shizzzon

At one time i ordered 2 of these amps when they were only a couple months into production and one came in defective from shipping damage unknown to me and fried both amps on the spot when strapped. Covered under warranty and after weeks of diagnosing until the problem was finally found, they have been working ever since. I eventually sold them both and have never had complaints and been in use for over 2yrs now.

what? sound quality regardless of how good or bad it is to the ear shouldnt be measured by how loud it can get. There was a guy i at the last show i was at that competes only in the SQ division and he told me that they use 2-3 different cds that everybody must play and multiple judges score your setup by their own ear. Different judges have different tastes but one thing that he did point out was that the tracks that are played will score you higher the less bass that is put out! I am assuming that these tracks he is referring to must have higher notes in the sub range because it wouldnt make any sense if that isn't true. He said SQ judges pretty much hate audible bass so i am assuming that's based upon the tracks being played. The measure of pressure is irrelovant in what makes someone suggest one's install sounds better than another. Now, i am no SQ guy, i just like it clean and deafening. Maybe that's the word peopel should be using, not sound quality, but CLEAN. People need to start using this term when requesting "SQL" in the future- CnL = Clean n Loud. I might have just started somethin

that's funny how u say u wanna do spl.... Setup right, those BTLs should be able to handle a 4kw amp per sub. Now for spl, for serious spl, i'd be lookin at tryin to put a MINIMUM of 2 of those amps per sub but again, u gotta know how to control mechanical movement and monitor thermal handling. I want to run 7kw to a single Dc level4 but i don't think my plans will allow me too... Those subs are only rated for 1kw but i know they should be able to handle it if i ever did.

you see.. that's what happens when people don't listen to me when i tell them how to build boxes... he tried to take a shortcut and that's how it turned out... There was suppose to be 3 subs in that IB...

the icon requires lesss for sure. 1500w and less for the AQ for good sounding bass, up to 2400w if u want brutal bass

if u can actually build those dimensions out fo cardboard without it hitting anything.. then YES! u have plenty of room!

sounds like it means that as of 11-30-09, it will take approx 30days to build per order request. Due to the time delay, they are willing to give you the cooling option for free as a way of apologizing for the delay.

u need 2 XP alts for that vehicle from DC Power.

i think you need a line driver... Lol. Seriously though- what head unit do you have? If it's an alpine, then you won't have a problem because i'm familiar with those. If it's another brand, look for a sub level control somewhere in the settings. This will control the preout voltage. Set this to 0 and start adjusting gain with head unit at 3\4 of the way up. If the amp is measuring out as clipping to early, turn the sub control down in to the negative range.

i wanna get me a projector. It'd be my first one. I only have small HD monitors, no real big screen lcd HDs so i wanted to try out the projectors. Think the HD65 is the way to go?

yep, that's what i've heard too. From what i hear, people who can show proof of their work via pics should prove to a company that you have what it takes. Experience owns.

it shouldnt matter which one can handle more power because if you look at it that way, you are going down the inefficient path. Use the power you have wisely. On a general note, sealed can control a subwoofer better than ported given the proper optimal enclosure comparisons but ported is more efficient. 6th order bandpass designs for spl competitions are very efficient and are very hard to tune and very hard to determine sub stress and may likely kill a sub in such a setup with lots and lots of power. The topic shouldn't be compared in the open as if everybody should use this box or that box... it's based upon what room you have, the goal and the equipment used.

lol, i havent either. Maybe i was coverin the boundaries just in case there was an oddball out there.

when doin grounds, if you are unsure of whether the ground spot u chose is the best, do this- get some jumper cables and only use the ground side and connect one end to the negative battery post and the other end to where you are grounding at. Whip out the dmm and measure what your voltage is at the battery before and after doing this. If the voltage goes up, you need a better ground, if it stays the same, the ground location is great. When running batts in the back of the vehicle, if you have a measureable voltage drop of more than .1-.2v, run a cable from the rear grounding terminal on one fo the batts to the grounding terminal on the front battery. If the measured voltage on the rear batts increase, you need a better ground or more runs. IF you think the runs are sufficient and can't get a better ground, run another large cable dedicated solely as a grounding cable from the front to the rear batt bank. Jumper cables and a dmm will help find an answer to voltage issues like these quick. I'd also like to add that when measuring voltage in the rear, it's best to have the car revved slightly just in case your alt doesn't "turn on" on your car's actual idle speed. Also, when using jumper cables, do NOT have a crazy monsterous load goin on either, most jumper cables aren't even 1/0 and i wouldnt want anyone melting wire from leaving them connected from a crazy load. You shouldn't even really need a load other than the car being on. that should be plenty to measure voltage issues and grounding locations. This is the method i use and i gotta say, u don't know what's good ground til you test it and some places may shock you as good and bad places to use in terms of resistance...

