shizzzon

i'll let u guys tackle this oen while i get a harder one in the works.

Very Good.. Now a new one, this one isn't as hard.... or is it? You have 2 American coins that add up to 35 cents. One of the coins is not a dime. What are the coins?

nope, he only has $2

just install everything as is and keep electrical stock. If you have voltage problems and concerned about weight at same time, replace stock battery with largest battery that can fit in there from kinetik, xs power, power surge, deka, stinger, odyssey, etc.... Also, add a 1/0 cable run from alt positive to battery positive, add 1-2 1/0 grounds from battery ground to chassis and run 1/0 from front battery to amp. If amp doesn't support 1/0, step it down through your inline fuse holder to 4awg.

my wall is screwless in terms of running screws throught the thickness of the wood. I used nothing but L brackets and plenty of bonding glue and joint glue inside to build the wall. It did a 155 in the kick off a SINGLE layer of wood so i think the joints are pretty strong.

well then, i hope the rest of CACO realizes this because when the VCM gets released next week... this is their impressional use.

7 cubes per is fine, nothin wrong with that.

the easiest way i know of would be to install the XS VCM and replace all batteries in the car with XS 14v AGMs. It is kinda expensive but to maintain 16v daily.. it isn't cheap. Daily means sustained use and 16v sustained use is around the max in car electronics can handle.

if it were me, i'd go about 8 cubes per driver.

i set my subsonic filter to maximum excursion without bottoming out. Subsonic filter settings vary with power applied... Sometimes you need not use it at all, other times, up in the 40s even if tuned below that... It all depends on the install.

i always try and run a minimum of twice the rated power to all my subs but u gotta make sure that u don't reach the thermal or mechanical threshold while doing so. More power requires smaller boxes and less to no clipping.

honestly, if u could wire both of your 15s to a 2 ohm load, i'd opt for an Audiopipe 3000d for $310 when tryin to save some money if u want monsterous power. Phi on here is runnin a pair of ssd 10s off that amp at 4ohm(2,000w) and they NEVER get warm! These SSDs want about 1,500-1,800w per driver non clipped for them to be reachin their thermal limits. I must warn you though. Based upon my experience with the SSDs, if you do try and run that much power, make sure that the box that is being used is about the smallest size Fi's recommends or else they will bottom out in no time. Phi has his 2 10s in a 3cuft box and his subsonic filter must be turned up in to the 50s to compensate for the low end. The box needs to be smaller for daily use.

when u reach a certain box size like u got now 2.24 cubes at 30.9hz, this is what u should know- Decreasing internal volume will raise tuning. Increasing internal volume will lower tuning. Increasing port area while maintaining same port length will increase tuning. Decreasing port area while maintaining same port length will decrease tuning. Increasing port length will lower tuning. Decreasing port length will raise tuning. pick a route to go to get to your goal.

please don't use spl headunit.. someone else did that not too long ago and didnt make any sense.

Wow, PA just convinced me to smack them across the face... Apparently they have built this amp and probably the whole line 100% for market hype and what people hear through the grape vine of things to look for when purchasing a high powered amp... Dual power n ground terminals.. Yes, a plus on amps that NEED them.. hint hint... I can say that it has a nice case design.. is that it? I doubt it can do it's 3,200w rating... I don't know why but all high powered amps i see do not use onboard fusing... I don't know why that is but this does and is sticking out and i'm confused... I'm gonna go eat turkey...

hey, that looks like my sketchup file? How ironic, Sounds like u gettin there perfectly. before u get too excited, if i didnt tell u a long time ago, when making the plug for the top half of the port, make sure the pieces that slide in those slits are just slightly smaller than perfect because if those pieces are about a perfect match for those slits i showed u a long time ago, once u force it in.. it isn't commin out without a WAR! so ease just a little on those pieces so it's an easy slide in and out, but not so easy it just falls out, lol.

that's because the tv is so damn hot!

