shizzzon

This was an interesting design for this guy. Design calls for 2 boxes. One specifically for daily driving music and another for straight competition. The designs are for an SUV. Setup- 4 Sundown SA-8s off of 2 Sundown SAE-1200ds Daily Driver- 3.6cuft tuned to ~31hz Now for the almighty SPL box. A true spl box is one that can be continuously modified until maximum output is found. This doesn't just mean port length tuning but firing direction too! The following box design is an interchangeable baffle. Yep, you read that right, interchangeable baffle with 4 position port firing locations capable PLUS the capability of fine tuning this box from 32.5Hz - 62Hz. Please Note, THIS IS AN SPL BOX. DO NOT ATTEMPT TO PLAY MUSIC WITH THIS BOX OR YOU COULD RIP THE SUBS TO PIECES! Also, when testing with this box, if you come across a part of testing where you found the right port length but the subs are bottoming out, contact me about building a larger corner piece at the back of the port to reduce volume low enough to prevent such action from happening. Here is SPL box- So, how does the interchangeable baffle work? If you look at the floor of this box, you will see 4 cutouts for the 8s. ALL 6 sides of this box are dual layered 3/4" wood. The top floor piece is cut for 4 8s. The bottom floor piece is NOT GLUED but just secured into place for testing and is a solid sheet of wood. The top to this box will be 2 layers of wood BOTH cut out for the mounting of the 4 8s. ONLY GLUE the bottom layer of the top to the box. The top top part of the box is just secured into place, not glued at this time. Test with this firing position with subs up to the left and port firing to the left. Next, turn box around 180 degrees and have port firing to the right with subs up to the right. When u are done with that testing, remove the top top piece and the bottom bottom piece and swap them! Now you can flip the box upside down and be able to test with port firing to the front left or the back right instead of before- back left or front right. this is a multi test design to prevent from wasting money and time on building multi designs. Once all testing is complete, GLUE the remaining top and bottom piece into place. Like always, if you approve, let me know via PM.

It is also VERY hard to gain 3db -6db under theoretical conditions in the real world too... VERY hard. The theory is double cone area while maintaining same power, or doubling power while maintaining same cone area will gain 3db. The theory is double both cone area and power to reach 6db. There are many restrictions which prevent this from always happening in the real world. Typically, doubling one thing will gain you about 1.5-2db and if you are already pushin the limits, 1db if you are lucky. The higher the pressure you try to create, the harder it gets. 150db is everybody's dream... 160db is the xtreme level for a daily driver, VERY HARD to do. 170db+ as far as i know is incapable of being driven due to the mods necessary to accomplish such pressure.

yep, i'm about to order some cable from them. Their cable is also rated to handle more current than any car audio cable of equal size. I do not know if they are rating their cable the same as car audio cable though. Car audio cable is rated based upon a certain percentage drop in voltage over a range of whatever feet... I don't know if this still holds true for welding cable or not... What i do know is welding supply's 1/0 cable is rated at 350A at 50ft! whereas stinger's 3/0 cable is only rated at 350A per length of car on average.

hey Rusty, got your other design for ya. 2 12" Treo's 3.2cuft tuned to 35hz- Email me for the approval. Edit- there will be corners in the port, just didnt put them in there.

did i say $300? I must be stupid.... I meant $250 http://cgi.ebay.com/NEW-ALPINE-MRP-M1000-CAR-MONO-POWER-AMPLIFIER-1-CHANNEL_W0QQitemZ360213249724QQcmdZViewItemQQptZCar_Amplifiers?hash=item53de61febc

Gonna start re-modifying my car again soon... Got me a pretty damn good battery charger recently so i can keep my batts in tip top shape. recently had some complications with my charging system so DC Power is modifying it for me and will be back in better performance by the end of the year. I am also modifying the charging cables for the alternator and getting a 5 connector battery terminal soon too for massive surface area coverage. I will be modifying the radiator area to attach a welded bracket system behind the radiator to allow the capability of running dual 1/0 cable lines rated at 700A at up to 50ft! to the battery post. I will also be modifying the ground area and making it more efficient and dual grounding the alternator as well. Sometime soon, the car will be lined in SPL Tiles + Sludge soon when the product is completely finalized. Us competitors must do crazy things when trying to reach the goal of a 160db+ daily driver... did i say that?

if u need an amp that does power at 2 ohm, then look for an amp that is rated for maximum performance at 2 ohms. the Alpine MRP-M1000 is rated at 1000w@2ohm and can be had for $300. If you want a serious amp, check out Alpine's PDX.1000 amp. It does 1000w at 2-4ohms and is guaranteed to deliver lots more power to a setup than an equivalent amp rated at just 2 ohms but is also just over $400 too.

for aero ports and port calculatio, go to www.psp-inc.com

message me and let me know what vehicle it is for.

