shizzzon

solo x 18 in a wall. the guy that did over a 156 was also a single 15 in a marble box weighed over 400 lbs. It was for spl only though.

got to hear Scottie Johnson's van before he quit competing at Carl Casper several years ago. It was back when he had 12 12s RE MTs i belive off over 120,000w of power, over 50 batteries, etc... I was standing 40ft away holding the video camera up and with all the windows up and doors shut, when he let it rip for 2-3 full seconds, as soon as the bass started my knees buckled like i lost my balance! It was insane! Then the same day, some guy was running 8 rockford fosgate 18s off of unknown amount of power and was holding over 160db playing brass monkey! That was insane too.

the best i've seen is a 156.x but the box was completely made of marble... I'd still suggest IA or DC when it comes to crazy daily use. I knwo u cant go wrong with the BTL.. i dont know, my opinion i guess.

u really think a btl will get just as loud as a solo x 18? There's a guy either on here or on another forum that did over a 152 with a solox 18. I know that isnt extraordinary but i just dont see the btl taking away the solo x's potential. Sure, practically any other sub out there may sound better than the solo x but the solo x is loud as hell.

the solo x can be ran for daily with about 4kw amp. Now, if looking for an alternative... 18" square has more radiating area than any other 18 out there so i dont know if a circular 18 could compare unless it was just more efficient. I can tell ya that DC Soundlab Level 5 18, Incriminator Audio Warden\Death Penalty 18, Atomic APXX18. Those are some of the current bad-boy 18s out there right now.

yes

yea that's not good. Contact SSA.

Actually 3dB is noted as the average that a human can perceive differently. In back to back scenario's it can get closer to a dB though question: is it easier to hear a difference in say 87db to 90 db or 140db to 143db @ lets say 70hz, i would guess its easier to hear the change at a lower level, am i right? sorry if i didnt word that very well. i understand our ear are more sensitive to high frequencies but i never heard if there is a difference like i described above.. sorry for the thread jack.. u got it backwards. You can hear an increase of 3db better at a higher level than you can at a lower level... but once you get so high, everything is perceived so loud that it's hard to tell a difference again. 148-151 definitely tell the difference.. 120-123 likely but not as noticeable as the above. 170-173 too loud to possibly perceive

that's bad.. measure the probes together first? You are measuring direct short is what it sounds like.

i don't know if this is of any help so i'll just throw it out there- No one really knows exactly how loud something is going to be when it's not even built or installed yet so it's almost impossible to know exactly what needs to be done to your front stage to compensate... So, what i do\did is install universal remote gain controllers, one mainly for sub amps and another possibly for your front stage. This way you can control and balance the amount of power being to sent to your subs and your front stage for music to balance the sound out to your own listening preference. Now, i really use them for competition because i have way more bass then i do front stage so when i tend to listen to music, i have to adjust the bass amps to a reasonable level, but for competition, that's different, You may want to look into those as an alternative to your confusion. I still do plan on having my doors redone to hold a monsterous amount of mids in the doors but for the time being, this solution works great.

20 cubes? U scared.... There's a guy about to run 4 21s in his explorer.. u got way more room than that! Unless you are keeping all your seats. Are you keeping all your seats intact?

you're right but with as much power as you plan on runnin, subs back and port back with the required box volume would be insanely too large for your trunk. Before i sealed off my wall in my car... then when i sealed it up, i only gained 0.4 db. That's completely inaudible. You make the box to where it's as close to the back seats as possible and it will perform awesome. There are ways to seal parts or all the trunk without destroying anything.

yea a while back. 153.1 at the head and 156 in the kick

oh that's good, that should give us about 400-500w at 8ohm which is plenty. As long as it's more than 60w, i'm happy.

i got bored a while ago and decided to go back out and retest some frequencies to make sure i am not wrong anywhere before i start doing somethin different soon. While i was out there.. i decided to do a legal meter with everything sealed up metered on top of steering wheel with me sitting there. For those who have followed this build log, you will remember that frequencies below ~42hz are terrible in my car in the response graph as what accounts for the sharp falls in pressure levels at lower notes... but they still sound good to me. The port i use can be lengthened another 10" and i could probably gain another db or so sealed from the lower notes but with a port that likes to peak in the high 50s at the moment- 32hz - 145.35db 40hz - 149.64db 50hz - 150.46db So... for sealed purposes, 40-50hz is deadly to the ears, lol. I then retested notes above 50 since 50 is my car's peak right now... once i got to 62hz, it was only reading 142.5 sealed so i quit going any higher. So... i'm gonna be doing some driveby tests soon so i can see how loud i can get out of the vehicle soon. I finally got all the equipment to do so so hopefully soon i'll find out.

ok, hehe. All i need in the vehicle is an amp that is working... The test box is wired to 8 ohms so dont put the worlds smallest amp in there, hehe.

it depends on how deaf you already are... do you actually plan on listening to songs.. a whole song at that level? If you do then no... stick with 3kw max

if u wanna go crazy and dont care about the vehicle... i'll do some no-reverting-back install designs for ya You better go get u some air ride because crazy installs require a foundation that weighs a ton.... and in some vehicles that isn't exaggerated.

yep, with light clipping. That sub should be able to handle 4-5kw daily as long as it's not clipped and for moderate use only.

flared ports are only recommended when you are pressed for port area. Otherwise, it's not necessary

oh, since u in indy, the best thing you could do is come to me so i can run a test box in your ride for about 3 hrs. We can plot out about 24 box designs in excel and go from there as to which one you like the best in terms of output at your favorite frequency range. I can find your car's peak note and use that in conjunction with the box designs to find the best box for your spl potential and so on. All this would take a good day so the weekend is the best. You won't find anything research-wise what will be the best design for any vehicle... Test and test is what u do and i am only 1 state away.

My last build was ported to the side as that was the best box design i tested to also be able to allow me to put batteries in the back of my hatch as well. Burped a 148.0 flat on the TL tuned DAILY just for fun using 2 12s. I also had the amps mounted on top of the box for about a year with no problems, sold them and still no problems. I used Luxury Liner pro and multiple rubber washers to prevent vibration damage. I still use Luxury Liner Pro as an absorbent in my installs. All my current fans and amps all have that under their mounting feet because the road alone is bumpy enough.

oh wait! u only have an HC600 in the back? do you still run on stock alternator? If you do then it must be low voltage problem... Turn car off, disconnect hc600 and read it's rest voltage about 3 hrs after disconnecting so it can settle down. Do not read rest voltage while still connected as the starting battery will be bleeding into it as well. You MUST be careful if i'm right about your electrical system. You can cause alternator and\or battery failure soon if not careful.

you better read up on that article Sundownz posted. IT also happens above tuning as well... Now, for you to be wired at 2 ohms is kinda odd and i doubt u'd be having current pull problems though..... R u sure you are wired at 2 ohms? Don't make me drive over there and fix it myself, hehe. I am within driving distance for a small road trip..

typically, subs and port back is the best... BUT, without proper air flow around the box, it could be a very bad design. I opted for you to fire forward subs and port... yes you will have no loading area but the better seal job you do, the better the design will be. The port for firing forward would be monsterous as required and that's a big plus! The only thing you gotta do is seal around the box and top of it so only pressure stays in the cabin area only!