shizzzon

steve meade's tahoe is 4 18s in a normal ported box. The other suv is 8 18s firing into each other with the rear wave flowing down the middle right over all 8 subs.. neither is a horn.

well, considering it works, i dont see why not. I have personally scoped my amp and sat and watched the remote module to see how forgiving the clip light is... Hehe, the light starts to come in dimmed before i can visually see a clipped wave on the oscope. Just a hair more and the light is in full red and a clipped wave has just barely formed on the scope so it is not forgiving at all which is good! What u would want(this is just for the gain, nothing else) is set the gain on the amp at 75% of the way up but the remote module ALL THE WAY DOWN. Then when playing music, you can turn the remote gain up until it starts clipping as that's it's max safe level. Now, you can run it if the light is flashing, it shouldnt harm nothing but when that light stays red... it's gonna start heatin up those coils in a matter of seconds if it stays like that so don't put it in that kind of scenario. light clipping is ok, flashing is ok, but a constant red light whether it's solidly red or low dimmed, as long as it's on the whole time, THAT'S BAD.

if i could with my current install, i like tuning just under 40hz and set the subsonic down in the low to mid 20s. Make sure you use a sub that has LONG throw so it can be set like that, otherwise, that sub will get damaged quick. to answer your question, no, you shouldnt hear a difference because the new port area is no where near a major change. You would, like u said, tell a difference by tuning higher before u would increasing port area just 13sqin larger. Now, if u increased port area from 26sqin to lets say 60-80sqin... well, that might be louder to the ear... but too hard to speculate.

no, i'm sure they only delete a post if it gets out of control or just gets filled with completely useless information. ///M5 is right about the more power a sub receives outside of it's recommended box volume the smaller it needs to be for musical purposes. Now, the Level 5 15 needs to be in a box anywhere between 3.5-5 cubes NET. look at thorshammer build. He uses custom made level 5 10s ran over 5kw for music and handles it for moderate durations just like your ears. ask him what they sound like, he would know better than i would. that 20kw peak rating consists of many things to be able to do that. I'm sure there are other subs, hell even the level 4XL may even be able to handle that power amp-rated, not physically. short bursts can always handle more power than long durations. You'd be surprised how much power some people will run to a single sub. Mach5 even tested the new MJ18 to handle over 14,000w for a short burst i believe and it's more of a Home Theater oriented subwoofer than anything else.

From wikipedia- Horns are the oldest form of loudspeaker system, having been used from veryearly on for cylinder recording players. They use a shaped waveguide infront of or behind the driver to increase the directivity of theloudspeaker and to transform a small diameter, high pressure conditionat the driver cone surface to a large diameter, low pressure conditionat the mouth of the horn. This increases the sensitivity of theloudspeaker and focuses the sound over a narrower area. The size of thethroat, mouth, the length of the horn, as well as the area expansionrate along it must be carefully chosen to match the drive to properlyprovide this transforming function over a range of frequencies (everyhorn performs poorly outside its acoustic limits, at both high and lowfrequencies). The length and cross-sectional mouth area required tocreate a bass or sub-bass horn require a horn many feet long. 'Folded'horns can reduce the total size, but compel designers to makecompromises and accept increased complication such as cost andconstruction. Some horn designs not only fold the low frequency horn,but use the walls in a room corner as an extension of the horn mouth.In the late 1940s, horns whose mouths took up much of a room wall werenot unknown amongst hi-fi fans. Room sized installations became muchless acceptable when two or more were required. A horn loaded speaker can have a sensitivity as high as 110 dB at2.83 volts (1 watt at 8 ohms) at 1 meter. This is a hundredfoldincrease in output compared to a speaker rated at 90 dB sensitivity,and is invaluable in applications where high sound levels are requiredor amplifier power is limited.

if these are 12s, i'd recommend 2-2.5 cubes per sub tuned to 34hz.

no, u should find ur peak so u know what tone to play, then start trying ports over and over until they reach full tilt. You can change volume afterwards and start testing that but if u are not a truly dedicated competitor, then u can answer your goals yourself.

