shizzzon

sounds good

trust me, the difference is measurable but minimal. It be like some askin can my electrical system handle this 1500w amp or this 1600w amp...

i dont know man. Just assume that you are gonna install a big ass box in there. If there are tools in there think of how you will have them positioned in the truck and subtract that space from the maximum room i have to build a design.

how do u got it wired, the sub i mean to the amp... Is the sub wired in parallel to 1ohm?

give me the maximum height, width and depth i can possibly use for a box, if necessary. I'll shrink it accordingly, again if necessary, for a few suggestive setups.

rubber is the cheapest i know of. Just go to Lowes and stuff bunch of rubber washers underneath there.

let me suggest something to you. Tell me your max width, height and depth and i'll do some magic for ya. I may be able to squeeze a hallacious amount of cone area in your truck so you don't need an amp that may require an alternator... that's always nice, isn't it?

i believe a single amp is more efficient in terms of less current draw but seriously.. if your electrical system has been narrowed down to a few amps difference... then you need to lower your expectations power-wise.

hmm, that shouldnt have been a problem... i can only speculate.. I can tell you to allows put something in between the feet and the base the amp will sit on to help prevent vibration damage. this is what i've always done, even on boxes and never have had a problem.

when i first bought my car, it came with stock pioneer speakers ran off head unit. Those screamed but only if ran into audible distortion. I then upgraded to some Image Dynamics components and a SAX100.4. I am running each component set to it's own channel for it's 100w rating. The output is just as loud as it was stock off head unit but the sound quality is crystal clear, no audible distortion. Now, if i start to crank it up past it's clip-free state, they start to appear louder than my stocks and still distortion free audibly!

i may be wrong here but ti sounds like the amp was a victim of being installed in a loading area... That may of had more vibrations there than on the box itself if built well! If installing your subs and amp in the trunk, mount your amp(s) behind the firing direction or on the box with sound suppression material.

i wouldnt think so quickly... When i first tried AQ for amps, one of the 2 i got was damaged due to some shipping problem. company can't control that. As having experience with such scenario, i'd prefer to only purchase amps from companies that will honor warranty claims.

can you make a video of it?

where did you have the hifonics amp mounted?

You got some problems if u dont believe your wife telling u where in the building you live. I dont think thats happened to anyone.

u are scaring yourself... If you keep and keep on researching, you're gonna want an enclosure so pristine that you are gonna want it made into a perfect sphere. It's not like if not everything is made just right that it's gonna be a failure. It's nice to have the features, don't get me wrong, but it's also not necessary all the time either.

on a side note.. proper installation shouldnt allow an amp to die within a year... Even one of the cheapest popular amps out there, the Audiopipe AP30001D can last a long time with proper installation and good electrical system.

i got a design for ya... 107sqin of port tuned to 35hz In 7 Cubes NET U Likey Likey? lol This is all in the trunk You also have a modified design option to go with if u decided to compete to convert this design over for aeroport use, but this design is purely for music, tuned to 35hz for the potential to still get loud on the meter. if u like it.. i'll show it to you.. but u gotta ask nicely,

oh, i can do designs like that all day long, that's not a problem. I'm just tryin to keep a loading area for you before you go sealing off the trunk.

basically, if you want ported but may not have enough port area to get optimal size port, go aeroports. They do not require as much port area and can still be just as loud. However, if you got plenty of room for a slot port, then aeros aren't necessary.

i didn t know you could successfully use 28sqin of port area for a single 6.5" sub... That's almost the same area as the speaker itself. Won't that cause unloading?

u could have just pm'ed this since the whole world doesnt need to read this, but godd efford,nonetheless.i'm gonna forget the last 2 days ever happened so we can start fresh. Welcome to SSA and stick around a while.

I was just about to say do it anyway when NDMStang showed up, lol. I've tuned some subs way below their recommended tuning before and the only thing i've seen u gotta watch out for is lower power handling. I'm sure ///M5 can elaborate what else happens in terms of the way it sounds from a higher Fs because i've never used a true HT sub before. I've ran an Audioque HD3 in a 29hz enclosure once in a car, single 15 in 8cubes.... it's Fs is 40hz. Very, very low... i wouldnt recommend doin that again, it tore the car apart. I also designed an enclosure recently for somebody for a single 5.25" sub with a 45hz FS that i tuned down to 34hz and i got great complements on how much more alive the speaker is now. I just told him to lower the power handling some and it should be fine, monitor the excursion for a while and should be good to go. This was just for music, not HT. So, what is happening when tuned way below FS?

Haha, no... He's got foam everywhere.

ok, i'm completely retarded.. the topic battery or cap.. Go buy you a large bank of caps and a very good high output alternator...don't bother on buying any extra batteries, hell who needs those anyway. Topic clearly states battery or cap.. it seems a cap is the way to go apparently... Even tests i mentioned must be wrong... I need to pull all my XS batts out of my car and start runnin pure caps because whenever a thread like this is brought up... a cap is suppose to be used as an addon, not a replacement but i guess i'm wrong there too.