shizzzon

just got back from local comp in louisville, ky. Couple big names there but with smaller setups trying lower divisions at this time... I am still using the wrong port so i didnt do as loud as i had metered before on my mic. This place was using the Tlab though which is good. I metered a 154.9 in the kick @50hz pulling 236A @ 12.8v I tried Driveby... never did it before so i'm a noob in that division - did a 123.4 using a song that peaks at a steady 50hz. I was told your car's peak is your driveby peak but being the driveby noob i am... i do NOT believe that.. so i'll be doing driveby testing later next year when i'm done tweaking for SPL.

not for daily it isnt. If you want to seriously start competing, it's been known running wire out of port loses a couple tenths on the meter.

the more power runs the better! I suggest single 3/0 or 4/0 run from front to rear or 2 1/0 runs from front to rear. Ground your batts with as many runs of ground as possible! I ground using 5 2/0 cables... or i did, i will be doing more soon, right now it's only 3 runs of it.

well, there's a guy around here running 6000w on stock alt... the alternator is the source of power. What people don't realize is 2 things is happening to an alt that is asked to put out more power than it can do- 1 - the diodes may die eventually due to overcurrent and... 2 - the alt may overheat trying to charge the batts back up. If you got a large aH battery bank and a low output alt, the alt may die due to overheating if u drain your batts down low or if u excessively go over your alt's current output rating for daily. I wouldnt run no more than that aq2200d on there for daily until the alt is upgraded for longevity use.

i know people do it but i like straight through runs. Why use a bolt? It just adds resistance. Run your wires straight through the box, use sealant and expanding foam to seal the runs.

you have the room to do a box for an 18 and you can even put the box in there and it be loud, i guarantee that... However, massive pressure requires breathing room and an 18 will create massive pressure. To get your money's worth, i'd make sure i had enough room around the box to get the most potential possible. Me, i don't like for things just to work, i like them to work as best as my knowledge will allow them too and my insight tells me that an 18 is just not right for your trunk. I want you to visualize this so you can understand what i am about to say- However many speakers you plan on using on a baffle, see if you have enough room on the baffle for 1 more. If you do not, then you will not have adequate port area for best potential! Next thing is breathing room. On an estimate scale, after doing the above, you must also virtually have enough room on the outside of the box for 1 more speaker for the air to breathe! or some slight overhead room which i'll explain in a minute. so, lets say you face everything toward the rear and you want to run 2 12s. Well, 2 12s is roughly 25" wide, then u gonna need about another 12" of space for port and the rest of the box so lets say box is 37" wide. Well, now you are gonna need aroudn another 12" on the side for breathing room or more... This is a major factor for trunked setups. That's why many competitors suggest 2 10s is the best for trunked setups. I'm not sayin they're right 100% of the time but i spelled it out as to how it works for potential purposes. Look at Thorshammer - he broke a 151 with 2 10s in a trunk.

this i'd love to see! Have you ever bassraced with the last amps you had and if so, what's the score? I can't imagine subs taking that much available power for 30sec.

well, i was hopin somebody with some great box building knowledge would comment on the designs. My version serves 2 purposes worth addressing. 1 - the effects of the front and rear wave being combined together in the same chamber and... 2 - how many chambers can one make before it starts to lose it's effectiveness?

exactly, that's why it fits this thread. Curious as to how this would work

OK, how about this design i just did- explain how that would work... The optional port.. i dont know if it should be there because the front and back wave both eventually use the same last chamber before exiting out the box...

well, if drawn to scale, the 2 side ports suck for port area. If it's just a generalization picture, i believe angling the baffle that the sub is mounted on at a 45 degree angle, increasing port area on both side ports substantially and then angling the aerial port at a 45 degree angle would allow for a decent box. it's almost like an ABC box.. it's just the chamber the sub is in isn't vented immediately out of the box.

I'm about to step in and start editing some more music for custom purposes for car audio and want to know what frequency range i should focus on? This project will mainly be focused on older 70s-80s rock that had no bass hardly. I want to bring out frequencies that just didn't audibly exist before. I've done this before a while back and some people have the custom 16 min Pink floyd track i did but now i want to do this... So, what frequency to you is LOWWWWwwww? i can bring it out all the way to 1hz but there comes a point to where it's too low so i need to know how low is too low really. Anyone who listens to these tracks can mainly only benefit from it from a setup where the subsonic is shut off or your setup is just plain tuned low already... below 30hz that is. Right now i'm focusing on the 9-24hz range right now on this one pink floyd song to give you an idea.

cone area alone on the 10s are almost twice that of a single 15. You could do yourself a favor and put that 1500d on the dcons, not saying you have to to be louder but it wouldnt hurt if you did.

i cant.. i just cant get it to fit. So, the subs must be mounted on the port walls! Steve meade and some others have done designs like this. The following pic is an example... Although for you, the subs would be facing up and down because side to side isn't enough room- In the pic, i made the "Port area" HUMONGOUS. I do not know anything about these designs so i just made you 608sqin of port for a 38cube net box(hoping u have the room for that). i'm sure the subs might need to be wired out of phase but i'm not 100% sure. That's something one would need to experiment with. If you decide to go with this, let me know so i can get into detail and finish the entire design.

i am currently workin on a design for you. I was hopin i was gonna have one by the time i post this but the subs still do not fit yet... They WILL fit by the time i'm done, this design is just funny... hard, but i like a challenge.

sorry if i never told you about the port length. I just opened sketchup back up, the entire port will be 22.75" Measuring from behind the baffle, the port length is 20.5" The port area is cut out on the baffle so the port walls must extend to the baffle! Do not mount the port walls behind the baffle.

I requested everyone to reside in the proper chat room for updates... At the top of the chat window, that is where you select a room so that's how you enter the "proper" room. Next, the script kicks people out of the chat who idle so to stay logged in, in the lower right corner, set your status to AWAY. This will allow you to still see all messages posted so you do not miss anything. Any permanent updates to anybody's build designs will be posted in there build thread or i will create one for you if you never made one. All the little questions back and forth needs to be done in the pm-sent chatroom. If you reside in the SSA-Lounge room, i will not see you as that's reserved for every member here. I will be working on a design for Hove first. I also have SplScion, Latorgator and MarAha so be patient. To get quicker small updates, please be sure to stay logged in to the chatroom. This is the only way i know to cut down on my pms so this should help all of us.

lol.i got vacation time... wonder if it be worth my time to travel north for a demo myself...i'll only come if u are a hair from a 160 though,

In testing for competition, MECA enforces fuse sizes for specific divisions in your class. In testing, if you are trying to pull 2-3x the fuse rating of your inline fuses.. and they keep popping, can that damage the amp? I haven't started yet but i was thinking the amps would be susceptible to low voltage conditions at high volume when the fuses pop and could eventually cause damage, maybe immediately. Is this true?

Please check your PM, update information for your progress-

Please check your PM, update information for your progress-

Please check your PM, update information for your progress-

they are slightly more expensive than XS Power batteries, they also float at 13.8v... If someone can tell me for sure what are these batteries required charging voltage, i will be pleased.

ok, i'll stick with audible range.

so, hehe, should someone do an SPL box tuned to something below 20hz and see what it meters? Gonna be a BIG box!