shizzzon

my opinion- If an amp needs a fan, then the heatsink it's in isn't good enough and WILL overheat. An amp designed without a fan and has been out for a while with no heat issues is in a good heatsink.

reread my post, i edited out part of the subsonic part for good reason.

set the subwoofer setting on +15, bass on 0. Now go to amp- Turn subsonic filter straight up in the middle, turn low pass filter to around 70-90hz. Turn gain all the way DOWN, on the remote control, turn it about 3\4 of the way UP. Now, play a test tone, let's say 50hz and start turning the gain up until the clipping light just barely comes on. When that happens, you are done, that's easy. Now, you can play your music at up to volume 27 and for music, you "may" be able to turn remote all the up. some music peaks higher but i want you to set it at 3\4 so in some instances you can turn it up higher for some music. It's ok if the clipping indicator flashes or blinks or rapidly blinks(but only for short durations). If the clipping indicator ever stays solid red, turn it down! that's how subs get damaged, heat buildup is bad. Once you are done with this, you can slowly turn the subsonic back down using a low tuned note like 25hz. Keep turning it down at volume 27 until the sub moves at a massive level. Once the sub has reached what YOU think is a dangerous level, stop turning it down. Remember - when u start setting volume to 27 to begin the subsonic setting at 25hz, make sure it's not moving dangerously before volume 27 or at 27 before turning the filter down more!

Got a new video, lol... My friend's little cousin offered to sit in the car in the driveway for a few seconds... I warned him prior to sitting in but he wanted to hear anyway... That didn't last long...

the audioque amp comes with a clipping indicator on the remote. If u didnt get the remote, go slap your friend then make him give it to you. Soon, you may be a battery back there but you'll see if that's right or not after it's installed and ran for 1 day to 1 week.

i know nothing but this- cheap priced alternators are cheaply built... for a 240A alt, i'd expect a minimum of $400.

tell him that it is unsafe to power a system of that power with the vehicle off using a stock alternator. Depending on the battery drain and amount of batteries in the vehicle, the alternator could overheat trying to charge them back up once vehicle is back on. High output alternators are also not capable of prolonged peak output either but at least with a high output alt, it would charge faster, same rule applies so make sure he knows that. with just a stock alt, he would want about 85aH in the back next to the amp.

And how do you know the Cyclone is the only sub that can reproduce that with less than 5% distortion? Also I'd completely disagree about older rock being that low. I'd actually venture that nothing in older rock goes below at least 50 if not 60. lol, he's right, lookin at every older 70s-80s rock song i've imported into Audacity... it's like the opposite of car audio music that we come to expect from us bassheads

ok man, gimme a couple days and i'll see what i can build, gotta sleep now.

ok, i'll draft using 2 layers then. With the allthread, for a REAL good brace without having to weld, when you have multiple allthread runs pokin g out of the same wall, run steel from all points on the inside and outside from one allthread point to another. For allthread that stands alone from any other point, use a large Steel base. All these methods will increase the radius of dispersed strength that allthread has to offer. Running allthread alone doesnt actually offer a lot of dispersed strength on the wall it's mounted to unless you have a run every few inches, lol. It's great on keeping things together, but it needs help in these monsterous pressure designs.

need more port area for more spl. If building to 5cubes Net, you will want a minimum of 80sqin and around 140sqin for competition. I don't know about how the L7s sound but more SPL in a daily setup would mean you want it tuned higher than 33hz, preferrably around 37hz minimum. With the info i gave, the port depth is meaningless now.

Kicker amps are not crap amps, they are very reliable and powerful. if u underpower a sub and have no need in swapping amps to build an enclosure that is more efficient for the power you have. Also, for the power you have, you should go with just one. If you went with 2, any 1500-2000w amp would be great. Sundown 1500d, IA 20.1, AQ2200d... I have a buddy that runs a 3000w on 2 SSDs but i don't recommend doing it if you do not know how to setup amps yourself.

yea that's what i'm referrin to. I take all aspects of dimensions into play, including mounting depth, I know the depth is pretty deep for a sub so if you want, i'll go ahead and start makin some drafts and seein what fits and what doesnt. I'll be focusing on this build with using 3 layers of MDF all the way around if that's fine with you?

how does oen go about designing a design like that where all subs face each other? Is it just a matter of having to wire different subs out of phase constantly until you get the right pattern going? Also, is his wall Sealed.... because i don't see any ports anywhere...

yep, Velleman is the way to go.

ok, i just drew out the baffle, there's no way you gonna get enough port area on a FLAT baffle for 4 21s. You will need a different approach. you will want around 550-600sqin for daily or around 900sqin for competition. You have many options, some that come to mind is a concaved baffle where the top half subs would be facing partially down at the ower 2 subs with a massive horizontal port in the middle. If you did that design, the port would be the whole width of the baffle and about 12.75-13" tall. So you see, the baffle angle would be very noticeable to fit 2 21s and a ~13" tall port in 45" height. If u want to do that, i'll try and draw it out.

ok, i have absolutely no idea what u mean by porting through the diamond but if you can give me the dimensions of your ride on the inside, and i mean precise dimensions so i can draw it out from front to back, side to side, guaranteed to fit if it's built the way you measure it... then i can find out exactly how much port area you will have or can obtain...

yea, i've ran 9hz tone through my wall and i cant send a lot of power through it because they move to much,.

you will want a monoblock amp that does around 500-1000w at 2 ohms. all of the following amps can be purchased at www.sonicelectronix.com Pioneer GM-D8400M - 600w @2ohm Phoenix Gold Ryval V8001 800w @2ohm Infinity Reference 1600a 600w @2ohm Kenwood KAC-9103D 900w @2ohm Sony XM-GTR6001 900w @2ohm Cerwin-Vega Vega V500.1 500w @2ohm Alpine MRP-M500 500w @2ohm MTX Audio JackHammer JH300 600w @2ohm All of those amps can be had for under $200 shipped.

lol, you don't recommend the 2400s but you tell him to listen to what i say and i say it's fine... He is really gonna be confused now, lol. 2 HC2400s are fine. If you are a Kinetik fan, that model number is what you want, 2 of them. If you are Powermaster fan, go with 2 XS D3100s... The Powermaster's are generally $30 more than the Kinetik's and i am biased to say that's what i'd use simply because their companies support forum is on this site if you have any questions.

i run around 8,000w with a 250A, you will be fine. 300A alts are usually made only for SUVs as they are bigger and the companies that make the 250s would have the 300s as well if they made em for your vehicle. Mechman or DCPowerinc will have what you need. 2 HC2400s will be fine for your 5kw install.

rear speakers will not sound good as your mids and highs should come from the front speakers only. Well, mids may not have to be in the far front all the time. Anyways, an EQ is not needed unless competing in SQ or you have some serious frequency response problems. If the amp is setup right, EQ is not necessary and if boosting will only cause clipping at amp's setup volume.

250A minimum for 6,000w of power. You will need a minimum of 2 D3100s, maybe a little more if you have slight dimming.

it's just pressure or the feeling of it. Most of the custom music i make when i edit, i don't actually listen to it all the way. It's more of like a demo track to entertain people. Very few songs are actually tolerable to listen to as most will leave you with headaches, discomfort, etc... Now, back to your question, after playing around with tons of songs over the weekend, i actually did have to "up the bar" some on the frequency range because some songs sounded... i guess nasty i should say. I'm currently focusing in the low 20hz range right now as it's more appealing.

ok, then if u know, explain how it is safe and\or is a great performer? Even if the wire wouldnt catch fire over a period of time, wouldnt there be a noticeable voltage drop, and by noticeable i mean almost a whole volt?