After talking with some people i know and explaining to them what happens to a box when it is exhibited with 155db+, i finally started to get some tips on making our boxes stronger and in the direction of less flex. Cars like mine have not as much room as other cars do of like size. My car for example is impossible to stack 2 15s on top of each other in a wall... that's not fair, hehe. So, the point i'm making is in order for someone like me to get a monsterous build in my car, like anyone else, it requires a monsterous build with monsterous bracing techniques. Most people who are way up there in the competition lanes are using concrete, sand, multi + multi + multi layers of mdf, welded steel frames, 2x4s around the entire enclosure, etc... While all of these techniques yield great bracing, there are two drawbacks, weight and the ability to undo changes 100% to the car. Now, i have the task in my car to try and get what i want in my car but be able to come up with bracing tactics that do not require a lot of space being lost in the car. This is where it gets tricky. How tricky? My current wall is only a SINGLE layer of mdf with a double baffle but with my current bracing techniques, i am able to pull off over 155db in the kick... The rear wall flexes like an earthquake but i get the score done! This is not acceptable when it comes to increasing my score though and other methods, new methods to me, are to be tried. Before i begin, just put this into your subconscious- Resin is my friend.. resin is my friend... i cannot do anything without my resin ok, my current wall consists of 3\4" all thread ran through the front baffle in 3 places and through the rear in the center. It runs in other places but this will talk about just the rear wall since it is suffering the most. I also have flat steel runs on the rear wall bolted through to the other side.. This is NOT helping whatsoever... I was also told if i got some more flat steel and bolted both pieces from inside to outside to each other.. it wouldnt make a single difference either. 1st suggestion - counter-brace the connection by running the inside steel vertical and the outside steel horizontal... This offers more surface area. While sitting there talking about some other methods.. we finally came across a method that sounds interesting. We all know that steel square tubing is virtually unflexible since it's bent into a square... Well, first thought was just to attach this tuning to the inside and outside counter-bracing with bolts but that wouldnt work as well as expected because only where the bolts are is where the brace is effective! Any space between the wood and steel that is not bolted will be able to flex under high pressure.. So how do we overcome such obstacle? Resin is my friend resin is my friend. After talking about it for a while, we came up with this solution- Let's say we have a wall that is 36" tall and 36" wide. We have 1" steel square tubing and a bucket of resin and lots of bolts and washers and nuts. We will be counter-bracing the steel bars. Inside, vertically installed, will be 4 runs from top to bottom and outside will be 4 horizontal runs from top to bottom. This is how it will look but not the complete process. (You will need to predrill ALL connection points prior to preparing resin or u may lower the strength of this method when trying to run bolts) Get some resin and hardner ready(use long pot life)... Apply small amounts at one time, enough for only 1 bar at a time. Find where u are going to be mounting the bar, make the resin like you normally would, not too too gooey and apply it to the wall section that the steel bar will be placed at. Make sure you place PLENTY of resin in this small area from top to bottom. You want the steel bar to actually rest in it. Once you have enough on there, place the steel bar on this resin and allow the resin to completely fill any pours and gaps between the wood and this steel bar. Now do this to the rest of the internal runs which is 3 left. Once they are all done, go to the outside and run resin over all the marks for horizontal runs and when applying the steel bars to the outside, start running all your bolts through the outer bar, through the wood, through the inner steel bar and out of that. This way, when the resin offically dries and cures, the bolts are now a part of the bonding. The bolts are also to help you not have to hold it while you prepare the other 3 horizontal runs too. Now, once all 8 bars have been set in place and bolts have been ran through, go ahead and tighten the hell out of these bolts. Once they are all tight, now we get some more resin together. Once the new batch is ready, apply this resin over aLL bars and along the sides. Goal - to ensure that the resin will cure between the wood and steel, and along both sides of the steel to the wood AND to have a nice smooth roll off from all steel bars so there are not sharp edges which could cause turbulence inside. If you want an even stronger brace, for all steel bars to be used, weld adjacent steel bar runs before applying the bars one at a time(may require more than 1 person to help you work) so that steel bars can be bracing more than 1 wall at a time once all resin is dried and cured. You can also use wood instead of steel of competing in classes that do not allow steel. This will prevent the wood from flexing away from the inner steel and into the outer steel when done right, when using enough resin. You can also attach another layer of mdf in front of the steel tubing inside for a perfect flat wall. Once the resin dries, the material used for bracing will have bonded to the wood at every point possible. And yes... this will be something i'll be doing soon. Welcome to competition

I want you guys to post things here such as materials and bracing methods used to create the stiffest, non-flex box out there and how it's done. I'm tryin to find some materials so when i go to tear down my wall that i have something to fall back on. I've came across this but the comments are up in the air... Some competitors say it's good... others who haven't used it say it won't hold up... Durock... I had visioned on using 5 layers of 5\16" thick in between 2 layers of 0.75" MDF = approximately 3" thick total material. Then cross brace it with - 0.75" all-thread. Now, i'm looking for the stiffest out there... I had read to pour resin in, on and around each Durock layer wedged in between the MDF to prevent air pockets between each Durock layer. Do you guys have other suggestions for making a very stiff box?

lol, that's a good one!

Unfortunately, the sundown 3000w install was whack because the head unit's preouts were going crazy so the amp couldnt be turned up high enough for an accurate comparison. I will post spec of the amp anyway but shouldnt be compared 100% accurately because the volume level wasn't the same as the other 2. Sundown 3000d- Voltage - 11.8v Current Pull - 122A Wattage pull - 1440w Voltage Out - 18.6v Current Out - 64.6A Wattage Out - 1202w Actual Resistance - 3.47 Ohms Efficiency - 83.5% (Test not fair) Powerbass 3000D- Voltage - 12.15v Current Pull - 119A Wattage Pull - 1446w Voltage Out - 62v Current Out - 19.7A Wattage Out - 1221w Actual Resistance - 3.15 Ohms Efficiency - 84.4% Audiopipe AP30001D- Voltage - 11.8v Current Pull - 170A Wattage Pull - 2006w Voltage Out - 92v Current Out - 18.5A Wattage Out - 1702w Actual Resistance - 4.97 Ohms Efficiency - 84.8% Notice how the Audiopipe is more efficient than the powerbass with less voltage, does more power at a higher ohm load and is cheaper.

u gonna have to turn those preouts down some. Don't wanna risk on damaging some of the inputs on these amps! Sundown's accept 6v max and Audiopipe accept 5v max. What u tryin to do, kill us all?!?!

yea but Ben is already gettin a new deck anyway, that slide out IVA deck.

Welcome

What is your budget, that will narrow the results down real quick. We would need to know what all is needed to be purchased too. As far as i know, u will need the sub(s), amp, wiring for both and box built. I can say that stock electrical system should be able to handle up to 1,000w.