shizzzon

i'm keepin it for a while... don't know when i'll tear it out yet.. or will i? hehe. I will never decide to tear it out until i get my 24,000w of power in the car.

OK, here is scenario- Got a 20A relay on remote turn on wire with 3 amps and some leds on it. The 15A fuse on the relay popped today... that means it drew WAY too much current... i have a short somewhere... I check- 3 wires were pulled out of the remote turn on distro block that was reading ground.... 1 of these wires is an LED wire. The other 2 wires go to my sundown 100.4 and the other wire goes to both AQ3500Ds remote turn on... The LED wire reads 0.0 ohms and the turn on wires for all 3 amps are reading 0.2 ohms.... Is the remote turn on's grounded? Did the led wire cause a massive surge through all the remote turn ons?

thanks. The LED strip that was doing is was cut... These are wheel well lights... The leds are encased in very strong material but output very flimsy 22awg wire. I'm removing all lights going to the block until i get a fuse in line with all of them before they reach the block so if any of them do it again, the amps won't be effected.

Everything works now! That one wire that was grounding was still making contact to my main block.. it's gone now... All amps work fine now. Apparently the fuse that popped before the relay prevented damage so that's good.

i'm afraid the wire will catch fire due to the low resistance... I wil have to find my old atc fuse holder and run a fuse in it to try that.

hehe, i've removed the wiring out of the system... IT's down to the amps now. The troubleshooting step is why are the amps not coming on.. I'm trying to see if it's possible that the low current short could have possibly damaged all 3 amp's remote turn ons...

I'm assuming that 0.2 ohms means ground with resistance somewhere.. If i'm wrong then that could be good or bad depending on the problem... Measured as follows- Once i isolated which wires were reading super low- Connected negative probe to battery ground, positive probe probed each wire separately. I then disconnected the remote turn on wire coming out of the sundown amp and measured as follows- Sundown ground - 0.0 ohms(normal) Sundown remote - 0.2 ohms(i dont think that's normal because DB-R tested resistance on a 1500d an hour ago and it didn't read anywhere near that low) Sundown power - nothing registered(normal)

maximum current draw is less than 3A for everything on there.. that's the whole point of the relay. We know the fuse popped due to the led strip grounding... but even if the led was fused with an itty bitty fuse.. i'm sure the same thing would have happened what i think has happened...

nothing got yanked, i pulled them out to test each wire wired into the block. There were 9 wired ran into this block... 3 were readind 0.2 ohms or lower which was 1 LED wire and 2 remote turn on wires for amps.

i can't remember but do they run on 48v? Also, do all hybrid cars run on the same electrical system volt-wise? Curious as to what will happen eventually when the majority of vehicles are hybrid\all electric...

i've also heard alternative to resin or addition to resin is to sand over resin, if exists, enamel paint(apply before resin if u still want to use resin), turtle wax + armor all. Goal - extreme smoothness.

ok, connected all the basics and fired it up! The system works so i can now continue with routing all cables and finish installing devices. Ran for bout 45 minutes in the BIOS and stays at a solid 32.5C stock. I don't know what the Core temps are though because as us pc people know, the cpu temp in the bios is not the same temp sensor measured for the Thermal spec in the manual... My other order just came in for almost the exact same pc so i gotta go start that build now. I'll be gettin some more pics up soon. I just love this case!

One of my friends wants a new pc, a gaming pc. his current pc is a single core P4 3.0ghz STOCK Alienware, non-OC'ed running the best AGP cards he can find... Funny thing is, he has no lag right now with the games he plays... (he must not be playin real games, hehe) So, recently his fan went out and almost destroyed the chip. I got it workin again but he's gonna give it to his nephew and he wants a new build... :) So, i suggest the following- Intel Core i7 920 (Quad 2.66ghz) ASUS Rampage Gene II (one of very few boards out now that support both Xfire-X and SLI and support for DDR3-2000!) Corsair Certified Xtreme OC 6GB of DDR3-2000 Memory Thermaltake Toughpower XT Monitored 750w PSU Single Rail. Thermalright Ultra120 Xtreme TRU-Black Edition Revision C HSF with Cooljag 110+CFM cooling fan system. Azza Gaming case - 2 5" intakes, 1 10" intake at processor, 1 5" exhaust at processor, 1 10" exhaust at processor. 2 1Terabyte Seagate V12 Hard Drives. HIS EAH4890 OC'ed video Card. Lots of other little stuff that has nothing to do with performance. Total cost after labor and Overclocking fees - Just under $1700. Here is what i am workin with- Here's the cooling system - Here is the memory cooling system - And, my personal OC favorite, , here is the Northbridge cooling system - (i like how ASUS knows that it isn't just the NB that needs protection but the caps as well) And an overview of the montrosity of the cooling system compared to the board itself- Bare Case - And with the mobo in the case- I had to stop right now, but i shall continue the build wednesday. For those who are waiting on box designs... This is one reason.. the other reason is this thursday... I got another order for a pc setup JUST LIKE THIS ONE, just lower OC capable memory and cheaper vid card but everything else is the same.

