shizzzon

dont get isolator, they cause voltage drop

your trunk is 41" deep. this box is 23.75" deep. I can't go any smaller anymore because in order to build this properly, you must retain a large port area for port plugging... that's your downfall for trying to save space. You ALWAYS have the option of building it in the car. Lots of people have to do that. If u need help on doing that, i'll be glad to help.

if concrete is a normal building material

I know i do when i got the MECA rulebook open more than any other file

oh crap.. u are right.. i completely forgot about him saying that. Well, i wouldnt dog someone over 0.06 cuft off but the tuning i might...

that may have been a phrase twister. You probably meant class d. Some mono amps out there are actually Class A/B and it's hard on electrical system to get the power out of those amps.. Now, all the amps mentioned - sundown, AQ, kicker - those are all offered in mono class d so there's no confusion there. Some of your "other" brands that are not ever repped or rarely repped due to poor build quality most of the time will manufacturer mono amps but are not class d so they will draw an enormous amount of power just to produce the rated output.. if they even do rated power. But then again.. there are some full range class d amps now..lol So, i say Mono Class D amp, lol

it won't damage anything and isolators are a waste. I prefer solenoids when mixing different battery technologies. If mixed batts sit together for a long time, it can degrade it's life.

You've got some wrong calculations here. I start off with 5.37cubes GROSS. Using a port that is 15.5" x 4" 27.5" physical length is a 33hz tone, not 35hz. also, even if you stuck with that, the physical length would actually be 26.75" attached behind side wall = ~29.5" acoustically because this is a slot port which will extend the port length. Displacement for such port leaves you with 4.23 cubes + sub displacement + bracing to account for so you will be will into the 3.8 range by then.

Yea i see. My remote gain control is set to clip at half volume so i have plenty of gain left for burps. Well, still pointless for this use to then... I must add more power to my install then... Thinkin about bumpin up to 13,000w next and see where that takes me.

So, after doin some lookin at line drivers, it seems they are worthless to use if the goal is to achieve higher SPL for burps but... i have another goal. When i do bassrace or driveby, or longterm musical playback at non-sanctioned shows, i run in a fully clipped signal because my 7,000w still isnt enough for the subs i'm running... I have a 4v preout ran to 2 sub amps and 1 Sundown 100.4. I was curious if i were to ever add a line driver and boost the signal up a little bit(amps accept up to 8v) if i could lower the gain in hopes to prevent the coils from heating up as quick? I can burp all day long and the coils stay cool but when i run in bassrace, etc, the coils tend to heat up due to the clipped signal and am wondering if a line driver could fix this so i could run clean with the same amount of output power so i don't risk damaging the subs during competition.

Someone more advanced may be able to answer this but air is NOT traveling in, nor out, i believe. The port acts as a resonator i think. I'm not keen in the advanced nature of it.

well, video encoding would take control of the video card's capability of mathematical calculations. Another company is also using this technology to crack passwords quicker.. minutes rather than days! The technology used today for such encoding methods speed up encoding if using a quadcore processor to over 400% easy when using both a CUDA based card AND a spurs-engine card. Few hundred dollars worth of card but well worth it. Processors out now are just not capable of 1080p encoding at high rate speeds due to the differences between a cpu and a gpu.

it depends on sub placement is dependent on when i do it. I don't want the rear wave to shoot directly into the port so sometimes i'll do a port like that so that will not happen.

u keep doin that and you will see why you have to have 25 posts to post in the classified section...

