and that's your aH requirement. I added 60aH more for the car's starting batt as that's about average. The 100.4 and 125.2, i'm sure you are gonna be running those at 4 ohm so i took half it's rated power at 4 ohm rather than the fuse rating.

Alpine IVA-W505. Just go buy the Blackbird II whenever... Gonna run ya just over $1000 after the gps add-on but Alpine is the way to go...

try to save ya some money- This company is great for AGM use - http://store.schumachermart.com/sc-1000a.html don't just go to a local store and buy an agm charger... some charge over 15v and isn't safe and some charge close to 15v constant which slightly degrades life of agm batteries as well. This is the cheap alternative to spending a fortune on a suggested charger.

i'm sure it can with a minimal 200A alt, preferably a 250

That's not wise for longevity. Did they change the rectifier, cooling, etc...? If all they did is rewind it like nearly all local shops do then yea, it will do the amperage at max output, but idle will be VERY BAD compared to reputable companies and heat buildup will be worse than having one built from start.

that goes to show u how undercharged they were using stock alt. Using stock alt and only reading 13.1 as soon as alt is shut off is BAD... Either the batts were heavily discharged or the regulator was on the verge of breaking.

if replacing the stock battery, you will need the following- 200-220A alt, 2 D3100s Or 200-220A alt and a minimum of 220aH of battery total in the car. Remember, try and never jam at idle. The more reserve you have in batts, the longer it takes to charge and more risk u run of overheating alternator if batts are discharged low.

try 40ft at 4.5ft wide. Not all fabric comes in the same width so figure out the area.

box was too big, port too big, subsonic set too low... Sounds like you bottomed out your sub and damaged it. Power ratings on speakers are thermal ratings, not mechanical. Companies cannot give you mechanical ratings EVEN if they told you what box to put it in because there are still other variables involved such as amp settings, impedance rise, box dimensions for volume suggested, etc...

get soem cheap priced fabric. I bought 4.5ft wide x 24ft and used it all in my car so u will need lot more than that.

i didnt really understand the last part of your comment but we have team meets every other weekend and we personally metered his setup for kicks because he usually runs a single Adassa Warlord in his setup but that's in for repairs at that time. He got the Saz-2000d from a friend who is also building a 10kw+ install who is also a long-time competitor. The guy i am referring to with the 2 18s is snoopdan if u ever heard of him... He's got his own site and has been in the lanes for a few yrs that i know of. With the help fo their knowledge and things i test myself, we are all not part of a team, we all are just friends who help each other. Some info, we keep to ourselves, And walls, i ONLY suggest people run walls if they intend on bassracing or just plain have to to get the most cone area in the vehicle. Walls have no loading area so their cabin gain can drop by over 50%! For straight burps, walls are a horrible choices especially for single or dual subs. If you are referring that the OP's wall is tuned to 24hz... well, he has low port area, that is the whole reason it's hard to get loud. Tuning really isn't hurting that much. You can be tuned wrong and still peak at car's peak.

ok this is my understanding of how they work- Back to the Future The End... Ok, now onto another understanding of how they work- Fluxcaps are used to maintain constant output voltage until they get overloaded. Once they reach their maximum current capability, their voltage begins to drop. The 12v electrical system supplies the power necessary for these fluxcaps to work. So, if you have a single 100A fluxcap that is set to 18.5v output, that means that it will pull current from the alternator and, if necessary, the battery(ies) to properly get the current it needs to step up the voltage. Fluxcaps are rated by their output capabiity, they draw more than what they put out. So, if you have a single 100A fluxcap rated to do 18.5v, based on a constant 14.4v output, it would pull 130.4A after it's 1.5% loss due to efficiency. They rate these fluxcaps at 98.5% efficient. So, single 100A would pull 130.4A at 14.4.. If you had a bank of these fluxcaps, eventually, the alternator would NOT be able to supply all the power.... so you would need a 12v bank of batteries to compensate. So, let's say someone was running 4 of these 100A caps at 18.5v output off of a 250A alternator. Let's assume that only 200A could be supplied to it before it fell to the surface charge... at 13.0v. Let's also assume that average voltage was 12.9v until the draw ended. It would require 145.5A per cap to supply the 18.5v. These amp requirements are maximum requirements to produce maximum continuous current rated output from these fluxcaps. So, now that you know that- fluxcaps can be viewed, in a sense, as an alternator because whatever is supplying the highest voltage is what supplies the power. If the fluxcaps are not being overloaded, then when current demand is requested, it is sent straight from the 12v alt and if not enough, through 12v battery(ies) through the fluxcap(s) and over any 16v batt that may exist straight to the amp. If the fluxcap(s) are being overloaded, just like an alternator which can't supply the current load, the voltage will begin to drop on the output side of the fluxcap. Just like an alternator, it can\will damage the fluxcap if doing this constantly. At the point the voltage drops low enough, amps will then pull power from any 16v battery that may exist. If you have a bank of fluxcaps that require more amperage than what the 12v alt can handle AND you have at least 1 16v battery after the fluxcaps and at some point the fluxcaps become overloaded.... multiple will occur once the overloading ceases. For one, the alt will now be required to recharge the 12v battery(ies) that can to suffer providing large current to the fluxcaps for a high ass demand. Not only that but it's now gonna take even more current to be passed through the fluxcaps to charge any 16v battery(ies) back there... Hehe, so u see how this can end bad if not paying special attention to a setup like this. the alt would try to supply max power, when revved high enough that is, to the 12v batt(s) AND the 16v batt with wasted current through the fluxcaps... what would end up happening now is the alt would again be maxed out and the fluxcaps would start to drain the 12v bank to charge the 16v bank.... Eventually something will die, lol. So, point of this is, there comes a time where a single alternator can only charge so many batts due to a MASSIVE discharge and will eventually die if left discharged too long trying to recharge all this equipment. In my opinion, IF someone wanted to run a single alternator and let's say 2000A of discharge current on the 18v side.. knowing that you must have a massive 12v and a somehwat bank of 16v or vice versa, do NOT let the fluxcap come back on when the car is started and drive at very low rpms to prevent max alt output to try and charge 12v bank. Battery charger would be 105% mandatory in this scenario. I hope u see how these work now. I'm not downing them in terms of them being terrible choice, i'm trying to get as detailed as possible because there is LOTS of responsibility when running these for 18v installs. By default, they come set to provide a constant 14.7v but can be custom tuned to higher voltages... If one needed a constant 14.7, then all the batteries would be before the fluxcaps because it takes more current to maintain voltage. So, if someone has a LARGE bank of batteries for a large install, these would be awesome to have and able to burp at a constant 14.7 rather than 13.0 or lower if u didnt have 100s and 100s and 100s of amps for alternators.

i dont know exactly what u are hitting and your note and all that but this is what i do know- You have 2 18s in 14 cubes net with 140sqin of port area tuned to 32hz. I'm gonna assume that is actually correct and you are now running a SAZ-2000D. For starters, you probably gained a lot because your amps previously weren't gain matched probably. Now, onto the present- Wrong tuning does not hurt your score as much as wrong port area does. If you are serious about burping... you need 250-375sqin of port area. That's one thing that will tremendously help. If you want to continue tweaking things without modifying the wall, then try this- Passenger door open, brace outside driver side of vehicle with as many fat people as possible. take driver door panel off. u need to find your note for sure as well. Try and plug your port as best as possible and run a sweep at near max volume on a tlab so u can see what the car's peak is. i got a competitor local to me with 2 18" RE SXs off of a single saz-2000d in a wall doin 151.7 @36hz at the headrest on a tlab.