shizzzon

I'd have to draw it out, but make port 3" wide, the port will drive all the way down the depth of the box and will turn and go down another wall by just a couple inches.

The FCBC Competition Meeting will be held on December 12th, 2009 at Ryan's Steakhouse. Location- 1034 Executive Dr, Elizabethtown, KY Meeting will be at 6pm EST. Room is already reserved, pay for your own food. This meeting will go over the guidelines\rules and finalize everything before the FCBC competition dates are set in stone. As of right now, there is no other tougher competition like this... They were right when they said, "We want to see smoke!" PAY EXTREME ATTENTION to your install when competing in such a division as damage will\may occur if care is not taken when competing in FCBC. Known rules- There will be 5 sensor placements! Guidelines are unknown at this time BUT there are different rules for each location. Locations include- Floor Window Seat Outside Port Wars (3" inside) Meter is placed on either driver or passenger side. How the competition will work- Each competitor MUST complete 3 rounds... Round 1 is 30seconds Round 2 is 45seconds Round 3 is 60seconds Ready for the Oh Shit! part? Each competitor has ONLY 60seconds of break time in between each round before the next round begins! Better know what your subs can and cannot handle! The 3 pressure levels a competitor averages will be summed and divided by 3 to determine the winner. Each round consists of a different sensor placement. Outside measurement is not understandable at this time until it has been discussed at the meeting. Entry fee for the first scheduled show will make you a full 1yr FCBC member for FREE. Do not forget that.

when i get home, i'll check the math

sounds like your computer is clipping. Turn the gain down by rolling the wheel mouse back a little and you should be good. Yea, the auto loading feature isn't working yet.

yep, i run a wall right now and when i tear it down next year, i will be lining my entire car with wood and steel bracing... and hoping for a 160.. non-walled. May or may not happen but based upon what i am seeing.. i need to no wall my car with the next design i do.

oh, thats bout 2hrs from me, hope u would be closer. well, how much space do u have in the back?

what city r u in?

I'm goin. i go to everything i dont know why... Nobody else around my area is goin so checkin to see fi anybody in the TN area might be goin...

Gots a couple pic n vid from the show- Guy with a van runnin 24 TruBass 8s- Then the almighty Paul Strouth, hehe. He's got 12x Sundown SA-12s runnin 4 Sundown 3500ds in a bandpass design My run.. i was down a few tenths from last show for good reason, helluva story to tell.. It took my just over 3hrs to drive there.. Guess what i found once i got there... I drove for just over 3hrs with NO ALTERNATOR!!! Ahh! The turn on fuse had popped when i started the car this morning and was runnin purely off my batts... Luckily, XS Powermaster batts and Mechman make some good products! My xs floats at 13.0v and after 3hrs and 20 min of driving, it was down 11.9v This was a D3100 and D5100 = 170aH. Not bad! I spent 3hrs on and off charging the batts back up with my mechman alt rated for 250A. I was able to get the batts from 11.9 to 12.7v by the time i started doin my runs. My burp score was down with only a 150.8. I did, however, compete in driveby this time for the first time. Driveby- meter vehicle 6ft away metering 30sec average on real music. I scored a 126.1 on my first time ever. If you don't know what's loud and what isn't, go check out meca's recrods for driveby for each class and so on. a 137.x i believe is the loudest to date outside the vehicle in MECA. Anyways, after the comp, my batts still at 12.7 so i went ahead and drove all the way home and by the tiem i got home...my batts are at 13.1 now and alt still workin fine and in the high 14s like it should be I won 1st in driveby and 2nd in burp. Next show 1-16-10 i believe.. gots some modeling to do for some new designs.

i have to ask this.. how do you know that you even need another battery in the car? Does she have a 50A alt or somethin? If you do not know, i'd just find somethin that would work IN CASE she needed it, otherwise don't buy it beforehand. Tryin to save both of u some money here. Or better yet, you could get the specs off her stock batt and replace it with a more powerful one only if she is having dimming problems which i doubt she would anyway. This will clear up more space in the back too.

