shizzzon

have u tried porting just 2 of those 12s.... You be surprised how much more efficient ported is than sealed.

ok thanks

That's not what i am inquiring. When the fuse pops, the line is broken. When current is still being drawn, at some point, some split second time, the amp's input terminals will suffer from a very low voltage situation due to no power present. Pretty much the same way as blasting the stereo then just turning the car off immediately. Low voltage protection on amps doesn't necessarily mean that it can never get damaged from low voltage. I've never seen anyone talk about this and am curious.

You want to see a glimpse of real-time gaming interactivity? Check this video out- http://www.youtube.c...h?v=dWnZOseA3Lw So, just how much of your body get's used in the game? All of it? check here- Showing the true capability of this new technology for video gaming compared to the Nintendo Wii (i think MS is talkin ****) - http://www.youtube.c...h?v=vTtlM0v7iLs And then finally... the final video showing all sorts of different interactivity...

need to know if it's dual 2 or Dual 4 ohm. It's rated to handle 1000w musical peak so you will want a 750w-1000w amp.. but still need to know ohm configuration on your sub.

from Judge Judy - "Put on your listening ears!"

maybe try different strapping rca cables... That's the only thing different... From what i remember, use some basic cables, most high end cables tend to have problems sometimes.

go to the link in my sig, download part 1, then extract with Keep Broken files checked

whereas you may be right because i've never owned or used a mac, after doing enough research, i found the solution- CUDA technology + Toshiba's SpurEngine + my current quad core OC system. Installing an nVidia video card with CUDA support and a pci card with Spur'sEngine capability, encoding times increase by over 400-550%. It allows the video card, the pci decoding chip and the quad core processor to all tackle a video at once!

u can get the sundown 4500 cheaper than that right now

music should not be assumed is as dynamic as you claim it to be. It purely depends on how it's recorded. I have tons of music that are recorded at near full amplitude and others that are far off. I also have tons of custom made music i use for testing and bassrace purposes so music may be dynamic, but not as dynamic as what some may it is for everybody... it depends what you are listening too. Also, i looked at that chart just now, according to how the chart increases amperage with shorter distances, there's no way a single 1/0 cable could carry 1000A.. you'd be lucky to get 500A out of it. That means either massive voltage drop or fire... and this is going by that chart. Also, that stetsom amp doesn't run on 18v either so everybody would have a problem playing it like that.

correct me if i'm wrong here but would the 14,000w stetsom amp not be able to produce no where near that power for daily use? For a single power\ground run, i can't see it doin it for daily without the wire melting... I'm surprised they chose that route for just burping as well. I don't know how many amps a 1/0 cable can take for just a few ft distance but most manufacturers decide to go with dual power\ground where operating amps close to or over 5kw.

that's to get your attention on the thread, lol. I only view this device as a step-up transformer and isolator, nothing else. That's all i ever described it to be regardless that they say it's a cap as well. Also, it is the only step-up transformer i know of for the 12v market capable of outputting in excess of 100A at virtually any voltage between 14-20v for it's price. Prove me wrong show me another one capable of doing this for less money that can also isolate 2 electrical systems from each other.

