shizzzon

Please elaborate because without current, there is no wattage. My oscope has a setting to calculate wattage but it's only based upon what ohm load you want it to calculate with which is funny since you can't know the actual load without voltage and current.

i tend to read reviews from multiple sites until i find one, a decent one. I typically don't spend no more than $50 for a DMM, $150 for an ammeter and $200 for an oscope.

I completely forgot to answer your question, lol. You take a DMM and set it to AC volts and connect it to your speaker terminals on the amp which is easiest. You also take an ammeter and clamp ALL wires of the same polarity together coming off that amp only. If you clamp + and - it will not read anything. So, you then get a live reading of AC volts x AC amps and this will give you wattage output. It's easiest to measure on a sine wave and have sturdy connections!

i dont know what they are rated at... I also dont know what u are expecting to hear either. Only way to know is just do it and then comment on any complaints you "might" have. If u do, then i\we can tell you why based upon what a problem might be.

every frequency will put out different, or should i say it better- Every different note will be at a different resistance, therefore output power "should" be different. However u can have a resistance of 2.65ohms put out 150w and 1.8ohms put out 150w.. How is that possible? When the resistance was higher, the note being played had a lot higher amplitude than the lower resistance note did. that's why i had to reword that. Also, because resistance fluctuates, we base power like u said 450w off of amplifier power.. When u put a 1,000w amp on a sub, it isn't gonna see 1,000w, it's just wired that way to specifications... Lots of times, it may only see 200w or less off a 1000w amp so when using a 450w amp, it's really gonna be low split among three subs. The only way to compensate would be to use LARGE enclosures. Just like i plan on runnin 39,000w of rated power to 3 subs next year... Now, i know they wont see that. Hell, they probably won't even see a total of 15,000w of actual power... But, that's not the point or the goal for me. The goal is to ensure i can get lots of power so i can provide a boat load of CLEAN power to the subs for long term metered use such as bassrace or driveby or the new 60sec FCBC competition coming next year around Louisville only(as of now).

it's divided by the number subs being used. Although with that amp, each sub will probably see 50watts... You'd be amazed how loud 10-20w per driver is if u ever measure output power.

every time i am asked to check out a new ride a friend of mine just got, usually from their work, i do quick brainstorming of internal cubic volume to determine what i "could" do to the vehicle if it were mine, And this is no lie, everybody at my work site knows me for brainstorming number figures constantly off the top of my head about anything, one thing being potential installs for any vehicle i come across. And of course, i know i'm addicted when i actually take time out from myself to just go help somebody install an entire system or just talk to them about plans for a system and refuse to leave until they have a goal in the right direction. I hate knowin people that didnt go the right way with their money and ideas..

ok, i got a design for you- It's around 5 cubes NET tuned to ~36.5hz

that's what i mean.. DEEP.... From the Rear of the trunk to the back seats... the depth.. I need to know how deep i can maintain 38" wide x 16" high.

oh WOW, so the trunk arms lower 10" from the top? that's insane.... Ok, well, lol, can't go no wider than 38" then... How deep can i go from the back of the trunk to the front of the car maintaining 38" wide?

so your saying in between the trunk arms is 43" wide? How deep can 43" wide remain 43" wide from the back of the trunk going forward toward the rear seats? You say 36" in your first post but it doesnt look like that's possible.

there is a gap that the former sits in and the sub rides up and down like a... nvm Anyways, in a daily sub, this gap is large to accept the tolerances of abuse and most importantly the range of frequencies that the sub must accept at any given time making the movement not as linear as u think it is. In competition, there is usually only 1 note played at a time. Because of this, the gap is smaller to concentrate more force to the sub itself. With a single note being played, the movement is far more linear. Even if competing, choose daily if u wish to use it for musical playback. I may have thrown some terminology around but i got the idea out there anyways.

I'm interested in designing it for you but i have some trunk measurement questions. How wide is it from wheel well to wheel well right behind the back seat? Once past this area moving back, how deep is it from the point the wheel well area starts to widen to the back of the trunk? What is the width in the back of the trunk ocne the trunk widens as much as possible? What is the height with the trunk closed if the box was built wide enough to sit under your trunk lid arms? I don't want the box to hit these things.

Well, just got the answer and it is confirmed by scottie J himself. Example was- If u have an alt rated for 270A and engine is currently revved to 2,000rpm. If you have a constant load of 185A and VCM is set to 14.9v, your voltage will NOT drop at all as long as u don't have any belt problems, etc... So, like i say before, the thing is geared to keep voltage stabilized until alternator maxes out... This is better than what any voltage regulator can do and more.

there is 2 power wires for a cd player. "USUALLY" the red wire is ignition wire and the yellow wire is 12v constant wire. Sounds like u got the wrong wire(s) connected together.

i dont see why not. If a single D3100 couldnt do it, a Group 8D from power surge sure would!

i am awaiting the answer to your belief as i see u will see it too, hehe, when it gets posted, hopefully by XS and not by another user.

Tommyk- somewhere reading someone stated it maintains the set voltage until the alternator reaches it's maximum current output based on whatever rpm u are currently at of course. So, it supposedly will do more than just remain stable due to alt temps. Caps are known around here as voltage stabilizers, that's why i had asked about the comparison since voltage does fluctuate on a typical system a couple tenths of a volt anyway at least.

i also like to know how it works... However, i was told i will have to wait until the patent is finalized before Powermaster can publicly announce how it does work. i'll give u this link but i dont know if u find the info u want- http://www.caraudioclassifieds.org/forum/showthread.php?t=18816 I can't find the original link that first announced this product, i'm still looking for it.

Three friends check into a motel for the night and the clerk tells them thebill is $30, payable in advance. So, they each pay the clerk $10 and goto their room. A few minutes later, the clerk realizes he has made anerror and overcharged the trio by $5. He asks the bellhop to return $5to the 3 friends who had just checked in. The bellhop sees this as anopportunity to make $2 as he reasons that the three friends would havea tough time dividing $5 evenly among them; so he decides to tell themthat the clerk made a mistake of only $3, giving a dollar back to eachof the friends. He pockets the leftover $2 and goes home for the day! Now, each of the three friends gets a dollar back, thus they each paid$9 for the room which is a total of $27 for the night. We know thebellhop pocketed $2 and adding that to the $27, you get $29, not $30which was originally spent. Where did the other dollar go????

i'm not the bonding guru but this is what i believe- titebond is far more thinner than liquid nails is. That means that titebond should be able to fill pours or bond more precisely than liquid nails could since liquid nails is so thick. Now for running along joints, you want something thick here so i prefer liquid nails. I also notice liquid nails likes to have air pockets in itself so after letting it cure for a while, u may notice some spots that have popped. This is why i apply silicone over the liquid nails.

that's why i predrill the locations for the l bracket before i lay the bonding glue down. I then apply titebond, set piece in place, then screw the l bracket into place. i wouldnt tighten all screws in to the bracket as some will lift the wood back up. After sitting for just a couple minutes, run liquid nails across the joint all the way down so all the glue cures at once.

if the one that lies wants to eat u, by asking will u eat me will make him not eat you or else he would be acting on the truth...

Here is one that is sure hopefully to keep your heads twisted for a while... 2 = 1 how? a = b aa = ab aa - bb = ab - bb (a + b)(a - b) = b(a - b) a + b = b a + a = a 2a = a 2 = 1

will you eat me?