shizzzon

if u are unsure if the baffle can handle speaker weight... before installing sub(s), install cross bracing from the baffle to the back FIRST and secure it tightly. then once all that is done, then mount your subs. (this isn't recommended for THIS box in this thread as it would only cause port flow restriction.) However, some subs like the new sundown sub that is coming out is so heavy that it needs support for the motor just to disperse it's weight so it doesn't rip out of the baffle. this was shown few months ago but there are other ways around that happening... The baffle, if already cross-braced, should have had 1\4" allthread run through each mounting hole of every sub and secured from the other side, and GLUED onto the back baffle to secure it if ever needed to be uninstalled. This wouldn't put pressure on just the screws but the entire baffle itself. Having put pressure on baffle would be bad.. but when braced properly, then there is nothing to worry about in that situation either. I believe the baffle should be fine with this design on single baffle. It doesnt hrut to add an extra layer to the outside if the user wants too but i've had 45lb subs mounted to a single baffle wider that this without bracing without problems so i don't really see a BTL which doesnt way no more than 10-20lbs heavier than the sub i used in example to make a difference but it doesnt hurt to add if he so pleases. Another example- My wall My wall holds 4 15s(33lbs each) on a double baffle and each sub cutout only has about 1.5" apart from each other. When i first picked it up.. that baffle was so light and drilled so close together.. many people thought it would just fold on me... IT probably would have if no cross bracing was used. This example is more severe of a time to brace a wall.. Such small thin wood between each cut out. After running 3 3\4" allthread runs through the baffle, this baffle is so strong, i bet i could hold 4 Level 4 XLs in it no problem and they are almost 60lb per sub... Now, the level 5s, hehe i prob have to redo the baffle for them.. They 80lb per sub,

i dont know if u read through this post but i decided not to go through with it. I did some research and found out that most of the time when video encoding, each additional socket only adds about 17% more speed to the whole process so a waste of money... It's ironic you post your pc specs because i gotta build a gaming rig for somebody somewhat like yours. Asus Rampage II with an i7 2.6ghz that wil be OC'ed to around 3.6-3.8ghz within the first 60 days of use and 6gb of Xtreme Corsair Dominator DDR3 sticks, these babies are over $230 so they better be a good OC'er. This board accepts both Crossfire AND SLI but being the new crossfire fan i am when i used to only run nvidia, he's gonna get a 4850 graphics card. Pretty decent goin from AGP and not breakin the wallet much at all. For the OC tweak, we will be installin a $155 air cooled system on the socket to ensure utmost stability using air. I like to modify the surrounding cooling area as well just like in SPL to try and gain cooler temps while Oc'ing to get the best possible. Those GTX285s.... i'm sure they weren't cheap! And speakin of future proofing, i dont know if the sockets will change but i do know that by the end of 2011, Intel is suppose to have 10 or 12core consumer chips on market.

when i mention using dual cards previously, it was pointing towards gaming. benchmarks i've seen are not impressive increases for the FPS. video encoding .. i am unsure of... maybe nvidia would know?

I wouldnt see why not.. The effective bandwith is within the suggested parameters for a sealed box... but Rusty would know best.

glue pieces together with TiteBond, Seal the seams first with Liquid Nails. Once that dries, go back over it with Silicone. Screw screws in every 3-4inches for close holding, predrill all holes prior.

From what many i've heard this from- Optimas have a higher ESR which is a turn off for competition. If u want first hand experience, ask Scottie in the Powermaster forum. He used to run over 50 at once.

well, the sub would fire directly into the port by the time the port length ended. Definitely do not want that.

what? lol. Did you mean to post that? it doesnt fit with the conversation...

hehe just a little over 70"

yea that's 4 ohm for the speakers. Each pair is at 8ohm then paralleled back to 4ohm.