I have been doing lots of searching for detailed information on exactly how this is done and the safety issues wih doing this and have not found anything worth mentioning so let me lay out what i think would work and see what you guys think? To do so i would assume you would need the following- PSU with single 12v rail. PSU with 12v rail output equal or greater than the fuse rating on the amp. Cut off ALL 12v wires going into connectors and splice them all together to form the rated 12v output ready to connect to Power input on amp. Do the PSU trick so u can turn on and off the PSU via kill switch in the back. If all of this is true, then i have a couple questions. 1- Most PSUs have terrible -12v ground amperage ratings.... is this ok? Am i suppose to hookup the negative output from the amp to all -12v wiring on the PSU? I do not understand what the -12v amps are for so i am lost on that spec. 2- What are the safety issues with doing this if it works fine? Of course an inline fuse will be required but besides that? I've heard of someone running for a while and the PSU actually set fire. I can assume maybe excessive output to fast but i don't like to speculate about things that might burn the house down, hehe

i'm sure it wasn't. I tested approx 3lbs worth in a chamber directly behind the port one time in my wall. Backpressure will be at it's greatest here so that's why i only installed it there. I only measured it with a meter on the low end, not the high end. Box tuned in the low 30s, peaks at 50hz, the Acousta-stuff increased pressure right at or around tuning but was a very small increase, possibly due to the low amount of stuffing i had inside. I did also notice a decrease in the higher range 50hz+ so it's not just you. The response sounded more smooth rather than peaky as how i got mine setup.

u misunderstood my post. He was referencing the Hyperdynamics meter that is required to be used with a good dmm or oscilloscope. The word METER i used means dmm or oscope in my post, not referencing db meter. That is how their meter works. I have one and some other people around the internet do to, that's how they advertise it to work. I'm not in the electrical field but snoopdan knows quite a bit about stuff like this and he told me how the meter works as to why it requires a dmm or oscope to get the proper reading off the meter. The millivolt reading is converted using a formula they give you or you can use their software to do it for you to obtain the proper pressure measurement. "has anybody on here tried those meter you can hook up to a DMM and get a read out look it up on the lil chart thing and get a db read out" That is the Hyperdynamics meter made by makeitlouder and that is how you use it.

The educated people deal with facts, not speculation. Hanapi, your entire description is purely based upon speculation information and this is why you confuse yourself on how your electrical system is being ran. So, let me quit doin these box designs and stop workin on my comp car so i can break it down. www.bcae1.com and www.the12volt.com is where u learn the basics. SSA is where you NEED to be (Here) to use the information correctly. This is how it is- You have 2 amps capable of pulling up to 500A but realistically only pulling an average of about 200A. A 250A alternator should handle this fine.. in a sense. 20-60A of power is dedicated to running the vehicle the entire time. Also, you can only get maximum rated power out of the alternator once you reach the proper rpm which is usually 1,800-2,500rpm. Because you had the original pulley put back on, if it's a larger one, the ratio from engine to alternator has gotten smaller so that means the engine rpm will need to be even higher to reach max output of your alternator! So imagine 3,000rpm+ just to run your audio system on stock pulley? the reason you won't see any dimming is because when the alt isn't putting out enough current for the demand, you have a LARGE battery bank in the back that is keeping up with it. The problem lies here- How long do u keep it cranked? If you keep it cranked for long durations at a time, 10min minimum constantly... the alternator is probably trying to run the audio system ANd charge batts at the same time which is just too much current to do that. You need to get a DMM and measure your voltage at the rear battery bank at idle and at 2,000rpm while blasting it and see how low your voltage goes for a duration of a few seconds to a few minutes! This will confirm my theory if your voltage is dropping to 13.0v or lower, you have a problem... You can't test it now because your alt is damaged but likely scenario. Solution- if you blast it for prolonged periods.. these alts, all h.o. alts are nto designed for maximum current output for prolonged periods of time. This is why you should never try and charge a dead battery with one... Why you shouldnt try to pull more current than what it's designed for for long periods of time. Why you shouldnt use a large quantity of batteries and let them discharge just a little on a high powered system with just a single alternator without charging the bank up with a battery charger. Why you need to a voltmeter or safety cutoff switches for low voltage situations(this doesnt mean dimming, this means dipping into battery's reserve capacity). The #1 reason why alts fail or high output alts fail is because they burn up.. workin them too hard. A true high output alternator can't fit in our cars because they are too large. these high output alts that are manufactured are intended for short period high current demands so they can keep cool. A true high output case is about 8 times the size of your alt case. Also, you have 2 different battery technologies mixed together in your vehicle. IT's not wise to leave them like that over time when the vehicle isn't running as they can fight with each other and drain each other. What does this do? Makes them want a charge, a longer charge immediately... thsi could also contribute to the alt being maxed out trying to charge batts even with the stereo off. Too many maybes but lots of possibilities.