Your new box- 3.5 cuft tuned to all kinds of notes.... Comp port- 16" high x 7" wide = 112sqin of port tuned to 44.5hz Port wall attaches behind side wall and goes back 23" Daily port- 16" high x 4" Wide = 64sqin of port tuned to 34hz Port plug consists of 4 sheets of .75" MDF plugged. This piece is 26.75" long and shall be flush with the outside side wall leaving 4" of width between left wall and this plug. Make sure you install some small bump stops in there so the daily port can't go back any further than necessary. also, make sure the daily port plug is trimmed slightly so it can be pulled out easy. So for example, make the plug 15.8" tall x 3" wide Box Specs - External- 31.5" Wide 17.5" High 23.75" Deep Internal- 30" Wide 16" High 21.5" Deep (Double Baffle) All corner pieces are 2" in both directions. The first pic is comp port, second pic is daily port-

OK, here is revised version. The last pic was used with the wrong width so this new design will work- Specs- External - 42" Wide 14.25" High 23.5" Deep Internal - 40.5" Wide 12.75" High 22" Deep 2.8 cuft Tuned to ~32Hz Port - 83sqin of port tuned to ~32hz 12.75" High x 6.5" Wide Keep port width 6.5" Wide throughout. ALL PORT WALLS are 15.5" Deep spaced 6.5" from each other. Make sure the first port wall(where port exits at to outside) is mounted behind the baffle instead of on the side. All corner pieces are 2" in each direction. Cut pieces (pay no attention to picture) Bottom - 42" Wide x 23.5" Deep Back - 42" Wide x 12.75" High Left side wall - 22" Deep x 12.75" High Right side wall - 22.75" Deep x 12.75" High Baffle - 34.75" Wide x 12.75" High Top - 42" Wide x 23.5" Deep Place back wall on floor, left and right side wall in front of back wall, baffle in front of side walls, top on top of everything.

what are your goals for a sub? The Fi SSD sounds good while gettin loud but is REAL picky on enclosure design. If you build the maximum recommended enclosure, they tend to bottom out if ran off of an amp just a few watts over the subs rms rating... odd but true.. The HDC3 has a Hellacious motor on it. Anythign 1200w or less will sound good while getting LouD due to it's potential. The HDC3 is a ~50lb monster and can get very loud as well. If you go with the SSD - tune to 32-36hz If you go with the HDC3- tune to 35-38hz The HDC3s have a longer throw so they can dig the lows while still being tuned higher. This will work for you- 2.5cubes tuned to 34hz. You really dont want to put any one of those subs in 3cubes unless you down the power given to them.

well.. of course the kickers would be louder when tuned higher and in a smaller box... you are stating the obvious. You need a higher tuning...

I would tune to around 35-37hz.. I'm surprised u say they are diggin the lows hard because most things i've read about the Qs tuned in the lower 30s say the low end is terrible.. apparently they didnt know what they were doing.

I wouldnt really spend the money on dual cards... Performance increase is not that great in terms of FPS. I also disabled drive expert on mine, it got on my nerves, hehe. When it comes time for me to start doing massive HD encoding, i'm just gonna use the pc i got now and purchase a CUDA based card with a spurs-engine card and be set. All the software i use to encode video uses an unlimited amount of cores as long as you have them so i have no hardware restrictions. A couple other programs only support quadcore or lower but when a new tech comes out, they are immediately upgraded anyway.

i'm sure it is, that's practically 2" p2p linear excursion. You should be able to tune to around 35-37hz and still drop low. Of course the lower you tune, the lower and louder it will sound though. Preferrably though, lots of people like 35hz unless you are a low-end-fiend, then 30-32hz is suggested.

that amp does 4,800w @14.4v and about 3,600w around 12v so you are not sending an extra 1kw to each sub at full potential... That is the only Optidrive amp i know of that never did rated power according to PAS magazine. Anyway, if u want more performance and to keep that amp, rebuild your box to 10cuft NET tuned to whatever you like. Make sure you have a high output alt and about 2 D3100s or equivalent in the back.

most of the MECA competitors further up north are all going to the Somerset, KY show the same day... I and another member on here is too.

what size is fuse that keeps blowing, how many amps u got and what's fuse rating on each one and u got any extra batteries in the vehicle?

T-Rock Nigga Yeen Know