if u spend almost 200 for a 9a31... then u are not on a budget.i only give 135 shipped whenever i need any

If you are competing, Batcaps are the preferred choice. If you are on a budget, Deka 9a31s or Carquest NG31s ordered in bulk is the way to go.

that's what i was talkin bout i "might" have to do. I've never messed with i7's yet and now i gotta OC this one and another one next weekend after they have been burned in for a week at stock settings. I don't know how hot this thing will get but we'll see starting next weekend.

it's more important at this point to figure out the reason before replacing it. Just out of curiosity.. take a multimeter and connect it to both posts set to ohms and see if it reads somethin on the battery. Very VERY slim chance but it shouldnt read anything. If it does... then the battery shorted itself... again very unlikely. Without knowing how the terminals were on the battery.. i can speculate that one or both terminals on both posts were loose and was arc welding. So, going by speculation, how were the cables secured on the battery?

This is normal for Kinetik's. .These types of batteries do this from time to time, don't worry about it.... I hope u didn't believe that, lol When it was red hot and smokin.. did u by any chance notice if the connections on both power and ground posts on the batt were secured tightly? also, once u took the terminals off, have u traced to where these cables go and make sure it's secured tightly there too? \ Oh.. and do NOT use that battery anymore either. Curious too, have u inspected your other battery up front?

tell him to go into the BIOS and load default settings and i dont care how slow it may be. See if that helps. If that doesnt help, PM me for help. It could be incompatible memory or memory configuration error. Good tip- never try to boost anything in the BIOS on a fresh install of a new system. The settings must be able to be burned in for a while or u can likely have permanent OC problems even if trying to revert to stock speeds.

i got my ride back. Got it back last wednesday. Go to the comp event page and go to the somerset section and read last post. Me and all my comp friends ALL placed 1st down at that MECA show. We destroyed the competition down there. Denim- That's cool. The 920 is the only reasonable chip to buy right now... These i7 chips are $$$ once u want somethin more than the 920, major price jump. the 920 is stock at 2.66ghz. I'm gonna set some OC profiles in his BIOS for OC variable setups and hoping for - a rock solid 3.5ghz (cross my fingers). up to 3.7-3.8 for at least an hour for xtreme demands for short durations. safe cool rock solid around 3.3ghz That's 3 profile goals i have in mind so i'll see if i can get em with this board. This board has so much control over voltage levels it's insane. If i can't get to my xtreme speeds simply because of temps, i'm gonna have to start doin cooling mods inside the case and if i gotta do that, that'll be fun. If i do, I gotta force air to only flow in certain areas or just in one precise direction but i may not need to. I will see in a couple weeks. After the build is done, I'll run the setup for a week straight in the owner's hands to make sure it doesn't ever crash on optimal settings before i start the OC process so there is no complications.

oh, well then u like me then, hehe. I don't get to see u post as often as others in threads i read so i gotta remember you, hehe. Well, at least i found another person with some good humor~

i don't want people to think that they can't have a power hungry setup on a 4 cylinder because that is what you imply about going to a V8. i dont know what's wrong... i'm sure getting any new car will fix the problem but there is something wrong with the current setup for it to be raising temps. That's a new one.

that has nothing to do with it! I got a 4 cylinder and i dont have temp or drag problems. I'm not mechanical savvy but that's not the reason and i know i don't have the best 4cyl engine either.

high output alternators can pull in excess of 10hp away from your engine. I can't have the alt on my car wide open with the AC on or the engine will start to act like it's misfiring.

do u drive an older model honda?