i dont know, not everything can be taken for granted when it comes to car audio products... See and hear some odd products out there.

ok, lol forget what i said about ohms, ... That should be fine.

you have to see. Those fmod things are rated based on ohms so make sure you get one for the right wire configuration. 2nd, see what the rolloff is on them because i don't know them off hand. If they have a small roll off of 3-6db, might wanna get one just a hair higher if you start to have bottoming out issues.

they have great customer service.if i didnt think they were any good... i woudlnt have 6 3500ds sittin next to me,

if it's autoranging then all u gotta do is connect the positive probe to positive speaker terminal and negative probe to negative speaker terminal and just increase the gain on the amp until the wave clips on the scope. IF it's not autoranging, then you will need to "zoom out" until the graph stops going off the screen. Basically this is what you do- Set head uit to 3\4 of the way up, flatten all boosts, bass settings, EQ everything to 0 or off. Turn bass boost off on amp as well and keep gain turned all the way down. LPF should be all the way up and subsonic all the way down. download a 50hz tone from my sig at the bottom. Start to play this tone. While the scope is connected, gradually increase the gain until wave flattens at top and bottom(make sure the graph isn't larger than the screen because if it is, u gotta zoom out) Once u reach this point, turn it back down just a hair so it stops clipping. Do the same thing to the other amp. Once the other amp is done, go back to the first amp and remeasure it and adjust gain if necessary and same to the 2nd amp again. Now u can set your low pass filter and your subsonic filter before playing music. when playing music, you may be able to turn it up a couple to a few clicks above what u just set the head unit's volume at because the test tones i provide are VERY loud. Music isn't recorded this loud to put it simply. Example- my head unit goes up to 35, i set my settings at 27 and play music on 31. You can go a little past it when playing music but test tones and some bass tracks, keep it at 27 for long term use for this example.

nobody here will recommend using 2 different brands and power rated amps for your subs... Because of this, there is no way of syncing them together. You must do so with an oscope or match the voltage output on both with a DMM.

This is how you do it for any isntall- Your inline fuse on the power line is determined by adding all the fuses in your amps together. If this number does not come in that particular fuse size, get the next fuse size DOWN. So, for instance, you say 180A total, get a 150A. If it were 320A, get a 300A, etc... Also, it is important to know what your cable is rated at also. You don't want to try and run 3 amps that have 150A worth of fusing a piece(450A) off of a single cable that may only be rated for 300A and slap a 450A fuse on that wire... That's a no no, hehe. You add up all the fusing on your amps and use that number as your inline fuse ONLY up to the point of the rated maximum current of the wire. IF you have 450A worth of fusing for amps and it's controlled via 1 cable, inline fuse WILL only be the rated current for that wire which may be 250, 300, 350A etc... This is to protect the wire from melting. That's more important than protecting the amps in this case. For such a scenario like that, you would also have battery(ies) in the back and the single cable run from front to back would mostly be used just for the alternator charging current and 95% of alts will not consistently pass current higher than even what a single 1/0 cable can handle(300A rated cable that is). Although i wouldnt recommend just using single 1/0 cable either for that install due to voltage drop if charging current really was that high most of the time. Well, you should have grasped what i am sayin by now.

you know, if you ever need to know what can fit.. all i need is the dimensions of the cargo area. If you need a design created for you, that's through PMs. I just went through 2 whole pages of speculation of what can\will fit. Just give me the dimensions of the cargo area you are willing to take up for a box so i can narrow your sub choices down now.

take both amps fuse ratings and add them together then get a single fuse as close as possible to that number.

that's me and, hehe, my partner in crime had a little too much to drink last night.

If u have built boxes before then building a wall isn't too hard. Look at Lucky 76, i designed his wall and he has never built a wall before. Plus, if the tiem comes, he can break it out of his aviator and return the vehicle to stock cosmetically if that option is required as well. This is basically what you need- Measure the maximum dimensions u can use for a wall. At that point, the baffle is drawn out and the internal volume is calculated to determine what should be installed. Once this is determined, it is then time to start planning on your goals for the wall. Is it for competition and if so, what sanction? Is it just for music and if so, what tuning? What is the vehicle's maximum recommended weight rating? What kind of power will you be running and what electrical system would you have?