shizzzon

nope i got u beat.... by far.... Fallen soldiers..... I never mean serious disrespect but i do enjoy comedy quite often.

Hey, i found a clip of him talkin to someone when SSA had videochat....

keep talkin like that and i will remove your posting privileges

this thread is full of worthlessness and i am going to close it....

then that's somewhat interesting. Having car on with a test tone can gain u 2-2.5db typically. oh ps... next time u go to a show.. i gots some music for you, automatic increase u need a song with a constant focus on a single tone with a rhythmic beat in between to be legal... i gots u covered. Songs like this are more efficient on your amp's current draw for a sustained period of a couple of good full tilt seconds without it drawing extra power for useless frequencies that will only heat your subs up and drop your score.

um.. if they are special... then they must be the BTLs... otherwise he's full of And don't get all happy... u can't run that kind of equipment in AS1 anyways.

The beginning of the end has happened... I hope we can still communicate before the meet this weekend...

ported is many times more efficient than sealed. So noticeable in fact a quick box swap from sealed to ported using same sub can be easily noticeable in the pressure increase. For the human ear to distinguish it immediately shows just how much of a difference a ported design is. An average rule.. not so much for every design but think for every 2 subs sealed will equal 1 sub ported. There is no exact science here but to expect 4 15s sealed should reach(notice how i said reach instead of equal or surpass) the output capability of 2 15s ported... but there are other factors such as power that can greatly effect this guessing game. IT's getting pretty easy nowadays to break a 150 with 2 15s for a comp box but 4 15s sealed... that's an interesting challenge.. Most people wouldnt do it because it's wasted money.

what are you running, what vehicle and what amps?

i have never seen a cheaper is better for high output alternators unless it's only by a few bucks but 50% difference... no, don't go that route. Cheaper alts have this to worry about over a well built one- Is the output rating cold or hot? What is the idle output? What is the idle rpm rating at idle output? How is the cooling system at peak output? How long can is sustain maximum output? What is the maximum alt rpms it can receive before failure? What is the maximum output rpm rated at? What is the voltage regulator set at if internally regulated? Is it direct bolt on or is modification required? Will it effect or is it controlled by the car's computer? Do i need an overdrive pulley for proper idle output? Did I lock the door today when I left to go to work? Am I pregnant or did I eat too much today? Once you know these answers, you can distinguish the good from the bad.

oh no, we aren't meeting at the zoo. That's just the closest place to our meet. The actual meet is at the Riverport off Intermodal drive.

Box is going in a Tahoe. Fi BL 15 5.0cuft NET @32hz using 108.5sqin of port. Awaiting Hunterp223's approval.

actually, that's not how it's designed, it's designed to have sub up, port back. The reason why the rear is double baffled is because it isn't braced and the top doesn't need to be. If you like it, refer to your pms.

no cuz it's angled on both sides. I think it's a ULO - unidentified lying object.

yea, i havent read the whole post but was leaning towards if it's tuned a little higher than what he wants, he could back the tuning way low so the difference in the upper and lower range isn't as noticeable. u could just do what i do.. while i do like the lows, i don't like them to dominate the entire car either. my last 2 cars physically falled apart from tuning too low with under 2kw. What i like to do personally is tune low but use small boxes. That way, you get just enough lows to satisfy but a monsterous upper range because tuning low in small boxes allows the box to not peak until further on down the range. For example- when i tune my wall to 27hz, i peak at 48hz. When it's tuned to 33hz, it peaks around 54-56hz. And i'm not missin the lows either.... u can ask those who have sat in it before. Again, this is personal preference. Just another idea to throw out there.

Bia Bia peaks above 60hz so it's typical that this song sounds terrible in most setups that are tuned low. If you want well rounded bass like that, go either sealed or tune REAL low to try and get a flat response.. or just tune in the low 40s and lose some low end. Either way, you are gonna lose peak output potential somewhere in the playing range. also, that 30001d is a BEAST. I metered this amp doin over 1200w at 7.3ohms so u WAY OFF if u think it only does 900w @2ohms.

here is a design for you- Note that i will not give port length because for competition, that is a pure trial and error thing to find out for yourself so the port lengths shown are for reference. The picture shows a theoretical tuning of ~39hz, HOWEVER because i left some space to the left side of the box, the acoustical length could actually increase length by as much as 20" simulating the entire height of the box and then some resulting in a very low tuning. Won't know til you try... The pic shows dual 6" ports (aeros highly suggested) that will NET somewhere in the 5.5cuft range +\- .3cuft due to port changing. The box is for a single 18 or can be used for a single 15 as well. If used for a 15, you could then add cornering. Do not add permanent cornering if using an 18 as the design is low on space but feasible.

u can locate it at the meet,

ok, what time?

that's what i've tried to tell people before. Those who like pure ground pounding bass turn to AQ as that's what they do. Ironically, they do not focus on competition but just pure reliability for crazy loud bass for street systems. The 1000wrms rating for the HDC3s are NOT to be taken seriously if you are an experienced user. The copper series can easily take up to 2,400w daily and the aluminum close to 4,000w.... even though they are all rated at only 1000wrms. You wanna compare HDC3 to BLs... try comparing them to the BTLs in terms of thermal handling. Then you really get to see the savings. I would probably say though that a BTL would be more efficient than an HDC3 in the lanes but you never know til u try it. The HDC3s have an awesome cooling system on them, it's the main reason they can handle so much power. But with awesome cooling systems... don't expect superior motor strength.. or can you? Your 10 should way around 48lbs, pretty massive.

I'm curious as to what happened. It's possible a low voltage situation caused it to blow. I wouldnt use MAXI fuses either. I don't know if you know but in MECA, MAXI fuses are banned because they can accept a LOT of juice through these fuses before they finally pop so if over-current is the problem, that is more than likely why the MAXI fuse didnt pop. These sundowns are built quite strong and can put out a LOT of power. I'm sure it was a low voltage situation that caused it. You may need an extra battery in the rear. If you put new fuses in the amp and it pops immediately, then you have a serious problem and do not troubleshoot it but contact Sundown instead.

there is more than one type of 9a31, there are 3 that i know of.

9A31, go to www.remybattery.com If you ever need to buy them in bulk, let me know, i know a guy that has good hookups on them.

read what i posted earlier too, if u get another deka, don't get the solenoid as it wouldnt be necessary.

because you are bound by the typical retailer crap that has been passed down from hear-say for years