I was out in my car today doin some work to it and decided to measure resistance on connections. I measured somethin interesting and don't know what it means so am hoping somebody here might. I removed all wire going to positive battery terminal under the hood except for factory wiring. When testing factory wiring to ground, i get a reading of 1,320 - 1,780 ohms. What does that mean? Apparently, is does mean power is touching ground but in the most least resistance possible. How low of a resistance reading does a connection have to be to start causing battery damage?

so what's the verdict, u know i'm curious.

hehe, u know to get ohms you must have voltage and amperage present. So, if you set your gains with speakers connected, then you will have impedance rise to deal with. You won't know what the rise is unless you clamp one fo the 2 wires and take a voltage reading at the same time. Pointless route to go.. an oscope is the most accurate way of setting gains on an amp.

true but man... long port ftl.

moderate clipping might not be either. Clipping is a lot harder to detect in a subwoofer. That's why many people damage subs or else they'd know to turn it down when somethin weird sounding happens.

case closed... Due to port area being way too small, anything else wouldnt really matter at this time. You need a new box built. Because the box is 2cuft net, the proper port area would drastically reduce the net volume so a new box is in need.

well, my opinion is different than KU40s but i'd also side with the BTL. Why? Because if u wanted a 9500, u might as well get an AQ HDC3 for less than half the price of a 9500. BTL i'm sure has more potential in terms of getting louder than an HDC3 can.

if an 8 vs a pair of 18s can produce the same reading on a pressure meter.... that that goes to show u that install matters greatly. If i can compare a single 8 to a pair of 18s, imagine what it looks like when u compare 2 different subs of the same size...

if it was the reason for frying the amp then he must not have payed attention when adjusting the settings. I can see how one could cause damage to an amp but these things shouldnt be necessary. If you keep the gain control the same from one head unit to another then yes, his would sound "better" because his preouts are stronger, that doesnt mean better though. the gain controller is used to match that of your hu's preout, that's it. Easy, huh? The more you crank the gain up, the lower the voltage listing goes on the dial. so lets say your amp is adjustable from 0.1 to 9v. that means when the gain is turned all the way counter clockwise, that's 9v and all the way over is 0.1mv. You need 2v which "should" be somewhere around 70& clockwise but don't go by that to set the gains... IF the gain is set too high, you'll start clipping.

there's a user doin over a 150 with a single 8 then there's people with 2 18s and several thousand watts of power doin just over a 150 too so It's all in the INSTALL.

hey, what about those 1500ds, dont u have those already?

actually no! If the internals of that amp are screwed up, it doesn't require the amp to be on to read a short... Insert the power and ground wires in backwards and u can see this for yourself!(dont do that, just makin a point) For the amp to not pop it's onboard fuses when the inline fuse is taken out still points to the amp. Why? Because if there was a short somewhere down the line, the inline fuse, even if it were a 500A would eventually pop due to a short. If it didn't, the cable would burn up or battery would get damaged. The amp is immediately trying to pull infinite current due to some sort or internal malfunction. It can't do that when the inline fuse is removed. I'm willing to bet if u remove that amp and put another amp in it's place that it will work fine.

amp wont work if there are no fuses so no, amp wont come on. Well, get your dmm out and this is what u do- Unhook the power and ground cable from the amp. Set dmm to ohms. Measure the resistance of the power cable u just disconnected from the end u just disconnected all the way to the battery(assuming there's a battery in the back) IF you do not get a reading at all, the inline fuse on this cable is popped and you NEED to disconnect the entire power line from the battery before continuing. If you do get a reading which should be 0 ohms, it's a 99% chance the amp needs to be serviced. IF you didnt get a reading as stated before, after removing the entire line, inspect the cable carefully. IF you can't find the problem, remove the inline fuse holder so u can measure resistance in sections if you have to. A more brute force method but you would have no choice if u can't visually find the problem.

that's unnecessary. I believe that if there were something wrong with the amp that it wouldnt pop the fuse until the amp was told to come on... So that means to pop the fuses before the amp is told to come on means it's pulling enough current to pop the fuses... Without coming on, that means a short. Obviously enough, should look to see if the wires are going into the right terminal or like you say, a short in the power line. Either way, measuring current is unnecessary because we already know it's shorting.

make sure you got the power and ground going into the right terminals.

i can sum it up- It doesn't require any particular meter in terms of accuracy. As long as the meter is rated to accurately measure pressure at the pressure level he creates when finding his car's peak will suffice. Why? Because the meter is the constant in the equation and the frequencies are changing so when the meter peaks, that should most definitely be the car's peak. Now, i also agree about using a TL as well. Just like what was said before, if serious about competing, get a TL. Most sanctions use these so why not use the meter that u will be metering on in practice?