shizzzon

i drive through to florida every other year so if u want me to come down, i'm game.

2ohm, i'd say about 80aH in the rear. Alternator - 143.235663A It must be that size or it won't work... sorry. Oh wait, i have another option on the alternator! 140-160A would be fine for that ohm load for longterm daily. If you ever wanted to change and run it at 1 ohm, u better get your 200A+ minimum... It never hurts to get the biggest early if u do plan on going bigger later on.

for someone who hasn't competed yet, don't try to reach a competitor's goal from the start. Score your first ever then try and approve from there.

wow, someone actually referenced something i was about to explain, lol Basically what all that thread says is- If you are wanting to run an 18v system and you want to use that battery.. you will need MULTIPLE 12v batteries wired in parallel with that battery to all help run our car and to properly slowly discharge the 12v bank so it doesn't get too discharged compared to the 16v side. It is suggested to call Kinetik yourself and talk to them about the setup of your vehicle so u get the best advice. The way it was explained is to never use just one of those as the starting battery then the rest pure 16v batts in the rear. Problem is the 12v post will always be discharging but the other 2 cells which make up the 16v would never discharge so the alt would never charge or fully charge the 16v batt resulting in most cells in that battery to stay undercharged... So you add additional 12v batts in parallel with the 12v post so slow the discharge rate down on that particular battery and hopefully part of the 16v side will discharge to part of your car audio setup... Powermaster tested it and did not like the design. They suggest step downs and run pure 18v everything. I suggest run 14v everything and run step ups for your car audio, Everything comes at a price and when doing big installs, the pricing doesn't vary much.

it doesnt matter where the gain is set at... it matters if the gain is set right. for the proper setup for your 2 2.5s, they would need to be in 9 cubes NET tuned to 35hz for best performance. For you runnin that one amp to both of those 15s, it's gotta be clipping if it's the amp's fault, or the box design. Of course i'm not there so i can only speculate.

if they are heating up, you probably clipping them too much for daily. DJ told me a user runs an aq1200d on each 2.5 and the 1200d is rated at 1470w with no problems so i'm assuming it's a clipped signal. If you upgrade to hdc3, you'll get great sound using an amp under 1500w, anything more than that and you enable "brute force" mode.

hello?

that is for real competition. You want to choose a division you want to run in and try to max out your potential for that division so you have the best advantage.

I don't know if you compete seriously or not but that advice should only be saved for the noobish daily driver and not for a competitor if that's hell-razor's goal. Let me answer some questions here- The reason why 4 10s was thrown out the window is because hell-razor stated he wanted to compete. 4 10s has MORE cone area than 2 12s, BUT the 4 10 build would have too small of a port for comp use. 2 12s, depending on the 12s, are very close to the same "radiating area" as 4 10s. AQ's HDC3s have an SD of over 550 i believe whereas most other 12s are under 500. Using 2 12s can increase your port area by 150% and the slight loss of cone area would actually give you an increase in pressure when it came to the monsterous port area available. And the quoted statement above- In competition, you want to feed the most power you can possibly feed your subs because these comps, like MECA, restrict you based on fusing. Fuses can take more than rated for quick bursts so it's wise to have a large power bank for your subs, even for those who aren't rich... Phi, a member here, has 2 10" SSDs that is being ran off of a 3,000w amp. It's actually the Audiopipe 3kw amp. I personally tested that amp doing over 1,400w at 6.2ohms on his 2 10" SSDs and they never get hot. So to say it may not be wise to run 1500w on a BL is funny since Hell-Razor's goal is both daily and comp. If he were to choose the BLs, i would suggest running 2kw per BL minimum, 3.5kw recommended for comp. AQ HDC3s - ~2.5kw minimum, 5-6kw recommended. These power recommmendations are all for comp use. The minimum ratings can also be used for daily use as long as your amps are clip free. I'm thinkin about running my DC Level 4s at 3kw per sub daily soon. I'm still tryin to work out the finances on that.

yea, lol, i had to explain to somebody the other day who doesnt even compete, just wants to get louder, that his setup is not the norm and not to be expected in a daily driver.

what do you want to know? they get very loud, handle 3x their rated power and over 6x rated power for burps that has ben documennted.

well, i know what my headrest score is with my good port, so going by what i did this past sunday, my headrest score should have been mid to high 151s. I know, it's a BIG difference. I've done a 153.1 at the head before but that was on a different port. I got's plenty of time for testing before next season.

that's probably why he made this thread is so people like you get dealt with first so no more people in your situation get's "stuck."

lol, you dont want the port 1" long I'm not worried about bout box specs yet. If u know u are gonna run that setup and need a design, then i'll make one or just tell you the numbers.

not to say you guys are crazy because i LOVE me some overkill, hehe, but what makes you guys think u need to use bolts? I've used standard wood screws on subs up to 50lbs on a flat walled type baffle before and never had a problem.

i use a LOT of sealant. I notice that i can see plenty of sunlight feeding through the cover of the wire so to prevent the "theory" of air leaking out through the wire covering, i tend to use plenty of sealant on the wire cover itself. What i did on my wall was seal about 0.5 inches back on the wire cover inside and out then spray expanding foam over all the covers and underneath of it. Sealant alone for daily is overkill because if the hole is drilled right, you dont even need sealant but it's helpful.

hey duran, u ever had any problems with t-nuts for sub mounting before? Someone told me long time ago that they preferred hurricane over Ts because the T-nuts would want to bite too close to the edge of the cutout hole where hurricane nuts bite only on the shaft.

but it may cost more. The cost of some bolts, washers, nuts and terminals for the wire on the inside and out will cost more than a single tube of silicone.

that's the main part of it, the resistance will usually be so small that the meter wont even read it... unless you are running several thousand watts.

just because i do designs doesnt mean i am the end all know everything about every type of humanly possible design out there. If that's the case.. well, nvm. I've never experimented with unknown stylish box designs and just through that out there. I dont have time to experiment with stuff like that mainly. i was hoping someone with years and years of spl experience like ///M5, hehe, would comment, haha. Just playin, but honestly was hopin either a long time competitor or box builder would comment on any of these designs and explain how they would work. I focus on sealed and ported only, and other types of designs i do not fool with as i have no experience with them... Ported seems pretty doable as it is locally now. One of my buddies does over a 151 with a single 12 ported in MECA and another friend of mine just did a 150.3 with 2 18s and 1000w playing Michael Jackson Thriller on the mic at the headrest, lol. We all run ported, keep it simple and loud.

well, both methods should exhibit no problem for air leaks if sealed with silicone and sometimes foam.

u cant really test the difference unless u are running several thousand watts lower end power wont really have an effect on the outcome because the resistance is so low already.

it's a fact, any break in connection will add resistance. May not be readable but it's true.

hey, if it's possible, i may be able to help in fixing your computer. That's another thing i do.

ground yout starting with as much 1/0 as possible, same for your alternator too! Run 1-2 runs from your alt to your battery. I know this is overkill for your install but voltage drop will be at it's least and so will resistance.