shizzzon

u could have the entire thing done in duraliner! Snoopdan had his entire wall inside and out duralined and it was so thick!, he was doin over 151s with just 2 18s and 1000w amp so it just doesn't look decent but also helps with pressure too.

ok, let's see if i can rephrase this. Port length calculators give you physical length. What the sub reacts to is the acoustical length. You sometimes may accidentally install a design in a car too close to the port exit and may extend the acoustical length causing the port to be tuned lower according to how the port reacts to the surroundings... So... in that previous example- port calculator wants a port to be 20" long. Well, passing over a single sheet of wood of 3\4" thick, the port wall you glue on is actually 19.25" long.... Ok, so now u know the port wall would typically need to be 19.25" long.. glued to back of wall = 20" Well, since now u know where i get the 19.25" from, now u will understand this next part- Port calculators.. unless specifically designed to accept slot port info properly will know when u are using a slot port.... sometimes you must modify the port length answer yourself depending on the port... In this case, you would be using a slot port so you would need to subtract 2" from the physical length requirement... and ADD it to the acoustical length... You might not know the actual acoustical length of a port unless you do some math but u will know that when using a slot port that half it's width is added acoustical length! So when using such port, you must subtract the length the acoustical length will add from the physical length calculated so the port calculator's answer remains accurate. I think i worded that right, hehe. So.. again, 4" wide slot port.. half it's width is 2" Port calls for 20" long... 19.25" port wall attached to back wall internally... If it wasn't a slot, the port wall would be 19.25" long. However, if we keep it 19.25" long using slot port, the sub will react to it being 21.25" long due to the 2" of additional acoustical length added from the use of a 4" wide slot port... Reduce 2" from physical length- 17.25" which will make the sub see the port as being 19.25" physical and the rest acoustically will still fall into play.

the reason i slightly lowered port area is to achieve a shorter port length. It's still within recommendations so no issues. When i design boxes, i don't want the port entrance to be close to the sub obviously so without seeing such pics while designing, that is why you may question the reason why i did it. Also, when designing a port that shares parts of the box's walls, that's a slot port. In a slot port, let's say the box is 10" tall internally. You get a port that is 10" tall and 4" wide and 20" deep. The depth 20" is your physical length, but you also have acoustical length as well. So, in a slot port, you take half of the width which is 2" here and subtract it from the required physical length. So.. let's say this port was attached to a single 3\4" mdf wall that needed to be 20" long.. The port wall depth itself would only need to be 17.25" deep, then add 2" for acoustical length - 19.25" then add 0.75" for wall thickness - 20" The reason why generic calculators may be off is because you also must know what type of surface the port begins and ends on\with. If the port is flared on one end, both ends, or just flush with the outer box, or not flush at all on either end... these all effect port length.

u can keep car audio batts in the house, AGM preferrable, and keep a charger on them when necessary. or... if u need low ohm loaded amps in the house, you can always get PA amps.

for car audio use, i don't think it has enough fo an xmax rating for such power if tuned low... And speaking of power, how is that sub gonna handle it's 800wrms rating on a 2" VC?

ok, just got back from the show and everybody that rolled with me... WE ALL GOT 1st PLACE!! Woohoo! ShiZZZoN - MX2-151.3 Phi - AS1-140.9 Ben Hemp - S3=148.3 Josh Shacklette - S2-145.3\DB3-123.6 We all got 1st place. Then, one of our buddies- Joshua Newton (Team Carlisle\Sundown\XStatic) - M4-155.6! (1st place) Paul Strouth was there! - M5 - 157.2db! (1st place) Paul Strouth also ran in DB5 scoring a 131.3db! (1st place) He uses 3 3500ds and a clam-shelled 6th order bandpass. I could have ran in M4 but decided not to and move myself to MX2 since i want Durock in my car next year... I would have beaten everybody in M4 except for Josh Newton... He runs 8 15s and ~250A worth of fusing burping between 30-35hz to achieve his 155.6db.

durock plus resin = resin + fiberglass + concrete + 1" welded steel for bracing= Holy !@#$@

not if ur ISP isn't dialup.. If you got broadband, then yes, plug the ethernet cable into the laptop and it should work fine. emphasize should, hehe.

didnt know the sundowns dropped again like that.. then I'd also recommend Sundown too. Sundown will outperform the AQ on low voltage for sure.

if all else fails, i can hardwire it through the lan port and get online. Then, u could download remote assistance (free) so i could log onto ur laptop and fix it from here. Unfortunately, even if i had to do that, it would be some time before i would have time to fix it due to all the other work i got lined up.

did u do it exactly in the right order i said? U can't have one driver installed and then try the other without it being uninstalled first! It may be possible that the driver needs to be uninstalled and the laptop restarted before an attempt to install another driver. I can get it working if i had it in front of me so dont throw it away. Even if u gotta wait til Carl Casper.. i can get it workin.

u need to uninstall the exclamation point driver, then try 1 driver i posted a link for.. restart pc after installing and check device manager. If it's still yellow, uninstall it again, and try driver 2 i linked earlier.. restart pc and recheck device manager.

