shizzzon

well, i peak at 50hz in the car and when testing outside the car, i also peak at 50hz... I thought that an open environment would change the outside peak but it didnt... i'm still stuck at 50hz outside. I custom make music to peak at 50hz but the loudest i ever got was a 123.1 outside. I dont know how to make it any better since i run a wall with 4 15s.

That's illegal talk! If it's money, go get u 8 Deka 9A31s. If it's space, go get u some Group 8Ds If it's weight, Air ride that Bish!

Too much power? hehe, i've never heard of such.

never fuse the negative wiring unless strictly told too. Some devices use a positive ground.. not in car audio though that i am familiar with. The underbody lights i have on my car uses a positive ground, therefore, must be fused. To wire from front battery to rear, do the following- From front battery, once wire starts leaving this battery, place fusewithin 18" of the battery... run your wire to the other battery... ifthis new battery is different from your starting battery, install asolenoid at this point to prolong the life of your battery... thenwithin 18" of your rear battery, place another fuse here. Ground your starting battery with a larger ground run or even multiple runs to the car. Do the same to your rear battery. I'm not gonna argue with u or anyone else in this topic but just to state that this is the exact copy of what was posted and what's in bold\colored can be in no way confused with car audio and "lights" together... I just don't see the confusion. You telling me i should have explained it to him.. I did... that's what is in green.

I believe the reference to me saying strictly is the purpose as telling someone to remember to fuse your power wire going to your amp, battery, etc... As in, it isn't like someone has a choice as to either fuse the power line or to fuse the ground line... Strictly = no choice but the right wire. In car audio case, power line is fused for everything i've ever seen too.

It doesn't matter what exactly you were referring to, there are some cases in the automotive world that some products use positive grounds. When i first got my lights in, i thought they accidentally put the fuse on the wrong wire and i was about to swap the fuse to the other wire... but after doing research, i found out why. not everything in the automotive world is the same and the lights i was referring to are strictly for automotive use. If you never find out... how are you suppose to know? I really dont understand the reason why u posted at all... I already stated that i do not know if any car audio products use a positive ground because i have never used every single piece of equipment in history from all around the world and also stated how it should be wired all in the same post.

regardless of how much power you have in your car, i would never suggest falling below 12.5v. That's my personal threshold. If i see anyone ever drop any lower, need either larger alt and\or more batteries. But for you, big 3 is suggested since your power draw shouldnt be all that much.

Some european products i use require the ground to be fused because it uses positive ground. Why even argue the point of proving why or why not to fuse a non-positive ground? That question is gonna start confusing people. Technically- if someone wanted to fuse the ground for the hell of it... that will add resistance which can cause voltage drop or amp to heat up a little. If the fuse pops due to excessive current draw... that's a waste of money to replace because it shouldnt even be there! And who would tell someone to fuse the ground? The companies that use positive grounds.

if u dont mind waitin til this weekend i can help you.

if u dont mind, can u tell me any tips about driveby?

you dont think u can make it? what about mdizzle?

how big was your last box, NET? If you take a 15 out, multiple things will happen if your score changes.... If your score goes up or down, it's because of- Larger NET volume per sub Port velocity will decrease Port tuning will drop by about 2 hz Sub's phasing may change Take these into account when your score changes and see what made it change.

if those are 15s, you should experiment with about 120-250sqin of square port or 75-150sqin for Aeros.

u need more port area or more power if u wanna keep increasing.

here's one of the newer ones- http://s303.photobucket.com/albums/nn147/shizzzon/?action=view&current=VIDEO0042.flv

from your port area, yea, you'll definitely have an increase! From your box itself, u need about 3.5-4cuft GROSS to get great output from a 12. See if 32-40sqin can work for your box. Or... just for fun, give me your max dimensions and i'll tell\show u what can fit.

having your sub inverted may be part of why it's lacking... For daily use - You would want 32sqin for that box. Personally, i would want that box in 2.2-2.5cubes NET with 40sqin of port.

what u guys are referring to shouldnt be the problem. He said his subs dont sound as loud and there is whistling in his highs now.... When the preouts go all crazy like that, they dont work at all until they are regrounded. it's possible one of your subs is either damaged or disconnected somewhere. When searching for the answer to the whistling, first unhook all rcas going into all amps and see if that fixes it. Next, plug one set up at a time and retest until the noise comes back to determine what is causing it.

i cant remember what it is called but what you are smelling is more than likely a spray that gets sprayed inside of the amps when they are completed. There are 2 different scents that is commonly used. One is the smell you are probably smelling and the other is like a new fresh smell.

his name is phoenix27

If you guys want some great info about kerfing from someone who knows how to do it and been for a while, contact member - "Jay-C76" I haven't seen him on here though in quite a while so hopefully he's still around.

i've never owned optima, all i've ever heard is bad... What i've always heard is they have horrible IR(internal resistance). If you want to get the facts from someone who used to use over 50 of them at one time.. contact Scottie Johnson in the XS Powermaster subforum and ask him about them.

just like SPL competition... Go get you an RTA meter or get some pc software with some existing hardware you have lying around and meter your car's response with whatever type of RTA software\hardware you use and display your results. Opinions don't mean anything when everyone is arguing about the facts... So post facts because everything else is speculation.

they are not in the same class. The BL is a get loud sub no matter what it takes. The XCon is a get loud driver without sacrificing it's ability to stay clean at the same time. The XCon can also handle almost twice the power a BL can as to show you how out of place they are when being compared along with their purposes.

i want more.. i always wanted a 150. now i've done it... I then wanted a 155... well, i did a 156 in the kick and felt it when i bent over one time during metering! I now want a 160. It's my belief that 150 is where car audio begins but 160 is where life begins... It's not all that common for a 160db daily driver...