shizzzon

solenoids and isolators are different. Also, like Jay-cee said, you wouldnt need one if your front and rear battery is the same. If they are different, it's suggested as different battery technologies, makes and age can make batts drain off each other til one dies. This is a longterm process but once a cell is damaged, it's all bad from there. If u get another deka in the back, u can skip the need for a solenoid.

From a very good company- http://www.oznium.com/relay200 Pay no attention to how others wired it up, it needs to be turned on via ignition wire, not remote turn on wire on stereo. You can "technically" power it off remote turn on stereo wire but if u do, it's safer to buy a smaller 5pinned relay so this massive relay doesn't try to pull too much power out of the stereo's turn on lead plus you gotta turn the stereo on just to keep the rear batt charged if it's in a slight discharge state so... it's better if you use ignition wire.

ahh.. it's coming together now... so optima up front, hc800 in the rear, 120A alt and 3 amps... I'm gonna go out on a limb and "suspect" that the optima and kinetik were fighting with each other over time with them not being isolated in anyway possible. Doesn't Optima's battery technology differ from Kinetik? I believe it does but can't remember for sure. Anyways, you don't want that for one. At the least, a solenoid(high amp relay) will "isolate" your front from your rear batt(s) when the car is off. 2nd, it's possible that longterm play with the stock alt prevented the batts from being charged back up properly but i am leaning towards this possibly not being the problem and more towards the first one over a long term period. I believe if you had insufficient charging capability that it would have been a problem just after a couple weeks of crankin it all the time. For such a setup, i would suggest you keep the deka up front, i'm assuming it's a 9A31? that's 100aH. And get another 9A31 in the rear with a high output alt. that should do you in perfectly.

caps n batts are not choices. a cap is not to be used in substitute of a battery when a battery is required. Anyways, let's look at your last setup so you can get on the right track. You had stock battery up front, HC800 in the rear, stock alt. what amps were you using at the time? Also, what is your stock alt rated at and what car do you drive?

yea, nothin wrong with it. It's a choice between mechman and dc power. Whichever is cheaper is the way to go.

well, i'm assuming you put the original back on and it's better, right? You also might wanna look at the pulley that's on that new alt. If it can accept a smaller pulley.. then that's why it needs to be revved so high.

well, it's good that they are with an oscope. Did you by any chance set your subsonic filter mechanically or just guessing? What i would do is start where u are tuned at first. I don't know what u r tuned at so let's say u are tuned at 32hz. Let's cut back a few Hz, so lets get a 25hz tone. Since your gains are already set, this is gonna be easy. Take your subsonic filter and turn it all the way UP and put your head unit on the volume level you set the gain at. Now, start playing the 25hz tone for example. It should be pretty quiet since the filter is turned all the way up. Slowly start to turn it down while watching sub movement. When the subs reach a point that it either visually appears to be reaching it's xmech(not xmax) value or has bottomed out, one of the two(don't damage your subs), stop turnin the filter down as u have reached the proper point mechanically. Know the limits of your subs thermally too. don't spend a lot of time doin this as u could damage the coils.

typically, if nobody knows what it is... it's either not made or only sold out of the country in which case $$$. I hope u find out what it is because i have no idea at all.

some of my local comp buddies that use(d) trucks would have sub up port to driver side. Height and depth the same dimensions. So, for example, if using a 12, height and depth would be about 15 inches external and width would be about 2.5-3ft long with external aeros. Single sub design off of 3kw-6kw can give 146-150s off a single 12 if competing so this box design is quite efficient.

It looks like it's made by BlurrAudio. It's called a BA Fuzzy 2000.1

lol never a good sign if you have to try and call at a certain time. a friend of mine called DC later in the day and got another answer right away. if Mechman was out of the office for a few days, I'm sure they were busy I'm not holding it against them. You misunderstood my post. I didnt say nor imply i wait til 430 to call... that's just when i'm available to call him, not the other way around.