Comparison information- Sundown can be ran between 10-18v. AQ can be ran between 7.5-18.5v. Sundown = ~$650 AQ = $549 (keep up with the news.. they on sale!) Low voltage scenario- Sundown should pull ahead in power output over the AQ but the AQ can still operate on insanely low voltage levels if u tryin to save money and not use any extra batts. Sundown has a higher resell value AQ's repair center is www.amprepaircenter.com AQ physically tests ALL amps that come in from overseas before packaging them up for customers. They pay extra burn-in fee for the builders overseas to test their amps before they are shipped to the USA. They could save money and not do this but they pay for it anyways. Then again, once it's here, they are retested for QC before being shipped to people like us. It is very rare for an AQ amp to be damaged. The repair rate for defects covered under warranty is xtremely low. Only warranty work i know of done to amps is due to UPS failure to properly handle amps but, of course, we all know those horror stories. The AQ amps also come with e clipping indicator light on the remote gain control so u can monitor your amp during playback to ensure you are not potentially causing harm to your sub(s). This helps all those who don't have the right equipment to setup amps do it a lot easier. I have personally tested their clipping indicator tolerance and it will dimly come on before you can visually see a square wave on an o-scope so it's very cautious.

did u install the remote wire run from the head unit to your amp? I would definitely check that first. Your remote out may also be faulty as well but i'm leaning more towards loose connection.

I know just from looking at the state records and competing modex2 will be easier to get points in. Also in ky mod 4 was louder than modex 2. There's also allot more things that are permitted in modex 2 as well so there's more room for upgrading. I highly doubt you will be able to run 24000 watts through 329 amps of fusing even with spreding it over 4 fuses. I know this because my buddy is in mod 4, he has 8 15's and 6 sundown 1500's. He can barely get a burp off with just this amount of power. I currently run 4 80A mANLs. Assuming current draw would be ~845A, that's my belief in hopes it would hold... If it didnt, i can always adjust my master gain so it can only pull a certain amount of current so i don't accidentally pop a fuse when i go knob crazy. I only have 7kw now so i could actually run my comp fuses for daily if i wanted to...

ok, yellow ! point means that either the driver installed is the wrong driver, missing files or not completely done yet. One way is check for the last one is to restart or turn off laptop which i'm sure you have by now, hehe, and turn it back on, go back into device manager and see if it's still there. If it is, right click it and select uninstall driver. At this point, try downloading the other link i sent you. You are to NEVER try to install more than 1 of the same type of driver or it can cause conflicts which i think is what's goin on.

i use only 3\4" rod but i'm crazy too.

well, the results shouldnt be all that good because i've got a lot of tweaks i can do to get it louder. I just want to establish a score first. No biggie, see ya in 4 months.

try some of these links, one of these should work for your wifi driver- ftp://ftp.hp.com/pub/softpaq/sp33501-34000/sp33632.exe ftp://ftp.hp.com/pub/softpaq/sp33001-33500/sp33008.exe

ok, so if there is no yellow or red, then do this, go down to Network and expand the list in here and see if u have one of these in there- Intel PRO Broadcom You should have 2 listings in network and only 2.. if u have more, u will need to type them in here One of those 2 i just mentioned is the WLAN access driver. If u got more than 1 installed, that's bad. If you have neither, that's bad.

do this while i'm researchin- Go to my computer, or computer, right click and select properties. Then up top, select Hardware then below that, select Device Manager. Look in this window and tell me if you see any yellow exclamation points or red x's anywhere. scroll down if u have to. there is no need to expand anything because if there is any, it will show you already expanded in the list.

ok do this, tell me your brand and model number and i'll check out the keyboard layout myself.

refer to your original laptop thread. I can also point you to verify what is and what isn't installed if what i posted earlier doesn't help.

do this- In the lower left portion of your keyboard, typically, there is an FN key. Hold this key and while holding it, look for a key at the top that represents a satellite dispersing waves out.. press that key while holding FN. If a light comes on somewhere on the keyboard or at the lower portion of the keyboard, then u have now enabled Wifi access... It will then find your router and request a KEY (a long password) if it's protected. U get that far, and we might have to do the rest via chatroom or by phone because the next step after that is time consuming if it is protected.

I've decided the next thign i'm gonna do after pullin out the wall is to build a 1" steel thick frame for the next build welded but separated as 2 pieces. Like the top half would be welded with 1" square steel tubing and so will the bottom. They are 2 separate pieces. I would then build the inside using 39ply Baltic Birch (3 13ply sheets) then bolt all sheets through to the outer frame using 3\8" thick solid steel plate runs on the inside. Before building the design itself, i would layer the entire car behind the B pillar with a single sheet of baltic birch or MDF and 2-3 layers of Durock sheeting behind it to create a solid, hard shelled shell in my car to prevent loss of pressure and 0 flex. This design won't commence til a long time from now anyways. Now, my current design, i'm VERY limited on space so internal bracing is required to prevent wall flex behind the port... I'm going to install 1" square wooden dowels EVERYWHERE and see if that helps with pressure. If it doesn't, i'll buy 1.25" ID PVC and split it in half and wrap them around all the dowels to see if the rounded pvc will help air flow around all braces. Other than that.. it's buyin 6 more batts and goin from 7kw to 24kw and seein how loud i can get... THEN.... hehe, i'm tearin out the wall.. Goal is to break 160 at the kick first, then at the head. I'm doin 156s in the kick now so i'm sure i can prob get REAL close to a 160 in the kick with my current setup.