shizzzon

u were doin a sweep down to 10hz? That can cause a major drop in impedance rise going that low... Also, make sure your sub is still reading properly just in case so we know that u didnt damage your sub too. You can't expect more requirement for battery if your voltage never dropped below 13v unless you didnt measure it the whole time.

well, quick way to test for short is to put another fuse in there. If it pops immediately..short.. If it pops as soon as the amp turns back on.. could be damaged power supply. If it only pops under crazy loud scenarios... you pullin too much power probably. Are you wired properly? Check resistance with amp off. You should be readin no lower than 0.6 ohms.

i'm gonna have to stop for today... I'm running into problems, hehe. This is a little more challenging than i thought. It's a matter of getting the right numbers in the perfect order... if one dimension changes.. it effects a lot more than a normal box would be effected so i'm gonna have to go back over the other designs i am doing and see if i can make these other ones happen because you'll probably fall out of your chair if i can get em workin.

hmm, this design i'm tryin to get to work isn't practical so i'll move to the last design

hmm... i might have to redo this design.. so gimme bout another hour... Specs i got were 28.9 cubes tuned to 29hz... I know i can do better than that... The volume needs to be bigger.

Next Design almost done... Can we say 900 SQ In of port? Design will be done shortly,

ok here it is- 609 sqin of port! - I'm about to start the next design...

OK, first design coming up- 37 cuft NET tuned to 30hz. gimme few more minutes while i finish the design up

i think you should run funky pups.

u need to built several pcs for yourself. that's what i did. I got tired of using just one pc because what i do requires more than 1 pc anyway to multitask. So, i have 2 desktops that i use mainly for everything i do while at the workstation. Then i have another computer that i use for hobby projects like for my video microscope, or for tlabing myself. Then a laptop or another desktop.. havent decided yet to control one of the 2 main desktops in another part of the house so it can mainstream movies to any display i want it to. The point is it's always best to have more than 1 pc so when one breaks down, the other is still alive. I actually have enough backup parts in my closest to build 1-2 more pcs, all i would need is just some cases and power supplies and that's it.

awesome, i have my blueprints, lol I am assuming i can maintain 48" wide the entire time? Ok, I have some AWESOME designs for you... i'll be posting the first one soon. The easy ones i'll be doing first, lol these designs i'm posting will not have any bracing pics to them because i wont make that until u pick one that you want, then i'll finish it.

ok, i'm gonna design 3 designs. The requirements will range between 53-63" deep. 53" is the MINIMUM for this build. I will be posting design ideas for the SSA users to see, maybe we can narrow down which design looks to perform the best.

NO, you CAN do that but the amp is made to do the paralleling inside. It's easier, better connection to do it the way AQ wants you to. I'm tellin you, follow what i said about setting the amp, if u do it how i say, it will be LouD. If that clipping light stays solid red and it's still very low powered, STOP IMMEDIATELY and recheck your wiring on that sub as you might have it wired out of phase with itself.

First, you will want to do what he said! Run EACH wire from each polarity terminal to the amp's terminals. The amp is paralleled inside! So, your sub is dual 2 ohm, run the positive and negative from one side to the amp and same for the other. The resistance will then be 1 ohm nominal... or 0.6-0.7 on a DMM. The amp then needs to be setup properly so hwo do you do that? I honestly dont feel like explaining the whole nine yards right now so i'll make it brief. The amp has a clipping light on it. Get a test tone, lets say 50hz and put it in. Set head unit 75% of the way up, all bass and EQ settings on head unit at 0. If it's an alpine unit, set sub output to +15. If it's another head unit with this capabiltiy, do the same, max it out. Now, have gain set all the way down, connect the remote control unit that came with the amp and turn it's control all the way UP. Set subsonic around 30hz, low pass around 80hz. Now, play test tone, slowly start increasing gain on the amp until the red light on the remote module gets FULL RED. Once it gets full red, turn the gain up on the amp just a LITTLE bit more then STOP and turn down or off the tone before u damage your sub. That's a quick way. If you still got problems, it's user error.