If you do not know what these are, i'll explain it then go into great detail about the design application and see if it's what you want... Fluxcaps are not fake, this isn't a movie joke, it is an actual device name given to a special capacitor that does many things- It is a Battery isolator, Voltage Booster!, and capacitor all in one. Standard versions put out a constant 14.7v(some restrictions may apply...) but this topic isn't for 14.7v... this topic is for 18v electrical system. This device can be used on a stock or aftermarket 12v electrical system to bump up the voltage all the way to be able to charge or run an 18v electrical system to get the most power out of your amps that support such voltage. So, how does it work, how much does it cost.. well here is what you are looking at- These fluxcaps come in 3 typical models, 50A, 100A, 200A. I was told to go with 100A with typically any design regardless of power output because they are the cheapest to make. So.. let's get down to price, because 16\18v setup is NOT CHEAP! Let me explain how they work then i'll form an example of how much money it takes to run an 18v electrical system. Let's say you have 2 100A flux caps wired in parallel, so 200A total. They pull about 127A per 100A fluxcap to produce 18.5v @ 100A output. They state that they will limit the current throughput but you can also damage them if it needs more current for high demands for constant use... so it's a catch 22... They told me that when you max out the flux caps capability of outputting currenr, any more current required will cause the rated voltage output to start dropping! so it wil start to go down from 18.5 and keep going. What this allows is for any 16v batts u have to compensate once the voltage reaches low enough. So, the alternator provides the power to make these fluxcaps up convert to 18.5v. If your altnernator can't handle it, u will need a 12v battery bank behind the fluxcaps to compensate for current demands through the fluxcap. If the voltage input gets too low cuz you are depleting your batts, it will shut down. You can also use them as like an 18v alternator in a sense. You can run high output 12v alternator, stock batt if u want, couple flux caps and a massive 16v battery bank. I only suggest doing this for burps or very short blasts for daily use! If u have lets say 2 100A flux caps, 200A alt, stock battery, 8 16v batteries and 1000A worth of fused amps in the back. Your peak note pulls 600A of current. When you burp, the alternator will max out trying to supply 200A of current output through the fluxcaps. If it runs out of juice, it will pull the rest from the 12v battery. The fluxcaps then will sense that it needs another 400A of current that it just can't do so it's output voltage will drop to that of the 16v battery bank. The 16v battery bank will supply the other 400A of current until the burp stopped. Once the burp has stopped, the fluxcaps now will act like an 18v alternator trying to charge the 8 16v batts back up. If it pulls more than it's needed input recommended fuse rating of ~127A per 100A fluxcap constantly.. it will damage it! Also, the more current it tries to put out at or near max potential, the more it's voltage output will decrease.... another catch 22 for it's intended use. They recommend putting a fuse on the input line because if there is not fluxcaps in the setup to run the ENTIRE audio system by just flux caps and 12v batts behind the caps powering the caps, then the fuse will blow and prevent the caps from overloading. That's kinda retarded really.... So, if u use them to run a whole setup, gonna be $$$, if u use them for battery charging, can only use them for few minute durations if batteries need a long charge. voltage wil drop as duration continues at full tilt and will eventually blow a fuse to prevent overloading.. So, just how $$$ are these? Each 100A cap is $400! So, let's see what's cheaper- Let's say we want to achieve 20,000w of power. Our amps can handle 18.5v for this example. Our amps right now are rated for 3500w at 14.4v, or 6,500w at 18.5v. Each amp is $700. Here we go- 12v 250A alternator - $500 18v 250A alternator - $500 We will need 6 of these amps to produce 21000w @ 14.4v 6 amps - $4200 Now for math sake, let's match batts to amps in terms of 50% fuse rating = aH capacity of batts for a proper comparison of 12v vs 18v. So, 6 of these amps has an 1800A fuse rating, so we want 900aH worth of 12v batt- 8 D3100s = $2640 ($330 per battery) Ok, let's round up the pricing here- I'm not countin the alternator as it will always be the same price for both electrical systems. Amps = $4200 Batts = $2640 Total = $6840 Now let's look at the alternative - For a pure 18v system, you need stepdown transformers because they only do 25A continuous, 50A peak per unit. Let's say we have 250A worth of fusing to run mids and highs and to run the car! Car = 50A average, mids\high amp = 125A average use out of mids n highs amp totaling = 175A continous to be safe! step down transformers - $115 each, need 7 of them so - $805 4 amps at 18.5v does 26,000w yay!, lol = $2800 4 amps has 1200A fusing so we need 600aH worth of batts... 12 D1000s - ($250 per batt) - $3000 Pricing time - Transformers - $805 Amps - $2800 Batts - $3000 Total - $6805 That's a $35 dollar savings plus 5000w extra watts... However, what if u already have a 12v high output alt? You would then have to buy an external regulator and labor charge TWICE to have it uninstalled, shipped back, then reinstalled ~ $300 more... Now you are looking at $7105. Now let's look at Fluxcaps! 4 amps at 18.5v does 26,000w = $2800 4 amps has 1200A fusing so we need 600A worth of flux caps! ahh!!! 6 100A flux caps = $2400 12v battery bank to supply demand - 5 D3100s (585aH + high output alternator)= $1650 2 16v D1000s to compensate for over current demands beyond 600A - $500. Pricing roundup- Amps - $2800 Fluxcaps - $2400 12v battery bank- $1650 16v battery bank - $500 Total - $7350! wow... Now let's look at the alternative- Still using flux caps, just VERY FEW of them and a large bank of 16v batts. 4 amps at 18.5v 26000w = $2800 1 D3100 behind fluxcaps = $330 2 100A Fluxcaps = $800 need about 600aH of capacity, fluxcaps already taken care of 200A worth, so we need 400A of 16v battery. 8 D1000s = $2,000. Price time - Amps = $2800 All batts combined = $2330 Fluxcaps = $800 Total = $5950! So we have a winner, running massive 16v bank with low numbered flux caps saves the most money... Problem here though is you can ONLY do this for short durations. Once the flux caps are overloaded, they will be on the verge of their fuse popping. Regardless if fuse pops or not, if u are drawing several hundred amps of current, the voltage drop will be at the batt's float or lower! So, running less fluxcaps is somewhat risky because even when the burp is done, it will want to charge the batts back up risking another overload scenario and possibly blowing out a fuse. So, to run the cheapest alternative is after the burp, to disconnect the turn on wire and manually charge the 16v bank on a REAL charger ONLY if the fluxcaps can't handle the load due to the battery bank being to discharged.