I like u better if i had $10

I don't understand... i've called Mechman throughout the year bout 4 times and never not got a response and stay on the phone however long it took. I typically call around 4:30pm EST so right that down, lol.

you must have been doin somethin way wrong to rip those leads... I run 2 3500ds and 4 level 4s with NO subsonic filter at all, it's set at 5hz so basically no filter and i never have problems. IF you think your settings are right, you may wanna recheck your box especially a new one and make sure it's top notch.

it's up to you but you got a design flaw since u not breakin a 150 yet with that much power. One main thing i see immediately is your port area. You would benefit GREATLY if u rebuilt a new ported box, stay with 12cubes NET and build a massive port using roughly 300sqin minimum, 500sqin recommended but may not have the room. Make sure you built it as long as possible and test it. Take the port out, cut an inch off and test again and keep doin it til u get your highest score with this monsterous port then rebuild it permanently.

u better get your bear-ass back in the garage and install your wire!

Competitors don't like the show because the people who run Carl Casper do NOT allow competitors to demo their rides whatsoever and are NOT allowed to leave with their vehicle till after 11pm. Once you pull in, your vehicle is locked in the building til all spectators leave. Because it's in a building, i can understand sound dispersing quite a ways but no demos regardless of output level? that's pretty strict. So smokie, u've been everywhere, huh? What have you been doin to have to move so many times? You a serial killa, lol

Yea... i'd be hittin myself across the face if i had time to do that and not outside tweakin my wall and doin tests...

Weather affects voltage, the colder it is the higher your vehicle voltage will be until engine parts start running and warming up the vehicle (thats why batteries have higher CCA-Cold Cranking Amps than CA-Cranking Amps). While the termperature may effect the voltage, CCAs are ALWAYS lower than CAs. Only Short Circuit or Burst ratings are higher than CA. The colder the temperature, the less a battery can disperse at one time.

let it sit for a good 8hrs or so overnight and start it up in the morning.if it still reads that low, might have lost some tension in the belt somehow.. that or it's outputting a lot of current because the batt(s) are low.

nothing is wrong from just the available info i have.have someone rev your engine to 2-3krpm and measure it. it should be close to 15v if aftermarket alt metered at alternator

the higher notes will typically make you feel it poundin ur chest, like in the 50hz range. The high 30s to 40s will typically start to hurt your ears first or at least mine. So.. if u want the low lows.. you better be pushin a LOT of power to be able to get the higher range to output enough pressure to pop your lungs out, lol it could simply be just the way the sub is loading. Does the passenger side seem louder to your ears\body than the driver side? It don't matter.. bring that setup down here, we'll put it on a meter and see what's up. Maybe even get you to gain a db or two before you leave,

That's one of my buddies rides. Stock alt, stock batt i believe and a whole bank of battcap 2000s in the back of the truck bed in a tool box. He's powering 2 Sundown 3000Ds off of a single 12" sub doin close to a 149 right now. HERE IS THE REASON- Multi runs of power is to ensure lowest possible voltage drop. Multi runs of ground is to ensure that if the ground location being used on the rear batts isn't good enough, the parallel ground run from front to rear batts will compensate to ALSO ensure lowest possible voltage drop. That pic above, as of right now, he's got ALL spots ran. 16 runs of 2/0 cable for power and ground.

from experience, i would never go to the conclusion of installing a wall unless you plan on running TONS of power. You can almost always get louder than a wall without running a wall. It's running a wall that let's you sustain spl output for bassrace that helps. So, you could say that for daily driving, it's a good idea... well, it depends. Have you tried everything else? Unless you have tried multiple setups, multiple boxes, large range of power usage.... would it then be advisable. You can sustain spl in a non wall as well but it requires lots of cone area to do it and if you can't fit it in a non-wall, then a wall is the preferred method. It all depends on your goals. I'm willing to bet that i can clear a 160 in a non-wall in my scion tc. I always have ideas floating in my head about my car and others and know my options. I know it would take some work and dedication but i think it would be easier to do it in a non-wall too.

An installer isn't gonna spend the time to position a box just perfectly before u leave with the car. What you are hearing is a certain small range of frequencies that are maturing by the time it reaches your ear. 1\4 wave length theory.. there are also variations of that theory like half wave and all that. If you had a meter, i'm sure reinstalling the sub properly would achieve even higher spl. I'm not into SQ competition so i can't help you on that part of the question.