Specs - 22" tall 44" wide 22" deep Double baffled Subs and port facing rear. Make sure you install the box so when looking into your trunk, the port is on the right just how it is in the pic below. Port area - 20.5" x 5" = 102.5" Tuned to 33Hz @ 8.0 cubic ft NET after minor bracing shown below. Port is attached to back of second baffle. The port wall depth is 14.75" This allows a 5" wide opening from the end of the wall to the back wall of the box. This is important as you must keep the opening 5" wide. The bracing can be all thread(not the vertical runs obviously), or wooden dowels. Diameter really isn't too important, anywhere between 1-2" is fine. The bracing shown gives u an idea of how to do it. Make sure that when u do run the bracing that you TRY to get them all next to each other perpendicularly then tie them together or physically join them together by running them into each other, etc...

when burping with a larger box, you usually gain efficiency as u see your score go up. When street beating\bassracing with a larger box, you run a large range of frequencies which will have a major difference than a smaller box. Lower notes in particular will cause the sub to move a lot more. Your best bet is to increase the subsonic filter higher than what you had it before or... for bassrace, you need to change your song if it's dippin that low causing your sub to move a lot more... Your bassrace song should be a constant 45hz with some moderate bass hits so it's legal.

see if u can meet/find bigjon.he may be able to help and he likes cars like yours too so it would be an incentive for him, lol

I don't know if you compete seriously or not but that advice should only be saved for the noobish daily driver and not for a competitor if that's hell-razor's goal. Are you really serious? That is one of the least educated statements I have read here. The BTL with the same power will ALWAYS be Fi's loudest sub. ALWAYS. Really? Then explain to me how when ROE did the great 12" comparison that the Fi Q, which was given half the power the BTL was given, produced MORE pressure between 35-50hz in the same box and tuning.. And i know the BL is geared to be louder than the Q so using the BL would exaggerate this even more.

ok, here is your bracing. You don't have to do it exactly how i got it, this just gives u an idea- Make sure if u do do it like this to allow the horizontal runs low enough so they dont hit the magnets. Mounting depth using double baffle is 8" even below baffle. I do recommend to join the bracing together though when running the horizontal runs. 36.5" run without bracing the dowels will weaken the brace. This is why i joined them all together. And ONLY the dowel closest to the front of the box goes to the floor to prevent air flow restriction in the port entrance.

Another build design for Latorgat0r.. Build consist of 2 15" BTLs in a blazer, subs up, port up by request tuned to 32hz. Net volume is 8.0 cubes with 110sqin of port. here is top view- I am now gonna make your design now, hopefully done by tonight

i forgot to tell you, the double baffle isn't shown in the pic. Also, the main part of the port that goes down, go down until you leave 4.25" left from the floor. You must leave 4.25" OPEN throughout the port. So, using double baffle, that leaves 17.75" internally so your port will go down 13.5" then bend forward an additional 7.5". Resulting port area inside box must still be an opening of 26" wide x 4.25" tall.

your specs - 38" wide x 31" deep x 20" tall (double baffle the top so it's 17.75" tall internally). Port - dead even in the middle on the back- 26" wide x 4.25" deep Port cut out points are - 6" from the left, 6" from the right. Once the port bends internally, from the front of the port, the port extends an additional 7.5" forward. Sub placement - It doesnt have to be perfect but i drew it out as so- X = horizontal Y = Vertical Sub #1 Center point - X= 9.5" Y= 9.5" Sub #2 Center point - X= 28.5" Y= 9.5" That is measured from left to right, bottom to top. Stay tuned for bracing using 1.25" dowels.

here's your design, give me little more time for bracing pics-

if u dont plan on keepin it long or upgrading, keep your stock alt as long as it's at least 100A. Just dont ever sit at idle blastin.

true but going from 2 to 1... isn't really wise for a daily driver unless you just don't have room to run 2 15s. I used to run a single AQ 15 back in 04 in 8 cubes tuned to 29hz.. WAY off the recommended chart... i did a 144.3 on an AC mic at 31hz.. that was a shocker and i knew nothing about competing back then. the onyl thing i knew is that 31hz was my peak and i had 120sqin of port in a trunk of a crown vic!