shizzzon

I am working with a new AS1 competitor trying to get them a really nice score this season. Basically, rules are as follows- System must reside in trunk only, car MUST be off and play a song only. Well, he currently did a 140.2 with 2 Fi SSD 10s and an audiopipe 3000w using a 35A fuse. This is my theory- Because MECA's classes are limited on fuses + cone area.. and cone area and power go hand in hand with each other... as long as the space is there... more cone area and less power "should" result in a higher pressure output. He was able to pull just over 100A off that 35A fuse to get his score. We aren't restricted on cone area but cone area + fusing x 10 cannot surpass 550. So, here are the possible choices- 1 10 - 45A fuse 2 10 - 35A fuse 4 10 - 20A fuse 1 12 - 40A fuse 2 12 - 30A fuse 4 12 - 5A fuse 1 15 - 35A fuse 2 15 - 15A fuse Actual volume available set aside, i believe 2 15s would be the ideal setup for such a class and if volume were restrictive, 2 12s would come in line next if they had adequate air space. Even with a 15A fuse, he should be able to pull about 50A long enough to get a score. Because that isn't large amounts of power, to attempt to achieve such a score at low power would require some stout motor strength, good efficiency and lower powered subs(less spiders\softer spiders) for lower power. So, with this thinking, I was looking into the DC Level2s for such application. Whenever i see people running AS1, it's usually single sub setups or dual sub setups with extremely low powered equipment(amateurs). I am trying not to believe that the key ticket to success is a single sub setup with massive power, while this can be possible, i'm venturing into other ideas right now. If anyone has any insight in this class, AS1, and some other ideas or anything, let me know. I know if he went with a single 12, he can run a 40A which should get him up to pull around 1500w which is plenty of power... There are options but since this is our 1st sanction competing year, i'm unfamiliar with past setups.

nah, get ben to deliver it, You don't want the sheets cut exactly in half because you never know when u could have needed an extra couple inches down the run of that sheet.

first thing we need to do is do a sub swap and see if u gain anything. Then we need to do box testing(may not) and then build a box for those 2 10s with 10,000sqin of port area, lol and see what u do then. Remember though, your trunk is gonna be isolated from the rest of the cargo area for this new build so I expect a major improvement in your score. Since the trunk will be isolated, that means we can do all kinds of mods to the interior wood design without effecting your trunk such as bolt down, extensive bracing, sanding, etc...

i'd like to just do a quick sub swap and see if u gain or drop anything... As soon as u get some more wire installed, that'd be the first thing to try. After that, time to start doin some box testin(might not do this though) and then go ahead and build a new box for those 10s with 10,000s

2 audiobahn eternals.same as the original Immortals built by Resonance, just with a 2.5" coil.they can move off of low power, thats why i mentioned them.

oh, i just remembered, i got 2 10s u can try and see if they any louder than those ssds. they got softer spiders and got pretty loud off 600w to the ear. u can wire them together at 4 ohm too. one of the 10s is partially messed up so if u damage it, i dont care.

well, i understand if he had to try and fit but he's got bout 7cuft gross in that trunk.thats good for a 15, 2 12s or 2-4 10s all with bout 120sqin of portif he dont mind spendin money on wood throughout the season, i'd like to try many designs

u seem to tell me that all the time when i'm not just reading it.. i've been told this from actual human beings.... I've also read this from multiple review sites.. The best research is to obtain info from multiple sources.. or at least that's what i've learned in college long ago. When a common denominator is found, it's usually the right one. Hell, my cousin's plasma screen is horrid but he also only paid $800 for a 50" so that's probably why. I know movie enthusiasts may prefer plasma over LCD due to the better blacks and no backlight bleeding, etc... but with all reviews and others opinions laid aside, i'm not a plasma lover because it doesn't fit my needs and many others agree with my opinion as well even when they go window shopping on their own. Nobody gonna win this argument since it's now opinion based.

well, i've already considered the idea of having his entire trunk built all around in wood then build a box from within. Brace and attach the box to the outer wooden case for more support. His current setup with his SSDs are in 3cuft net with a non-tunable port, just using ~55sqin of port tuned to an approximate number he peaks at. I know with a tunable port AND more port area would help a lot. I got a design that can give him 120sqin of port so more port area isn't the problem.. tunable port is but i can overcome that once i get there. I want to see him reach a 145 by the end of the competing season. That's a 5db increase. I don't think i can get an extra 5db out of just a different box and trunk design compared to the box he has now... but we got 11 more months before finals so we'll see what happens. Before he changes subs anyway, we already had planned on building a new box for his current setup anyway, that's the cheapest solution.

While WinISD may be able to show you Port Velocity... it will be just as wrong as assuming the spl graph will have the same response graph in the car... The Port Velocity graph changes based on power input... Ok, common sense... but here's the problem- The program attempts to calculate impedance rise at every note. This program has and can never be right at calculating impedance rise because there are 1,000s of ways of building a box equaling the same NET volume and different materials, bracing, etc... The result- if the impedance calculation is wrong compared to real world testing, then the port velocity graph will also be wrong.

Just got back from doin other division testing... I had also planned on doing Driveby as well in MECA. Still using the comp port in my ride tuned to peak at 50hz, i peaked on a roll out 6ft back at a 127.2db today, non-averaged. I got me some songs to create for Driveby but i got the HIGHEST peakin driveby car around, I peak at 47hz outside, try and get that loud that high. I got a new round of tweakin to do for Driveby so i'll be keepin the wall in for some time now.