if u have a tlab, sweeping at near max volume will only get u close. Tlab is still inaccurate i see a lot about finding peak note from a sweep. Whatever tlab tells u your peak is from a sweep, subtract 2 and add 2 from this number and try burping all 5 of those frequencies until u find the loudest one. Once u know ur peak, then it's trial and error port-wise to get the best performance from your port.

for every website that doesnt work, go to command prompt and type in- tracert www.google.com (for example) write down what dns server times out and try other websites that do not work either. At this time, contact your ISP and let them know what is going on and let them know the locations, chicago, new york, etc.... because some of their routers may be down. I have had to contact my ISP before because of something like this. I monitor my network all the time.

oh please, don't even real dimension me! It's free hand. I do not like the sub to be that close to the port exit unless there is just absolutely no other way to do it. Same reason why us competitors who build walls do not want the subs as close to the port as possible. It can cause a phasing issue. I know he isn't competing but i try to urge for best potential out of what is layed out in front of me.

You need 500-750sqin of port area for SPL total

i'm game... just not from a guy...

amps dont go into protect when they clip.. I'm curious as to why your amps are going into protect when u "crank it". How many batts and what kind do you have in the back? If you have none.. then you have a low voltage problem and probably why amps are shutting off. It's also possible the subs are wired wrong to the amp. Those amps are only 2 ohm stable so if u have a DMM (digital multimeter), while the stereo is turned off, set DMM to ohms, touch probes together so u can get a reading and if it reads anything other than 0, subtract thsi number from the metered number. Now, connect probes to speaker terminals on each amp and measure resistance. IT should NOT read any lower than 1.3-1.4 ohms. If it reads ~ 0.7 then they have it wired wrong.

What?!?!? I'd choose A if the port wasn't so close to the sub.. B, is a no go and C is also a no go in my preference... I redid your drawing and came up with this-

i'll go ahead and say if that's true.. u have 2 16x2" ports 12" long per port... then u are tuned to 57hz which is STUPID if this is intended for music. Your measurements or our info may be off but if it isnt... that's what it is. Again, if it's really tuned that high, you are missing out...

i have a question- how are you getting 16x2" ports if the internal height is 20"? Do they actually only go up 16" or did u make a mistake?

I am doing a design for someone and one of the designs i am making needs to be angled in a clamshell and i need to know the width of the magnet so i know whether or not the magnet is gonna be touching the box or not in the blueprints. As of right now, the depth is 11 59\64th at a 12.9 degree angle... I know that isn't good enough but once i have the magnet width, i can input that into the design so i can get the right angle and height for the equation i have.

i got tC and i cut mine off and wired them into Konfused terminals... Wire is wire.. if u start lacking in wire, better get some large butt connectors or distro block and extend ur factory cables WAY out if you are scared, hehe.

don't race to assumptions that it is the seller's fault... Most of us who have done sells online for several years have probably ran into shipping damages outside the control of the seller.

If you plan on running 4kw total, i'd try to get as close to 6cuft NET as possible. If you plan on running 6kw total, the middle one is preferrable.

do not use that battery. Better safe than sorry.

pm me

I know what you mean because the term is used in MECA. I know what you are looking for to so let me explain real quick so u can understand why your question is so.. how to i put this.. broad. A subwoofer specifically geared toward good sound has lots of mass added to the cone which doesn't help in competition or just plain getting loud loud. A comp only sub typically has a very tight gap and cant play music to put it simple. A sub that sounds good while getting loud should be any subwoofer that is not primarily geared toward good sound as long as it stays within it's xmax rating. Once a subwoofer leaves this area, the sound becomes less pleasing, especially at lower pressure levels. So, all you need basically is a sub that has a decent xmax rating and to stay within that rating if you still like great sounding bass. Basically any subwoofer is built like this.. that's why the question for loud and good sound doesnt' make sense when all subs can do just that. In terms of your specific question, i think the Z15 would be a good option. the nightshade is mainly used as a powerhouse for ground pounding bass in excess of 3,000w for daily or at least that's how they are ran around where i compete at.

i do not believe he is a real person. i have already reported him once today.

so you are suggesting that even though the port i use now doesn't do well when played below 50hz to force the box to peak at a lower note and see what happens? I've never thought about that but i guess i could try it. I use interchangeable ports so port area would remain the same.