are you referring to the Hyperdynamics meter from makeitlouder? They read real close to a termlab. Mine was reading right along with a tlab until i reached 150 then then it started reading higher than a tlab. The accuracy fo the meter compared to another is irrelovant, it just needs to be able to meter the levels of pressure you will be using it for and yes, that meter can just fine. You will need a meter that can read millivolts to get an accurate reading.

it would be impossible for a universal calculation of all vehicles as the contour shapes of objects in the car and materials used to absorb and reject sound and sound vibrations will all effect cabin gain in any vehicle. It needs to be physically tested. Cabin gain will change upon how much air can escape out of the car as well. I got my cabin gain graphs made for my wall sealed and outlaw. It takes about 30 min per pass to get the info from 20hz-100hz. Once u have cabin gain... that's when u know where your car peaks at and start playing with that info to see how easy it is to get loud in certain areas and see where other areas in your car is hard as hell to get loud.

just like we know thorshammer has ran a stetsom 14k2d on a single DC level5... I'm sayin subs can take a LOT MORE power than rated because it's based upon the install and how the amp is actually setup. The less you clip your signal, the more power in a short time period the sub can handle. You also must be able to control movement. Once you master those 2 things down, then a sub can handle an enormous amount of power. For long term use, i don't see the practical use as it would hurt too much to keep it that loud. I wired a 3,000w amp up to an AQ HDC3 and burped it a couple times and the dustcap was still cold.. not even luke warm. I run 1750w per DC Level4(not XLs) in driveby usage FULLY CLIPPED for a 30 sec run and they take approximately 42seconds before they will start heating up. Luckily 30sc is all i need to get my score down. IF it were clip free, it be a lot more power. Snoopdan ran 5,000w to each RE SX sub for burps and 2,500w for longterm daily use. They'd have to get reconed every several months though... intentionally though, not by accidental abuse. Ben Hemp has ran a pair of strapped sundowns at 1 ohm to a Mach5 SPL 12 without problems and one of my AQ HDC3s strapped at 4ohm. my new design will consist of over 10,000w per driver as long as i stick to my plans for next year and i have no worries about failure because it's all in the control and design. Power ratings are based on a combination of things, thermal and mechanical. They work with each other. You can control them if u know what you are doing but if it fails... u don't know what you are doing.

i use an interchangeable ports for competition burps, competition driveby and daily music

lol, no, it won't harm your alternator. If u want all the itty bitty details, contact xspowerbatteries.com or contact scottie J at Powermaster.

While sitting here thinking about how i keep reading about capacitor or battery topic.. this popped in my head. So, i am curious... With the new XS VCM, will this not only replace MLA but also capacitor use period? For those that don't know what an XS VCM is, let me briefly describe it. It is an add-on device for stock or aftermarket alternators that has an attached module that sits in your car. This module is set to any voltage in 0.1v increments up to 19.5v if your setup supports such voltage. When the VCM is used, whatever voltage is set, this voltage will NOT fluctuate...not fluctuate...not...ever(with slight exception below) In testing, it is shown that, for example, when set to 14.9v, the voltage did dip down to 14.8v but that's it. The VCM is not effected by temp, regulator, computer or other conditions that can make your voltage fluctuate. When pulling current out of alternator, the voltage will NOT dip below it's preset value unless the alternator is maxed out based upon rpm value. Once the alternator has reached it's maximum current output, the VCM can no longer keep voltage stable and will drop to battery voltage from there until demand is lowered or ceased to allow the alternator to control the demand 100% again. So.. since this thing keeps voltage stable... Is this the end of automotive cap use? By the way, this module is under $150 so it's many many times cheaper than a lot of capacitors out there.

either contact nathan or scottie at www.xspowerbatteries.com or contact the member phi on here as he has the same type of problem you have but he is getting a 270A alternator for his. He'd know more about it than i would.

where r u located? U will also need to install all sound deadening to be used prior to testing. If it's a wall or any other type of design which will section off part of the car for the box, you will need to test AFTER the box is built AND have an adjustable port so u can build it to the right length.

if both subs are in the same line, then 2 10s by far. I would even opt to build the enclosure slightly larger for the 2 10s for even better efficiency. Use about 60-100sqin of port and you will like it.

he was askin how to measure wattage output out of curiosity, not how to setup an amp although people need to know this even if they don't want to know. As a first tool, YES an oscope is great. I believe everyone should own one but even more a DMM at the same time. I typically only use my ammeter to measure output\input loads for fun or strictly for fused based competition usage.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Cl4v8n5EXl0&feature=rec-HM-r2