If u are on a budget and want a large flat paneled 1080p or 720p TV, get LG or Samsung. From the specs and TONS of reviews i've read about many manufacturers.. LG and Samsung is your best bet. I do remember Panasonic, Sharp, Sony and Vizio having terrible life expectancies on their tvs. Too many reviews out there and warehouse employees i've talked to about these brands and the returns they see. I do believe Samsung rivals over LG though but LG is usually slightly cheaper too. 720p will be cheaper than 1080p. Make sure the tv at least accepts a 1080p signal. I would stick with LCD. While Plasma is a lot cheaper.. there are reasons why. Plasma is a dying technology mainly. Most to all of Pioneer's Plasma Engineers recently quit and all went to Panasonic... ironic.. Pioneer made some of the BEST plasmas and now with these people at Panasonic, there's no telling what they plan on doing. Plasma's gradually loose their lighting overtime and are far more susceptible to burn ins vs LCDs. (PS - when looking for a TV, look for some sort of "Pixel Shifting Technology" Samsung uses this. IT's to prevent burn in on still mages on the screen.) LED tvs should be cheaper than LCDs because it doesnt' cost as much to make but we all know how the market works.... Once the technology pays for itself, i expect LED tvs to plummit in price over the next couple years. I wouldnt go to a retailer because you will get jacked on price. Here are some suggestions- LG 37LH30 Samsung LN32B460 Some Panasonic lines are better than others. Toshiba is a good tv but usually a little more pricey for no reason. Try to avoid the sharp Aquos tvs as they are proned to a typical 2yr failure rate from what a warehouse employee told me about them. and vizio... i never tend to buy the cheapest priced equipment when you are looking for the highest quality picture.

What does best mean to you? Least expensive? Highest potential pressure levels? Cleanest sounding? Smallest box requirement? Lightest install?

what? get away from impedance rise?

Single Dual 1 ohm in series is 2 ohms. Quad 1,2 and 4 ohm subs can also be wired as 1, 2 or 4 ohms as well using parallel/series wiring method. Also, when troubleshooting, the following should be noted- If trying to make sure you have wired your subs correctly, look below for the load range your multimeter will read in- Before measuring resistance on your DMM, touch probes together. IF it reads 0, then you are ready to measure. If it reads something other than 0, then subtract this number from your measured reading to get the actual resistance reading. 8 ohms - 4.8-7.8 ohms 4 ohms - 2.4-3.9 ohms 2 ohms - 1.2-1.9 ohms 1 ohm - 0.6-0.9 ohms 0.5ohms- 0.35-0.45 ohms 0.25 ohms-0.17-0.22 ohms

thermal protection? is the amp hot? Measure voltage at the power\ground terminals instead of the rear battery. If neither lead to the answer.. i would check that ohm load again with the stereo off. Nothing else would make sense if it's not low voltage, heat or low ohm load... These are the three main things that causes protection faults at high volumes.

well, i'm not keen to memphis equipment but just on the protect mode itself, when you play a test tone, does the sound of the sub change right before it goes into protect? You will need to be listening to the front fo the sub to be able to tell. IF the sound output from the sub changes and sounds odd right before going into protect, you may have a signal issue causing the amp to go into protect. I recently diagnosed a vehicle with that issue locally who is running a sundown 3000d. His preouts on his head unit needed to be grounded due to some defect in the headunit.

maybe you don't have enough power? I got a buddy on here runnin 2 10s ported off of 2000w and those subs want more power.. just a smaller box. We can't add more power to his current box because they move too much right now. It sounds decent but i know they can get louder. He did a 140.2 on music with the car off with that setup off a 35A fuse. I'm pretty sure he can surpass a 142.5 with the car on with test tones but never really tested it since he doesn't compete in that method. Gonna try and get him a 145 with the car off before the competing season is over in the trunk with the same setup.

sealed box is probably why. You are probably more used to listening to ported designs. Play some tones or music above or around the 50hz range, i'm sure that area is decently loud in that box. Get a dmm and measure ohm load at amp's terminals with the stereo completely off. You should be reading no lower than ~1.3 ohms (after accuracy compensation) If it's reading 0.6-0.8 or 2.8-3.2, it's wired incorrectly.

SPEAKER FOAM TAPE from partsexpress... That stuff helps pretty good.

you can't cut a baffle so perfect that no air wouldnt escape if you do have air leaks around the sub... The wood would have to lip over the sub's mounting points... You know how hard it is just to drop a sub in a hole that precise? Me and a buddy did that one time... we had to use allen wrenches ran through the mounting holes of the sub to perfectly drop it into place. One slight angle... and the sub wouldnt fit... It was a bitch!

yes, your subs didnt come with one? You can go to partsexpress.com and use speaker foam. For competition seals, you can use duct tape and weather stripping.

The more strands you have... the thinner the wire has to be to maintain the same surface area so if comparing equal surface areas... then the wire with the MORE strands should be more flexible without taking into consideration the jacket they are in! The Kolossus Flex cable i use is very very flexible and it's using a different jacket to house the wire in.

http://www.mecacaraudio.com/flyers/10-24-09KYv3.pdf Who's going? This is one of the many first 2x events of the 2010 competing season and probably the 1st sanctioned one i'll be attending. So.. if any one of u guys want to come see a walled Scion tC, i'll more than likely be there.

is the clipping light ever coming on when u got all these settings maxed out? If it's not, u got a filter turned on somewhere.