no, hehe, ok now all three of us are gettin confused here... M5, i was talkin to tirefryr because i didnt want to use a more "common" type anology because different solutions could be used so i had to go crazy with the anology. I wasn't referring to you. But again, (///M5), i've never talked about how to use them as a capacitor and neither did Hlabs. It was purely for the step-up transformer portion of it's description.

if the comparison is resulting from available box size, only the woofers in the proper box will excel.

i hope u didnt think that was a real anology

oh, i hope you aren't viewing these as capacitors! Yes they call them fluxcaps and yes, even the description of them state that one of the features of them is a capacitor but the research i was doing had absolutely nothing to do with capacitors in what you are referring to. I actually did standard 12\14v cap research after i was researching this and came across an article that proved how much capacitance one would need to actually gain something by using caps... The discharge states that is you have a 50farad cap, that if you discharge 50A of current for 1 second, the cap will drop 1 volt. So 100A would be 2 volts for 1 second and so on.. For somebody like me who only has a 0.8v drop on my burp note for spl competition, i would need about 750Farad of caps just to roughly equal my 0.8v drop for 3 full seconds... 750farad? vs 2 batteries... hmm... i think we all know the better choice here. This is another example of when to use flux caps- Now keep in mind that my focus is for competition. Because it takes a lot of power for our ears to hear an increase of power, using fluxcaps to increase the power for daily driving as the primary purpose is a waste of money.. Now, here is another example to use flux in competiiton- Let's say that you don't want the 18v step up install, you just want standard 14v so you don't have to mess with all these different batteries. Well, for example sake, let's say you own a small 4 cylinder car and that car has 100,000w worth of amps in it. That little car could not possibly have enough alternators to run that setup so it would do it with the vehicle off of course. Let's say the burp note is pulling 3,000A of current. Well, lol, let's say we have 3,000aH worth of battery in the vehicle. (wow, this i'd like to see, ) When the burp starts, the battery bank will more than likely suffer a 1v drop after a couple seconds so the amps would only see about 12-12.2v from a float of 13-13.2v... So again, the batts are only seein right at around 12v flat... If we wanted the batts to see 14.7v.. we would have to have enough alts to run it.... OR enough fluxcaps and 12v batts to do the conversion. For this example, at 3,000A draw, (100A fluxcaps have a 150A quick discharge for them so...) you would need a minimum of 20 100A fluxcaps and about 4,000aH (guessing) worth of 12v batts. Point - sticking with 12v system- if you have the room to fill an area full of batts, WAY more than what you need but need higher voltage when car is off or not enough alternator to keep up... use those extra batteries that you can fit in the vehicle for the fluxcaps to up the voltage so u get more power to the amps.

well, if this info still isn't satisfying, you can always email them or call them.website is www.hlabs.comthey told me that their car audio market is really more geared toward the military these days.sundownz also owns a couple. you can inquire some info from him too.

i thought line drivers were proven not to help in competition? If they do then i'll buy one..

is 8hz like a strict note not to go below or just a personal preference? from what u say, i'd assume that 10hz is pretty important, hehe, so i'll be sure to keep that in mind.

acoustastuff would be a wise suggestion for increased low end, make it common chamber, need as much internal space as possible. Minimal bracing will suffice, nothing crazy and no fiberglassing necessary either. make sure the box is LOOSELY stuffed, do not squeeze acoustastuff(bought from partsexpress.com) or it will decrease internal air space. Loosely pack about as much as possible until you reach the subs then stop. You want most of the volume filled in it. If you want to keep pullin the subs and and back in to test different sounds with the stuff you can but the volume should mostly be loosely filled. DO NOT use it for ported because the box is WAY too small for it to help. waste of potential to even try.

Fi doesnt even recommend sealed but the size of box you would have would be on par for some 15s sealed, just a tad bigger than 2 typical 15s sealed. I'm sure it will play lows but nothing crazy. I'm tellin ya, he made a very bad mistake. He needs to sell them and get 2 12s, ported if he wants the best for his space. Otherwise anything i or anyone else that properly suggests other options is gonna be on the "not recommended but try it" side.

huh? If you bought the maxxlink, you'd only have to tune 1 thing, if u don't buy it, you have to tune each amp at a time while it's blasting... Oh, and while it's cranked, once all 4 gains are set, you must go back and recheck them and by then, i hope the subs aren't cookin yet. What you need to do is turn gains just past half way so they are all outputting some hefty power. That way they are all doing there job so to speak with slight variations. If you keep the other gains down while tuning one at a time, they wont be gain matched right at all! It's tricky... Drive down to KY, i'll gain match em, hehe.

Seal them is your only option. If you port those, the tuning peak will be in the 60s probably.